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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • butetbutet Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Mazda Tribute 2.3L that has been running fine up until about a week ago. I started hearing a slight engine knock. Engine is not low on oil, I don't find any leaks, and have no warning lights on. The knock is constant and does not get louder when you accelerate. The Tribute has 70000+ miles on it. I was wondering if anybody else has experienced this problem and what was wrong.
  • 2001 Mazda Tribute, I feel a vibration in the gas pedal while decelerating. I also hear the vibration, like a loud hum or could be discribes as a rough :confuse: whinning. The vibration is not extreme but noticeably different than normal. While accelerating the noise and pedal vibration goes away, or is at least far less. While stopped the noise and vibration are also not there, or is at least far less. I had suspected a hole in the exhaust but felt I would only hear not feel the problem. Any help would be appreciated.
  • Anyone try to replace the plugs along the back of the V6 / 3L motor yet? The front 3 were the easiest I've ever done, but the back 3 are ridiculous. I think I have to actually remove the rear seats!! Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • To replace the back plugs on an escape/tribute 3.0 l v-6 you have to remove the upperintake, it is not as bad as everyone thinks, but you do have to also remove all the vacuum lines/hoses, the throttle cable that goes to the the t.body. You do not have to remove the throttle body. I have it down to a science, and only takes me about 45 minutes, The dealers want up to $400.00 to do this, The first time I did it, it took me about 3 hours, and since then I have done about 5 changes for my neigbors and I only charge $75.00 plus Parts. Do you live near Louisville, KY? Haha. Any more Info let me know!

  • I have a 2001 Tribute 3.0L with 70K miles. I have been chasing a hard start problem for months.
    Sometimes it will fire within 1 or 2 seconds as it should, other times it will crank for 5 to 10 seconds half a dozen times (sometimes 8 or 10 times) before it fires. It runs great, just dosen't like to start about 25% of the time.
    First, yes I have replaced the IAC. As well as the battery, starter relay, cam sensor, and crank sensor. I have been to two Mazda dealers, one Ford dealer and two independents. Lots of guessing. There has never been any mil lights, codes or pending codes. It has been scanned at least a dozen times including koeo and koer.
    The Ford dealer thought it was in the PCM and said a Mazda dealer could replace it under warranty (the PCM is covered 8 years/80K miles). However the Mazda dealer replaced the relay, says it starts fine, then suggested "if the problem returns, replace the fuel pump". The problem never went away and the fuel pump tests fine. I believe none of them has fixed the problem, because they have not kept the vehicle long enough to verify the problem and then do a proper diagnosis.
    My gut feeling is that this is a contact/corrosion problem, because it is intermittent. This weekend I hope to work through Ford TSB 06-9-3 (connector terminal corrosion).
    Has anyone had a similar starting problem that was not the IAC?
  • I was under the hood of our 2003 Escape v-6 auto and notice a vaccum hose that appears to be coming from the tranny area but is not connected on the top side.
    Flash-light and mirror in hand I looked and looked for a place to connect it but no luck.
    Any idea of where this is supposed to go (comes up just to left of battery when facing the engine from front.)

