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Jeep Wrangler



  • gman1259gman1259 Posts: 209
    I wire my CB under the hoof near the battery. Ask Tom for the photos of how he installed his. He supplied them for me and it work great. It powers right up. :)
  • See? I rest my case....3.07? 3.73? Mac24? Mac25? Well, this one is simply explained by a misstroke of the keyboard.

    Sorry, Mac"24"! :blush:
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    OK, here's the way I hooked mine up. I am no expert on electrical stuff, though.

    I was told that a CB needs to be hooked directly to a power source on its own separate wire in order to keep the electrical interference down. Also, I was told that an in-line fuse was a must and that it should be as close to the power source as possible.

    So, this is what I did, and it seems to work fine.

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?


  • You can generally run a pair of wires straight to the battery through the firewall - making sure to fuse both of them as close to the battery as possible. A CB does not draw as much power as the other radios we have in our project Jeep, but the same principles apply.

    Above all, make sure that everything is properly grounded including where you mount the radio and the ground on your antenna mount.

    You most likely won't need to go as elaborate as we needed to, but the principles described are the same...

    Radio Power Installation

    Project Jeep Overview
  • Tom--

    Thanks for the info, as always. How do you recommend penetrating the firewall to get the power wire to the battery / power distribution box? On my unit, the options are pretty tightly sealed. Did you create a new hole specifically for the CB? Dirk.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    No, no new hole. I just used an existing hole in the firewall that had a rubber grommet to seal the opening. I might have had to cut the grommet a little, but I don't remember having to do that. If I remember right, that hole was near the center of the firewall but a little toward the drivers side.

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    Happy New Years to everyone on this rainy New Year's morning! Hope all of you have survived the festivities and are having a safe holiday.
  • moharamohara Posts: 16
    hey guys,

    i have reviewed some of the back posts on the 4WD system, but still would like an opinion. this is my first winter with my Wrangler and i am trying to get acquainted with the system. i had a Cherokee years ago so am not a complete novice to 4WD. i understand not to use the 4WD on high traction roads, so i try not to leave it on when it is not needed, but this can mean a lot of off and on, so my question is in the shifting protocol.

    the owners manual says the 4H can be engaged at speeds up to 55mph! that makes me nervous. seems like a bad idea to lock axles together going 55. in my Cherokee, i'm pretty sure the 4WD was only to be engaged at low speeds (correct me if i'm wrong.) but what if, say, i'm coming off a highway that is fine for 2WD onto a ramp that has not been plowed? what are some guidelines for healthy shifting in and out of 4H?

    also, i notice that sometimes once i disengage the 4WD, it doesnt seem to release immediately. it stays on for a bit and then there is this bang like i hit a water buffalo as it unlocks. i read an archive post about tension in the system that seems to relate to this. how do i avoid this, and how bad is it?

    i'm just trying to get a feel for the system and trying to avoid damaging anything. thanks.

  • I also have the black AR wheels. I love the wheels but the chrome center caps rusted in about 3 months. I mean really rusted. I just ordered stainless center caps from a tire company near my house. Hopefully I will have them on this week. Let me know how yours hold up per the possible rust situation. Go Easy, John
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591

    I just leave my Jeep in 2WD in the conditions you describe, intermittent slick spots on a mostly dry road. Just slow down, which you should do anyway, whether in 2WD or 4WD.

    I can't imagine a situation where being in 4WD would make it safer to go faster than one would drive in 2WD. (I know you didn't say anything about driving faster, Michael. I just threw this in for no extra charge. :) )

    That's my two cents worth.

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Assuming you had a part time system on the Cherokee it would have been the same as on your Wrangler. Engaging and maintaining 4WD at speeds up to 55mph on a loose or low traction surface doesn't impose any undue strain on the drivetrain components.

    However, this mode of operation is intended for use off-road, or for long periods of low traction on-road, i.e. driving around your snow bound neighborhood, or for miles of unploughed highway. It's not designed to be engaged and disengaged as you hit patches of snow here and there. In the off ramp scenario you posed, if the ramp and the surrounding area are deep in snow the by all means engage 4WD and slow down. If it's just the ramp that's slick, stay in 2WD and slow down.

    Remember, 4WD will only assist with propulsion traction and engine braking, it won't help with regular braking at all (which is why you see so many new SUVs in the ditch at the beginning of snow season!). Tires and, as Tom mentioned, vehicle speed play the biggest role in maintaining vehicle control.

    Finally, the bang you hear when 4WD disengages on a hard surface is the release of driveline tension as a wheel eventually slips. It's not good practice as it can break driveline components and/or cause loss of control. The best way to disengage 4WD is to stop first, then drive gently forward to feel if you're in 2WD. If not, then reverse while zig-zagging gently. Doing this effectively 'unwinds' the stress in the system until the transfer case can disengage the front propshaft.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    With winter setting in for real in lots of the country (I know; it has been around for a while already in the northern states and at higher elevations), new Jeepers need to be warned about the handling characteristics of their Jeeps.

    The very things that make our Jeeps so fun to drive and so capable off road are the things that make them harder to control on slick roads.

    Jeeps have a high center of gravity, a narrow track, and a short wheel base. Each of these things independently would make for less stable handling, but put all three of these factors together and add slick roads to the mix, and you have to be VERY careful.


    OK, I'll get off my soapbox now. :)

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Thanks, Tom. Excellent advice!

    tidester, host
  • The stainless centre caps only cost about ten bucks more (per cap, so fifty bucks), so I figured if I was spending as much as I already was, the extra cash (hopefully) would be worth the investment.

