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Jeep Wrangler



  • Hey to all
    I'm wanting to put a 4" lift on my 1998 Wrangler to fit 33" tires however i heard that with 4" lifts the angles of the drivetrain can effect the way the jeep drives. Can someone tell me more about this?? solutions? how big the problem can be?

  • Ive read here about how superior OME lifts are and decided to purchase one. I have an 05 rubi unlimited soft top and ordered the OME 2.5' system with Heavy Duty Springs. Im having it installed since the install was on special for $99 and included the alignment.

    Since the rubi sits 1" higher how much if any lift will i get from the OME with the HD springs. I was thinking the 2.5" would be for a regular TJ but i dont know. Just curious as ive got about 2 weeks before it will be installed. Thanks, Jeff
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    A lift with 4" starts putting you in the range where you have to change a LOT of stuff for it to be 'complete and correct'.

    A better option would be a 3" suspension lift and a 1" body lift. 3" lifts are generally less expensive, don't have the steering geometry in a mess (4" and up may require a drop pitman arm, which can lead to bigger problems).

    Rubicon Express, OME (my preference), Rusty's Offroad all do decent kits for this size.

    My TJ has the OME kit with the JKS 1.25" BL and I fit 33's just fine.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Part of what makes a Rubicon sit higher is the larger tires that come on it (roughly 31's IIRC).

    My OME netted me 3.25" but my springs were a bit tired, to be nice.

    Most OME lifts net about 2.25" to 2.5", so I'd imagine you'd still get about 2" or so of lift. Measure the height between the top of the tires and the bottom of the fender flares on each corner BEFORE you put the lift on, then measure it again after the lift is on.

    Even if you don't get a huge lift out of it, you'll still love it!

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Mac, a followup to your observation about my IPF lights and the square pattern. Here is the reflector on those same lights...



    Just wanted you to see the pattern.

  • unlimitjunlimitj Posts: 19

    First, great choice with the OME kit. You won't be disappointed.
    BUT, the Unlimited/Unlimited Rubicon have some differences that you should be made aware of and ask questions about. The HD springs that come as a part of the kit may or may not be right for your rig, depending on what you have on it. I have a 2006 Unlimited with an ARB Bullbar and winch on the front and a soft top. I installed the HD kit and found that it wasn't quite right (front sat about 1.25-1.5" lower than the rear).
    I did some research and found that there were more factors involved and more options when it comes to the Unlimited.
    The HD kit isn't made for the Unlimited, it's made for the SWB Wrangler. ARB/OME recommends a different spring in the back of the Unlimited. The one that comes with the kit is part#942 and the Unlimited spring for that size lift is part#949. It's a thicker coil, made for the extra weight of the Unlimited, especially if you consider putting on a hard top. That being said, I kept my 942 springs in the rear because I rarely carry more than a couple hundred pounds of gear in the back and never plan to have a hard top. The 942 is a great riding spring, but not what ARB (who makes OME) recommends.
    For the front, the HD kit comes with part#933 springs, which may work for you, depending on what you've got up front. I upgraded to #934 springs (actually made for a Grand Cherokee) to even out my ride height. A little taller and stiffer spring, but for my Unlimited, with the heavy front end, they turned out to be perfect.
    Since you haven't installed it yet, I would definitely ask questions of the shop you purchased from, down to exact spring diameters, heights and rates to make sure that they agree that you've got the right stuff for your specific application. If not, I'm sure they can get you the right springs and make sure everything goes in right the first time.
  • Thanks for the note on the springs...I have a "stock" rubi unlimited auto with a soft top and do NOT plan on adding a new front/rear bumper/winch/larger tires or adding a hard top.

    I mainly got the OME suspension system to improve the ride/handling and a 1-2 in lift would be a bonus for me. After reading your comments I hope the HD springs front a rear work for me but i dont know now. The tech said he has only heard good things about OME and said it was a good choice. The place had to put an order into OME for the system and is why its taking 10 days before its installed.

    *I just checked my order and although it does not state exactly what springs #s its an OME system for the unlimited. I will probably call the store to double check.
  • OK i just called the place i ordered the OME system and told them what you said about the springs for the Unlimited. He kinda chuckled and said i got ya taken care of and ordered those we are set and just waiting on the parts from ARB/OME.

    I did not order the OME steering dampener, should I?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Only need the steering stabilizer if you have a leaky one right now. With stock tires, and even slightly bigger, you should be fine.

    They really only mask problems that should be properly addressed. If your steering is set up right, you shouldn't need one.

    Who'd ya order from?

