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Jeep Wrangler



  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Try the embed image box on the album page where the full size image is - it'll wind up looking like this when you paste it in a post:

    imageSee more Car Pictures at

    And I take it all back about rocks - nary a one for miles around. :D

    I sort of did that with a '57 Chevy when I was around 17. Except I had muddy water in the floorboards in the backseat. A logging truck came along and jerked the car out after a half hour. :blush:
  • Just bought 01 Jeep Wrangler Sport for $11,500 w/53K miles. Was this a good deal? Also, can any one tell me what the standard features are? This one has no console, automatic,soft top, sound bar w/Polk Speakers, and aftermarket radio/CD. Also, can anyone suggest best cleaner for soft top and proper way to clean windows? Last, can anyone tell me best way to store windows and top when it is taken off? Thanks. Any advice is appreciated.
  • yjbobyjbob Posts: 56
    The "new" 3.8L pushrod OHV V-6 is the Chrysler minivan standard motor, and has seen a lot of service in that application. I put 130,000 miles on a '95 van and I have 40,000 on my current van - no major problems. Since this motor has only been mounted transversely in front wheel drive vehicles, the fan is driven by an electric motor, not belt-driven. Under he hood, I have seen that the V-6 fits nicely in the Wrangler, with pretty good access to many maintenance items.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Prices vary throughout the country, so it's hard to say. However, you'd better just take it for granted that the answer is 'yes', as anything else is going to make you unhappy. ;)

    As far as I remember you should have a console in a Sport, but I can't recall which were standard features and which were options. You can probably pick up a brochure for your model year on eBay.

    You can buy a cover to protect the top when it's folded, and there are various bags, rolls, and cases to hold the windows. You can also put the windows between soft towels and either lay them flat or roll them up.
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    I have kind of a strange philosophy when it comes to prices of vehicles. I once owned a Toyota Tacoma that I absolutely hated. I bought it new for several hundred over invoice, so got a reasonably good deal but I couldn't wait to get rid of it (took 4 very long years before I could afford to dump it). As far as I was concerned, it wasn't worth the "good deal" - it wasn't worth 2 cents to me.

    On the other hand, I bought a '98 Wrangler (early version) for $500 over dealers invoice. Even though I had guessed that it was an unwind, the dealership didn't actually admit it until we had already struck a deal. Since the vehicle had over 700 miles on it, it was legally a used car, so I got a lousy deal on it. But I loved that Jeep - it was worth every penny I paid for it and then some to me. I sadly sold it this summer (didn't need two Wranglers and we had bought a Fit to deal with the high price of gas). That vehicle was definitely worth the money I paid for it, no matter whether the "deal" was good or not.
  • 99tj99tj Posts: 187
    you outta be able to find a used console out there on ebay or a salvage yard. I did a quick search for "jeep console" on EBAY and came up with many returns...factory and aftermarket.

  • Thanks mac. I brought it to the dealer, they said the problem could be caused by a number of things, rent a car from us it'll be a few days. I said a friend had the same problem and it just needed a new clock spring, and to start there first. My jeep was ready in 2 hours. $0 b/c still under warranty. Thanks again mac. :)
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    As for console, if there is no center console, fork over the ponies for a Tuffy security console. It replaces the stock one completely, so if you don't have one, installation is a LOT easier ;).

    You can securely store things in it and it looks good too!

    Best soft top cleaner would be something formulated for that kind of stuff. I use some simple green with water, scrub with a soft brush. Rinse, repeat. Then I use 303 Protectant to keep the UV from messing it up.

    For the windows, a CLEAN SOFT rag with SOAP and WATER. Do NOT use ammonia based cleaners.

    For the windows, I usually keep them in back and roll them up. My roll has soft cloth between the layers. When I have my top OFF and am running the safari top, I have a storage bag I keep all that in.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Keep in mind, those GC's are very capable offroad, but a number of factors can affect it.

    1. Driver skill. Looking at their expressions, I suspect they thought they knew what they were doing, but were in a bit over their heads.
    2. Tires. No stock tire for the Grand Cherokee is gonna work in mud like that. Boggers or Mud Terrains are required.

