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Tahoe Coolant ALWAYS gone!
I've been having this problem for awhile now. I have a 99 Chevy Tahoe 2-Dr and it's been working fine EXCEPT for one problem, the coolant. I purchased 2 bottles already in the last 2 months. How long is coolant supposed to last? Also why does it go away so fast?
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If you have put "2 bottles" of coolant into the system in the past two months and you still cannot see it in the holding tank....I think you still have a problem. Does the word "bottles" refer to the one gallon containers that coolant usually is sold in? If you have put two gallons more into the system it is certainly going somewhere. I don't understand how the tech could say there is no problem if you can see coolant leaking out under the vehicle.
It's hopefully leaking out (water pump shaft, hose fitting, cracked overflow tank, etc), or you may have a problem where your engine head gasket blew out and it's sucking coolant into an engine cylinder and out the exhaust pipe (not a good thing to have water in the engine).
You've got to quickly find the leak. If you don't find it externally to the engine, then I'd take the engine to have a compression test done on all the cylinders.
Could also be leaking from the heater core (carpet wet by any chance front passenger), or rear aux.
If you have to have your intake gaskets replaced, don't use GM but the better FelPro gaskets if you want reliability.
Any suggestions? I like this idea of putting the Bar's Leak in...
I have a 2003 Yukon XL and had been putting a gallon of coolant mix in every month. Took it to the shop and they pressure tested it and couldn't find anything wrong. I did some more research and found that it can often be a gasket in the water pump - took it back in, and that was it. Same labor to replace the pump as to just do the gasket, so $450 later and everything appears to be hunky dory.
Here's more information.
Doing a pressure test with the spark plugs out (thereby allowing the coolant to pass into the cylinder if a bad head gasket), may have helped find the problem.
But you shouldn't automatically jump in and have this done without some further diagnostics to confirm that is the problem. Trying to remotely diagnose problems, using third party reported symptoms and sounds, is risky at best. Nothing beats hands on by skilled/competent mechanics.
- rust the cylinder walls, so they're not smooth anymore, causing burning oil, poor compression, poor gas mileage, rust on the valves, etc
- seep past the piston rings, and into the oil, causing similar corrosion damage in the engine, bearings to fail, major engine failure, etc
- get blown out the exhaust, ruining that expensive catalytic converter.
If the coolant was just leaking outside, like from the radiator or water pump bearing, then technically the water does no damage......just be sure to keep coolant to keep the engine from overheating and damaging engine. If the coolant is leaking inside the engine, then major problems, get it fixed pronto.
If they pressure test the cooling system with the spark plugs out as I indicated before, then you may detect more easily the drop in coolant pressure as it's leaking into the piston area. This allows the air and coolant someplace to exit, as opposed to being restricted by a closed piston chamber. A gasket problem may not necessarily show up this way, but if it does show.... you know for sure that the gasket is bad.
Head gaskets, fuel pumps, cluster gauge problems, and transmission problems.....all some common problems, unfortunately.