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Jeep Wrangler

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  • td1964td1964 Posts: 1
    heat and a/c works great, but when i switch selector to defrost air circulates fine thru all areas except windshield top vents. i can see the metal piece and black plastic cylinder (like a cigarette ) by my knee move but still no air get thru the windshield defroster. this seems common for 97 according to other messages, but is there anything i can do before taking to the dealership? also, thought it might be the vent lever and i could replace that to see if it fixes it?

    thanks for your help
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    .....but is there anything i can do before taking to the dealership?

    Your problem is that the defroster door, which diverts air inside the HVAC unit up to the windshield, isn't moving even though the external mechanism seems to be functioning ok.
    What has actually happened is that the connection to the door (which is made of a brittle plastic) has broken internally.

    Unfortunately, not only was the door never made available separately, but the upper housing (part #4864 945) of which it is a part appears to be no longer available.
    I have seen aftermarket kits on eBay that claim to fix the problem but I've never used one.

    Some people live with it, some people hunt down a used HVAC unit and cannibalize or install it complete, others permanently fix the door in position with a wire hooked into it from above.

    I'd be interested to hear what your dealer says.
  • Picked up Blue Rubi yesterday. Our sales lady had four wranglers on order. Only ours was made before the shutdown. Three customers cancelled because of the shutdown caused by the money boys. You three and others have our sympathy. Better_Half got a little teary eyed as she found our build sheet with dates of 4/27 and 4/28 and wondered what the assembly line workers were going through and what would happen a few days later. I have experienced the closing doors more than once up north. This is the fourth time a Chrysler product was tried (1967,1977, 2005) and hopefully it will be successful this time. Right now it feels better than the last attempt with the CRD. It's a jeep thing, and so far, much better than expected.
  • james1bojames1bo Posts: 1
    Trying to diagnose a 2002 Wrangler with the 4.0 engine. Issue is a tapping noise which is audible throughout the engine compartment. It more pronounced in the front of the engine. or from under the valve cover,,, but I believe that the 4.0 has solid lifters??? Possibly the serpentine Belt Tensioner??? Has 90K original on it....
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It more pronounced in the front of the engine. or from under the valve cover,,, but I believe that the 4.0 has solid lifters?

    No, hydraulic. That noise is not uncommon and is most likely a lifter or a fuel injector.
  • What is it with jeeps and gear lube. Our CRD had an aluminum front dif with clean lube from the factory. Trailer hitch pkg and the rear dif had dirty dino. Fast forward to 2009 Rubicon. First hot day after ownership and she burped gear lube from the vent down and over the axle tube. Redline arrived today. Front dif poured lube out of the fill hole but was relatively brand new synthetic. Now the rear dif, again trailer pkg, and ditto dirty dino. Go figure.

    A hummer forum was commenting about even the mighty front d44 can be broken. We all know about the cracked axle tubes. There are preventatives for those who have to have lifts, 35's and higher and see how far they can go with their bf's before they break something. But with the jk you don't have to engineer anything, others have already figured it out.

    Want to thank those with H's and JK's who break things so the rest of us know the limits and what to do if we care to follow. However, for a few more dollars than the GM extended short warranty and high deductible, we got the smallest deductible (not zero) and lifetime max warranty. If Blue Rubi doesn't get busted up, we can continue to drive it anytime anywhere without the worry about years and miles. I will give it the best that is appropriate like Valvoline Syn no sooner than at 5k miles on the odometer. Good lubes and then enjoy the ride. Only changes have been the mopar 7pin trailer wiring kit (dealership installed and four pin harness in my new parts bin) and a rock hard cannister armor from the dealer (They ordered it to have a look at it and I bought it as soon as it came in.)

