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Jeep Wrangler



  • keatskeats Posts: 412
    KB2, They're mahogany, actually. I need to get out and with the Pledge and a microfiber towel and polish them!
  • Sorry. I gave you the wrong email address. Its Go into "jeeps for sale". Check out #'s 15, 16 and 19 to see what black rims look like. Click on each pic to get more pics of each Jeep. Also, while your at Collins Jeep, check out #44. Its an interesting '58 Willys. Mac, it might look good sitting next to the Red Dragon. Parts might be a issue but it would certainly give you something to do. Have Fun , John
  • I knew it!!! I suspected teak but mahogany is no surprise. Your on the cutting edge Keats. Now what you really need is a massive hood ordament. I would recommend the Flying Lady from a 1934 Packard Convertable Coupe. Its a chrome woman with wings, she has her arms extended holding a wheel. A spoked wheel I think. It might be difficult to obtain but it would compliment the mahogany wheels. I'm going with the soft top for the winter. Just curious per something different. Go Easy, KB2
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    If you want to see various configuration, has lots of choices, such as lifts, bumpers, wheels, colors, etc.

  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    If you rotate the spare, you will always have one that has less wear than the others. Perhaps if you rotate them often enough the difference is insignificant, but it will be there. I don't rotate my spare.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    ........I don't rotate my spare.

    That's ok, the rotation police don't get out much! :shades:

    The reason for including the spare is to even out wear on all the tires. This is especially important on a Jeep as there are differentials on both axles, and the difference in diameter between a 40k road tire and an unworn spare can be significant. The extra tire travels through all road positions after four rotations, in my case after 12k. Additionally, no tire ever has more than a 3k wear difference to any other.
  • Mac:

    I don't understand how having a differential on each axle makes the tire diameter thing worse. I thought the diff's made up for slight differences in diameter and rolling distance in turns. I can see the problem if you had a solid axle shaft. What am I missing here? :confuse:

  • keatskeats Posts: 412
    I understand how running big tires and a much smaller spare could cause problems, but I can't imagine the tread depth difference causing any problems...seems like if that was a factor, Jeep would recommend the 5 tire rotation in the owner's manual.
  • wpowellwpowell Posts: 125
    I have been contemplating this for a while after seeing the idea elsewhere. The suggestion was to mount a short handle shovel across the top of the rods that run from the firewall to the grill using a bungee. I kept getting visions of the bungee disentegrating from the underhood heat, the shovel sliding down onto the positive battery terminal, my Jeep bursting into flames and me jumping out and running down the side of the road screaming like a girl. But a shovel is really handy in the sandy areas around North Florida. I just mounted one very securely (no bungees, no nightmares) in that location and can post details and a photo if anyone is interested. Happy trails!

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    You're correct about the diff function, but the diff isn't designed operate with a 100% duty cycle. The parts that do the speed differentiation, the spider gears, are small and relatively weak. The problem is compounded if you have a limited slip diff, when the clutch packs will wear quickly, and as you can imagine, it becomes very serious with a locked diff!

    Most manufacturers of vehicles with a small diameter 'donut' spare usually limit both speed and distance when it's used, not because of the tire itself, but because of the potential transmission problems.

    Finally, these problems won't manifest themselves overnight in a Wrangler (unless you lock a diff in a Rubicon), with the exception of an ABS equipped vehicle which will become unhappy immediately.
  • O.K., now we are on the same page. This is what happens when you get engineers on the forum.

    My spare is smaller than the tires I have on the ground. I did not see how this would hurt anything if I had to use it. I would never try for any distance or speed, just far enough to get it fixed or replaced. Old Red Ryder is my around town daily driver, I don't think it has ever been over 50 miles from home (why do I keep thinking I want one of those talking GPS's). :D


  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    ...seems like if that was a factor, Jeep would recommend the 5 tire rotation in the owner's manual.

    There's lots of things you can do to hurt your Jeep that DC doesn't mention in the Owners Manual. For instance, the fuel pump, which is mounted inside the tank, is cooled by the surrounding fuel. If you consistantly run the tank to virtually empty before refueling you'll dramatically shorten the life of the pump.

    I know someone who always does this (I guess he likes the thrill of never knowing if he'll run out before getting to the next gas station), and he's had three pumps in four years. My '99 pump is original, possibly because I find other ways to get my thrills. :blush:
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Mac, it might look good sitting next to the Red Dragon. Parts might be a issue but it would certainly give you something to do.

