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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • Is what you are referring to the 100,000 mile drive-train warranty? I began having problems at 20,000 mi. they replaced the torque converter, then, another Ford dealer said that Ford said it should have the fluid replaced, they did. It still shudders hard at 1500 RPMs and now does a small "bump" sound every so often.

    I would like to be armed when I go to them again. I am right at 90,000 miles
  • There was a recall on my 2002 for a sticky throttle cable.
  • The tape solved my problem.
  • I have a 2002 escape and every time it rains real hard or there is alot of moisture in the air, it will crank but will not turn over. if you crank it 4 or 5 times it eventually will start. I have talked to a mechanic about this, and he said there is moisture getting to the electrical part of the car. Has this happened to anyone here before? Ant information is greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • whenever we see this problem replacing the spark plug wires (and distributor cap and rotor on vehicles that have them) virtually always cures the problem. it seems that heat causes dry rotting of the insulation which allows the high voltage spark to escape thru minute cracks especially on damp days. hope this helps.
  • just the other day , on my 2001 ford escape, i noticed that my interior lights dont work, my radio doesnt work, and my power locks only work when the car is running, aswell my speedomidor doesnt sum strange things when i start the car. @ first i thought i blew a fuse.. so i checked.. and i did.. the 5v radio one.. so i changed that.. but the problems sill exist..please if anyone has had this problem, or sumthing simular.. please let me know asap about a soloution to this.. thanks alot
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 11,786
    had the same thing with our '04 after dealer serviced it. i think they reset something to do with the security system.
    when i mentioned it to the sa, he replied with a nonchelant, 'oh yeah, it is not a problem'.
    the speedo jump to max when it was started.
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2014 Ford F-150 FX4
  • no worries .. i figured it out.. it was a fuse.. that i didnt check.. in the fuse panel its labled as "room".. thanks for your help.
  • I have a 2002 Tribute with automatic transmission. Acceleration is fine until I get up to 80kph. If I get stuck behind another vehicle at that speed, the revs drop back to around 1800rpm. If I then try to accelerate the car feels as if the gear selector won't drop down a gear and the revs stay constant. If I take my foot off the accelerator, the revs climb to 2000rpm and everything feels OK. The mechanic put the car on the computer and promptly said there were no problems. Any ideas?
  • pwhytepwhyte Posts: 1
    have a 2003 Mazda Tribute and someone busted out or stole the passenger side external mirror (non-heated). The external casing and motor all appear to be undamaged. The only thing that appears to be missing is the mirror itself.

    I went to my Mazda dealer to see about getting the mirror replaced and they sell the part (none in stock) for about $58. However, they have no experience in replacing just the mirror. They insist that I should replace the entire mirror assmbly for about $300 + labor. They told me they could order just the mirror but if they couldn't figure out how to replace it I'd be out the cost of the mirror and would have to buy the complete assembly.

    Has anyone replaced just the mirror glass? It seems extreme that I'd have to buy a whole mirror assembly. What's left is the external casing and the internal motor with a round plate facing ringing with one large open hole and what appears to be 3 screw holes, all intact. Does anyone know how to put in the mirror glass?

    Pat Whyte
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    I'd check with a local auto glass company. If everything else is intact, I don't see what the big deal is about gluing a new piece of dual mirror glass to it. There at least one non-OEM replacement online for around $25. Usual disclaimers - I just found that link with a cursory net search and don't know anything about the company.
  • Any competent glazier should be able to cut a mirror to the shape and fit it to the frame for you. The big problem I had the last time I had a similar problem was that you basically had to undo the entire mirror assembly to get the frame out. This involved removing some of the upholstery on the door.
  • 6feb766feb76 Posts: 2
    Auto glass installers should be able to order a piece of replacement glass cut exactly to fit. They are usually glued in with urethane adhesive, which is the OEM method as well, I believe.
  • I saw your posting about truck not starting. I had the same problem. At least one of your coil packs has a fracture, you may not even be able to see it. Pick up some J. B. Weld rated for at least 300 degrees. Cover the top of the coil pack(s) with the J.B. weld. Let dry completely. Replace. This should fix the problem. If check engine light comes on, take to Auto zone, get code. Code will tell you what cylinder is problematic. You may have to replace individual coil pack, I did. You will save a lot of money either way. Good luck!
  • I have a 2005 Escape that I bought in October of 2004. It has over 47,000 miles so it is not under the warranty at this time. It is currently at the dealership because it will not accelerate properly from a stopped position, which is even worse when the A/C is on. The dealership did the diagnostics and determined it is a transmission problem, however, after being there for 2 weeks and having a new transmission installed, the problem is still not resolved. Supposedly, the tech has been on the Ford hotline for at least 2 days now.