    1400 miles now and valvoline dino and redline gear lube and no water leaks and continue to have that sports car fun feeling. Yes, doing the wave and like one of the screamin lizard's said, do the wave and if they don't wave back so what. Only problem is that there seems to be a lot of jk's tj's etc out here lately and some days the arm and hand get a workout.
  • devo3386devo3386 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to prgram the keyless entry so that:

    1. The horn does not sound when the car is locked.
    2. The headlights do not turn on when the car is unlocked.

    Thanks.
  • I took a 2009 Jeep Wrangler X 4WD SUV out of the dealership the other day and drove it all around Baltimore. I owned a Jeep Sport from 2000-2003. My next car will be a Jeep Wrangler. I want to get involved in off roading. What are some of the first steps to take to make the wrangler off-road ready?

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  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    My next car will be a Jeep Wrangler.

    It's not a car. ;)

    What are some of the first steps to take to make the wrangler off-road ready?

    It's already offroad ready, and with all due respect, a lot more so than you probably are or you wouldn't be asking.

    Much depends on what you want to do and over what type of terrain. Even on fairly mild trails the learning curve can be pretty steep. Do remember that bigger tires and a lifted suspension may improve the Jeep's capabilities offroad (though with trade-offs on the highway), but they won't improve your driving skills at all. In fact they usually just enable you to get stuck or to fall over in a more dramatic way!

    Your first purchases should be a fire extinguisher, tow strap, and First Aid kit, and don't go offroad with them on your own (it's tough using that tow strap without another vehicle to attach it to :cry: ).

    Next, think about improved underbody protection; skid plates, rocker protection, stronger bumpers, etc.
    Finally, if you want a nice toy to bolt on, you might think about a winch. However, initially you'll probably only use it to pull your buddy out. Until you really know what you're doing, you rarely want to pull yourself deeper into whatever got you stuck.
    Remember that he best winch for your recovery is almost always attached to the vehicle behind you. :)
  • jptjjptj Posts: 53
    My 98 TJ (Eugene) turned over the 300k mark today. I have replace or repaired (other than regular maintenance brakes, plugs, etc.) Are the Rotors, Radiator, A/C leak/Compressor, Alternator @250K (Mac you called this one) and the Rear Transmission seal.
    Life is good,
    Walt :)
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    For Wranglers that are well maintained and driven with understanding that's not unusual.
    I normally say 150 - 250K miles before even needing to think about an engine overhaul; 300K is excellent.

    Congratulations, what a value! :)
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Okay, I"ve adjusted my steering gear a bit, but it is still loose. With Dan likely driving this for a while, I want to make sure the steering is up to par.

    What are my options for a decent repair w/o breaking the bank? 98 Durango steering box seems like my best bet (with or without snow plow option - affects turns to lock) or is there something else I can do? I THINK I can get one from Adv Auto for about 188 with 125 core.

    Keep in mind I'm trying to keep this somewhat reasonable in price.

    Mac, any input?

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    When you can't adjust it any more it's time for a rebuild or replacement. :sick:
    You can rebuild it yourself, but parts can be a problem.

    NAPA, Advance, Autozone will be the best price option for an exchange unit and are all around the same price at a little under $200, with the Snow Plough option being another $50 or so.
    Core charges vary but are immaterial unless you intend to keep you original box.

    I suppose you could look for something secondhand, but steering and brakes are something I prefer to go new on.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I was looking at the PSC SG621M. Basically a beefier version of a Durango box with a Hummer H1 housing. Also looking at the AGR SB2 as possible options. Most AdvAuto and such boxes are remanufactured, so I was hesitant about that crap shoot. The PSC is 345 from Q-tec so about double the price.

    Since my son will be driving it for a while around town, I want the steering fixed (a bit too loose now).

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    A PSC SG621M should last you virtually for ever with your setup and is obviously the ultimate of the options you list. I don't have any direct experience of it except in the H1, where it's adequate for the application though not over specified.
    If you go that route you might want to get it ported with blanking plugs in case you ever want to go with cylinder assist in the future.

    I've heard about too many problems with AGR to want to recommend them, though to be fair it's mainly been with their modified pumps.

    Reman vs new? In theory new should be better but I've had and seen mixed experiences of good and bad with both. If you think that new components will always be better, ask yourself why new cars come with a warranty. ;)

    Best value would probably be the Durango Snow unit if you can return your old box as the core.