    Thanks, but I really don't need something else to do! :shades:
  • Paul: I KNEW I had seen someone here that lives in Alabama. Couldn't remember who until your post. I'm in Tuscaloosa; there's not many places to go off road here (that I know of)...unless veering off the pavement to dodge the U of A drivers counts!

    Okay...I have to bite (pardon the pun)...what's a DogLeg? (woof woof).

  • Very, very nice. Another Wrangler with a bug guard. Yea! That's my first viewing of a radiator guard, however. Looks great. Nice work on all you've done so far.

  • Paul: that URL is showing an expired domain name. Have you viewed it recently?
  • I luv checking out the Collins Brothers store in Wiley....just around the corner for me. Lots of old classics to sit it...sometimes its the devil to get my 3 year old out of the jeeps....good selection of parts and friendly people....
  • I was thinking of putting a lift on my Unlimited Rubicon and just wanted to get some recommendations. Im just wanting a couple of inches would like 3.5-4 but the kits really skyrocket in price plus i would have to have someone do it for me. Im leanind toward the Rubicon Express 2 in BB for $230 as it comes with DT shocks which i like....Anyone have a better idea or a brand that they would recommend. Thanks, Jeff
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591

    Hook up with Paul sometime and come on up to Turkey Bay. Paul is in the Huntsville area. I guess you guys could hook up at some exit on I65, maybe?

    Dogleg is one of our favorite obstacles at Turkey Bay. It starts out at the lower end running down the middle of a very narrow hollow that parallels the main trail. This is the section that has a tree growing in your path. To get around the tree, you have to put your right side tires high up on the bank and get WAY off camber. After that, Dogleg makes a hard left (thus the name, Dogleg) and runs steeply uphill in a gully with high walls. Making that hard left can be a thrill. Often the front end of a Jeep will come WAY UP off the ground as that turn is made.

    The pic below shows Thelma Jane just after getting past that tree that is in the way. Can you see the small tree just behind the drivers side of Thelma Jane? You get your top into it as you go by, if you don't climb the bank high enough.


    The picture below was taken in the upper section of Dogleg. It's not usually quite this much of a thrill.


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591

    I think the Rubicon Express Budget Boost makes a lot of sense for a lot of people. Thelma Jane only has 2" of lift, and I get around pretty decently. Her lift is a spring and shock lift, a Procomp 2" lift.

    I see no problem staying with the factory springs and using spacers, as you do with the Budget Boost, as long as you get the longer shocks, which come in the kit.

    How can you go wrong for $230? You can always go bigger later, if you want to, and the spacers could be used as part of your next lift to add a little more to it.

    By staying at two inches of lift, you almost certainly will not have to make driveline angle correction, and you should not have to do more than have the front end aligned. You will not have changed the castor enough to need adjustable control arms, and the odds are against having "death wobble" with such a small lift.

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Don't forget Bamatazz; he hasn't checked in for months though. Guess he's swamped making all that BBQ.

    That's a good pic of the Jeep sitting on its tail Tom - you can just barely see the cable from the front bumper to that tree when you blow it up a lot (just like The Gods Must Be Crazy). ;)

    Steve, Host
  • Radial tires only want to be rotated from front to back and vice versa. The reason is that radial tires get used to rotating in one direction and may get really squirrely if run opposite. The right way to rotate all 5 would be to mark the rotation of every tire and dismount and flip the appropriate ones to keep spinning in the right direction. Of course with white letter tires this may look goofy from time to time. When I was in the tire business back in the seventies we always left spares in the trunk because it was just too much hassle and expense to switch everything around. Soon after that the pissy little donut spares came out in passenger cars.
    Of course if you are running bias-ply mud bogger military tires...never mind.
    Alan in the desert
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Tom described DogLeg pretty well. The left turn is somewhat greater than 90 degrees, so sometimes a 3 pt turn is required. :) Combine that with the rutted terrain at the turn and the noses frequently come up.

    Image hosted by

    I have not gone to jeepgallery in a while, so it may not be there any more.

    I'd be happy to convoy up to TB with ya sometime. Probably not during Xmas break for my son though. Just not enough free time on the weekends - MAYBE new year's weekend.

    But I'd love to do the convoy sometime!

    As for installing a lift, my 2.5" OME (3" actually) has been very good. I did have driveline vibes with it tho (NP231 tcase and D35 rear) so I had to do the tcase drop until I did my JKS body and motor lift.

    Image hosted by

    With that said though, a 2" lift has NEVER stopped Tom. :) The only thing you'd want to consider with these 'smaller' lifts is probably more underside armor.