    That you stopped and helped is admirable. That the others didn't is deplorable. Realize that there are new folks to wheeling and not everybody knew it all when starting, especially those who are just wanting to see how much their Jeeps can take! ;)

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    As mac mentioned, there are options:

    1. CO2 tank.

    Easily transportable and can be used for other vehicles.
    Properly equipped with adjustable regulator, can be used to run air tools.
    Can be cheaper to build

    Have to refill
    Limited amount of CO2 to use
    Needs storage space to carry

    2. On board compressor - this would be like using an old AC compressor, like a York 210 compressor to inflate tires and such.

    Very efficient and fast
    Doesn't require additional storage, unless you use a tank to store air ready for use instead of directly from the compressor
    Unlimited air supply

    Can be very costly for proper installation
    More possibilities for leaks in system
    Requires more labor/effort to setup
    Requires (usually) modification to engine air box setup

    I went with CO2 as I don't wheel often enough to justify a full OBA setup. Nor do I run air tools. I got my setup built (did it myself) for:
    $75.00 for a 10 LB CO2 tank (NEW)
    $45.00 for a 150 psi fixed regulator (NEW)
    $10.00 for a 25' coil hose and air chuck

    Compared to over $200-$300 for a 'name brand' CO2 setup, I like my setup. :)

    So for about $130, I have a good working setup. I have a friend who is going to make me a storage rack that will mount up to my Jeeperman bumper and sit outside the Jeep.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I still like my last option! ;)
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Yeah, well you're biased. :)

  • I think we would like that option best. My problem is I can't afford the container it comes in.

    Terry :D
  • How much CO2 does your setup give you? From what I've read, the beauty of the "name brand" is that it actually uses liquid CO2, so the volume of usable gas is tremendous.
    Ever try a portable electric like the ARB or the ViAir?

    Thanks for the info.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The ARB works well for operating diffs but doesn't really have the volume for tires. Viair has several models, the smallest being similar to the ARB with the bigger ones becoming progressively more useful (and expensive). None will provide the output that an engine driven a/c compressor, On Board Air for instance, can give. It's all about volume.

    I'll let erickpl give more specifics on his system, but I'm not aware of any practical setup that stores gaseous rather liquid CO².
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I have a 10# CO2 setup (yes it is liquid). When it comes out the pressurized liquid comes out as a gas, same as any CO2 system.

    A 10# tank holds 640 gallons of 'air' or CO2. I can fill up my 33x12.5x15 tires from 10 to 35 PSI (just above my street pressure) in just over a minute per tire. I usually only air down to about 16 psi or so, so the times will be shorter.

    I can get roughly 4 wheeling trips in before having to refill the tank (about 15 fillups when going from 10 to 35), but since I go from 16 to 33, I should be able to get 16 fills with no problem.

    I have an ARB compressor to run my locker in back, but the volume is so minimal it takes about 20 minutes to fill a tire, and THAT is way longer than the recommended non-stop run time for that compressor.

    While I wanted a York compressor, I did not want to have to relocate my air box or go with a cold air intake, esp for an offroad vehicle. Also, I didn't want to give up A/C or have to deal with all the hoses/wiring/gauges/etc that a hard-wired setup would entail. The portable CO2 lets me use it for other purposes, including filling sports equipment, air mattresses, etc...

    It is all personal preference, but to ME, the cost vs frequency and the labor involved to set up pushed me to the CO2 tank.

    If you offroad a LOT and/or have air-powered tools, then a York or Viair setup may be the best choice for you. For me, as cool as it is, it just wasn't.

  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    Do you need to re-adjust your headlights after doing a lift? When we were coming into work this morning, an oncoming lifted pickup's headlights were shining right in my eyes - more so than most pickups (they are common in my area). I wondered how many people think about checking/adjusting their headlights when they do lifts.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I wondered how many people think about checking/adjusting their headlights when they do lifts.

    Not too many from what I see around here. It's even more important if a lift is used to level the vehicle from a previous 'nose down' attitude.

    In Europe, where they take blinding an oncoming driver a little more seriously than we seem to here, Wranglers are equipped with an electrically operated headlight levelling system, so that if you're carrying a load (rear seat passengers, trailer etc.) the driver can correct the headlight adjustment with a four position switch.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I've seen many European cars do that as well (like Audi, BMW, MB, etc) in their HID lighting applications.

    I adjusted my lights:
    - after installing the IPF lighting
    - after doing my OME lift
    - after doing my BL (had to remove the lights anyway for that to make it easier)

    I have NOT done it since installing the .75" spacers and that may explain why I get flashed to turn off the brights occasionally.