  • I ordered from 4 wheel parts..they have a store 3 miles from my office here in Fort Worth. I did not know 4 wheel parts did installs and thought it was only a parts place. I called when they were having a discount sale and said they had 50% off install/Alignment one day sale if i paid in full.

    I had planned on doing the intall myself with my brothers help but for the price it was easier to let them do it for me.

    In the past I had been using Diamond Offroad Customs when i had my 98ZJ lifted and really liked them but they moved about 65 miles from my home.

    4wheel parts has been very helpful and has had the best prices ive found given the discounted price.

    I did find a nice Bimini extended top for my unlimited for $24 on quadratech, they are having a close out special on this top and the channel was like $29, which was a steal since the bikini top for the TJL is around $100+$29 for channel.

    Thanks for the info. I will not order the steering stabilizer as mine is fine...kinda upset though as its the easiest thing to install, LOL....might get it anyway to go with the yellow shocks with the OME kit...Heck im excited and looking forward to the OME system. Thanks everyone here for all the years of input ive read I know its been helpful to me. Jeff
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Interesting design. I wonder if it was initiated by marketing or r&d? Still, it obviously works and that's the main thing.

    I'll be keeping my Hella 'E' Code reflectors and adding a HID H4 kit. I'm still deciding whether to go with a type 1 (single HID bulb/single beam), type 2 (single HID bulb plus Xenon bulb/dual beam), or type 3 (single motorized HID bulb/dual beam). If I go with type 1 I'll be adding a pair of driving lights for main beam.

    By the way, you are going to re-spool that winch before you put a load on it aren't you? ;)
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Respool the winch line? Nah! :)

    The worst part was when it was new. I hadn't redone it before its first use and boy was there slippage. It is just the top layer that is laying ugly and 'loose'.

    Once I spool that out and connect to whatever, the underlying layers are nice and tight.

  • I was checkn out the pics of your jeep and it looks great. I had a couple of questions, what tire brand and style do you run, i know u said they are 33's. Also, on the JKS body lift is that something that can be done at home without special tools?

    As you know im getting the OME susp system and would like to run 33's as their is a nice special on tires right now, Plus i like the look with 33's. I dont know if i would need the body lift to run 33's with the OME so if its something i can put on great, if not i will have the install done at the same time as the OME is completed. Thanks Jeff
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735

    I have the TrXuS MT's (Mud Terrains).

    The Body lift is easily doable at home in the driveway. I used a socket wrench for most of it, floor jack, etc. For the grille snubbers, I removed the headlight holders so I could get a pair of pliers in there to pull the ends through.

    With the OME, you CAN get by without the BL, but you better not be going offroad. For any kind of flexing, you'll really want the BL.

  • unlimitjunlimitj Posts: 19
    As Paul said, you can definitely get away without putting on the Body Lift if you're keeping this thing on the pavement. BUT you have to have either a body lift or appropriate bump stops if you're going off road.
    33" tires are big enough to contact your fenders and other parts and can do some serious damage if you don't put enough clearance between your tires and the Jeep.
    The body lift is the way to go and is definitely something you can do yourself.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I used a writeup at as my guideline for installation. It was a great compliment to the instructions from JKS. Just take the time and set out the right bolts for the right spots.

  • guy21guy21 Posts: 129
    While persuing the NHTSA site today I noticed that there is a D-C TSB covering steering shimmy complaints. It would appear to cover at least the 2004 model year.

    Would anyone be able to post the text or intent of the TSB?
  • guy21guy21 Posts: 129
    The TSB Number is 19-003-06. It ivolves installing a "revised" steering damper on 1997 - 2006 Wranglers for the following symptom: "Steering shimmy may occur after hitting a bump in the road at highway speeds".
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    That sure sounds like a band-aid.

    If your steering is right on, a steering dampener (steering stabilizer) shouldn't even be required. I would think there is more to it, but perhaps I'm just over analyzing it. :)

  • moharamohara Posts: 16
    well, i recently upgraded to some BFG ATs at 30in from my old 28in tires and just in time for a snowstorm that hit last week. unfortunately, my wiper motor gave out on the highway during the storm, so although I had good traction, I couldnt see where I was going. The motor went really slow in both fast and slow settings, and slowly died over the two days it took me to get a new one. it died completely two days ago and wouldnt move at all.

    i installed a new (well, rebuilt) motor yesterday, got it all in and turned the wipers on. they moved smoothly across the windshield... once. then nothing.

    i tried to make sure the drive arm was in the same position as the old one when it went on. is there any trick to installing these that i should know about?

    thanks for any help.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I'd run a line test to make sure you're getting good power to the motor.

    If the power is good, you may want to ensure the wiring is indeed good/non-damaged and all connetions are solid. Some dielectric grease at those points will help, as well as keep moisture out of there. I have experienced situations where wires/cables have gotten eaten due to various things (mainly battery acid after a rolled my Jeep).