    I understand what you say about your son driving, but the steering and braking should really be 100% regardless of who's in the left seat.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Mac I hear on the 100% thing. I'm just used to how it drives. He's not. If it were me as the only driver, I wouldn't be AS concerned. Your comments are the first I've heard about AGR being a possible problem.

    PSC makes the SG621MR with the ports for hydro assist, but I don't plan on going that route with this TJ. 33's is it with moderate wheeling.

    The Durango with snow option is 165 from AdvAuto (with core). The PSC is 335 shipped to my door from a 4x4 shop. Do you think it'll hold up sufficiently with 33x12.5's for onroad and offroad use and give me back responsive steering and minimized that dead spot in the middle? THAT is ultimately what I'm trying to take care of. When I have to make a huge steering adjustment just to keep the TJ straight or to follow a slight bend in the road, something ain't right.

    I trust your word on these kinds of things and if you think a reman unit will work for my needs, then I'll trust it. If I get one and it sucks, I'll return with the lifetime warranty and go for a PSC.

    The brakes I'm not worried about. I can lock them up if I need to, but the 2.5L is slow enough that it isn't a concern! ;)

    I have checked the linkages in the components underneath and they are all rock solid (JKS trackbar and ZJ tierod (new ends) and NO undue motion in ANY joint).

    -Paul
  • elbbirpelbbirp Posts: 2
    This may be too basic of a question for this forum, but I'm in the process of replacing a cracked cylinder head, and decided to remove the oil pan first and check some bearings to see if they have been damaged by running with coolant in the oil. On my 2000 the exhaust wraps around the rear shallow part of the oil pan, so I proceeded to take the exhaust pipe connections loose from the exhaust manifold. This is where I'm stuck. I'm by no means a mechanic, but turned quite a few wrenches in my younger days, but it has been awhile. The exhaust pipe flanges are held on with 2 bolts that thread into 2 nuts on the back side of the flange. The nuts are some sort of flange nuts with a plate welded to the nut. The plate contacts the exhaust manifold when you turn the bolt, holding the nut stationary in order to remove the bolt. The problem I'm having is that after getting the bolts loose, the nut can ride up to a spot where the plate is free of the exhaust manifold, and turns freely when you try to loosen the bolt further. The spot welds on the nut prevent getting any sort of good bite on the nut with a wrench. Has anyone had the same problem? Do you have any secrets to disassembly, other than cutting torch?
    Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I trust your word on these kinds of things and if you think a reman unit will work for my needs, then I'll trust it.

    Ah, you're trying to put me on the spot! :P

    1: Any of the choices even a standard TJ unit, if properly built, will give responsive steering with no central dead spot
    2: For a small improvement in performance and minimal cost the reman Dakota SP box is probably the best short term value.
    3: The PSC would be my choice because it's overbuilt for a standard or minimally modified Jeep, and I'll be keeping mine forever.

    However, my choices may not be the best for you, and it would also be possible to get a perfect reman from Advance and bad unit from PSC (and vice versa), so there's no perfect solution..

    If you have five minutes to spare take a look at this AMG promo to see the kind of loads and stresses the PSC box is expected to withstand.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Do you have any secrets to disassembly, other than cutting torch?

    I don't remember having that problem but can't you either push or pull the nut/flange assembly back down to the point where the flange will catch again and allow you to continue undoing the bolt?
    Alternatively, is it possible to jamb the nut with a screwdriver/chisel/small rodent?
    Just about anything would work as long as it's not your finger. ;)
    Final option is to cut the bolts and spring for a pair of new ones. You should be able to salvage the nuts after removal.

    Have fun removing the pan, it's a fiddly job. It'll be easier if you raise the engine by releasing the mounts and inserting a couple of small wood blocks to support it.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Not trying to put you on the spot. Your posts show you know your stuff. :)

    Any more information on the Dakota SP box? Define short term value. :)

    I plan to keep this thing for a while longer, even with the mileage it currently has.

