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Jeep Wrangler



  • daddybdaddyb Posts: 1
    recently had an engine fire on my 1990 YJ, 4.2. got the replacement harness and have it 90% installed but have run into a bit of a snag. there are 2 connections bolted to the fire wall just below and slightly to the side of the battery tray. I am looking to find some pictures of the firewall area that show these items so I can go to the parts store and refer to them to buy new ones. any idea where I can find pictures/ diagrams of this area and or wiring schematics? they appear to be some sort of a relay and / grounding block.
  • I have the nav/radio in my 2010 wrangler. In the top far right corner there is an icon that looks like 3 cars stacked together. It usually is green. This weekend it turned amber.

    Anyone know what it represents; and why it changed colors? I cannot find any reference to it anywhere. Everything still works fine. It's just a curiosity.

  • Just found out that the stacked car icon in the top right corner represents Sirius Traffic subscription status. Green = active, Amber = not active.

    I had renewed my Sirius subscription, but dropped the traffic provision.

    Mystery solved by my dealer's service writer.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Posts: 710
    edited October 2010
    Yes, replying to myself. Take it for what it is.
    Started back on other forums from the beginning of JK posts.
    February 2007 a poster, paraphrasing, explained his taping of the bottom of the cowling and the fingers of the plastic grid in the firewall. Other posts mentioned thank you big time squeek was driving them nuts. And then a remark that it took away 98% of the squeek. Posts continued in same thread into 2008 and more thanks. One post mentioned their squeek was the a/c lines going into the firewall, kinda like heater lines going thru the firewall on the H3's.

    Spent way too much time to get it right, almost as bad as a crd problem. Second attempt was strong double sided adhesive on grey replacement squares for some old furniture glides/bottoms. Squeek gone again for 98%. Bought gm body plastic rivets from pepboy's and o'reilly's for those mopar push pins after buying a box of those pushpins from pepboys.

    April 2009 build and got the squeek. First builds had the squeek.
    Today realized that the foam had lifted up the plastic grill with the 1st and 2nd attempt and noticed that the grill was in tension because the wiper motor top was cutting into three cross grids on the plastic grill. Snipped those out but still had that elusive 2% squeek. It was the a/c lines going thru the firewall. Had noticed the powder was rubbed off the a/c line and the hood heat pad was being worn.

    23K+ miles and front has been feeling not as solid/clunky running I-35, today feels like that steering shaft clunk. Guess I should've shoved grease inside of the boot or wait for what one poster said fixed him for now, "a new shaft and a bearing". Maybe wait for that aftermarket fix.

    On a side note, noticed in car and driver for november (one of those almost give away subscriptions), they compared the new jeep to three other vehicles. To me looking at 0-60 times, allowing for its extra weight over the competition, the jeep didn't seem to reflect a hemi under the hood (but the gas mileage did). Even though it won, they would buy the toyota.
  • I am in the market for a Jeep Wrangler/CJ....etc as a secondary weekend vehicle. Any suggestions for what I could get for $5,000? Are there some that are easier to repair than others? Should I get the newest possible or is it all about millage? Basically, if you were me, what would you buy? Thanks.

    - Will
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The TJ arrived in 1997 and by the 1998.5 model year most of the bugs had been worked out. It's easily identified by the HVAC controls which are rotary, compared to the earlier cable operated slide action.

    Look for anything from '98.5 onward in as close to original condition as possible, and that hasn't been heavily offroaded. Choosing the 4.0 I6 over the 2.5 I4 is a no brainer as they both get similar mileage and the 4.0 can be expected to live to at least 200K miles.

    The earlier YJ and CJ models are harder to find parts for and are more rust prone than the TJ, but the biggest difference is the suspension, leaf springs on the YJ and CJ, coils on the TJ. The difference is night and day.

    Good luck.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    If you live in or near DC and have had fuel spitback issues with your car, please email [email protected] before Monday, February 28, 2011 to be interviewed by a reporter. Please include your daytime contact information and the year, make and model of your car.
  • 98 Wrangler with 153,000 miles, stock suspension. I put a set of basic NAPA shocks on it and they were no better than the worn out factory ones I took off. It is strictly a street vehicle, mostly around town, some highway. I have always heard Bilsteins were the best, but I sort of hate to buy such expensive shocks for a high mileage Jeep. Any brand anyone can recommend that is cheaper than Bilstein but is still a good shock? I did a search of this and maintenance and repair forum and did not find recommendations. Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Either you had a faulty set of NAPA shocks or your originals weren't as worn out as you thought they were. ;)

    I've been very happy with the OME (Old Man Emu) shocks that I fitted to my '99 over 100K miles ago. Still going strong!
  • Mac24 is the pro so I would listen to him, but my take is: I replaced my shocks w/ Bilsteins, and they were fine, but what *really* made the difference was replacing my OEM steering stabilizer w/ a Rancho Steering Stabilizer. Made all the difference in the world in handling. And it was pretty affordable too ($75?).


