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Jeep Wrangler



  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    Similar to the one that came with my top except this one runs horizontal, which looks like a better setup. Mine reduces the water pooling but I still get two small pools on either side.
  • zeistzeist Posts: 8
    I currently own a 2001 Jeep Sahara. My tires are stock and are ready to be replaced. Having been helped many times already on this forum, i didn't think twice to post my current question.
    What I'm looking for is a good all-around tire that will do well in Buffalo, NY snow and also the old logging roads in the Alleghany National Forest during the wet springs.
    I also want to have a tire thats a little bigger than my current size, maybe even rounder.
    I have no clue about purchasing good tires and the last thing i want to do is waste my money. Thanks again for your help.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    BFG AT's (All Terrains) are great on road tires, but may have some issues in rain. In the snow, I've had no issue with them.

    The Mud Terrains (BFG again) would be good on the logging roads, depending on how muddy they are when you run em.

    I currently have TrXuS MT's and they have worn well so far on the road, though they do have SOME noise (nothing major). They grip like crazy offroad too.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    An often asked question, to which the most common reply is the 31"x12.5"x15 BF Goodrich All Terrain KO (BFG AT KO), though it's not the only good choice.

    However, I think you may have a problem finding a tire that's rounder than your current ones! :surprise:
  • zeistzeist Posts: 8
    Would I be able to use the stock rims on these tires?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    If you have the Canyon wheels on your Sahara you will.
  • keatskeats Posts: 412
    Say, have my fellow Jeepers noticed that the Wrangler has made 3 of Edmunds 06 Top 10 lists?
    The lists: Lowest TCO (Total Cost of Ownership), Highest Residual Resale Value and of course the Best Offroad Vehicle list.

    I wasn't surprised by Residual value, I already knew the resale value was great, but the TCO was a little surprising, but I suppose that goes hand-in-hand with the residual value...
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Does TCO include fuel consumption? If so, that makes it even more praiseworthy.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Yes, TCO includes fuel costs. Read all About True Cost to Own here.

    tidester, host
  • jeep99tjjeep99tj Posts: 1
    my 99 Jeep Wrangler Sport is running very rich, and it cuts out for a second around 2,200 RPM in all gears. I have changed the spark plugs, O2 sensors, I have checked the headers and gaskets for any cracks or leaks and found nothing. I have also taken it to a Jeep dealer and two independent shops, with the same response...O2 sensors are bad, so i replaced them and in about a month the problem pops back up again. Any ideas are welcome, thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's probably reasonably to focus on the O² sensors, as after being diagnosed independently, they fixed the problem previously.

    As they don't usually fail after such a short time it might pay to check the connections, both for high resistance and open circuit. You should also check to see if the computer is retaining any codes.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I'm willing to bet it doesn't include the total cost of MODS :).

    I've doubled the cost of my TJ simply by putting mods on it. ;) hehe

  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    Or you can just get 30" BFG A/Ts which are plenty big for what you'd want. I've never had a problem with mine and they fit on the stock 7" wheels.
  • brettzbrettz Posts: 11
    I just got a 4 inch suspension lift on my '06 Unlimited and was shopping around for bigger tires. Could I fit 34" tires or should I stick with 33" and what is the max width I could go up to on my stock wheels without back spacers. Also, any thoughts on the best tires. I would appreciate any info. thanks
  • texasjeeptexasjeep Posts: 270
    On my '00 I had to cut the support bracket. If I was replacing speakers I would go up to 5.25 in the front and 6.5 or 6x9s on the soundbar. I am not sure what all is involved for 6x9s. For the 6.5s I just had to drill a new screw hole.
    I haven't tried the polyfill yet. I hope to do that soon.
    I also heard moving the soundbar over the front seats helps a lot with the sound and being topless. I am looking to do that also.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    33" is a more standard size and will work find with a 4" lift. I have 4.5" total lift and 33's look perfect and I have room to flex.

    If you are on stock 8" wheels, you could run 33x10.5" tires w/o having to worry about backspacing. That said, you MIGHT have a little bit of run at full wheel turn (lock). There is an easy fix for it though.