    If the power is good, I'd remove the arms - wondering if they aren't quite where they need to be and somehow obstruct movement. Then engage it to see where it stops/starts as it goes back and forth. Then do test fits of the arms to get them lined back up properly.

    If the rebuilt motor is indeed bad, I would think they'd honor a warranty and replace it.

  • moharamohara Posts: 16
    I dont think anything is blocking it, since the motor has no sound to it at all. it doesnt act like it is doing anything. i took it back apart and there doesnt seem to be anything blocking the arm movement. is it protected by a fuse or anything that might be blown? i dont see a fuse for the wipers anywhere, but that is what it acts like.
  • 4rider4rider Posts: 96
    I see most of the BL pucks can be easily slip on top of the existing one except the 2 near rear wheel wells. Is there a trick to get to these two? I coult not find an easy way to do those two. Just thinkng about the possbility of a economic lift with 2"BB + 1" BL.

    Also, it may sound like a stupid question, but is there a risk of having the spring pop out when the sway bar is disconnected and the wheel is articulated to the extreme position? I am not sure there is 1 or more spring retainer in the front for securing the spring. If I am not mistaken, there is none in the back. Does this mean you can't disconect the rear sway bar at all to avoid the problem?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    To answer your BL question, yes those 2 by the fuel tank are a PAIN to get to. Basically you have to jack up the tub (I did this using my hilift jack and my rock sliders as my lift point). Get it up high enough to reach in and put the pucks in and line them up. I hated sticking my hand in there, but I had my wife standing by should something bad happen.

    Having a helper there is good because you can have them reach up with the bolt and you can start threading it right away, since they have those nuts that can slide around a bit.

    As for the spring popping out, yes it can be a problem IF your axle droops too far. Between the bumpstops, shock length, and the spring retainer clips, everything should be fine unless you installed a shock with too long of travel. You can fix this by installing limiting straps. In back, since you don't disconnect the rear sway bar (It gets VERY squirelly if you do), it isn't an issue.

    However with a 2" BB and 1" BL, you should have no problems.

    There is a writeup for the JKS body lift at that covers the process for a typical body lift.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Yes, there is a fuse for it. Check your manual for the location. I have FSM's for 97 and 98, so if you have one of those, I can help you find it.

    What year is your TJ?

    For example, fuse 17 is the wiper fuse in a 2004. Your manual should have that information and it should be printed on the fuse block behind your glove box.

    There are also some relays in the PDC in front of the battery that may affect it, but if it is only the wipers not working, I'd check the fuse behind the glovebox.

  • 4rider4rider Posts: 96
    Great advice Paul. I will make sure not to get a wrong shcok that is too long if I want to get a replacement
  • thanks for the info and now trying to decide if i need the JKS Motor Mount Lift for my Unlimited to go with the OME and 1" JKS BL. Also, would an adjustable track bar be necessary. I want to do it right but not spend too much $$$.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    The MML makes things easier. With the Unlimited, you are far less likely to have the vibes an OME lift COULD create (it created driveline vibes on my SWB TJ). But if you do not do the MML, you will need to modify your fan shroud so it isn't struck by the fan when engine is in operation.

    The BL/MML combo is VERY popular to do at the same time, but it is NOT required to do both. Your call.

    As for the adj track bar, I did NOT get it initially when I did the lift. You will be okay without it, but your axle will be shifted towards the driver side a BIT, which could cause rubbing when turning. My budget just didn't allow for it at the time.

    However, I added the JKS adj front TB late last year and the rear trackbar early this year (I had problems with the trackbar bracket staying on - MY FAULT).

    Looking back, I wish I had just gotten DPGOffroad's ultimate kit, as that is basically what I'm running now - I just installed it over the course of 18 months, bit by bit. :)

  • Update:

    I checked with parts house and they are still waiting on the 2 rear springs from OME which should be in by mid next week. Im scheduled to drop off the jeep on April 6 for the install.

    I ordered the JKS BL and MML as a combo sale for $179 free shipping from the 4x4rockshop friday. Im hoping to get it this coming week so I can install it next weekend before the OME suspension system.

    Just crossing my fingers no Vibes.
  • unlimitjunlimitj Posts: 19
    With the Unlimited, you don't have to worry about Vibes with the OME kit. The 2.5" springs are just about a perfect addition of ride height and quality without compromising any of your geometry.
    The JKS is even supposed to make the driveline angles better, so the odds are very slim that you'll have anything but a great ride, on road and off.
    Good choice going with the JKS combo. Let us know what you think once everything is in.
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