  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I love my OME's as well. Mine sees offroad action, but the onroad handling is very nice!

  • just bought a 97 wrangler. Brought it hime and the check engine light came on the next day. Then the airbag light came on, hmmmm. Then the whole instrument panel went first RPM, then MPH, finally the whole shabang except the odemeter. My guess is that in the detailing of the vehicle someone got a little over excited with the pressure washer and got water where water has difficulty getting to. i had shut off the truck and later turned it on. Alls back to normal except the check engine light. It runs a little rough and is fairly gutless going up hills. checked the oil and some 13 year old filled it over. my guess is this does not help with gutless problem.
    Would love to here more from the pros. ThanX
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The light indicates that the PCM is holding one or more trouble codes.
    The codes on the '97 are a little different to later models, but are displayed by flashing of the MIL and can also be read from the odometer. Read the code/s and post them here.

    To determine which Diagnostic Trouble Code(s) are stored in the PCM of your '97 TJ:
    Turn the ignition key to the "On" position three times in succession (i.e., On, Off, On, Off, On), within five seconds
    The Malfunction Indicator (Check Engine) Lamp will flash the appropriate number of times to indicate the DTC number, with a short pause between the first and second digits (e.g., 2 flashes of the MIL, followed by a short pause, followed by 5 more flashes, indicates error code 25)
    The appropriate DTC will also be displayed in the odometer window
    Note: All DTCs consist of 2 digits. If more than one DTC is stored in the PCM's memory, the procedure above will display all codes in succession. Regardless of how many codes are stored, Code 55 will always be the final code to be displayed. Code 55 indicates the "completion of the fault code display on the Check Engine Lamp".
  • redrocker15redrocker15 Posts: 102
    I have been terribly reticent in my posting/lurking here. this has been one of the most fabulous groups of Wrangler owners ever! Mtngal? TSJay? Mac24 & ericPL (thanks to God you're both still active here!). I've not owned a Wrangler since I let my '98SE go to a neighbor's friend; but those Wrangerless days are numbered! I do recall all the fun posts we shared in days of yore, and Mac & Eric's (OK, and Tom's) words of wisdom. I shall return! With a replacement Wrangler! I sooooooo miss Eugene!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Glad you're still around and haven't lost your Wrangler lust, even if you don't currently own one.

    If you've been lurking I expect you remember how the forum was changed some time ago from a loose knit discussion under the one heading 'Jeep Wrangler', to a whole bunch of separate threads, one for each question that was asked.
    The camaradarie and chat have gone, along with many of the regular posters, and it's now just a Q&A forum.
    Ericpl and I are the only ones from the past that appear with any regularity; in fact we're the only ones that appear with any regularity period!

    To be honest I mostly come here to answer questions just to keep my knowledge fresh, a 'use it or lose it' attitude; it used to be fun, now it's just mental exercise.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Yep, sure is good to be regular!

    Wait, that didn't sound right!

    I still have Kermit, but he has gone through a few changes over the years when I bought it at Edwards AFB in 2003. Gas prices are making it tough, but fortunately, there's a GREAT OHV area about 1 hr from my house. The places Extreme 4x4 uses for their show are also an hour away.

    With my Master's program done (YAY!), I now have more time to work on the Jeep. Now if it would only warm up a bit more and not have severe storms every other day, I'd be happy!

    Mac is, by far, still the expert, but Kermit has given me challenges and work to do! Kermit is, after all, 14 years old (97 TJ SE).

  • Was going to let my cheap magazine subscriptions lapse, but.
    Don't remember and didn't write anything down. Petersens, Off-road, (JP?).
    One mag has new glossy thick pages.

    Remembered reading (letter to ed?) about 5x5.5 wheel nut pattern and hard to find wheels.
    Then read about the J8 military wrangler using that pattern.

