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Jeep Wrangler



  • jeff62301jeff62301 Posts: 310
    I've got 33's on my unlimited, our local dealership said they couldn't correct my speedometer for me, they said it wasn't just a matter of changing out a gear or reprogramming the computer.

    Our jeep dealership doesn't seem to like jeeps ( i should say wranglers) they tried to talk me out of buying a wrangler, well all they talked me out of was buying it from them.

    What exactly do I need to ask them ( or the dealer where I bought it ) to do to recalibrate my speedometer / odometer.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Have you had any issues with it since you've had it? Any problems with the TB mud, dirt, or water?

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I guess you need to find a better Jeep dealership. If your Unlimited is a Rubicon the speedo needs to be recalibrated by using a DRB service tool. If it's not a Rubicon, then the speedo gear in the transfer case can be changed as described a few posts back.

    When changing the speedo gear there are various (sometimes conflicting) charts available to indicate the new gear size. However, the rolling radius of different make/type tires of the same nominal size often varies. I like to use a GPS to determine the percentage of speedo inaccuracy, which then allows you to pick a speedo gear with a tooth count that's changed by that percentage.
  • jeff62301jeff62301 Posts: 310
    thanks mac,

    nope, i've got a 2004 ( pre-rubicon unlimiteds).

    I've got a friend with a GPS, that I've been thinking of having him check this out for me for quite some time, just not on top of the "to do" list.

    I'll plan on doing the speedo gear swap myself.

    thanks again,

  • keatskeats Posts: 412
    I switched at the first schedule change (3K). No problems.
  • lsujeeplsujeep Posts: 11
    Well, sorry to take so long in replying. Looks like my jeep will be totaled. The jeep did it's job because everyone is okay. The air bags didn't go off because there was not a frontal collision. The main impact was on the right rear end. The tire was pushed in on the right side and the back gate was bent all the way to the back seat (which was bent also). The floor behind the seat is mashed in up to the back seat. You cannot tell the difference between the bumper and the frame (they are both bent). The guy at the body shop said that the jeep would not start because the wiring harness is disconnected. They have to get a wrecker just to move it so he can make a detailed estimate. His quote "I don't think it'll make it". Sorry I don't have any pictures due to not having a digital camera. When I get my pictures developed, I'll get it onto a disk so I can post them. The next decision will be whether to get another jeep or get a truck. I dread this decision.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Given that you all survived the accident with no injuries should tell you to get another jeep. If a Suburban can whack ya that good and nobody was injured...

    This time get an Unlimited Rubicon! You may want to see if you can salvage anything off the old jeep, like doors, top, stuff you've added, etc... even if you don't use em, you can sell em on eBay.

  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    Wow - that's some damage, did they estimate how fast the Suburban was going when he plowed into you? It sounds like he was going pretty fast. It does sound like the Wrangler will be totaled. And thanks for sharing your experience - it does sound like the Wrangler is safer than many give it credit for. Good luck with your decision - do you really need that extra cargo space in a truck?
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    Well, I have a '98 Wrangler and it's my second Jeep in a row, since I had a '94 bare-bones model before. I was looking at getting a hard top for my '94 and just sort of realized I might as well spring for a new Jeep, esp. since the trade-in would pay almost 1/2 of the cost of the new one. Also I currently live in a state w/o sales tax so I figured I'd eventually buy a new car here.

    Realize if you want ABS you have to get the 6-cylinder, it is not an option on the SE. It is worth it I think in the rain; I live in the Pacific NW, so trust that I've had numerous opportunities to learn. Ditto on trac-loc, though it is not the best limited slip available and you will eventually have to replace the clutch packs inside it ~70K I've heard. I'm only at 28K myself right now.

    You should go for the 6 cylinder (MUCH better than my old 4) though beware that Chrysler has raised the price of it since 1998 compared to the SE. When I bought mine the price difference was only around $1200 when you subtracted all the other stuff that was standard on the Sport (rear seat, stereo etc). It's quite a bit more than that now.

    I hear that the new manual trannys are even worse than the old ones, a concept which I have a hard time grasping. The crappy 3-speed auto tranny is still there. I think what DC needs to do more than anything else for the Wrangler is to find a decent transmission for it.
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Posts: 168
    I doubt they'll let you take many of the parts. If you had the dual-tops, etc., that's all calculated in the value insurance will give you. My Dad totalled his XJ, and the only items they would allow out were personal. All the other parts were included in the "totalled" value of the vehicle. The insurance company pays you, then "sells" the vehicle to a salvage company. They are usually not supposed to rebuild them, but we have a dealer here that even specializes in buying them, putting them back together, then selling them at a discount with a salvaged title. Either way, the insurance company (hopefully the suburban-owners') foots the difference between what they owe you and the salvaged value they get for selling the Jeep. So, insurance takes the loss in the end.

