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Jeep Wrangler



  • Hello everyone Ive not been on since July 05, hope everyone is doing good. I have been trying to get an 07 wrangler and trade my 05 rubi unlimited. No luck so far to much difference between trade and amount owed :-( Plus the dealers in my area want sticker or over sticker for rubi's on the 07's. Same issue i had when i purchased mine in Dec. 04 and it forced me to buy out of state....There is someone in my neighborhood that has the sahara 4 door w/ hardtop and rescue green and its sharp...i want the darker jeep green and a 4 door for the family...anyone have one? if so how do you like it? Take care everyone be back soon i hope...Jeff
  • Hi Tom,

    Its been a while since we chatted. I still appreciate all your help while i was making my decision on my 05. Take Care, Jeff
  • what kind of lift did you put on the jeep. Ive got an 05 rub unlimited and would like to get a lift since i cannot get a descent trade-in value....Jeff
  • yjohnyjohn Posts: 32
    Will I have much of any trouble swapping my frame out if my jeep is a 6 cylinder and the frame i'm looking at a is a 4 cylinder?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It should just be the engine and transmission mounting points that differ. They don't usually rust out so you should be able to cut yours off and weld them into the 'new' frame. Remember, measure twice cut once! :shades:
  • yjohnyjohn Posts: 32
    My current YJ has a 3" body lift and 16 inch rims with P245/70/16's. If I swap the frame, will i be able to keep the wheels and tires without using the body lift? My thought was that i might get better fuel economy, but will it really make a big difference?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Your tires are a virtual equivalent to a 30" so you should be ok without a body lift, though the frame swap has no bearing on it. Any fuel saving, while theoretically feasible, is unlikely to be measurable. Sixteen inch rims are fairly unusual, are you sure they're not fifteens?
  • yjohnyjohn Posts: 32
    yes, the previous owner put on 16" aluminum american racing rims wrapped in the michelins previously mentioned along with a 3" body lift">image
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Yup, nice wheels but definitely lose the lift (or at least drop it to a 1"). :)
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    For a Rubicon, it depends on how much lift you want. A small OME 2.5" lift, like Mac, Tom, and I all have would be great.

    The RE 3.5" lift is another lift I hear good things about. Those lift heights should work great for a Rubicon. A body/motor lift would be another option to keep your suspension lift smaller (easier to deal with) yet still allow room for flex and somewhat larger tires.

  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Welcome back!

    I first had a used 2" Procomp suspension lift on Thelma Jane, but the springs had finally sagged to the point where I might have actually had an inch of lift, if even that much.

    I recently replaced the Procomp lift with an Old Man Emu 2" lift. I went with the HD version, and that gave me nearly 3" of lift. It is very common for people to get more than 2" out of the 2" OME lifts, especially in the HD version.

    I absolutely LOVE that OME lift. The ride quality is BETTER than stock.


  • yjohnyjohn Posts: 32
    Lost out on the eBay frame. Looks like that frame swap will be further off yet. :cry:
  • Know any one looking for a Jeep Wrangler? '91 I6 5spd, fresh rebuilt motor, one up cam, roller rockers, ported and pollished 3angle valve job ported/polished intake and exhaust Borla header, high floe cat, Turbocity Throttle body and spacer, intake and filter, cap/rotor/wires & plugs, new radiator, Flexalite electric fan, Dual force Clutch/flywheel, 3" suspension lift, 31x10.50x15 BF Goodrich MT TA's, steel braded brake lines, 2 sets of KC daylighters, custom steel tube bumpers, bikini top 3 pieces and a whole lot more...

    Body is straight, no accidents, paint is ok, hard top needs painted, drivers door needs internals worked on a little. Only had Mobil 1....

    I really hate to sell it, but Times are Hard. I've had this thing for a few years now. It was my toy. I'm choking back the tears as i type this.

    I can be reached at 973-713-4958 or

    by the way i'm in new jersey.

  • Hi all,

    I just placed my order for a 2007 Wrangler X (2-door; steel blue) with pkg 24S, auto transmission, infiniti speakers, and tow package (4.10:1 axle ratio and Dana 44 rear) I have some questions.

    1) Who makes the best rubber floor mats? (I really like the weathertech floor liners but don't think they are available for the JK. Also cannot find mats for the rear).

    2) I plan to install arb air lockers front and rear (once the warranty expires, of course). How much time (labor) would be involved in this procedure (10 hrs+)?

    3) I will only have the Dana 44 rear (not the front like the Rubi) so I was wondering what is the largest tire I could go with without overstressing my axles or rubbing? I really like the BFG A/T KO and was thinking P265s or something.

    thanks a bunch
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591

    Congrats on your Jeep order!

