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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • my 2001 tribute lost all driving power when its put into gear. it will idle and will only rev up to the 2, but when put in gear it will stall. if it doesn't stall immediately when i push on the gas it does nothing. i have replaced..egr valve and sensor, throttle position and mass air flow sensor, fuel filter, air filter, ignition coils and spark plugs. there is a strong fuel smell along with it, does anyone have any ideas on what else could be wrong with it. i really don't want to have it towed to a shop and get screwed out of alot of money. i am thinking it all has something to do with the fuel/emission system, (the tps, iat..intake air temp. sensor and a multiple misfire codes is what showed up when i hook the analyzer up to it) any advise would be appreciated. :confuse:
  • Same problem...The dealer changed the lower intake manifold gaskets ..problem solved.
  • This sounds like my situation. I just bought a new 2008 Escape XLT AWD. It has stalled out twice. I lose RPMS and it will not start for about 2-5 min. It is now in the shop. I had a 2001 Escape XLS4x4 but it got totaled. So I thought I'd go back to the Escape. I hope I didn't make the wrong decision. :sick:
  • i put the problems that i am having with my 2001 mazda tribute on post # 3646. i am at a lost of whati culd do next. please if anyone knows anythng about it would you please give me some advise. thank you to whoever responds.~~~~~~~brandi5 :confuse: & :sick:
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Check out the intake manifold gaskets as bunky1 suggested in #3674: bunky1, "Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair" #3647, 11 Feb 2008 11:38 am

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Does anyone have any info on this???
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 12,526
    too bad it is already in the shop. i would have checked to make sure the battery cables were securely connected. let us know what the diagnosis is.
    i can guarantee it won't be the battery cable was loose!
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2017 Ford F-150 Limited
  • I have an 04 escape with the 6 cylinder and it also "thumps" i know it is either a motor mount or tranny mount on mine (i haven't got under and found it yet) have someone check for you...

    As far as the "click" goes your dealer is a fraud!! read your manual... the click is a safety device to shift out of Park. try shifting before the click noise you can't... You need to press the brake first to release the gearshift.

    Chris :shades:
  • Chris - I've been doing a lot of searching about the "thump" and it appears that MANY Escape owners are having transmission problems. I will have a mechanic look for broken motor mounts, as that would be a less expensive repair.

    Regarding the brake pedal click, I'm well aware that you must step on the brake to engage the transmission. The dealer claims the click is coming from a "brake shift interlock", and if it fails the vehicle will be stuck in park. I've read a few cases where this has happened, but was looking for repair histories and costs.