    For me, I would consider an Unlimited again or a Tacoma Double-Cab. Or maybe the new Toyota FJ, which may not be out soon enough if you need a vehicle immediately.
  • jeff62301jeff62301 Posts: 310
    I've always heard that you have an opportunity to buy the vehicle back for the salvage price from the insurance company.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The insurance company can offer it to you (except in FL and a couple of other states, where it's illegal), but they don't have to.
  • jeff62301jeff62301 Posts: 310
    how are approach, breakover, and departure angles calculated?

    I know how much the lift improved my ability to climb over things without high centering, I'm just curious how the "numbers'" compare to stock.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Just measure them. Park on a flat hard surface and use a yardstick. Place it between the bumper, and the ground at the center of the tire contact point. Then measure the angle the stick makes with the ground. For breakover, place between the ground/tire contact and the lowest part of the crossmember.
  • lsujeeplsujeep Posts: 11
    The guy at the bodyshop said that it was right at the threshold of a total and there is no way of knowing what other damage is there until you get into it. The other guy's insurance adjuster will look at it tommorow. I said something about another vehicle (besides a jeep), and my wife said that she had no problem with me getting another jeep. The jeep did what it was supposed to do. It's totaled but we're not. Next question. I don't think there is any way this will be resolved by monday (August 1st deadline for employee discount). Plus, where I live (Jackson, MS) I don't think they have a jeep just like what I want. The timing is just terrible. If I agree to a jeep although it's not delivered on Monday, is there any way I can get the discount? Also, I had gotten the extended warranty when I bought the jeep (I HAD intended on keeping it until it dropped). Am I entitled on getting reimbursed for that? I think I am entitled to sales tax after the agreed price from insurance.
  • Personally I wouldnt worry about the employee discount. I had a deal on the table prior to the employee discount that was 1500 better than what they will do now due to rebates and trade-in money.

    With 05s being this late in a model year I have to believe you will be able to score a jeep for that employee price from here on out.

    Personally, I am hoping for a return to the aggressive rebates so I can haggle my price down again and get the rebate money.
  • redrocker15redrocker15 Posts: 102
    My son had significant hail damage to his low mileage, very reliable '99 Cherokee Classic. Enough that the insurace company did total it. We were given the opportunity to buy it for the salvage value, which we did. It's still pebbled with the hail dings, but it was too great a vehicle for him (college student) to give up. The ugly condition doesn't seem to bother him; he prefered to stash the cash difference in his bank account and buy a few assorted guitar/amp goodies.

    Doesn't sounds like a good option for isujeep, but it is something to keep in mind for lesser degrees of damage.
  • myboybluemyboyblue Posts: 56
    Personally I wouldnt worry about the employee discount. I had a deal on the table prior to the employee discount that was 1500 better than what they will do now due to rebates and trade-in money.

    Because you are not dealing w/ a trade in I would disregard this comment.

    I don't think there is any way this will be resolved by monday (August 1st deadline for employee discount).

    Now you have a couple of different ways to go:

    Option 1: Ask you salesman (woman) if the finance manager has any green slips laying around. If they do ask them if you can have it and explain you situation.

    Option 2: I would go talk to a dealer let them know your situation (ASAP) and see if they can date the paper work prior to the employee discount dead-line. They will usually do this if you are willing\able to buy one or two days after the sale. The benifit of this is you are now able to see if there are any additional rebates for the following month you can take advantage of.

    Hope this help and good luck w/ the insurance company.
  • jeff62301jeff62301 Posts: 310
    Now, I'm not complaining, but it was stinking hot last week in 100 - 103 degree temps and the top off.

    Does anyone have suggestions on brands / models of bikini & safari tops?

    I'm leaning toward buying a "sunlighter" from bestop. I like the idea of letting some light in, after all thats why the top is off.

    Is there a difference in the different brands of channel? other than $20 in cost?


    going to do a little trail maintanence tomorrow in preparation for the 4x4 blast on Aug 11-13.

    come on over if you have the 11-13 open.
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    Rock Gear ( ) also makes some good bikinis if you like the footman loops style, which I find easier than all the straps the Bestop bikinis use, especially if you have a soundbar.