    I have the 12.5" tires on stock wheels, but I DO have the Spidertrax spacers.

    BFG is a GREAT all around tire (either in AT or MT setup). Depends on your intented uses. if it is going to be mainly street driving with just trails and such, the AT should meet your needs VERY well. If you want to crawl and hit rocks/mud, then the MT may be a better option.

    I've looked at the Firestone and Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo's and the Cooper MT's. I currently run the TrXuS Mud Terrains.

  • jeff62301jeff62301 Posts: 310
    i've got 33's on mine as well, BFG AT 10.5 wide.

    they are a good tire, very little noise, and fit well inside the fender flares.

    increasing the tire size is going to cut into your acceleration, i'm happy with mine, but don't think I'd go any bigger without regearing, the jeep would like that mod, but the checkbook wouldn't.

    i've got a set of 33x12.5 swampers on cragar black steel rims that I use offroad. I love the way the black rims look on there. if you go with a larger tire, you might want to consider different wheels rather than spacers.

  • jsco88jsco88 Posts: 2
    I am a new jeep owner, '05 Wrangler X, to be exact. The vehicle has the stock wheels. I am wanting to upgrade and need some help. I have an exceptional deal avaialable on some 33" wheels. I was told that I need a 3" lift, is this true? Secondly do I need a whole lift kit, the super-expensive kit, or can I just get a body lift (found on some websites for like $150? I appreciate anyone's help in this matter.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Congrats on the new Jeep! :)

    To fit 33's properly and have flex when offroading, you will want at LEAST a 3" lift, but 4" is better (and looks better IMO). Now there are several ways to do this, and I'll rate them in the order I would do them.

    1. 3" suspension lift - this can be pricey depending on brand, but it is a great way to do it (I have an Old Man Emu lift from Australia that gave me 3.25" lift). Along with that, a 1" Body Lift (BL) helps get the Jeep up high enough, but doesn't really raise your COG much.

    2. 2" Budget boost - which is essentially your stock springs with 2" spacers that fit above them. Combined with some longer travel shocks, this is a GREAT way to increase your height on a budget and still get decent performance. I'd combine this with a 1" BL as well.

    I did not do Option 2 as my stock springs were already sagging and I KNEW I'd be putting more armor, winch, etc on it. The OME heavy duty springs are on my rig.

    DO NOT DO A 3" Body Lift. It looks, IMO, really goofy, and those longer bolts could potentially be a safety issue. Most agree that 1-1.5" is the biggest BL you should really do.

    Now, depending on your tire width (10.5, 11.5, or 12.5) you will have an issue with your stock wheels and backspacing. Stock wheels from Jeep are generally 5.5" (Canyons, Ecco, etc with Rubicon wheels being slightly different) so if you want to fit 33x12.5, you will need to reduce that backspacing by either replacing your wheels with ones having about 4" or so of BS, or adding spacers like SpiderTrax to your setup.

    I have Canyons and use the Spidertrax spacers for a 5.5 - 1.25" = 4.25" backspacing. Even then, I'll rub my wheels at full turn if I'm going fast enough. I think 4" of BS is a better way to go. BTW, the lower the Backspacing number, the further out the tires/wheels will appear to be.

    Here is my Jeep with the 3.25" lift + 1.25" body lift on the 33's.

    Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

    Feel free to ask any other questions you may have.

  • koolbreeze2koolbreeze2 Posts: 252
    Sorry it has taken me so long to respond. I could not find the old paperwork on the speakers. You may have to check with a business that installs speakers to get correct size. I think it cost about $200.00 for the speakers and installation. Good Luck, John
  • jsco88jsco88 Posts: 2
    I appreciate the advice. Just looking online I have found a 2" coil space lift w/shocks by Rubicon Express for about $235. Is this what you were referring to in option #2? Or would I just need the 2" coil spring spacer for like $90, this of course does not have the shocks just 2" coil spring spacers. Then buy the 1" body lift from jcwhitney for about $110.
    I noticed that jcwhitney seems to have all of this stuff, but again I am new to this world. I am not wanting to do a lot of rock crawling, mostly make it look better and be able to do a little 4wheelin' from time to time. Thanks again for any help.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Yes, the RE budget boost (REBB) is the one you'd want. With the 2" coil spacers, you will want longer travel shocks.