  • I have an 03 escape that runs great. Only problem is that periodically it doesn't start. You can hear car crank, just won't turn over. you wait alittle while, and then it turns over with no problem. Any one have or hear of this this problem?????
    Its very frustrating
  • mjr6mjr6 Posts: 3
    I have had my care in the Ford Dealership 2 times in past 2 weeks and they can't seem to figure out what it wrong with it. When in Idle at a stop sign, the car shuts down but starts right back up (doesn't lose complete power.) The first trip to the dealership they replaced 2 sensor's which they said would fix the problem I went to pick it up and it still was doing the same thing. On the 2nd trip back they said they needed to change another sensor which when they tested it, wasn't the problem. 3 days after having my car, they call and said that they aren't quite sure what is wrong but replacing the transmission should fix it. Has anyone experienced this? If so what was fixed?
  • sanipasssanipass Posts: 10
    i have an 02 escape and had the same problem, the computer diagnostic say it was a bad coil too but now i am replacing the last 2 out of six and still not convinced it will solve the problem, these coils are not cheap and buying all six in a matter of 3 weeks is rediculous, i will post later if replacing every coil will solve the mysterious rough idle problem. good luck
  • sanipasssanipass Posts: 10
    Ford is always saying they are built tough, so its no wonder they don't want to hear they've built nothing but lemons. when i need help with my ford escape i pay 75$/hour for them to look at the damn thing and tell me there is nothing wrong with it. and try to tell me to bring it back when it happens again. well who the hell do i do that when they've emptied my pockets and done nothing for me?its all a scam, we are all suckers and they know it. i am the proud owner of a new GMC Seirra and i am loving the service with a smile. i got my first oil change for free. ford dealer charged my wife 545$ to repair a broken coolant pipe with a piece of rubber hose and two friggen dollar store clamps!!! suckers. :lemon:
  • sanipasssanipass Posts: 10
    money pit is not the word to describe it man, i got a 02 escape i cannot sell because i will never get back what i put into it, a new transmission( 4,040$) all new ignition coils(roughly 600$) and hours upon hours of labour with no actual repairing being done to it. sorry to say man but the ford escape is a bottomless pit. :lemon:
  • sanipasssanipass Posts: 10
    replacing the tranny won't fix an idle problem but i have had to replace mine for other reasons, that being it wouldn't reverse, but with a brand new 4 thousand dollar trans i still had to replace every single ignition coil and still got problems. these forums are the only place i don't feel like an idiot... its my girlfriends car. :lemon:
  • mjr6mjr6 Posts: 3
    I'm at a loss as to what to do. The Ford Dealership where I bought the car want's 90 dollars each time to tell me that they don't know for sure what the problem is. No codes are showing and the transmission isn't dropping when this is happening. I had a similar problem a couple of years ago with this and it was a vaccum leak, however they say it isn't that this time. There are no problems when driving the car down the road, just when at a stop and starting to move again. Radio stays on, engine light doesn't come on. It makes no sense that they can't figure it out without replacing the transmition!
  • nitrous93nitrous93 Posts: 17
    As An owner of a 2002 Ford escape myself, i am not going to say i havent had some problems, But I do, do General Maintenance on this vehicle. You cant just put gas and change oil in it, It is just like any machine, you have to do general and preventive maintenance on Any vehicle, so Here is what you look at. DO NOT put a new Tranny in it. The dealership is trying to take you for a ride. And If you do replace the Transmission, get it in Writing from the Service Manager, that if this doesnt fix the problem, Than they will at their cost find and fix the problem. Assuming you have the 3.0 liter V6 model, replace just the back 3 coil pack plugs, as well as the spark plugs, also replace the upper and lower intake gaskets and your Pcv valve, and that will usually fix your problems. The reason why to only replace the back 3 coil pack plugs is because they are under the intake and they are exposed to 90% more heat, and them are the first to go. While the upper intake is off, just replace the ringed upper intake gaskets, and then remove the lower intake, and replace gasket as well. Do not let anyone charge you 2 seperate times to replace the coil packs and gaskets, they already have the upper intake off to replace the coil packs so you might as well change the gaskets to. The lower intake gaskets will cause a vacuum leak and your engine will lose power and die at idle. Same as with the coil packs, especially if it has been raining alot(moisture in air) Hope this helps.
    Dave :shades:
  • mjr6mjr6 Posts: 3
    Thanks Dave, I will have these things checked out. I thought it was strange that the transmission had to be replaced without any problems with it. I'll post back in a couple of days of what I find out.
  • sanipasssanipass Posts: 10
    i replaced the back three coil packs but didn't change the gaskets on the intake but i did check for leaks on the vacuum lines with none to speak of, and now all is well, the engine light is off and running at a smooth idle with good power. still showing the air bag light in the dash but i got the dealership to read the computer at no charge but they find no code... so one problem solved but yet another mystery... hahahaha. built ford tough? :lemon:
  • nitrous93nitrous93 Posts: 17