    My husband has a 2005 F-350 Powerstroke and he is currently pursuing the lemon law on that. His truck has less than 25,000 miles so it is still under warrantly. The lemon law depends on the state you reside in as to the specifics, however, in our state I believe if it has been in the shop more than 3 times or a certain number of days it would qualify. I would try to pursue the lemon law on mine but I was told that the problem would have had to have started while it was still under warranty. I know it ran hot one time before and I don't recall what the problem was with that or how it was resolved but I am going to check. Apparently 2005 was not the year for Ford! I do also know that after June 2006 Ford started doing a 5 year 60,000 mile powertrain warranty, which would include transmission work. If your vehicle was under 36,000 miles when the warranty started I would pursue the lemon law on it. Good luck!
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 569
    The compass on our 2007 Limited is still missing. The dealer states that Ford Canada may have deleted this screen in March of 2007. As the sales rep. stated Ford will do anything to save a buck a vehicle. However, they are now in touch with Head Office to see if anything can be done to rectify this concern.

    Secondly why would Ford not have a recirculate position on the climate control? The only way to stop outside air from entering the SUV is to turn the dial to Max.AC or turn the system off completely. Our Focus had a separate recirculate button and if I remember correctly so did our 91 Escort.

  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 569
    I meant March of 2006.
  • I agree with you so much. I will never buy another ford.
    I had a 05 Escape with a knocking sound in the door and the service dept. did not know how to fix it. The dealerhip bought that vehicle after a year from me. Good trade price. I got a 07 escape and after 3 days had the same knocking sound. "ALL YOU FORD ESCAPE OWNERS BEAWARE OF THAT ANNOYING KNOCKING NOISE", minor but aggravating to pay 20+ grand. I got out of that one after seven days and now own a HONDA Accord and love it. Honda for me from now on! :lemon: :lemon:
  • Although I agree with you about problems with automobiles, but you have to admit, Fords quality has gotten alot better within the past 5 years. i dont think you or any one knows that when you buy from Honda, Nissan, or Toyota, some of the Money that you spent on the Purchase price, goes over seas back into the Economy of the Asian auto groups, even though they are made here, the money doesn't stay in the U.S. and when you buy Ford or GM it stays here in the USA. Keep in Mind, If you take care of your vehicle, and Maintenance it like your Manual says, you will have Minimal problems in the Future. Buy American!
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 11,786
    based on what i read somewhere else, i wrapped the post for the liftgate latch with some electrical tape.
    so far, my wife says she has not heard the noise since.
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2014 Ford F-150 FX4
  • Hi. I wanted to know if anyone else has had problems with their Escape starting. It turns over just fine, but as I'm starting it then it just stops. There is that "fuel reset" button and then waited about 30 mins and then it starts just fine - but this has happened twice this week. What's the problem? I love my Escape - except for this problem. Any others? Suggestions?
  • I would first start with your fuel fileter, very easy to change on escapes. It sounds like you got some bad gas, if the fuel fileter change doesn't solve this then you will have to diagnose it thru the fuel delivery system, if it is a fuel delivery problem: net is the fuel injectors, fuel pump, pump relay switch... but i would just change the fileter first. Good luck
  • I probably am not the first by any stretch for the Escape, but I just turned over 100K on my '01 Escape V6 XLT. Things on the inside have gotten a little looser and more rattly, but it starts fine and runs fine for now. Major work done includes:
    - 3 Front-brake jobs, w/2 change of rotors.
    - 1 Rear brake job.
    - Replaced tires twice (2) past originals.
    - Replaced alternator once.
    - PCM reflashed 3-times for software upgrades, once under
    - Replaced battery once.
    - Sub-woofer replaced under warranty.
    - EGR sensor replaced under recall.
    - Transmission flushed three (3) times.
    - Radiator flushed three (3) times.
    - Power steering flushed two (2) times.
    - Brake system flushed three (3) times.
    Religious oil changes (Mobil 1 5W-30) every 4K miles.
    Changed to synthetic (Mobil 1) transmission fluid at ~45K miles and flushed twice with it.
    At this point everything seems to be in working order (knock on all the hard-plastic in the Escape). Would I do it over again ? Probably. I made the best choice possible and got a heck'uv a deal at the time. The choices in '01 were less numerous and appelaing at the time. Would I buy another Escape ? Depends... I'd have to be convinced that an '07 or the upcoming '08 next year is that much better. The choices have gotten a lot more numerous and more appealing. My next purchase will have to integrate gas-mileage more heavily into the total equation. I don' think Ford can squeeze too many more mpg's from the 3.0 Duratec. Currently I'm averaging 17.0 City/21-22 Hwy. no matter what I do to save gas.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    A local television station is looking to interview consumers who own a Ford Escape who might have corrosion issues in the interior of the vehicle. The current customer is saying that there is corrosion underneath the dash (near the glove box). Please send an e-mail to no later than Friday, November 10, 2006 by 2:00 PM PST/5:00 EST containing your daytime contact information.