    Remembered reading about CJD unitbearings versus ones used by GM and Ford. Apparently the CJD failure can result in wheel coming off the vehicle, like Liberty ball joint failure. Again, in this J8 write-up they mention an improved unitbearing that keeps the wheel on the vehicle.

    Always wondered why the wrangler doesn't follow the wheel:tire height off roaders ratio suggestion. Just thought most? JK's had small sidewalls for us on the interstate who keep up with the big boys. Then the J8 story went on to say the J8 had improved calipers that required going to a seventeen inch wheel.

    The mags were bought cheap. Should opt for the online version. Renewals are coming constantly in the mail and by email. Guess I'll throw my pennies at them to keep their advertising revenues.
  • Ok, I have a 2001 Wrangler Sport, 4.0L, 6cyl, Automatic , 130K miles

    This is what it's doing...

    Crank it up in the morning and I usually let it warm up for a few minutes. Put it in reverse, back up , brake and shift to Drive, let off of the brake and it either dies or jumps and struggles to go. And while going into 2nd gear you can hear it kind of rev*(sp) up high and then it goes on into 3rd gear as you gain speed ,but once you get onto the highway and continue at the normal speed (55+) for a while its fine.

    Next, during the first 10-15 minutes of driving. You come to a red light, so holding the break while at the red light . It will start jumping , as if it's trying to go on its on. But after driving for say, 20+ minutes it won't do that.

    Also, sometimes when making a turn , lets just say onto another street (regular 90 degree turn ) you can hear it kind of rev up when straightening back up out of the turn . It's like it kind of hesitates in mid turn.

    And after driving it for a while it wont do it when you crank it back up and go again. (Warmed up I suppose)

    Also, the engine light has periodically come on and gone off over the last 4 years.

    It has mostly been sitting for the past 1 1/2 -2 years as I am driving a different vehicle. And I have not taken it anywhere to have it checked on either. But it has been doing this for the past 3 years , so the sitting up part has nothing to do with it.

    Any information , thoughts , insight would really help me out!!
  • My beloved Ruby threw a rod this last weekend with 190K miles on it.


    It has a soft top with full basket cargo rack.

    I was looking to sell it to someone as a project or parts car.

    Any suggestions as to value. Overall, it's in good shape.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Also, the engine light has periodically come on and gone off over the last 4 years.

    Have the computer codes read, which should help in starting to diagnose the problems.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    edited March 2011
    Any suggestions as to value. Overall, it's in good shape.

    If you were soflshane I'd come and take a look!

    As a rule of thumb, it'll be worth what it normally would be in your part of the country, less [(the cost of a replacement engine or long block) + (the cost of the labor to install it) + ( 10-20% of the total)].
  • william07william07 Posts: 4
    edited May 2011
    I've been doing a lot of reading about the Jeep Wrangler over the past few months. I've been wanting a Wrangler for years and I'm finally at the point where I can buy me one.

    But I am just awestruck at all of the negative information I have found on various blogs/forums. I'm awestruck because if it's all true then I can't believe Chrysler doesn't address the issues.

    I read about owners getting 3 and 4 transmissions in less than 50K miles. I read about sway bars going out. I read about sensors constantly going out. I read about transmissions overheating. I read about 100s of recalls on them. I mean really the list is just endless. It's as if the Wrangler is some kind of piece of junk!

    Can someone here possibly give me an honest assessment of the Wrangler? Is this vehicle truly as sorry as I keep reading? FOR EX: Are my odds of having to replace the transmission multiple times really as high as I keep reading? Are these maintenance issues I read about -- if they are even all true -- due to off-roading abuse or is it just a very poor Chrysler product? Also does putting lift kits and wide tires cause the problems OR are the problems (again, if they exist) just inherent in the Wrangler no matter what?

    I'd just like to know the honest story about the Wrangler's mechanical reliability before sinking money into one. My use for this vehicle will be mostly highway (yes I know about its horrific gas mileage) and the only time it'll be off road will be to pull my jonboat to a boat ramp for offloading at a lake.
  • jdr818jdr818 Posts: 7
    I can only tell you about my experience with my 2001 Wrangler SE which I bought new. I have to say I'm surprised about all the negative reports as well. Quite honestly, it's been the most reliable car I've ever owned.

    I have had two additional radiators installed (my mechanic told me that these days, aftermarket radiators are largely plastic so they don't last - I verified this with some of my own research afterwards). Other than this, I've done NOTHING major to it. The usual brakes, shocks, tires.

