Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

GMC Yukon / Yukon Denali



  • brjohnsonbrjohnson Posts: 10

    I am assuming you have used all the menu options available...there is a setting on mine that says "Auto" y or N, if this is set, the screen will automatically change every 90 days to a new color combo to save on the screen drivers. If you change this to N and then choose from one of the 4 settings, see if this will work. If not, I would check with the dealership on it.
  • vdoefxvdoefx Posts: 6
    Thanks very much for the comment..

    The problem wasn't the settings, it was a broken twilight sensor! Dealer repaired at no cost to us.

  • wcbtkwcbtk Posts: 2
    I have a 04 DXL and have a problem with a blower surge coming from the heating system. The surge is occurring only on the front passenger side. I took it to the dealer 2X and they said that it was acting normal. The problem still exists but only when the Heat is on, no surge when the AC is used. Has anyone been able to determine what is causing this surge to occur??

    In addition, the climate control does not always get hot unless it is turn up to 90 dgerees. When set at anything less then 90, it feels like it is set at 65. Any similar issues?
  • 02tahoe202tahoe2 Posts: 2
    My 02 Tahoe just started doing the same thing. Have you solved the problem?
  • hitenhiten Posts: 12
    Got 04 Denali with approx 50K miles on it. I am thinking about replacing the spark plugs. Has anyone use Bosch Plat +4 before?
  • Changing spark plugs at 50,000 miles seems too soon to me. The new plantium spark plugs are recommended to be changed at 100,000 miles.

    I changed the spark plugs in the Olds Silhouette for the first time at 140,000 miles. They were still going strong with no problems, but I wanted to make sure they did not get cemented to the head. I replaced them with the Bosch Plat +4. I like the plugs so far. I now have 176,000 miles. I like the idea that you don't seem to need to gap the plugs. Also, they shouldn't burn open like most plugs. When I replaced the original plugs, they were burn't open pretty wide, but the computer obvioulsy adjusted for this since they ran great up til the time they were removed.
  • neo6neo6 Posts: 24
    I have a 06 Denali XL with less than 2K miles. About two weeks after I took delivery, it started a high pitch hum that occurs either stationary or moving. The volume of the sound increases with more RPM. It is not from the audio as it happens with either A/C or radio shut off. Took it back to the dealer and of course - "technician cannot duplicate the problem". Any ideas? Amazing how the customer service level at GM goes to zero after you walk off the floor with a $55K vehicle..
  • blky2kdblky2kd Posts: 2
    the hum u hear is called a ground loop it usualy comes from after market stereos, speakers subwoofers amplifers, or dvd player if u got any of those i would check that u have good ground on all appliences and would make sure wires arent shortcircuiting anyware.
  • edcclrtedcclrt Posts: 1
    Is it possible to bypass the window lock so the window will go all the way down on the reardoors of a Yukon?
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    Are you talking about how the rear passenger door windows on the short-length Yukon (i.e., not the XL version) go down only about halfway? If so, then there is no way to get them to go all the way down; look at the design/shape of the rear passenger doors and you'll see why it's not possible. Hint--compare the rear passenger doors of the Yukon vs. those of the Yukon XL or Suburban, and the reason will become obviously clear. :)

    But then you might say, "How come the rear passenger door windows on the Ford Explorer are able to go all the way down?" Answer--compare the rear passenger windows on the Explorer to those on the Yukon...again, the reason will be obvious. ;)
  • njvikenjvike Posts: 56
    They don't go down all the way on the '03 Expedition either, however, windows do, as you stated, go all the way down on my Denali XL.

    Love this Denali :shades:
  • ddegrawddegraw Posts: 3
    I am having the same issue with my 2002. Did anyone ever give you advise on how to correct this? Thanks!
  • awf_axisawf_axis Posts: 136
    I had a 2001 Denali that did this when-ever my wife was there, never when I sat there. Must be my fatness.

    Anyway, it took 3 different visits to the dealer (3 replacements) until it finally was resolved.

  • I have a 2001 Denali XL with 57,442 miles on it. I just had 4 new Goodyear Forterra Triple Tires Installed, Mounts and Balanced.
    On the Interstate traveling more than 65 mph, I feel vibration and the ride gets shaky.
    Could it be shocks/struts???
    Is anyone knowledgeable of an exact occurrence? :confuse:
  • caljetcaljet Posts: 1
    So what ocurred?

    Mine just went out while driving. Pulled over, shut off engine had electricty, but unable to start. Uncertain if GMC will warranty it, as they think it may be a short of sorts, due to a dime was in the cigarette lighter~!
    Dealer stated my truck computer would not register with their diagnosics machine. Last reference on dash was stability systems was not working. Anyone else have issue & how was it resolved?
  • vdoefxvdoefx Posts: 6
    That reminds me...

