Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Jeep Wrangler



  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Much better! Thank you! :)

    OK, do you understand what Jeff was telling you about posting a pic? The pic HAS to be hosted on the Net somewhere. Like Jeff said, is a place that has free accounts for hosting pics, and they allow direct linking.

    You really oughta learn how to do that, but if you are just dying to get one posted, send it to me via email (my email address is public in my profile). I will post it in my photobucket account and make it show up in a post here. Please send me JUST ONE pic. I am on dial up, and it takes forever for an email to open when it contains a pic. Be sure in the subject area of the email to identify yourself, so I won't be afraid to open the email.

    I like your choice of tires. If I didn't encounter so much mud in my wheelin', I would run BFG All Terrains on Thelma Jane. I actually had a set of them before getting my BFG Muds. They were great tires.

    Now, be sure and not run too much pressure in them. Those tire places often way over inflate the tires. No more than 28 psi shoudl be necessary or desirable. Too much air pressure makes the ride too harsh, and it wears out the tread in the middle of the tires.

    That was a REALLY good deal you got for trade in on your old tires. Good job!


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • 99tj99tj Posts: 187
    My '99 is at about 55,000 miles. I bought it used a little over a year ago.
    Other than oil changes I don't believe the 2 people that owned it before me did any other maintenance. What, if anything, do you guys recommend?
    New plugs? Radiator flush? Transmission?

  • Thanks for the help. I will do my research on the past posts. I have limited time during the day so most research will be done at this time.

    Tom, I have family near Gilbert so I will look into the Jeep Jambo.

    Thx again to all.

    ps - no saint :)
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Paul: ecreation+Area/

    Check out those sites. I didn't take time to look at them in detail, but that is the place that I mentioned in the previous post where they have Jeep Jamborees.

    I didn't mean to discourage you from asking questions when I recommended that you read past posts. We here at Edmunds Jeep Wrangler don't mind answering questions that have been asked before. You won't get flamed in here for that.

    It's just that you might not even think to ask a particular question, and it might turn out to be "a biggie." Reading old posts might very well bring that issue to light for you, and it might cause you to ask an important question or two.

    You are going to be spending lots of money on something that is unlike any other vehicle that you have ever bought. There are considerations in buying a Jeep that are unique to Jeeps, and it is important that you are aware of these considerations and make the proper choices for your particular situation. This way, when all is said and done, you are going to be satisfied with that Jeep, having no regrets about not having this, or not having that, or having this or that and wishing you didn't.

    If I remember correctly, you mentioned the possiblity of buying used? Well, if there is ANY way to buy new, remember, you get the 7 yr/ 70,000 mile warranty, which is going to be discontinued after the 05 model year. There is also a rebate now, which was $1000 last I heard (haven't tried to keep up with it). Put these facts together with the high resale value of used Jeeps, and you can see that the argument for buying new is strong.

    Paul, I wish you the very best of luck in getting the "perfect" Jeep for your needs. We're here to help you accomplish that.


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • jptjjptj Posts: 53
    Eugene is a 98 sport soft-top ½ doors with auto and air. I pick him up in late 99 with 6k on the odo. I did add cruise, CB and tented windows. I use Model 1 and change the oil around 5k I also service the Trans and transfer case between 30 and 35 k the only repairs that I have done are , at 78k replace the Radiator and at 141k a A/C leak. I also have a 91 YJ (Sally) with 161k showing that the wife drives. The service records for Sally and it shows that rear axel was replaced at 143k. And at 159k I had a little front end work and a rear axel bearing replace. On the week ends I use Eugene off road on the farm when my 80 CJ is out of service.

    Mtngal If you had been driving your 98 TJ 90% of the time to work like I do, you would have pass me (in mileage) a long time ago.

    Have a great day Walt
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591

    Not sure about 99's, but the 01's had that orange coolant that is supposed to be good for 100K miles or something like that. Well, they can claim whatever they want to, but no way I am gonna leave the same coolant in Thelma Jane for 100K miles. I changed her over to the regular green antifreeze (Prestone) after a couple years and will be changing coolant every two years.

