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Toyota 4Runner



  • Had my first opportunity to try my new 2005 V8 on ice and snow. When braking hard, did not have the usual pulsation of ABS, but the truck stayed in a relatively straight line. Not really sure if the ABS was working or not. Is the ABS system on this truck different than systems where you feel the pulsation when ABS is activated?
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    from the brakes when the ABS engages on my 2003 4Runner. But the ABS is working.


    I just got new snow tires last week. Went to play in the snow this AM -- I live near Boston. Much more traction than the lame all seasons...
  • kheintz1kheintz1 Posts: 213
    Have they considered something like the Throttle Position Sensor?
  • If it was the TPS why will it rev up when sitting still??
  • dadoftaydadoftay Posts: 136
    Have you tried the oxygen sensor? Remeber, there are more than one on your truck. The o2 sensor reads different under a load, almost like a wet distributor cap. Try that, or make sure you're not making an arc from a loose or broken spark plug wire.
  • I'm the person that posted about the rav info and fixing the windshield noise. It seems to be caused by contact between the windscreen glass and the cowling - the rav owner fixed it by having techs install clear slippery tape over the glass where the cowling contacts it. I've been using WD-40 which has totally eliminated the noise on the left (where it first started), but has only been partially successful on the passenger side. It goes away pretty quickly now, especially when I blow the defroster on it. Renewing the silicon spray seems to help, but hasn't entirely eliminated it.


    I drive on a couple of miles of dirt road, heavily rutted and pot-holed - so it's very noticeable to me until the interior warms up and the materials expand.


    The noise I'm talking about definitely comes from the dash/windshield area. Not the door.


    Let me know if you find a better solution.
  • Wouldnt the o2 sensors show up on diagnostics??

    Appreciate the reply!

    s. johnson
  • Thanks for the reply. With your experience, I feel better about this lack of pulsating sensation. We have had a lot of snow here in Southern Ontario and with the new blizzaks it feels great. I have owned various vehicles for 48 years and this is my first Toyota product. This new V8 with a 5 spd is so smooooth. Great vehicle. Thanks again for sharing your ABS experience.
  • Thank you very much for the reply.


    By the way, I have the vibration/buzz in the brake pedal problem too. I wonder if I should try to get that fixed or just live with it since it doesn't bother me that much.
  • Unless Toyota is willing to experiment by swapping various parts, you're screwed. I also deal with electronics, & various sensors & plug-ins can fail without failing a diagnostic. I'm surprised at this point they haven't tried swapping various sensors, computers, or even cleaning the fuel injectors and replacing the fuel lines. No doubt it's going to be expensive, but that should be their problem, not yours. Try another dealer as some are better than others.
  • Wait til you're stuck and find out you cannot engage 4WD cuz you can't get the vehicle to move to engage it. Oh, what a feeling!


    Why wait till you are stuck to enagage 4WD? Wouldn't it be a better idea to engage 4WD before the trip if there is even a remote possibility of getting stuck? I would think the slight penalty in gas mileage would be well worth it.
  • You can't always control your circumstances.


    After days of rain here in California, if you need to pull off the highway onto the dirt shoulder, you may find yourself up to your hubs in mud. Too late then. This is the slowest engaging 4WD vehicle I've ever owned. The colder the weather, the longer the hookup to 4WD takes. I've had to back up as it takes up to a 1/4 mile to engage. This is ridiculuous.


    Needless to say, I keep it in fulltime 4WD now.
  • One more thing, escalate it yourself to Toyota. Your dealer might just be watching the dust gather on your vehicle. I feel for ya, cuz this could be any of us, and I'd love to know the outcome. It costs your dealer $$$ to work on the vehicle and not fix it. It costs nothing to pay you lip service. I'd escalate as a month at the dealer is ridiculous.
  • To help everyone out, I purchased this vehicle for

    $600 over invoice.