    To help compensate for the smaller lift, I'm doing a tummy tuck to raise the t-case out of the way a bit more so it will only drop an inch from the frame instead of the 3-4" it does now. This will help with rocks and breakover angles.

    All of my lift work was done totally alone (both the suspension and the body/motor lift) and I am NOT the most mechanically inclined. I firmly believe in doing as much as possible myself so I can learn and understand my rig that much better.

  • If I was just around the corner, I would probably be there all the time. How is there reputation? I always see something I like and if I ever get another Jeep I may try Collins.I check their site out all the time. Hopefully, I will have my '03 for many years to come. Thanks, John
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Radial tires only want to be rotated from front to back and vice versa................When I was in the tire business back in the seventies............

    While that may have been true in the seventies, it's no longer the case. As detailed in the Owners Manual, the correct rotation pattern is: rears directly to the front, fronts diagonally back to the rear.

    Tire construction has come a long way in the last 30+ years and there is no longer a problem with the belts taking a 'set' within the carcass.
  • keatskeats Posts: 412
    Jefferson1964, You bought a Rubicon, right? I say don't skimp on the lift. I can understand someone on a tight budget, maybe with an older rig doing that, and I think that's fine, but your Rubi should have better. Spend another 4 and a half bills and get an Old Man Emu, which should get you an extra half inch or better of lift.
  • cbeascbeas Posts: 14
    I'm a lurker here and don't post very often, but I thought I'd share my Christmas parade get up with everyone. We had a great time in our local Christmas parade. Although the kids may have wounded a couple of people along the parade route with the candy they were throwing.

    Randy & Paul...I'm in Alabama too. I live in Helena just south of Birmingham. I'm only about 50 miles from you in T-town Randy. I grew up there and have alot of friends there.

    I haven't done any real offroading yet with my jeep but maybe we can do that sometime.

    Merry Christmas everyone!


    Image hosted by
  • wpowellwpowell Posts: 125
    First of all, let me say that I a relatively new to the Jeep thing and have no personal experience with lifts; so consider the source. With that disclaimer out of the way, I am also shopping lifts for an LJ Rubicon. I think I have settled on the OME lift that keats suggested and will likely buy it from here:

    OME Lift

    (hope that worked, never posted a URL)

    These guys at seem very knowledgable and have offered to work with me to match spring rates to my Jeep, i.e. factor in the weight of my rig based on hardtop/softtop, winch, bumpers, etc.

    I would welcome feedback as well as I am several months away from pulling the trigger on a lift. I plan to go to 33x12.00's or 12.50's. Specifically, does anyone have an opinion on 8" vs. 10" rims with this tire size? I run a lot of sandy terrain and need lots of flotation, but I'm concerned about stuffing 10" rims under there with the OME and a 1" body lift. Any bearing longevity issues as long as I get the backspacing right? Thanks, as always!!

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I head down the B-ham on my way to Destin or if I wanna go get Jim and Nicks BBQ. :)

    Maybe for one of the Greyrock trips we could meet, but I'd love to have you guys go to TB sometime. Family is ALWAYS welcome and encouraged. We have several in our group that bring their wife and kids. My wife wheeled with me for Tom's Ross Allen memorial run in October!

    Nice rig and Christmas setup. Still stock? I like that rack on the back! :) Did you take the pic with a self timer or did somebody do it for ya? :)

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Mark, first of all, DPG is a GREAT GREAT place to buy from. Dirk knows his stuff and is probably the biggest OME dealer in the US. Excellent choice on vendor and dealer.

    I too am going to 33's. I have the OME lift. I am on a regular TJ, but have the HD shocks up front and the Unlimited HD shocks in the back. I have a winch, aftermarket bumpers, skids, etc to work that weight even though I have a 4cyl and a softtop (lightest stock combination). It runs great.

    With 33's though, I hope you are ordering the Body lift. OME is perfect for 32x11.5's if you have no body lift, but 33's will probably need that lift. If you got his deluxe kit, you'll be getting that lift stuff.

    The 8" rims are perfect for the 33x12.5's, especially if you offroad it. The narrower rim holds the tire's bead much better than the wider rim - go figure.

    If you are running the stock rims with 5.5" of backspacing, you will need to do one of two things:
    - replace the wheels with wheels with less backspacing (like around 4 to 4.25"). These will stick out further and keep the tires from rubbing your spring perches or your control arms when turning.
    - get hub-centric wheel spacers (like Spidertrax). This was my route and I'm running the Canyons. I am, however, on 30" tires still - waiting to regear soon. :)

    Here's mine with the lift and BL/MML installed.

    Image hosted by

    If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

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