    2005 Denali with Nav - does *ANYONE* know how to make a working copy of the DVD? I really don't want to spend $200 on a backup disc.

  • ddegrawddegraw Posts: 3
    Dave, wow- 3 replacements? I think I'll just pull the belt out and wedge a quarter in the slot in the seat when she's riding!. Is there actually a replacement part? Looks like the seat has to be torn apart to get it in. Can't be cheap...

  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    If $200 is too much, then there's always Ebay...

    All I can say in regards to your question is...Google is your best friend...since I don't think it would be proper to disclose in this forum as to exactly how one could be made. ;)
  • tharris1tharris1 Posts: 1
  • awf_axisawf_axis Posts: 136

    Sorry for the delay answer. The belt mechanism is a modular piece, that is accessible without any invasive work on the seats. On my repair orders, it was charged at .25 hrs (15 minutes)labor.

  • jrsctsvjrsctsv Posts: 2
    My 2002 Denali XL's transmission cooler failed mixing transmission fluid and coolant in the radiator. Result very quickly is slipping transmission. Car has 74000 miles, all normal family driving, never towed anything or did any off roading. The cost of the repair was over $3000; extended warranty paid $2000. I looked on the internet and quickly found this to be a common problem. Apparently the trans cooler is inside the radiator and therefore you can't detect the failure until you have a problem. One sign is coolant and trans fluid mixed in the overflow tank for the radiator, but by then your transmission will be ruined.
    I called GM to see if they would help cover the cost of my portion of the repair. They ultimately came back and said no since I take the car to an independent repair shop, even though they referred this issue to a GM dealer.
    I have been a loyal GM buyer, now am very disappointed. A part that is designed to extend the life of the transmission fails and causes early problems. Seems like they should own up to this. This is my last GM vehicle. If you are driving this car, watch out for this problem.
  • alexp98alexp98 Posts: 4
    I bought a brand new '05 Yukon Denali XL and haven't had any major problems. Lately, though, I've noticed when I park my vehicle outside for several hours or more that I hear a grinding or a metal on metal sound whenever I step on the brakes. It goes away after driving for a couple of minutes. I've taken it to the dealer and they've told me that it's condensation from the hot brakes and cold air that causes that noise. At first, I accepted that reasoning, but then why has it only started recently. If it were true, then I would have heard it since the beginning. My SUV is normally garaged so I don't hear any grinding whenever I pull out and step on the brakes. It's just whenever it's parked outside on a cold night. I'm afraid it could become worse.
    I've driven 36K miles on it mostly highway so the brake pads are still fairly thick. I think there's 5mm on the most worn out of pads and 8mm on the other axle.
    Anybody else have this problem?
  • awf_axisawf_axis Posts: 136
    Have you checked to see if a coating of rust develops during the night?
  • alexp98alexp98 Posts: 4
    Yes, there isn't any rust. That is the same thing the service rep asked me.
    A good example was about 2 weeks ago. I parked my SUV outside from 2PM until 11PM. I don't think there would have been enough time for rust to form or is that enough time for some sort of film to coat the rotors?
  • I have taken delivery of an 07 Denali with NAV and no camera (I couldn't wait). Does anyone know if the wiring harness is in the liftgate so that I can simply connect the camera when it becomes available??
  • ddegrawddegraw Posts: 3
    Thanks, Dave. Will take it in and have them fix it!
  • hitenhiten Posts: 12
    Does anyone know if 04 Denali is equipped with a fuel filter? I went to a GM dealer this morning and they called me back saying that 04 denali's are not equipped with a fuel filter.

    just curious if anyone came across this?
  • bpotts1bpotts1 Posts: 3
    I am having the same exact problem and the mechanic I took my car to said that he has seen this exact thing (3) times in the past couple weeks but cannot fix it. I replaced by belt and tensioner but this did not work. The sound actually got worse. I am taking the car to a dealer today and we'll see what happens. This should be a recall issue if it is that common. Let me know if you find anything out. (I have an 03 Yukon 5.3L)
  • steins4steins4 Posts: 1
    I had the same trouble with my 03. I had to replace the A/C compressor. The GMC dealer paid for it because I had just purchased the vehicle 3 months ago (it would have cost around $500).

    I hope your trouble is not as severe.
  • ssbmgssbmg Posts: 7
    I also had my AC belt break off. I had to replace the AC compressor and condenser. I found the compressor refurbished online for a couple hundred bucks and with the condenser and a couple other minor parts had the entire AC system replaced for less than 500 total. Make sure that you flush out the AC lines before installing a new compressor. When my original compressor went dead, it sent metal particles throughout my AC lines and if I didn't (luckily) have it flushed prior to running the new system, it would've seized up and had to be replaced again!
Sign In or Register to comment.