    If you are not sure when your coolant was changed, it might be a good idea to change it. You can at least take a look at it.

    Do you know if your Jeep was off roaded before you bought it? It might not hurt to change the fluids in your differentials, t-case, and tranny.

    Be sure to use the proper fluids, if you do these things. Your owners manual could be calling for the wrong type of oil for the manual tranny! DC was calling for a particular class of oil for a few years, but the sulfur in that class of oil was eating the brass synchronizers.

    DC never admitted that they were wrong, but they DID change their recommended class of oil. It was GL-5 that was eating up synchronizers, even though this is what the owners manual called for. DC eventually backed off and called for GL-4 oil, but they never acknowledged the problem with the GL-5. There may be certain brands of GL-5 oils that are OK, but to be safe, I would use GL-4. Whatever you use, be sure it doesn't have an appetite for yellow metals (GL-4 doesn't).


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Wow, Walt, you and Jeeps have a long history together, huh?

    Sounds like both the TJ and the YJ have been extremely reliable vehicles.

    Thanks for the details.


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    I did a search on " GL- " and found that we had a hot discussion in here on the subject of GL-5 oil in October of 2003. Take a look, if you are interested. Just do what I did... type in GL- in the search window.


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    If I were in the market for my first Wrangler I'd probably have to weigh the high resale value against buying new also. The Wrangler is one tough vehicle and so buying used is probably safer than buying some other vehicles used.

    If you look at the '98 model year, a few of them had an intermittent dash gauge problem. The engine would be running, and all of a sudden the dash gauges would go blank and the airbag light would go on. You wouldn't have anything - no odometer, no gas gauge, no speedometer. Very disconcerting, though it was an easy fix and didn't require any parts (a friend of mine helped me to fix my Sport, and it couldn't have been easier with the instructions on the internet). Because the fix is so easy I wouldn't rule out a vehicle that has this problem - just something to be aware of.

    And yes, we don't mind answering questions that have been asked before. As time goes on we all gain new experiences.
  • The current rebates are as follows for the new wranglers,

    $1000.00 for going with Chrysler finance
    $750.00 Cash rebate
    $500.00 Military discount
    $500.00 Firefighter/EMT/Police discount

    p.s. thanks for getting to my sunrider top question
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591

    It was Mtngal that answered your sunrider top question in post #16484, not me.

    Thanks for the info on incentives.


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    If nothing other than oil changes have been done you're long overdue for some major service items.

    So.......................change all fluids and lubricants, all filters, plugs, cap, rotor and wires, serpentine belt, grease all zerk fittings on the front suspension and steering, check and clean the brakes, replace wiper blades, rotate and balance wheels and tires, lubricate hinges and locks.

    Always flush the cooling system when you change the coolant. What transmission do you have?
  • embeedueceembeeduece Posts: 260
    Tom, you're on dial-up?! For all the time you invest in this group, that must be a royal pain. Like driving a 2 cylinder Jeep. Didn't Edmunds give you a well-deserved MVP award recently for all the good work you do here? Now knowing you do it despite a dial-up connection... Jeez, you should get a medal of valor!

  • I have a 97 wrangler and it does the dead gauge trick from time to time but then they come back. How do you fix that?
    To Kevin at WMU. ( I used to live in K-Zoo) I bought my jeep a little over a year ago with 62,000 miles on it. It is a 4cyl 5 speed and I love it. I have only had problems with O2 sensors, radiator, transmission leak, alternator, and the slave cylinder. I dont know if you are handy with jeeps but I was able to fix all these problems relatively cheep by getting replacement parts for the salvage yards rather than the dealer. Also there is an Ebay store that deals only in TJ parts that has some good deals on used parts. I think it is called TJ recyclers or Jeep recyclers or something like that.

