Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Jeep Wrangler



  • Why are these NOT being offered on the Rubicom 2-door?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I don't know (I'm thinking you mean 18" wheels), but I'd guess that it relates to the availability of applicable tires with a suitable aspect ratio.

    Is there a reason that you'd particularly want 18" rims on a Rubicon?
  • I did mean 18" wheels which are offered as options on the 4X4 4-door models and the Sahara 2-door model. Seems a bit odd the higher priced Rubicom does not offer this option for those who would prefer it.
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    Does anyone know where you can find colored anodized nuts for the doors, the ones you take on and off when you remove the steel doors? Mine are getting pretty ugly, the paint is in tatters.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Sorry, I replied to the wrong post!!! Sorry duck. You may be able to find those nuts from the dealer or perhaps (sells OEM stuff). Try this link:

    Jeeps Are Us anodized door nuts

    Honestly, putting 18" wheels on a Rubicon will do a few things for you:

    1. DRAMATICALLY increase the cost of tires that will go on them.
    2. DRAMATICALLY LIMIT the number of tire choices, especially in all terrain and mud terrain tires, the two primary tire types desired for a Rubicon.
    3. Affect your sidewall size when offroad. I know that sounds wierd, but it is true. Frequently, people air down when offroad to soften the tire a bit for better grip. It also makes the sidewall less stiff in the event a stick/root/rock/whatever wants to try and tear that sidewall. It'll tear a lot easier at full pressure. With the bigger wheels, your sidewall will invariably be shorter.

    15 or 16" wheels (16's being stock on the current 06 Rubicon) have a LOT of options available to them for offroad tires.

    18's would appeal more to the Jeep owners who will not wheel their Jeeps. Those that DO wheel them, especially Rubicons, will want something that doesn't limit their tire options.

  • I hear what you're saying erickpl, but with this "image thing" encapsulating the auto world today where looks are everything I'm surprised this option is limited. I'm sure there are tons of Wrangler owners who only version of "off-roading" is when they pull into their local gas station. As you stated, 18's would appeal more to the Jeep owners who will not wheel their Jeeps. That's my point. Many of these new Wranglers will be purchased as a "toy." Bought because of its fun appearance. That's why the new 4 door version arose. 18 wheels are just about the norm today in the N. American auto scene. One reason being they display the "sporty" perception. Most full size pickups now endorse a 20" wheel set up. Once again this "image" exposes itself.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Interestingly, my toy TJ runs on 15's and is quite happy. My street rides actually runs on 19's, but they are not Jeeps. :)

    I know the pickup world is embracing it. For street looks and to some measure, street performance/handling, the smaller sidewalls and bigger wheels help. So I can see SOME logic in that. However, offroad, the 15x8 or 15x10 wheels are still a smarter solution. It isn't as pretty on the street, but most who offroad don't really care about that 'sport image' or street cred. :)

    I've driven a Chevy Avalanche on 20's and it rode quite nice. It even had the Z71 package. But offroad, even in a muddy field, it would have been useless. :)

    I guess those who want to do it for the sporty image can go ahead and do it. If they want to look all sporty, that is fine and it should suit their needs and wants just fine. It is their choice and prerogative, just as it is for those who offroad and choose the setup that is best for THEIR needs and wants.

    I personally make mods when there is some benefit or value added for what I use it for. Image has never been part of it for me. If people think my Jeep looks aggressive, sporty, (insert adjective here), that's fine and I'll appreciate any comments I get, but ultimately it is what worked for me. Part of it is also an economic reasoning. I'm NOT going to pay even more for my 33x12.5's. They were about 150 each IIRC. A version that will wrap around 18's would be even more. No thanks. :)

    More power to anybody who wants to do that though!

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The simple and economic answer for anyone who prioritizes image over practicality (which they're perfectly entitled to do), is to purchase the model of their choice with 18" wheels and add the OE Rubicon decals to the hood.

    Voilà, a Wrangler with the external appearance of a Rubicon with OE 18" wheels, and at a significantly reduced price compared to the real thing. ;)
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The recent posts on wheel and tire sizes caused me to check out Apparently a new mystery tire is available. The following is information that comes up when building a Rubicon.

    32" BFGoodrich MTR Tires
    New industry-exclusive BFGoodrich® Mud tires have more tread blocks with biting edges for foul weather and off-road traction.
    This option is included with your selections.

    Now, Rubicons have always used MT/Rs as a 31x16, so a 32x17 seems a reasonable next step. However, MT/Rs are a Goodyear tire and Goodyear have always supplied Wrangler OE tires, usually GSAs.