    Edmunds Manager UGC Click on my screen name to send a personal message. Need help navigating? Check out Getting Started in Edmunds Forums.
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  • I have a 2005 Tribute with about 31000km (about 19000 miles) on it I'm taking in for regular service next week, and I'm not sure which issues are worth bringing up with the dealer. Of course, there's the regular creaking/groaning/crappy plastic panels/etc., but I think I will probably try some of the fixes mentioned here rather than attempting to get them to fix it. There's other stuff I'd consider more serious, and I'd like to know if any of this is "normal" for the Escape/Tribute.

    First, I've noticed that the car shudders when I put it into and out of gear (shift, wait a couple of seconds, shudder). I'm not sure if this always happened, but I've read it could be a problem with the transmission.

    Also, a couple of brake-related issues. I sometimes get a lot of groaning/shuddering from the brakes when applying them lightly to come to a stop or start up on an incline. For instance, backing out of the driveway with the brakes applied to control speed. It is much more pronounced when the car has been in the rain. Also, I've been doing a lot of highway driving the past few months, and I've noticed that when braking from high speed, I get vibration sort of like a very toned down version of the ABS system. Basically, high speed braking is not very smooth.

    Well, I guess there are a few other minor things. In cold weather, the driver-side window makes horrible screeching noises when it's operated. I told them about it last time and they said they tightened some bolts inside, but it didn't seem to make much difference. The rear of the car often groans when you step out of the front -- it's caused by the parking brake, and they "fixed" it last time only to have it return after a couple of months. Also, the windshield defogger obviously misses fairly large areas of the window at the sides (you can see the blowing pattern). The Mazda dealer says this is "normal", but it means a good portion of the windshield is obscured all Winter! And finally, I've noticed that the bolts and metal fittings under the front seats have a lot of rust on them, as well as some spots on the windshield wiper base.

    Sorry for the long post. Please bear with me and comment on any of these items, even if they don't scream "YOUR CAR IS ABOUT TO BLOW UP" :)
  • please post your engine/drivetrain configuration.
    Your issues are common with lots of other car models, even high-end ones like Acura and BMW.

    Idle vibration could be due to tranny, or to low idle speed, or a bad engine mount.

    brake vibration/poor high speed braking: warped rotors or deposits on rotors due to pad compound. Aftermarket pads might solve it.

    for noisy windows, try using a silicone spray lube in the window track (lower window part-way, spray track, then raise/lower to work it in) this will also solve any "slow windows" you might have.

    check attachment of rear parking brake cable. spray silicone lube onto spring perches.

    for misted windows and rust, inspect to see if you have a cabin water leak, consider using a de-essicant product and/or removing the floor mats to dry them out in the winter if you track in lots of snow. Don't use the recirculate option, and check to see that it it functioning properly (ie not stuck in recirculate). inspect AC drains to make sure condensation is not entering the cabin. inspect climate control system air inlet/cowling to make sure water is not entering the cabin.
  • Sorry, I completely forgot to post the model! It's the V6/AWD "GT" (i.e. with sunroof and fog lights).

    I don't think I am getting any idle vibration. For the transmission, I didn't describe it correctly. It happens when shifting INTO gear and BETWEEN gears, but not when shifting into park. When I switch gears, there is an immediate shudder and another shudder a second or two later. Sometimes it is quite pronounced, and I heard a "ping" this morning. It is actually rather disconcerting, especially given the poor track record of the Escape/Tribute transmission.

    I will definitely have them check the brakes. I don't have any trouble with braking distance or performance, it's just the noise and vibration.

    I will try the silicone spray for the window. It is only the driver side window, and only when it is moved up or down in cold weather. It's obviously rubbing on something internally, which produces an incredibly loud and piercing screeching noise.

    I don't know what causes the parking brake groaning, but the parking brake itself works fine. They seemed to be aware of the issue at the dealership last time we mentioned it, and whatever they did "fixed" it temporarily.

    As for the window fogging, pretty much all cars here get fogged up a lot in the Winter, so it's not exactly a surprise. The issue is that the defogger doesn't cover the sides of the windshield. The dealer says it's adjusted to factory specs and that we should basically just live with it. I was thinking of trying an anti-fog product mentioned here, but I can't remember the name (Rain-X?).

    Rust is not uncommon here because of humidity in the Summer, but I would expect metal fittings to last a little longer than this. I noticed it about 8 months after we got the Tribute. Our other car ('96 Escort) has rust on the same parts (the seat bolts and such underneath). Yay Ford...

    Anyway, I really appreciate your reply, and I hope this will help with further clarification. Thanks!
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    I have seen new Fords with rusted components underneath the power seats. Apparently this is not actual rust, but something caused by lubrication that goes on the power seats. If both front seats are not power, check under the non power seat.
  • My wife has a 2004 Escape. When she releases the hand brake, the light stays illuminated. Is there a switch in the handle or anything like that to check? I don't want to pay a dealer to figure out a problem like this, yet my wife insists that it has to be fixed.
  • I recently had the IAC valve on my 2002 V6 replaced for something similar. This is something you can do yourself since it right on top of the engine by the air intake hose.
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