    Any plans to get rid of your H1? Would love to see more pics of it. My wife is still wanting one of those originals. :) She wants to run over people.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Any more information on the Dakota SP box? Define short term value.

    I think heavier duty and different valving than the standard Durango box. However, do bear in mind that when you read a post about how someone replaced their original box with a Durango one and it gave a fantastic improvement, that's usually because the original box was knackered and an OE replacement would probably have given the same result.
    You often see similar posts relating to spark plugs, air filters, brake pads etc. Replace a worn out original with almost anything new and you'll see the same result.

    In regard to short term value I was just comparing it in price and anticipated longevity to the PSC unit.

    I plan to keep the H1 as long as the Jeep, i.e. until I'm too feeble to maintain and drive it any more. :sick:

    Here's a pic after playing in some Florida mud. :)

    image
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    You, sir, SUCK!

    Looks like fun.

    I went and looked at my linkages which I KNEW to be good, but checked anyway. I found something. My driver side tie rod end was WAY loose. Cotter pin was still there, so I'm thinking I never tightened it down completely. D'OH!!!

    I tightened it down well, repinned it and am currently driving it. In the process I re-centered the steering wheel too. Had a fellow Jeep owner drive it and get his impressions (without me saying anything - just asked opinion of steering), and he said it drives just like his. I think I'll hold off on my steering box replacement and keep kicking myself for not checking the links sooner.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    You, sir, SUCK!
    Looks like fun.


    Oh it is, though not so much the next day when you have to clean it. :(

    I went and looked at my linkages which I KNEW to be good, but checked anyway. I found something. My driver side tie rod end was WAY loose. Cotter pin was still there, so I'm thinking I never tightened it down completely.............................I think I'll hold off on my steering box replacement and keep kicking myself for not checking the links sooner.

    Well, rather than kick yourself maybe you need to re-evaluate the way you check the steering joints.
    By far the easiest is to have a helper smoothly rotate the steering wheel half a turn from side to side (with the engine running, parking brake on, and the vehicle on a hard surface), while you lay at the front and study each joint through the full range of movement. Any wear or loosness will be very evident.

    Also, you might want to check to see if you've over adjusted the steering box in your previous effort to eliminate the play that turned out to be the loose joint.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Yeah, cleaning isn't so much fun, but it does give you time to look things over.

    Your method for checking linkages is exactly how I did it this weekend to find the problem. I THOUGHT I did that before, but apparently I missed something. Believe me, a LONG, DETAILED mental note was made.

    The adjustments I made on the steering box were done before I put the new tie rod on. It returns to center just like it should and there is no binding in the steering, so while the gears ARE wearing, the box seems to feel about right at this time. If it starts getting sloppy again, a steering linkage check will again occur, along with tightening any loose ones, recheck, then likely a new box.

    -Paul
  • kufukufu Posts: 14
    JCWhitney.com sell Black 3" Diameter Side Step Rails for total 143.98 Price is to good to pass it up. I allready ordered.
  • My jeep is making this clatter, I belive its valve related, but before I tear into it want to see if its experanced by other...mainly at idle, and not the injectors , sure they make a click but not that type..
    I have 94000 original miles, use good oil, all gets change on regular basis, carries about 44 lbs pressure at idle, no miss, no shake just sounds like a diesel engine..
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    My jeep is making this clatter, I belive its valve related, but before I tear into it want to see if its experanced by other...mainly at idle, and not the injectors , sure they make a click but not that type..

    Good description of a sticking cam follower(s).
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I'm thinking the torque in 4L could be impressive....

    Diesel Jeep Wrangler Coming in 4th Quarter 2010 (Straightline)

    image
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I'm thinking the torque in 4L could be impressive....

    It all depends on which engine they use. Certainly the potential is there, but look how wrong they got it with the Liberty
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Note that I assumed that Jeep still offers a 4L like they did in my '74 CJ-5. :)

    The Liberty CRD ... well that was a whole can of worms it sounds like.
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