    2005 4Runner Sport 4WD V8 Dealer Invoice is



    Remaing #'s are Dealer Invoice Costs

    JBL CD/FM & 10 speakers -$476.00

    Daytime running lights - $32

    Double Deck Cargo - $100

    Sunroof - $720

    Rear Spoiler - $160

    Valor Exhaust Tip - $42

    Door Sill Enhancements ACSCO - $109

    Preferred Accessory Package - $220


    Destination Charge - $565

    TDA - $609

    Gasoline - $6

    Dealer Hold Back - $324


    TOTAL - $31,983.00


    Hope this help you buy 2005 4Runner. I have a

    copy of the invoice if you want to see it just email



    I also recommend reading

    car/car.htm !!! Especially the FAX war for obtain

    Qutoes... helps!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    I did a variation of the Blast Fax Car Buying technique when I got my van back in late 1998. Dealers are much more used to email nowadays, although a hard copy of a quote still sways a lot of them.


    Congrats on the new 4Runner (and thanks for posting in Toyota 4Runner: Prices Paid & Buying Experience too).


    Steve, Host
  • 2toyotas2toyotas Posts: 104
    If you engage 4WD while stopped after you engage it put the transmission in neutral and then back to either drive or reverse and it usually will engage instantly. Try it.
  • This really kills shift-on-the-fly. Pretty soon I'll be locking hubs again!


    It will engage per your recommendation in warm weather most of the time. But in cold weather, if the vehicle isn't moving it will not engage. This reminds me of my '91 Chevy with a similar issue. Some kind of solenoid had to heat up b4 the 4WD would lock in. Warn came out with a solenoid that worked instantly. Anyway, it still takes longer to engage 4WD than any other vehicle I've owned, so I just keep it in fulltime 4WD.
  • kcom2006 you got a 2005 v8 sport edition with all does option for $31,983.00. what dealership did you go to? Yeah I'll like to see that invoice. The dealership on the northeast prices are nowhere near that price.
  • To anyone who is interested, removing the running boards gives only a slight improvement to handling in crosswind. The vehicle still gets tossed around plenty.
  • kheintz1kheintz1 Posts: 213
    I recently purchased *Anco* winter blades for my '03 4Runner Limited, and they work exceptionally well-- absolutely no ice build-up so far (here in Ohio), unlike Toyota's stock blades, which are miserable in winter. These Anco winter blades also look good, in my opinion. Unfortunately, Anco does not yet offer a winter blade for the rear window wiper.


    Today my dealer completed my vehicle's scheduled 30,000 mile servicing. The total cost was $400.00 after redeeming a '10% off' coupon. Not a bad price for all of the work that was done, and my Toyota Platinum Extended Warranty entitled me to a free loaner vehicle.
  • sam20sam20 Posts: 8

     i sent a message yesterday but it is not shown today?

    my message was that i wanted to find out if any of the readers have experienced using the tornado/cyclonefuesaver.the suppliers claim that the apparatus will increase the fuel economy up to 28%and the power by up to 13%.the testimonials suggest the same.has anyone used this apparatus on a 2003 or newer 4runner in either the v6 or 8
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    This one?


    sam20, "Ask the Forums Hosts" #3135, 31 Jan 2005 12:47 am


    Welcome to Edmunds; it takes a little while to figure out the various ways to navigate around the boards.


    Steve, Host
  • Sam,

        I believe "Consumer Reports" tested this gadget and gave it a negative rating. I'll check to see if I can find it in my back issues and will get back to you if I do. Bob.
  • Sam,

        Could not find it. I saw an article about it in some magazine. However, check out the "Acessories & Aftermarket section. You will find four pages of opinions on these fuel saving gadgets. The Tornado is mentioned quite a few times and has received negative comments. Bob.
  • I will be picking up my new 4Runner Limited V8 within the next week. I have several questions regarding breaking in the V8:

    1. Per the owner's manual What is the breakin interval (number of miles)

    2. What are Toyota recommendations regarding maximum speed, driving patterns etc during the breakin period

    3. Number of miles before the first oil change

  • Lynx,

         Here is the break in recommendations for a 4 Runner V6 which should be simular to your V8.

    BREAK IN PERIOD: Drive gently and avoid high speeds. The vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But following a few simple tips for the first 1000 miles can add to the future economy and long life of your vehicle. Avoid full throttle acceleration when starting and driving. Avoid racing the engine. try to avoid hard stops during the first 200 miles. Do not drive for a long time at any single speed, either fast or slow. Do not tow a trailer during the first 500 miles.