    I have a Rock Gear fullback top (a soft top / safari combo) on my TJ and it's of good quality.
  • myboybluemyboyblue Posts: 56
    I am wanting to get some lights up by the windshild. I have seen the relocation brackets but how do you hide the wiring. Anyone have any pics or know where I can see how they are installed?

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    You have to drill hole in the windshield header or the cowling. That's probably the main reason I haven't put any there (that and CFO approval ;)). That windshield frame is part of your safety if you don't have a weld or bolt-in cage for the front.

    Maybe check with the vendor on installation. I know Warn makes some pretty solid ones. Their manual may show how to install it.

    Remember, POST PICS when you do it! :)

  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Posts: 168
    Hey all,
    Just got my speaker adapters from Off-Road Toy Store. They allow you to upgrade to 5 1/4 in the dash vs. the original 4 x 6. The question is, which 5 1/4? Has anyone had good experience? I'm looking at Pioneer and Sony models, but I want to make sure I get a real increase in quality. Infinity Kappa seems to be talked about alot, but they seem very expensive, and I am going to use this Jeep as a Jeep, not a mobile DJ booth ;)

    Any suggestions on what to buy?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I've heard a lot of positive things about the Kappas. You may want to consider something that has a non-paper cone (for obvious water-related reasons).

    I too have 5.25's in my dash. I'm running MBQuarts in my fronts and I've installed baffles behind them to direct the sound forward instead of into the dash. I have Kicker 6x9's in the soundbar (aftermarket).

    If you are running the factory head unit, you may end up wanting to change your head unit. Factory headunits don't always have the right amperage to properly drive aftermarket speakers. I put in Alpine head units and run 2 amps for my setup and the power output matches the speakers real well.

    So just keep in mind, changing the speakers may help you somewhat, but if you get distortion at volume, that means your HU is having a hard time pushing the power to the speakers and an aftermarket stereo and/or amplifier will help greatly.

  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    I put Polks in my dash and soundbar in 1998 when I bought my Jeep and they are still going strong.
  • myboybluemyboyblue Posts: 56
    Infinity all the way.

    I have (2) 5 1/4, (2) 6x9, and (2) 10" subs 750 watt amp, all Infinity. Then to top it off I have the new JVC 3 1/2" dvd/cd/mp3 player w/ jacks for the xbox. It is loud enough to here on my 1 1/2 hr (one way) interstate commute every day, but doesn't vibrate my neighbors house.

    Infinity = quality sound.
  • True, my example included a trade-in which accounts for the 1500 dollar difference. The point is still valid, however, and he should be able to negotiate for near or equal the employee discount from here on out and with rebates he may actually do better. I dont think employee discount promotions are any reason to rush into it before he is ready unless you are the type of person that wants a completely haggle-free experience.

    Employee pricing is more of a marketing ploy and a great option for people who want to skip negotiating than it is the once in a lifetime opportunity.
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    Well UPS just dropped off the new exhaust manifold. Who want to come over and help install it? :D
  • myboybluemyboyblue Posts: 56
    Employee pricing IS a once in a life time opportunity.
    (not really cuz could go on as long as there are 05's on the lot, but lets get back to my point.)

    Why dont you perform an experiment for us?

    Next week when the employee discount is over go to the nearest dealership get the best deal you can with rebates and talking down all you can off the MSRP (this will be with no trade) then when your done tell him you get the green slip discount and see what the real final price is. (The fortune teller says, $2000 less)

    Please let us all know.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Employee pricing is more of a marketing ploy and a great option for people who want to skip negotiating than it is the once in a lifetime opportunity.

    I agree. It doesn't matter if it's called a rebate, employee pricing, or a discount voucher, it's just a marketing tool to increase sales volume. Incidentally, the dealers in my area aren't handing out green (or any other color) slips so that purchasers can pretend to be employees. The deal is just a line on the invoice that equates to a discount equal to which a notional employee might get.

    Bottom line......................never buy the deal, buy the car. I'll guess that if 'employee pricing' goes away, then a method of discounting the price an equal amount will appear. If it doesn't it's still better to get the vehicle in the exact specification you want for a few dollars more, than to get the 'deal of a lifetime' and have to live with the wrong color or equipment for the length of your ownership.
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