    There are other vendors around that can routinely beat JCW and Quadratec pricing, so you may want to shop around a bit.

    A 2" budget boost with a body lift and appropriately size tires will be a great rig to the kind of wheeling you want to do.

  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Posts: 168
    I found what you're referring to on RE's site (the 2"). Paul will know for sure but I would recommend calling RE about some details. Since you're going to go with 3" or so of total height, you'll want to look into the other things you'll probably need (such as brake line extensions, which won't matter as much on the street, but ripping brake lines off on the trail is a bummer - and possibly a T-case lowering kit if you have vibrations from driveline angles). I would almost suggest going up to the 7002 kit, which includes some of these items, and would eliminate the need for your body lift (if you take off the 100 or so for that, you're coming closer to even in pricing, and it even comes with swaybar disconnects). I do have a little experience with this even though my TJ is still stock, as I lifted a unibody XJ a full 4.5", and it was my daily driver for a few years. It actually handled better than stock, and with the T-case kit and a proper alignment, it never had driveline issues at all.

    Here's the contents of the kit a step up:

    RE7002 3.5" Standard Kit TJ/LJ -
    BUMP STOP 1.5" REAR TJ 1
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Ideally, a lift needs to consider the trackbars to recenter the axles, but for a 2" lift, the shift to either side is not that big of a deal. The bump stops will definitely help keep the tires from stuffing into the fender wells.

    Also with a 2" lift, the odds of driveline vibrations are fairly low. If the OP goes with a body lift (and hopefully a motor lift as well), the t-case drop wouldn't be needed (yes, this happened with me and I cured em with a motor lift).

    If you are going to get into this kind of setup, DPG Offroad ( sells OME kits like mine that include the trackbars, bump stops, sway bar disconnects, shocks, springs, body lift, motor lift etc). And you'll get an excellent ride with this setup (using OME and JKS parts).

  • 1finejeep1finejeep Posts: 29
    I have a little case of bump steer going on. I drive a 2004 TJ with a 4" ProComp lift. I have done the t-case drop, adjusted the control arms, replaced the pitman arm, and replaced the steering stabilizer a couple of time, and replaced the ball joints. The Jeep only has about 24,000 miles on it. It runs straight down the road but when I hit a bump in the road or a dip the wheel moves, and the whole Jeep kinda sways a little. Every time I replace the steering stabilizer it quits but that is starting to cost to much money. Does anybody know of a better stabilizer than the ProComp, or know of a good double stabilizer?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    A dropped pitman arm is borderline for a 4" lift, though it's certainly needed above that. Try replacing your standard arm and see if that works any better in your particular case. There's no hard and fast rules regarding Wrangler lifts, and what works for one may not work for another.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    You may also want to ensure that your steering components are all torqued properly and there is no play, especially your tie rod ends.

  • Hi Keats, et. al,

    I did purchase the seat risers from Buchannan Precision Machinery and am TOTALLY pleased with them after installing them this weekend. I bought the 1 1/2 inch riser after speaking with them on different height adjustments. More to the point, the installation was VERY EASY (excluding the fact that the #50 Torx nut on each seat was tighter than the 13mm nuts holding the seats to the chassis).

    I would HIGHLY recommend this mod to anyone that feels they are sitting lower in the later model TJ's than they would like. $74 delivered was the best $74 I have spent on this Jeep yet!

    Thanks so much for the information!!! - Chuck :)
  • Hey everyone. I thought I would add the website for Buchanan Precision Machine. They make the seat risers for TJ's. Check my previous post on why I would recommend them if you need to sit higher than stock seat placement on newer TJ's (mine is 2003 Sahara Edition).

    Seat Riser
  • keatskeats Posts: 412
    That's great ocean_shipper. Easy install and to be able to see the end of the hood was quite a change. It's definitely one of the best mods for the money. My other couldn't live without mod while driving are the Raingler ballistic nylon hand straps
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