    Husky Floor Liners are hard to beat for floor mats. They have a nice high lip around the edge to keep the muddy water from running out onto the carpet.

    Sounds like you will be doing some pretty serious off roading, since you plan to lock the front and rear axles. I'm not enough of a mechanic to advise you on the install time for those lockers. You will have an air compressor to install in addition to the lockers. I would think it would be a BIG job, and it would require some pretty high class mechanical skills. You would have to know how to set gears, and not just anyone can do that.

    That was a real good move to get the Dana 44 rear axle. It will support larger tires and a locker, but it is NOT indestructable. Driving technique is still important.

    Once again, congrats!

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • Hello all...Diego from Miami

    98 Sahara w/73k miles
    Warn 8000 series
    AR 15" and BFG AT 325/60-15
    and is good ;)

    So I've been reading and searching around the board for quite some time now and I've seen a few issues that I've had as well so many thanks to all!

    Now for my complaints and grievances...

    My TPS has been acting up since I tossed my rig into the everglades trails and took it up to the headlights in water. Yes, I'm VERY jungle fighter just kept on chugging along....woot wooot...steady as he goes! It acts up every once in a while and gives me a check engine but I throttle through the stalling thing it does and just deal with it and eventually it goes away.

    Next, I'm running wheels with negative offset and I just replaced my front wheel bearings. I'm sure the 325/60 tires, negative offset and my less than conservative driving habits have something to do with this. Btw, the wide BFG AT's and neg offset together with the stock suspension helps for quick and aggressive street driving like you would not imagine. I drive this thing HARD...and it takes the beating like nothing I've ever owned (this is my second TJ, btw...).

    So if the neg offset wheels are destroying my car, please let me know...I have a set of factory 15" wheels (i think the model is called the outlaw? the one with the 5 or 6 holes and the rivets all over the place). Both my current tires and the ones on the other wheels are GONE so I need new ones regardless. However, I know my transmission and drivetrain are going to be due for a SERIOUS overhaul soon, but I would like to avoid that for as long as advice here? know there is no such thing...but does anyone have any advice or ideas on this subject? How good is the tuffy center console insert and the tuffy glove box?

    Overall...I love my jeep, even though I beat it up whenever the mood is right ;)

    My interior still looks great, carpets, seats, dash, panels, etc... these cars (erggh...trucks) are unstoppable...truly H2 recovery vehicles!

    ...always waving ;p
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Personally I'd replace the TPS. It's not expensive, it won't get better on its own, and it will let you down eventually.

    Wider tires and negative offset wheels will shorten the life of your wheel bearings, but not in the short term. However, once the bearings start to get a little wear the seals don't work as well, which will then allow water and contaminants by more easily, which in turn will accelerate the wear on the bearings. So, extra loading plus a severe working environment is worse than just the extra loading.

    Both the Tuffy console and glove box inserts are very good. A complete and well secured Tuffy console is even better.

    Keep waving!
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    What Mac said.

    I would have told you the same thing... the water/mud that your wheel bearings have been exposed to on what I assume is a fairly regular basis would have contributed to your bearing failure much more than the backspacing of your wheels would have.

    I've had to replace one of mine, and I know it's because of all the " wheelin' " I do. I stay out of mud and water whenever possible, but it cannot be completely avoided where I go.

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • Thanks so much for your help. I was wondering what size I could go for tires with the Dana 44 rear and Dana 30 Front? There was no way of getting the Dana 44 in the front without ordering the Rubi. Once my warranty expires, I would seriously consider doing a front axle swap.

    Also, any reason why the warranty on the powertrain is only 3 yrs/36K miles. I plan on keeping this thing for at least 6 to 7 years.

  • Hi again,

    I was also wondering if I made a good choice going with the automatic. I drove both but didn't care too much for how the manual shifted. My old man has a '94 D-90 with a manual and actually wishes he had an automatic for off-roading (rock crawling, etc.)

    Will an automatic be good for off-roading? And what about 0-60 performance? Will it be a lot slower on the highway. I have not seen 0-60 times for the '07 two door but have seen the dismal numbers for the Unlimited 4 door.

    thanks again
  • Sorry for the late chime-in. Looks like Crane and Baertrax both make great products, but they both come with hefty price tags as well.
    Poison Spyder make two more great options that are worth your time to check out. For protection to your existing cover, they make the Rock Ring (about $100). If you're looking for a complete replacement cover, for a few dollars more, they make the bigger, beefier Bombshell (about $140).
    I went with the Bombshell. The install was easy and the Bombshell has been just that so far.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The D44 in the front of a Rubi is a Dana 'special' with weakest links that are little stronger than a those of a D30. You have to try fairly hard to break a D30, and when you do it's usually a half shaft or 'U' joint that breaks.