    I have a list of things to do to Kermit. Time to add one more.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I'm trying to locate a fog light mounting bracket for the OEM TJ fog lights. It is the bracket type that also helps align the fogs up or down.

    I've contacted the dealer - I'd have to buy a whole setup. Uh, no. Does anybody have a broken foglamp that they'd otherwise be pitching or have some sources I could try?

  • co2 is never in a liquid state.It sublimates, going directly from a solid to a gas, never passing through a liquid state.Think of it as ice cubes in your freezer.Ever notice them getting smaller and smaller without thawing out (melting)That too, is a form of sublimation. The only reason I know this is because I operated liquid o2n2 plants in the Navy for 5 years
  • yjbobyjbob Posts: 56
    Previous answer is partially correct. CO2 does not exist as a liquid at atmosphereic pressure (that is why dry ice doesn't melt - it goes directly from asolid to a gas). But at high enough pressure (75+ psig) CO2 can be compressed into the liquid state. So in pressurized tanks, the CO2 actually is a liquid, but when it discharges into the air, it instantly changes into a mix of CO2 gas and CO2 "snow".
  • hey everyone! I have a few questions, but they are all related to the lift. I have read the previous posts on lifts and they have answered many of my questions, but I have a few more and maybe even a few questions to be clarified.

    I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler X model. It has been a GREAT vehicle for both travel and daily driving, but it needs some "beefyness" if you get what I mean. Its still completely factory, which I believe is understandable because I've only had the Jeep since last May.

    I want to get a 4" Series II Rough Country lift. My first question is if I can get away with keeping my stock wheels and putting 33" x 10.5" tires? I know they will fit and everything, but since they are not very wide, I was wondering if I could get some advice on whether they are safe or not (roll over risk...etc.).

    Ok, second question, I will not be offroading anytime soon because of how new my car is. I want to put some age on my vehicle before I run it through the woods. So in other words I will be a "poser" for a lil while. Does this mean I will need to get a replacement stablizer, slip yoke eliminator, and the CV custom driveshaft? Or since I will be staying onroad will I be alright without? I've also heard a lot about regearing. What is the benefits of that other than power, and if I don't regear will that hurt my vehicle?

    Any help will be very much appreciated! The site for the lift and those other parts are here link title
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    A lift and larger diameter tires will raise the center of gravity but, unless you try to corner it like a sports car, the most noticable effect will be in extreme cambered situations offroad.

    With regard to s/stabilizers, SYEs, and custom driveshafts, the situation is reversed. A lack of the above will be most noticable on-road, in terms of serious vibration. Off-road, if you keep the speed down, you won't notice the lack of them at all, (though you may need to put a spacer on the rear end of the rear prop shaft).

    Not re-gearing might negatively affect fuel consumption and acceleration, but it won't damage your vehicle.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Building on what Mac said:

    1. 33x10.5's should fit on stock wheels. I have 33x12.5's on my Canyons which are 8" wide.
    2. Your rollover risk will go up a bit since you are raising your COG. But if you drive prudently, the increased risk will be minimal.
    3. I've heard VERY mixed results about the Rough Country lifts. You may want to consider Rubicon Express or OME as better options.
    4. With a 4" lift, you will likely need either a transfer case drop (usually comes with lift kits) or do the SYE. The drop is a cheaper solution since you don't need the SYE, new rear driveshaft and adjustable control arms in back.
    5. Replacement stabilizers will be unnecessary if you balance and align tires properly after lift. They tend to MASK issues instead of prevent them.
    6. Going from stock to 33's, you will see a performance hit and a noticeable change in what your speedo reads vs true speed. Regearing is the best way to regain stock 'power' to the now-oversized tires. A new speedo gear would probably be good too (fairly cheap from the dealer) and is based on your new differential gear settings and tire size. It won't hurt anything other than your pocketbook for more gas if you don't regear.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    3. I've heard VERY mixed results about the Rough Country lifts.......

    Me too, but I thought I'd let someone else express it first! ;)

    Apparently the name (Rough Country) is an accurate descriptor of the product's performance. (What's the correct term for that?)
  • Thanks to all for their input. I appreciate it a lot. I have more things to think about and I'm sure you'll see me again on here as I am an avid reader for this forum!
  • yjohnyjohn Posts: 32
    could someone tell me the stock differential ratios for a 6cyl YJ ('92)?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Depends on transmission type. Also depends on which trim level and options it had from the factory.

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