    I'll let you know how they hold up.

  • Tom,

    It was great to finally meet you and Hank! I also enjoyed meeting your winch :P
  • Paul,

    Wish you could have was a blast! I think I am just going to get the Rubicon Express 2 inch BB to clear 31x10.5 tires (not sure which ones yet). Probably won't be until this summer or fall though, but I am still having fun driving it stock right now :)
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591

    It's good to start off wheelin' with a stock Jeep. You will develop your driving skills better that way, since you will be forced to pick the right line and use the right throttle, brake, and steering inputs to get through obstacles, whereas a more capable Jeep would allow the driver more room for error.

    Also, you get a chance to see first hand what the various mods are doing for your fellow Jeepers, and you can get opinions from these folks as to which mods would be best.

    Only as your skills increase and the Jeep becomes the limiting factor should you enhance its capabilities.

    Sure enjoyed having you with us, Rob. Come back when you can. Next time, we have to get that sway bar disconnected. You won't believe how much difference that makes!

    I like your idea of the BB and 31 x 10.50 tires. That's a fairly cheap way to improve your Jeep's capabilties while still staying very near stock. Probably some good off road tires would make more difference than the lift itself, but if you are getting tires, you might as well get the 31 x 10.50's and that little bit of lift to give them some room when you are flexing your suspension. (A stock Jeep with no lift at all can run 31 x 10.50 tires, but if you disconnect the front sway bar, you are going to rub the flares with your tires at full flex, if the steering wheel is turned.)

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • Thanks. I ended up using the exising firewall hole on the driver's side, far left near the sidewall, from which the main electrical bundle is supplied; it's a large grommet that had sufficient room around its edge for 14 guage CB power and ground wires. I ran them to the positive and negative battery posts respectively, and the resulting performance is very clean -- no interference whatsoever. Of course, it's an unswitched supply, so I get to turn off the radio whenever I leave the vehicle, etc.

    Thanks very much to all who helped and supplied great information to this board!
  • moharamohara Posts: 16
    thnaks guys. dont worry, i am not one to rely on a magical 4WD and think i can go as fast as i want. i have driven the roads in the northern states my whole life with 2WD. i would just like to make the best (and proper) use of the capabilities of the Wrangler without abusing the privilege.

    last night was a good example. here in upstate NY we had some wet icy snow falling hard during the night. roads didnt have any snow cover, it was too wet. just a thin layer of slush. these are the kinds of nights that most cars go off the road. but i kept it in 2WD and took it nice and easy.

    around here, it is often the case that the main roads are fairly clear while the backroads are not plowed. in those times, i'd like to use the 4WD on the snowy hills, but it is not needed once on the maindrag. i guess it will just take some time and judgement as to when to engage and disengage it to cause least stress to the system.

    happy new year and safe winter driving to all.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    WIsh I could have made it, but I had commitments in Memphis that I had to take care of.

    My next wheeling trip probably won't be until the weekend after Valentine's. Hopefully, I'll have my belly up and some more armor installed. Not sure about the 33's and the regear, but the tummy tuck will hopefully be done.

  • Yeah, I just want to get more aggressive tires...I'll wait on serious mods after I get more experience. I definitely need to try running without the sway bar next time.
  • Skid plates would be a good mod too, especially if it's your daily driver.

  • It took this event for me to post my first message. It happened in a parking lot. My poor 10 month-old Unlimited got hit by a passing car with a driver that was not paying attention. I should have bought that lift kit and a real rear bumper...then this would not have happened. At least that's what I'm telling my wife. It just might work since she loves the Jeep too! Show this photo to your spouse as supporting evidence that you really need that extra "protective" gear. :cry:

    <img src=
  • tjindctjindc Posts: 2
    Hello all,

    Quick question for the pros. I'm wondering if it's a quick fix or if I need to take my 01 TJ to the dealership. All of the features on my steering console stopped working -- horn, cruise control, and the airbag light on the dash is lit. Could this be a fuse (where's the box)? Complications from having an alarm installed? Any pointers (including telling me to just take it in) are appreciated. Thanks!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    While it's possible that the alarm installation may have something to do with it, it's more likely to be the clockspring. While replacing the clockspring isn't all that difficult, if you don't know where the fuseboxes are then taking it in will probably be the best option.

    For more information on the clockspring and what it does, type 'clockspring' into the 'Search This Discussion' box.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Wranglers are included in this forced recall for converter and emission inspection. Many vehicles will get extended warranties, and those found with faulty components or systems will have them repaired or replaced.

    Here's the link in Edmunds Headlines.
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    Too bad they aren't going to refund people who had to replace their exhaust manifolds. My '98 hasn't had a problem passing the California smog certification so I wonder if it will be be on the recall list.

    Come to think of it, I bought an unwind. I wonder if I'll get notified even if it is part of the reacall. Will there be any easy way to find out?
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591

    Sorry that your first post had to be about damage, but glad you have broken the ice and posted.

    Welcome to Edmunds Jeep Wrangler, but something tells me you might have been around a while in the lurking mode.

    Hope you get that damage repaired to your satisfaction.

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Yeah, what Tom said. :)

    Seriously, you can get replacement pontoons from eBay for only a few bucks if you wanna repair the cosmetic damage.

    Hope you get that lift and armor you want! :)

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I'm wondering, since my catalytic converter failed and I had it replaced, if they'll reimburse me or what. I printed that article and will follow up with my local Jeep dealer to see what's up.

    That is the ONLY reason I'd take it to a dealer - for warranty or recall work. Since my warranty is LONG since gone... only recalls will force me to a dealer.

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