  • If you are talking about the one that is looped under the throttle body, that is a vent tube, it just vents air pressure from tranny it is perfectly normal . it does NOT hook to anything. Hope this helps!
  • You have either 1 or 2 problems. You need to replace Both the EGR "sniffer" and the EGR sensor. They are close to the firewall and come up from the exhaust close to your brake booster on the left side, but on the engine. they look like little flat electrical plug ins coming from a hard metal tube, with a rubber tube on them. The small one is around $30 and the big one is around $70. They get built up with carbon, just like your IAC and it wont let it idle right, and keeps dying. If you replace these unplug your battery for 15 minutes, so your computer can recalibrate the new parts, or else it will still do the same thing, and it still might, for about 30 to 50 miles. If that is not your problem, your second problem could be in the individual coil packs. There is no way of checking them correctly unless you are throwing a check engine light. They get hairline cracks in them and especially when it has been raining or very damp outside, is when they like to act up, because that moisture in the air finds its way to the cracks and breaks the electrical contact. They are expensive. $125.00 x 6. so your best bet is replace one, and if it still does it, put your old one back on and the new one on the next plug, etc... etc... process of elimination. Hopes this helps!
  • I have a 2001 Tribute LX. I have a consistent problem in the cold weather. Car starts fine, idles normal for about 10 seconds the DROPS down and chugs along horribly. The entire car shakes and you hear all these noises under the hood and it feels as if it is going to stall or worse explode. The only resolution is to sit in car and keep foot on gas, to bring up RPMS. This (foot ongas)needs to be done UNTIL the car temperature gauge reads 1/4 pass the cold mark. After this i can ease off gas and only until the temp gauge reads normal (middle mark), is it able to be driven without shaking etc. This takes about 15 minutes from start till Im able to drive it. After it is normal , it drives and runs perfectly. Again, it only happens in cold weather. Spring and summer it was fine. My mechanic first thought it was IAC then ran tests and thought it something else - he cleaned fuel lines or something. They did NOT change the IAC. Needless to say after i picked it up, and started it again 4 hours later in cold weather it was NOT fixed. Problem not fixed. I cannot emphasize enough the shaking and sounds that come everytime I 'cold start" it. Any advice? I was hoping it isthe IAC? I wish they would have tried that? It seems not to be an expensive part. Any suggestios or tips/advice/ideas would be greatly appreciated. I am at my wits end with the mechanic.Thanks
  • I would replace these 3 things, IAC, EGR Sensor, and EGR Valve. The EGR parts are towards the firewall on the mid right hand side of the upper intake, (in Back) One is cylinder shaped (plastic) and the other is shaped like a square(flat) Plastic, They have vaccuum lines running to them, one is hooked to a hard metal line, to your exhaust with a rubber hose. the other one goes in to your upper intake, both are electronic. One is around $20.00and the other is around $68.00 If these 3 things do not help it, the best thing to do is leave it at a mechanics shop when you know its gonna be cold, dont park inside shop(leave outside) overnight, and when it starts to do it, have him plug his computer in, and it will tell him what it is. Hopes this helps.

    Nitrous :shades:
  • I have the exact same issue with my G/F's 2001 Tribute just starting this issue a few months ago...and it has never left her stranded....but it is very annoying to have to crank this thing over and over before she fires up. Once she starts, the idles and runs just fine...but if you let her sit for any length of time.....then try and start her up takes several cranks before she will fire up....

    it simply acts like there is a very weak spark during start in the OLD days if you did not use a ballast resistor on the coil for normal operation...then use a direct 12v just during starting.....but tried to use the same voltage for starting and running.....

    is there any type of bypass that is suppose to offer a HOTTER spark during start-up vs constant running on these things??? if so, that is most likely the culprit in this case.....other than stumped.....
  • On four different occasions my Ford Escapr stalled with no power just after leaving my apartment. Started it right up & ran fine after. I took it to the dealership & they say no codes were tripped & basically told if it happens again & the check engine light goes on to have it towed in. This is very frustrating and the check engine light has never gone on. Any Ford mechanics have any advise? Thanks, John
  • idaryeidarye Posts: 2
    I have had a very similar problem with my '02 Tribute recently (rough idle for first few minutes after cold start). It would also miss at around 4000 rpm. First time I brought it in, they changed fuel filter (original one by the way), but that did not fix the issue. Second time, they cleaned the throttle body, and, voala, problem gone!