    Toyota recommends at 5000 miles or six months to change the oil. This is subject to interpretation depending on how you drive and where. I personally would not take it off road until after the break-in period.
  • sam20sam20 Posts: 8
    to bob

    thank you for the response .i don't understand where to look for acessories and after market.please let me know

    regards sam
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    There's not much there yet but you may want to join in the Gas Saving Gizmos & Gadgets discussion in Aftermarket & Accessories


    tidester, host
  • kheintz1kheintz1 Posts: 213
    Some additional tips:

    (1) During cold start-ups, allow the engine to idle for a couple of minutes before driving;


    (2) Change the oil for the first time at ~1000-1500 miles, then do the next oil change at 5000 miles, and every 5000 miles thereafter;


    (3) At every 5000 mile servicing, rotate the tires; make sure the propeller shaft, U-joints, slip-yokes are lubricated with lithium grease; add ~24 oz. of *Chevron Techron Concentrate* to a tank of fresh fuel (add the Techron, then fill the tank), in order to clean the fuel system, injectors, etc.


    (4) If you plan to keep your 4Runner for many years, consider using a full synthetic 5W-30 motor oil. I've been very happy with Quaker State Full Synthetic oil for my '03, V8, AWD 4Runner Limited. If you decide to use synthetic oil, it can safely be used from the outset. On the other hand, never let a dealer talk you into any engine oil or transmission fluid ADDITIVES claimed to increase engine life, lower engine friction, etc. Pick a brand of oil, and stick with it, rather than jumping from brand to brand. If you opt for a high quality full synthetic oil, ask your dealer if they carry one. If they don't, make sure the synthetic oil you choose is readily available in your neck of the woods. (For example, Autozone carries Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 here in central Ohio.) Buy the oil by the case, take it to your dealer at each oil change, make sure they know you want them to use it, and also make sure they return the empty bottles to you. Finally, I would suggest using Toyota oil filters.


    (5) If you don't already own a high quality tire pressure guage, buy one and check your (cold) tire pressure frequently.


    (6) If you want to keep your new 4Runner's exterior (and interior) finish looking its best, with excellent finish protection, consider using Zaino products. Zaino's Clay Bars are highly effective, and although "claying" the finish involves extra time and work, the results are well worth it.

    Most new vehicles in the U.S. are transported by freight trains at some point, and embedded rail "brake dust" will become embedded in the finish of vehicles. In addition, automotive and truck brakes (including that from our own vehicles) are another ongoing source of brake dust, which WILL become embedded in the finish.


    Clay bars are the only safe and effective way to easily and reliably remove these embedded particles of iron and rust. My 4Runner is white, and trust me, these iron particles are very common yet almost impossible to remove without a clay bar. Even if your vehicle's color tends to hide these particles, they're probably there, but they can be detected by running a piece of nylon stocking material or Saran Wrap over the (clean) finish of the vehicle--you will feel and hear it snag as it passes over these iron spicules and other embedded junk in the clearcoat. When you clay the vehicle, you will also see (to your utter amazement) specks of orange material accumulating in the clay, and what you're seeing here is brake and rail dust which the clay is easily plucking from the clearcoat. Imagine what these embedded iron particles could do to your finish if you never periodically remove them. Get thee some Zaino products, and prepare to be amazed.


    (7) Husky brand plastic, fitted floor and cargo liners aren't cheap; in fact they're overpriced, but you'll eventually forget about the cost, and they're an excellent way to protect your vehicle's floors and carpet from snow, mud, sand, salt, slush, grease, etc. In addition, they clean-up very easily. Applying ScotchGard to all fabric surfaces is another wise idea if you want to keep your vehicle's interior looking good, especially if you have kids and/or pets.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    During cold start-ups, allow the engine to idle for a couple of minutes before driving


    I just get in and go (albeit gently at first). Some say let it idle for 30 seconds (link), but I don't even bother with that.


    Modern gasoline vehicles are designed to start up and drive (Salt Lake City Weekly)


    Steve, Host
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