    Maximum tire size in relation to breakage has more to do with your right foot than anything else. Axles usually break when a rapidly spinning and bouncing wheel suddenly gets traction. Some people happily run 37's with the D44, while others regularly break things with 33's. I would say your tire choices are going to be more restricted by any decision on a lift, rather than by axle type.

    Finally, warranties have more to do with marketing than anything else at the moment. The powertrain warranty used to be 7/70, but as a manufacturer why incur that extra expenditure if you can sell every vehicle you produce. You can always buy an aftermarket warranty if you feel insecure. Otherwise, invest the same amount of money in a maintenance fund.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    As a general rule on TJ's, 35's are generally considered the 'norm' max size for 44's, but I've seen people run larger 37's on em.

    As Tom mentioned, driver habit is a BIG deciding factor. If you are seriously into the skinny pedal while on obstacles, 33's may be your effective max size, while somebody who is lighter on the pedal may get away with 37's or even 39's (if properly geared).

    I have 33's on my D35, but it has upgraded shafts too.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The pros and cons of transmission types are pretty much a wash for the Wrangler.

    The auto works well offroad and saves you from having to use a third foot that a manual sometime requires. The only downside offroad is a reduction in compression braking when going downhill.

    On road, the differences are the same as for any vehicle. The gas mileage will be a little worse, as will acceleration.

    Neither is better or worse than the other, just different.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    We're trying to simplify the Wrangler boards a bit and some of the posts (especially the maintenance ones) have been moved. Our software doesn't like to keep the dates straight so some of the threads are out of sequence, so please just skip over that (ok maybe some of it is operator error, give an old CJ-5'er a break). :shades:

    If you find yourself rereading old posts, please use the Mark As Read button to get caught up. Thanks!
  • 4rider4rider Posts: 96
    I had the same question before I bought my Jeep. My experience on my Auto so far is that the street performance is quite ok. A lot of the "slow going" I have been feeling is actully due to, partially, the farily loud engine noise which makes me feel it is slower than it actually is.

    On the trail, I am suprisingly to find out with 1st gear and low range, it gives me more than enough power to climb or to move at crawl speed on rough terrian with complete control and no stalling. This is exactly what I want. With manual, you would probably need the help from a hand throtle to achieve the similar level of control. By then again, individual preference is still the main dermining factor.
  • Hello again...i have a question regarding tires (re: my last post). I have 325/60-15 (30.5x12.9) BFG AT's and i love them. My wheels are AR 15x10 w/ -38 offset (I'm pretty sure). My suspension is stock and I've removed the "boxing gloves" so I've got plenty of room up front. So how big can i go? Can i go with 33x12.5? My tire size no longer exists in the All-Terrain tire and I don't do enough off roading to justify the Mud TA. I also don't want to go back to 9.5" wide wheels...or get any smaller (not like the BFG comes in any other size anyway). am now riding around on near-bald tires and slip n' slide in the WalMart parking lot has lost it's thrill.

    Diego is good :P
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I don't understand your offset figure so go here: Tom's definitive backspacing post, to check out how to measure it.

    If you don't need full articulation of your suspension, i.e. you're going to drive highway only, then you can go to 33x12.5. However, if you want to continue offroading then 31x10.5s or possibly 32x11.5s will be most useful to you without a lift. The 32x11.5s are better suited to your rim width but you will get some fender rubbing on full flex. The 31x10.5s will be a little stretched on your 10" rims but their overall diameter will give better body clearance. Rubbing at full lock shouldn't be a problem as you seem to have decreased backspacing. Unless you do a lot of heavy mudding you'll be pleased with the BFG AT KOs.
  • I've been looking around and I found some BFG AT's in 32x11.5r15 and the price is right. Do you think they will fit well without much articulation loss? I don't want to be limited...I would consider getting a 1" body lift, but then what is the cheapest bang for the buck? Not too sure about those coil spacer things. Seems like they can come out if I catch air on one of my trail runs. btw, for all interested in off-road racing, there are some lovely dirt straights in the homestead farm roads :)!

    thanks again!

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I've been looking around and I found some BFG AT's in 32x11.5r15 and the price is right. Do you think they will fit well without much articulation loss?

    Hmmm.....didn't I just answer that very question for you in the post immediately prior to yours?

    If you like driving rutted trails at speed then seriously consider the OME suspension lift. Those are the conditions it was originally designed for.
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