    So, it's a cheap fix and worth a shot. I did have a check engine light, and it was giving a too lean code.
  • Thank you for your response. My car has been at the mechanic's for over 1 week now. After running tests for a couple days on their own as well as along with a Ford rep (sister model), it was determined that the problem is with the fuel injectors. I believe 2 or 3 have to be replaced? I am waiting for them to finish and see if in fact this solves the problems. I was able to pick up codes prior to dropping it off - misfires on cylinders 5 and 6, and code for lean bank. Of course, when i dropped it off, the weather here became unseasonably very warm, and it started with NO PROBLEM and ran smooth as ever and the engine light disappeared. I hope this fuel injector replacement "fixes" the problems. I say problems because i have other issue when it rains also. after it rains and i start the car, i also get rough idle but it is different than other issue. i can drive it etc, it just a little rough shakes slightly, and as driving feels like the car is "dragging". After its running for about 15-20 minutes it's fine.
  • I am experiencing the same issues, my new escape stalls while idling and also when slowing down approaching stops in the road. I am also experiencing 2 and 3 turn starts, but that is the least of my worries. The stalling is a major problem and am having the same issue with the dealers, not knowing what to do. I did find out that Escapes dating back a few years have had similar occurances and a service bulletin has been put out (TSB-07-5-6). I am going to the dealer again and specifying this TSB be looked into.
  • idaryeidarye Posts: 2
    yeah, my car had 6 error codes, they were all coming from the two 02 sensor banks and were saying it was running lean. The mechanic told me that Fords seem to get more carbon build-up in the throttle body for some reason, and Tributes have a Ford engine of course. I personally thought it had something to do with fuel injectors, but after he cleaned the throttle body, I have not had any problems (been over a week now). Before, the check engine light came right back on after they reset it.

    Anyway, hope it works out for you, but if it is still doing the same after this fix, have them clean the throttle body.
  • pjkkozpjkkoz Posts: 2
    kalee71, I was wondering if your problem has been solved, my wife's 2001 LX is doing exactly the same thing .The check engine light doe not go on. Did you check engine light light up? Thanks.
  • Took my 05 Tribute to the Mazda dealer yesterday as it was making a whirring type noise (couldn't pinpoint when exactly) then the check engine light came on.

    3 different problems detected: 1) #2 cylinder showing misfire, sparkplug fouled out - needs coil replacement, new "o" rings, and replace spark plug $350 since intake has to come off. 2) power steering fluid is thin - needs to be flushed $100 (flushed or drained???) 3) Emerg. brake shoe is pinned up against rear rotor. It's self adjusting, but no adjustment is left. Need to adjust rear brakes $50 (yet he said there was no adjustment left??? Never did find out what was causing the noise.