    I also have a friend with another 2001 which he bought used a few years ago. He hasn't had any major problems with it other than what he expected due to the large amount of off-roading he does.

    Perhaps you should look for an older model year Wrangler?

    Good luck!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The model prior to the current JK, the TJ model, was probably the best designed and best built Wrangler ever made.
    It was at the end of the TJ production that Chrysler and the other big auto companies started to have huge financial issues.
    In Chrysler's case it ended with the company being bought out by Cerebus along with other investors in '07.

    The whole company was massively reorganized and the Chrysler Jeep that builds Wranglers now is very different to the old one.
    While not perfect, the previous TJ design was a good one, early teething troubles were ironed out in the first year and a half, and quality control was by and large very good.

    However IMO, the JK has a flawed design which allows some vehicles to experience 'death wobble' straight from the showroom floor.
    There have been huge problems with leaking hardtops which have basically been ignored by Jeep, leaving it to dealers to try to fix it however they thought best.
    Quality control on the manual transmissions can be described as horrible at best.

    The latest JKs look pretty, and are loaded with all the electronic systems you could imagine, but with the basic design and QC as it is, it counts for little.

    My TJ Sahara is 12 years old, and if the current JK lived up to the promise of its appearance and specification I'd trade up in a heartbeat.

    However, my TJ has never been off the road due to a breakdown. It's serviced by the book and apart from a new radiator, any parts requiring replacement (a seal, a bearing, a wheel cylinder etc.) have all been minor.

    Looks like I'll be driving the TJ for a few more years yet. :)

    That said, not all JKs are lemons, and of course you do have a warranty, just go in with your eyes open if you do decide to buy one.
  • btill1btill1 Posts: 69
    I purchased a new 2010 in March of 2010 it is a little over 1 year old. I use it as a third car so it has about 11,500 miles on it currently. I have had zero problems with it and it was amazing in the snow of the northeast this year. Good luck with your decision.
  • william07william07 Posts: 4
    jdr818- interesting about the older model year wrangler suggestion. I've had a bunch of people tell me I should look for a 4.0L engine model.
  • william07william07 Posts: 4
    mac24 - Interesting thoughts on Cerebus. I had forgotten about that. And the interesting thing is it seems the 2007-2009 models are the worst in terms of mechanical issues I've read about. Though I have read some 2010 models being bad too. The transmission seems to be the monster issue. Which seems insane to me because it's not like a transmission is some new technological device they've added on.

    Do you think the Wrangler's automatic transmission is better built and more reliable?

    Also do you think the off-road abuse is a major contributor to these issues or is it just poor QC? I just want to know if I treat the vehicle better (do the required maint and not abuse it off-road) if it'll hold up better. But if I'm going to be replacing transmissions every 6K even if I'm treating it right then I will have to definitely change my mind about my purchase.
  • william07william07 Posts: 4
    btill1- do you have a manual or an automatic? Just curious.

    Seems like people who have a bad one seem to have a bad one right out the gate of the dealer. And the ones who have a good one seem to have a tank that won't stop. What im trying to figure out is how many are falling in each respective group because if 3 or 4 out of 5 Wranglers have serious issues then that's too high.

    Also did you put bigger tires/lift kit on yours?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The ATs certainly have fewer issues than the manuals.
    However, the manuals aren't a bad design, far from it.
    When you get a vehicle that has serial transmission failures in quick succession it's either a QC issue or an operator problem.

    When it comes to 'death wobble' and leaking hardtops though, the occurances are so numerous that it can't palmed off on QC, it's absolutely a design issue.

    If you want the best chance of reliable Wrangler, I'd look for a low mileage, late model, properly serviced, 4.0 TJ street queen in original trim.

    If you want a JK, I'd go for an automatic soft top with a reputable extended warranty.
  • busman01busman01 Posts: 46
    edited May 2011
    I purchased my 2010 Sahara new in Sept 2010. The only problem I had was with the transmission popping out of 1st gear.

    The dealer replaced the 1st gear synchronizer per a TSB and I haven't had a problem since.

    I upsized the tires on the original wheels and have never experienced the "wobble".

    After nearly two years of rain and washes, my hardtop has never leaked. The nav/sat/radio is great. I recommend the heated seats for really cold days.

    Overall, no complaints. The Jeep performs as only a Jeep can.

    I have all the bells and whistles and everything performs flawlessly.

    I would purchase another one
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