    So, BF Goodrich is hardly a slip of the finger for Goodyear. A search of the BFG site reveals no tire called an MT/R. I guess that the mystery will be resolved when the first Rubicons appear on the lots.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Mac, from what I've seen, the Rubicons do indeed have a new tire/tread from BFG. I'll if I can find a pic of it.

    Here's one I found...


    Guess the Saharas are running Bridgestone Dueler AT's


  • mcrrtmcrrt Posts: 93
    I read somewhere (JP mag, IIRC) that the new Rubicon tires are a 32" BFG Mud Terrain, but with an updated tread pattern that is currently unique to the Rubicon. I would have to imagine that the new tread pattern reflects an updated design that we'll be seeing soon available to the public. ;)
  • 32" BFGoodrich MTR Tires
    New industry-exclusive BFGoodrich® Mud tires have more tread blocks with biting edges for foul weather and off-road traction. This 32" wheel/tire set up is standard on the Rubicon 4/2-door models. They look pretty "beefy" to say the least. THANKS for the pics/info erickp. I want to buy a summer machine next spring. A Harley is out of the question for I lost my brother in May when a drunk driver swerved into his lane and hit him head on. He bought the bike a week prior after finishing his 2 year stint with the Peace Corp. Would not wish that scene on anybody.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I read somewhere (JP mag, IIRC) that the new Rubicon tires are a 32" BFG Mud Terrain, but with an updated tread pattern that is currently unique to the Rubicon.

    Which would explain why only 17" wheels are available.

    Guess the Saharas are running Bridgestone Dueler AT's

    Good pics erickpl. The Rubicon's tires certainly aren't an MT/R pattern, in fact it looks very much like a standard BFG MT. If the Duelers on the Sahara are on 18s I'm afraid I don't like the look. To me a low profile tire on an offroader just looks weird, and of course the sidewall won't flex too well either.
  • 4rider4rider Posts: 96
    From a off-road perspetive, tires, with taller sidewalls(hence smaller rims), when aired down provide better grips and cushion than those of lower profiled tires on larger rims. The smaller rim,is also less likely to get damaged when side slipping is unavoidable.

    The inherent conflicting appealing points for street vs off-road is understandable. However, making a wrangler more appleaing to street performance or look just doesnt make sense. There are enough crossovers can do the trick. Why tarnish Wrangler's off-road heritage.
  • 4rider4rider Posts: 96
    Like Paul points out, the cost and selection of the mud or a/t tires on lager rims are big issues too.
  • Is anyone else having problems with logging on. I have to log in every visit even after I check "Remember Me".


  • Hi Tom,

    I'm so very sorry to hear about Gill. I hope his family is doing okay. What a shock to read through the posts and see that. So sad.

    Sorry I've been such a stranger around here. I've looked around from time to time - here and Gill's place. I still have my white Sahara. I'm seriously considering getting the 4 door one now. I'm bummed they don't have a white Sahara in 4 doors.

    I hope you're doing alright! How's the family?

    Saharagal (Laura)
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    The one thing I've always loved about the Wrangler is that it is so customizable. How many of us have bought a Wrangler and promptly replaced the OEM tires and/or rims (all right, I drove on the OEM tires until they needed to be replaced)? So it would make sense to offer OEM tires that middle of the road, and like those that need Muds, someone going for looks can buy their own 18s and have a real custom look.

    As long as our little vehicles are so versatile that it is easy to make changes, I'm happy.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    That's a problem a few people are experiencing and we're working on it! Take a look at this discussion KarenS, "Forums Software! Your Questions Answered..." #3083, 5 Oct 2006 8:11 am in Forums Software! Your Questions Answered....

    tidester, host
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    A reporter seeks longtime loyal Dodge-Chrysler-Jeep buyers who want the company to build a subcompact model or two. Please reply to no later than Friday, October 20, 2006 with a few relevant comments and your daytime contact info.

    Edmunds Manager UGC Click on my screen name to send a personal message. Need help navigating? Check out Getting Started in Edmunds Forums.
    Need help picking out a make/model, finding inventory, or advice on pricing? Talk to an Edmunds Car Shopping Advisor

  • I've always wanted a jeep as a second vehicle and recently reached a verbal agreement on a '98 Wrangler Sport, I6, manual transmission. The agreed price is $3800 usd (my allowance was $6k), however this particular jeep already has over 225,000 miles on it. I'm buying from the original owner (friend of a friend), mostly highway miles, and this guy kept meticulous maintenance records (notes and receipts all in a book which I will inherit). I had a mechanically inclined relative take a look at it and he said everything looks and sounds good except for an antifreeze leak which probably means the water pump needs to be replaced (STS receipt shows that some maintenance was done on the radiator [or something] and some hoses were replaced about 17k miles ago). I'm happy with everything about the jeep except for the mileage...