    Good deal. Your Air bag light is caused by a bad sensor plug under the drivers seat, It has to be changed, Not hard. I believe this sensor is around $40.00 , But dont quote me. Hope this helps.
    Dave. :shades:
    P.S. Come on now you have to admit that FORD has done a tremendous job on their quality since 2004. If you havent noticed. Go and look at their latest models. Besides, If you dont support Dodge, Chevy and Ford, then the whole automotive industry will be in the Toilet, because then you will have to buy a car from the other GUYS! HAHA! ;)
  • gbs1043gbs1043 Posts: 5
    Sounds as if you have encountered an incompetent repair shop. If your Escape is a V6 and you did not order the towing package, then you don't have the extra transmission fluid cooler that sits in front of the radiator (near the lower portion of the radiator). If you don't have the extra cooling, the CD4E transmissions will fail. It's a problem ford has known about for years. Ford is pretty stupid, because they could have fixed the problem in all Escapes, by just adding the 10 buck (their cost) fluid cooler.Get a good attorney and try to file a class action suit against Ford. You should win. It's pretty cut and dried. Ford knew about the defect and did nothing to correct it...
  • Look for one of the engine mounts to be bad. Mine was on the passenger side. Found it by rocking the vehicle back and forth (in park with the hood up and engine OFF) quite firmly. You should see the engine rock on it's mounts and start hearing your THUNK or POP. You might also hear the transmission PARK pin clicking but ignore it (driver side of engine). Once mine started making the thumping noise I could put my finger on the bolt running thru the motot mount and feel it popping and thumping. Waiting on a new ($268!!) mount from the local Mazda dealership. LOL
  • Can anyone recommend tires for an '05 XLT Escape? Any online websites too?
  • Diane, I have the same issue, 2003 Ford Escape that periodically does not start. It seams to happen when their is a significant change with temperature in any particular day. Once the engine has cooled down, say 1-hour, it start right up. I have taken it to the Ford Dealership, they can not find the problem, no computer codes for them to read. Have you had any success?
  • Another thought about the intermittent starting problem with 2003 Escape. I gave my Escape to my son in Los Angeles after new tires, 60,000 mile check-up, etc. I really never had any issues with it. Right after he received it, it died soon after starting (within 100 or so yards) about once a month. Always it was able to start right back up. Took it to a dealership, they could not find a problem, but changed out the computer chip. The dealership said if it died and couldn't be restarted, to have it towed directly to them so they could see if a error message was tripped. Well since it always started right back up, we haven't had to tow but guess what? The last 2 times it happened was when my son started the car and practically simultaneously made a call on his I-phone which has wi-fi on. We called the dealership and the service manager had never heard of that but was going to send an email out to the Ford Technical service board. The car has not died in over 3 months now because my son no longer makes calls when he starts the car. No other issues once he is driving and makes a car and can receive calls without issues. Is this weird or what?
  • Coopchang, thanks for the reply, sound like a little different issue than I have. I can drive the vehicle to what ever destination, get out shop or what ever, come back to the vehicle and it will not start until the engine has cooled down. I am trying two different remedies. The first is to start buying gas at a different station, could be water in the gas or vapor lock. I am also going to drive with a computer diagnostic device to see if any computer codes come up over the next couple of weekends. This is my wife's car and see want to get rid of it because it is not dependable.
  • diane03diane03 Posts: 4
    I brought car back to Ford dealer and technician drove it for 2weeks with diagnostic computer attached. The car started every single time. Not one error code came up. Of course, (murphy's law) within 1 week of having car back, it didn't start. I couldn't take it anymore so I had a remote start put on car, solved all my problems. I have not had problem since February.
  • tipnkctipnkc Posts: 3
    I purchased a brand new 2005 Mazda Tribute and have had significant trouble with the gas pedal sticking. I've had the entire throttle assembly replaced TWICE, but they say it's not a defect. However, I see hundreds of other Tribute owners with the same problem. I was told, finally, to file a formal complaint with and they will investigate to see if this problem ultimately needs to be listed as a recall issue. If you have the same problem, please contact them so they can do some investigating before other people are hurt and or killed due to their gas pedal jamming in place.
  • tipnkctipnkc Posts: 3
    I also had the throttle assembly replaced, but it is worse than ever. I was told to contact the NHTSA and file a complaint so they could do the research and find out if this issue needs to be addressed as a recall item. It is a large problem that most Tribute owners are having to deal with -- but few are getting the support from the manufactorer or the dealerships to repair. Please visit the website and let them know what you've had to deal with -- please.
    Trust me, it could save a life...
  • spudsmomspudsmom Posts: 2
    Your airbag light will go off if you unplug the yellow connector under the driver's seat, clean it off, and plug it back in.
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