    Any advice or comments? Thanks!
  • Hi,
    I actually got my tribute back a few days ago...just in time for the very cold weather here again..good test..the first morning there was a "hiccup" but it was fine - may have been simply because i let it sit for a couple days in very cold weather..after that (the last 3 days) it is started fine..the idle (rpms) stay at 1000 - no dropping down, no loud noises, NO SHAKING,and clunking, and feeling like it would stall. IT WORKS! It rides better than ever..smooth..i wonder if i always had a problem with the fuel injectors from the start..i always had an issue when drinving...prarticularly around 50MPH when it would sort of jump..people attested it to gear chnage..but it happened at different speeds, on highway and street driving and it was very "obnoxious" sometimes felt like something was going to "drop"...anyway that has stopped as well. As far as what was fixed.....3 fuel injectors were i think was actually leaking a bit...they went ahead and changed all 6 injectors, replaced two coils, new spark plugs, fuel filter. Total = appx 1k. but luckily i had extended warranty which covered about 70%..In answer to your engine light did come on and then would go off after a few days..but then back on..To reiterate i was able to use one of those code readers which i picked up 2 misfire codes(on cylinders 5 and 6) as well as lean bank code. I've heard you can go to an autozone auto parts store, and they will read the codes for you (reads best when engine light is on, but you may still get codes)..then you can do search online on the codes you get.. A previous reader posted in this forum re: choke cleaning and ford engine etc..i've read that a lot too, and my mechanic did have a "ford" rep come and run tests as well. i also had choke cleaned just prior to this - they thought that would have fixed probloem initailly..of course it hadn't..Bottom line, it seems it can be a variety of things - from spark plugs, choke cleaning, fuel injectors, IAC, EGR by one they have to be checked i guess..check the inexpensive first :).. spark plugs, etc. I don't know how bad your tirbute is, if it was like mine. Just for kicks, next time it happens, open hood , locate IAC/AIC i forget name..research online for's right next to engine (to your right) --bright shiny silver cylinderish car is on..give it a couple "taps" with hammer or screwdriver handle. see if a change happens or if it kicks in..if it does..then thats your problem (IAC) and you'd be very lucky as that is inexpensive esp if u do it yourself. I hoped that was my problemn - it wasnt..but worth a shot to start. Every have a tune up? could be spark plugs..checkt hat next..good luck
  • pjkkozpjkkoz Posts: 2
    Hello, I just got mine back from the shop last night, my problem was a leaky intake manifold gasket. Hope your problem doesn't recurr if it does that's something else to check. thanks for your reply.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Some 2005-2008 Escape and Mariner vehicles equipped with a CD4E automatic transaxle and built from 8/1/2004 through 2/15/2007 may exhibit an engine stall when coming to a stop or when engaging the transmission into drive or reverse. This condition may be intermittent and often occurs after extended drives. There may be no diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) stored. This may be caused by internal wear in the torque converter which prevents it from unlocking.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 573
    Does this affect both 4 and V6 Escapes?
  • Had the same blinking airbag light problem. Dealership replaced some kind of connector plug/box under the front drivers seat. No issues since.
  • Hello, I am new to the forum and have an issue with my Escape. It has the 3.0 V6 and has ran fine till 2 days ago. It now acts like it is running on 2 cylinders. No power, I cant even get it to move up a very small incline. Check engine light is on so I bought a code reader, gave me nothing but an "E"..I have no idea what that is, possibly error? Anyway, I suspect it is one or more of the O2 sensors due to the abruptness of the problem. I bought a Chiltons manual to locate the sensors and it is not very good at explaining where they are. I ahve found 1 of them but I am not sure which one it is. If anyone has info as to where the other 3 are at could you please let me know..thanks.
  • I have a 2008 Ford Escape with the 4 cylinder engine. It has 800 miles.I noticed tonight that if I try and rev the engine while in park, the engine starts to cut out at 3500 RPM. Once in drive and going down the highway at full throttle ; heavy acceleration, the engine performs fine......its just while in park or neutral reving the engine that it starts to cut out. I would appreciate it if anyone else can comment on what the problem might be. Thanks
  • hi, I want to flush the coolant on my 02 mazda tribute myself, but could not locate the drain plug of the coolant on the radiator, could some one show me where is it? Mazda dealer want 140 for it. and how many liters of coolant should I buy, which brand is good? many thinaks.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    This behavior is a result of electronic throttle. There is no physical connection between the gas pedal and the engine, its all electronic.

    SO to keep fools from revving the hell out of their engine when the car is not in gear, the throttle cuts electronically.

  • My tribute's ECM number is YL8A-CA. Not getting one of these so can I fit a YL8F-GF came from a 2001 Tribute same I4 Zetec engine. what's the difference between these two boxes?
  • yes mschmal is right. most EFI vehicles have some sort of RPM limiting when the car is in park and neutral. why do you want to rev so high when you don't plan to go anywhere anyway? :confuse:
  • My 02 Escape produces a pronounced "thump" when accelerating, similar to a transmission changing gears. My concern is that it happens 95% of the time, regardless of speed, road conditions, weather or incline. If I feather the pedal, ever so gently, I can accelerate without the thump, but it doesn't make sense to drive this way. Under normal acceleration, the thump is always there; even when going down hill. Watching the tachometer indicates that the transmission is not shifting gears, and I don't get the thump when the transmission does change gears. Any thoughts what this might be?

    Another transmission issue is that there is a "click" sound on the break pedal when the engine is running and the Escape is in park. The click sound does not happen when the Escape is moving or standing in any gear. My dealer told me this is some sort of transmission shifter linkage that may cause the transmission to get stuck in a gear. He also informed me that it would cost around $500 to fix. Has anyone experienced this, had it fail, and found a less expensive repair option?

    BTW, I don't drive this vehicle very much, and it only has 38000 miles on it. Seems like low mileage for transmission problems, and I wonder if this vehicle is going to become a money pit.

    Any advice would be most appreciated.
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