    I don't know much of anything about cars...this deal is not final - am I crazy to go through with it? Opinions would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance!
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    The water pump, radiator, thermostat, and hoses are all items you could easily replace yourself.

    I'm not mechanically inclined, but I've swapped that stuff (cept the pump) myself without too much problem.

    225k sounds a bit high IMO, but the 4.0 is a good solid engine good for a lot of use. If everything has been maintained well, and you have proof that was actually done, then it probably wouldn't be a problem. Would you be using this as a daily driver or for offroading?

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I think the mileage would be more of a factor if its service history was unknown. Any eight year old vehicle will require attention from time to time, regardless of the mileage. If you're going to buy an older model TJ, then in my opinion a high mileage example with a good service history is a better bet than a lower mileage model of unknown provenance.
  • Thanks Paul and mac24 for the of now I'm still planning to go through with the deal... I plan to put about 10,000 miles/year on the jeep - no off roading, something to get me to work when it snows and to the beach on summer weekends (I'm a little late on the latter).

    Mac - you make a good point about the high miles/known history vs. low miles/no history...

    I would love to be able to replace the water pump and such on my own, but I certainly don't trust myself. The boyfriend doesn't like to admit when he doesn't know something so I'm a little hesitant to have him work on my motor-powered toys...I do have that mechanically inclined cousin, but he's got a lot on his plate right now so I don't want to burden him with my repairs...going to call STS tonight to get an estimate on a water pump replacement. Then I might invest in "Auto Repair for Dummies"...!

    Thanks again!
  • BONUS! I just got notified that the guy I'm buying the jeep from noticed some antifreeze on his driveway so he took it to STS. Turned out to be a loose hose. Problem should be resolved.

    It makes me feel quite a bit better that, even knowing the car was pretty much sold, he cared enough to have the problem looked into.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591

    It's great to hear from you! It has been AGES!

    I'm doing OK, but still missing my Ross Allen Puppy awfully bad. I guess you had heard that I lost him? That was a little over a year ago.

    Yes, it was quite a blow to lose Old Giller. He and I were very good friends. We just seemed to have been meant to be buddies, because we immediately hit it off and had become good friends over the Internet and through phone conversations before even meeting one another in person.

    Stick around, Kiddo.

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • 4rider4rider Posts: 96
    A question on driver line issue associated with a 4-inch lift together with lowering transfer case. Assuming the lowered transfer case does not produce any noticible vibe in the drive shaft. Will this setup still develope a drive shaft related problem over time? i.e. Can this setup be a permanent solution?
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    I have never heard of a problem because of running a with a lowered transfer case, assuming the driveline angle was actually corrected by the transfer case drop.

    The transfer case drop takes away some of the clearance gained by the lift, and, in my opinion, they don't look very good either.

    The alternative is a slip yoke eliminator kit and a new driveshaft. The new driveshaft will have splines and will be able to get longer and shorter, which will mean the slip yoke is no longer necessary.

    The driveline length from the output of the transfer case to the rear differential's pinion yoke has to be able to get longer or shorter as the rear axle goes up and down when the vehicle's suspension is flexed. The same is true of the front driveline, of course.

    This lengthening and shortening is accomodated by the slip yoke at the back of the transfer case. The slip yoke makes the effective length of the transfer case greater, reducing the distance between the transfer case and the pinion yoke.

    The shorter the horizontal distance between these fixed points, the more the angle is changed when the transfer case is raised because of a suspension lift. So, a slip yoke eliminator makes for a greater length between the fixed points and brings the angle back closer to the original angle.

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • 4rider4rider Posts: 96
    Thank to Tom for such detailed info. No question that SYE and CV drive shaft is the true solution. The only cole reality is it cost fair amont of $$$. Wodering why Jeep does not build it with SYN and CV from the factory to begin with?

    Another related quetion is that since the lift afftects both front and rear drive shafts, does this mean the front drive shaft needs the similar SYE modification also??
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Wodering why Jeep does not build it with SYN and CV from the factory to begin with?

    Hmmm........what could the answer be? :shades:

    It should also be noted that the replacement propeller shaft has two adjacent 'u' joints (just like on the front shaft) which comprise a cardan joint, not a CV (constant velocity) joint.

    Another related quetion is that since the lift afftects both front and rear drive shafts, does this mean the front drive shaft needs the similar SYE modification also??

    No, the front prop shaft is much long than the rear, so the angular change is much less than on the rear when the suspension is lifted. It's the fact that the rear shaft is so short that causes the problems when doing a lift.
Sign In or Register to comment.