    I love my Jeep :D
  • jeff62301jeff62301 Posts: 310
    Tom, Tom, Tom,,

    You could post so many more messages in the same amount of time if you only had a DSL or Cable Connection :)

    my email address is in my profile too,, i'll gladly post pictures for anyone that isnt' sure how. I have a DSL connection, size isn't much of an issue. like Tom said, just be sure to identify what you are sending me, so I don't mistakenly call that new unlimited a Rubi,, those Rubi owners are kind of proud of their distinction.

    Tire Pressure

    Tom,, once again your comments are very timely. I hadn't checked the pressure in my tires since the new ones were installed at SAMs. I just assumed that the lift kit made my jeep ride like the grain truck on my uncle's farm. Dropped them from 40 to 29 psi,, she's riding much better now and drives better, not sure if that is in my imagination, but it seems that the steering is better too, seems to hold a line better on the hwy.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    It's not your imagination, Jeff. Properly inflated tires ride better, hold the road better, and last longer than over-inflated tires. Underinflation "ain't good" either.

    I could tell a huge difference in ride and handling between the 35 psi that I started with on my BFG All Terrains many moons ago and the 28 psi I ended up at. I started experimenting with different pressures, and I found that I could even tell the difference between 28 psi and 31 psi.

    I kept the same 28 psi pressure when I went to the BFG Muds, and it works equally as well.

    The weight of the vehicle determines what pressure a particular type of tire should be inflated to. The tire manufacturer doesn't know what type of vehicle the tire will end up on, so he just prints the MAXIMUM inflation pressure on the sidewall.

    Some clown at the tire store sees that maximum pressure and assumes that he should inflate the tire to that pressure without regard to the weight of the vehicle he is installing the tire on.

    The tire manufacturer prints the maximum load on the sidewall in addition to the maximum pressure. The max pressure should only be used for the max load. If I remember correctly, the BFG Muds I am running now give a max pressure of 50 psi and a max load of 2250 lbs. So, if my Jeep weighed 9000 lbs (4 x 2250 = 9000), then I should inflate the tires to 50 psi. Of course, Jeeps only weight about 3500 lbs, not 9000 lbs. (I might be off on the 2250 lbs as the max load, since I am going from memory, but the principle of max pressure only for max load holds true regardless.)

    The footprint of the tire is the best indicator of proper inflation. Apply a coat of chalk all the way across the tread of one tire, then drive a few feet to make that chalked section of tread contact the pavement. Look at the "footprint" the tire left on the pavement. If the chalk on the pavement is all the way across, like it was on the tire, you have a good footprint and have found your ideal pressure. If the chalk is found only in the center of the tread, then the tire is overinflated, since only the center portion of tread is contacting the road. If only the edges of the tread are leaving chalk on the pavement, then the tire is underinflated and making contact only on the outer edges of the tread.


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • keatskeats Posts: 412

    I read your post last night while sitting in a very boaring grad school class, so I checked as soon as I went out to my Jeep. I was in a dark parking garage, and it worked fine. Checked it several times on my drive home, and no problem what so ever. I do have the factory dark tint windows on both tops and have never noticed any problem. Sounds like you should get that fixed before your warranty is up.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Tom, you're on dial-up?! For all the time you invest in this group, that must be a royal pain. Like driving a 2 cylinder Jeep. Didn't Edmunds give you a well-deserved MVP award recently for all the good work you do here? Now knowing you do it despite a dial-up connection... Jeez, you should get a medal of valor!


    Aw shucks, no need for a medal..... just send MONEY! :)
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    just send MONEY!

    Ahem! No soliciting, please! ;)

    My cable was out this morning so I had to use dial up - it was quite painful! Believe it or not, there are still many areas in the country with no access to broadband. You could get an iPAQ and piggyback onto someone's WiFi - unfortunately doesn't provide access to the boards but it's great to have pricing and other info available at a dealership!

    tidester, host
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    What kind of pressure would you recommend for a 30" BFG AT? I am pretty sure mine are overinflated, but not sure what to set it to.

    Would you think 28 for them too?

  • Thanks, Tom...always good to hear from you. I will figure out the Photobucket situation and send some photos. I'll listen to your advice on the tire pressure, but I do like a very stiff ride. The guy at the shop is a CO off-road junkie and runs 33 in the same tire. Too much and cause wear in the middle?? :D
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Well, the width of the rims is a factor in determining the ideal pressure, and you are running 8" rims like I am (your Canyons are 8"), so I would say the same pressure should work.

    Your Jeep being a four banger and having a soft top would be lighter than Thelma Jane, so you could even go a little lower on pressure maybe.

    Do that footprint test, if you want to really zero in on the sweet spot.


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • Some how and some way I just got a bulletin from DC via the internet indicating that if I buy before May 2 I can take another $500 off the $1000 and $750. Since I already bought the Jeep last Saturday, I went back to the dealership and they are going to process the e-mail account number and send me a check for the $500. All I know I did to deserve this was go on to the site or ask for a price from the dealership via, there it was last night. Worth looking into...$500 is $500...just paid for my new tires!! Good luck...... :D
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591

    Yes, overinflated tires bulge too much in cross section, and this puts only the center portion of the tread in contact with the road. This is not a good thing. It not only wears out the tire quicker, but it puts less "rubber on the road," which means less grip. This can cause you to spin out when you might otherwise stay in control in an emergency swerve, especially when traction is marginal anyway, like on wet roads.

    There really is only one acceptable range for a given tire on a given vehicle, and the air pressure should not be adjusted for ride quality. I was just saying earlier that overinflated tires make for a harsher ride, but that is the LEAST of the problems an overinflated tire can cause. Get a different type of tire with a stiffer or a softer side wall, if you want a stiffer or a softer ride, or get different shocks, but you shouldn't adjust tire pressure for ride quality. The tire pressure should be adjusted for the optimum contact of the tread with the road, i.e. EVEN contact all the way across the width of the tread.

    Hurry up and post a pic of the Unlimited!!!


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Some how and some way I just got a bulletin from DC via the internet indicating that if I buy before May 2 I can take another $500 off the $1000 and $750. Since I already bought the Jeep last Saturday, I went back to the dealership and they are going to process the e-mail account number and send me a check for the $500. All I know I did to deserve this was go on to the site or ask for a price from the dealership via, there it was last night. Worth looking into...$500 is $500...just paid for my new tires!! Good luck......

    Wow! That is super, Keith! I'm happy for ya, Dude!


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • 99tj99tj Posts: 187
    Thanks Tom and Mac!

    Tom, I'll check the discussion on the GL-4/5.
    I would probably leave that to the Pros though.

    Mac, I have a 5 speed manual.
    I did change the serpentine belt, but I think it loosened up.
    It's been chirping on cold starts.
    I figured it was about time for plugs/cap/wires.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    If it's a manual make sure to use GL3 and unlike an auto, there's no filter.

    Serpentine belts need to be pretty tight, you should just be able to turn it 90º with your finger and thumb, much tighter than a regular fan belt.
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    I looked back and found the post that twylie posted (back in 2003) to find the link to the site that had the directions. Unfortunately, the link no longer works. I had thought that it was only some 98s that were affected (there was a TSB on it, if that helps you). Basically, you take apart the front of the dash (little more than removing a couple of screws) and remove the instrument cluster (all one piece). There are all kinds of contacts on the back that we just tweeked a bit so that they made proper contact with their receptacles in the dash (you could see which ones weren't making proper contact). Then put it all back together again. I've had no problems since.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I thought you'd take that one mtngal. I don't know if you did it or not, but it's a good idea to squirt a little dielectric grease in the receptacles before plugging the pins back in.

    I think you could also have mentioned how long you put it off for, thinking it would be difficult, then how easy it turned out to be when you finally fixed it!

  • Thanks I will give that a try. I too thought it would be something difficult.

    Do any of you guys know anything about towing a jeep on the highway. I am going to camp jeep this year and my jeep will only go about 60mph on the highway. Probably slower with all my junk in it. So I was thinking of towing it with my truck. Will that hurt the drive line on my Jeep?
Sign In or Register to comment.