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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • dave186dave186 Posts: 2
    I just replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets on my mazda, in addition to the pcv valve, spark plugs and and the corroded vacuum lines. I used fuel injector spray cleaner to clean the throttle body also.

    I started it up and it ran a little rough at first, but then cleared up was running great.

    I put in a small bottle of fuel injector cleaner, and filled the tank everything ran fine.

    Once I got back home, I sprayed degreaser on the motor and rinsed everything off.

    I started it up again and, drove out of my neighborhood it was running rough and then died, NO POWER the engine was still running but the car will barely move when I put my foot on the gas.

    Could I have shorted out the coils when I washed the engine, i have pressure washed this motor many times before and had no problems.

  • golfman3golfman3 Posts: 5
    fwiw, while looking at new cars.. onm screen you can do a quick 'trade in value' of your current car. I have a 2005 Tribute i, the 4cyl front drive. w/cruise and auto, comes with everything else, pretty well loaded up for a smallie, anyway, THAT 'appraisal' came back at between $5,800 and $7200... of COURSE they are OUT of their MINDS, waaay too low. So them charging you 5k for an 01... sounds high to me... tell em' will give ya 3600 max :>) Of course I will sell mine private for 9.5k+ because keep in mind the 4 cyl is in demand. I get 29 hwy, and 25.5mpg all around. JMHO on the value. Go to and at the very least to check values. Regards.
  • asus29asus29 Posts: 5
    Hello to All auto owners Ford, GM, Nissan
    The stalling is not a problem with the vehicles you drive,
    I have found its the Ethanol in the gas.


    I to have stalling problem with my 1993 Nissan Altima, and 1987 Jaguar XJ6,
    when you stop to a light or any stop the cars stall, and if you keep your foot on the gas it stays running,
    on the Nissan Altima I have replaced my Idle control valve and still the same problem,
    I took out my hand book and seen Nissan states not to use oxygenate blend of gas which can not be determined.
    and will cause stalling and hot-starting, and lower fuel economy.

    I found a gas station with out Ethanol fuel and my cars run better.

    and the most importantly the stalling is gone. :)

    and I started a petition against Ethanol in fuels.

    Thank you

  • ggannggann Posts: 8
    I have a 2001 tribute which had a rough start,idle and intermittent miss after it warmed up. It has 175k miles and had the factory plugs in # 123. Changed all plugs still got miss and check engine code P0301 #1 cylinder misfire (check engine light and code). Swapped ign coils to move problem no help. same code. Found problem to be a wire in the plug going in and out of computer located above the engine in the firewall. The wires that you what to check are the two that leave the harness from the engine and go into the computor plug. The top wire was orange and was good, but the one right below it was green and was broken/burnt in two inside the insulation. These wires must go to the coil or fuel injector. I rerouted the wire and soldered it together and she is fine. :) You may use your finger to move these wire around and she if the problem shows up, gets worse or clears up.
  • my 2002 mazda tributes rear window does not latch. Is this a recall? If not, where can I buy the part? What part is it?
  • My cruise control worked great. I had my power brake booster replaced last year, and my cruise control stopped working. I didn't notice it until I needed the cruise control about 2 weeks later. Does anyone know if this is fairly simple to fix myself? I don't know if something was disconnected during the repair (and just needs reconnecting), or if the repair will be more costly or time consuming. :confuse:
  • Purchased new Aug 2006. Currently 43,000 miles. Regularly scheduled tire rotations At 26,000 miles tires were cupped so bad the place I took it to refused to put them back on without my signing an acknowledgement of how dangerous they were to drive. Prior to this I had an alighment completed with hopes that it would hinder the cupping and stop the deafening noise. Bought new tires right after that (Goodrich?) and now at 43,000 miles the road noise is starting and I know the tires are shot again. Why do I have to replace my tires so often? It would be cheaper for me to buy a new car than to buy new tires every year. Anyone with the same issues?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Typically, tire cupping is a balancing issue, not alignment. I would have your wheels checked to be sure they are true, laterally and axially.
  • I had to replace my tires after a couple of years because of cupping. They were cupped when I bought the car used with only 12,000 miles. After a year of driving they were unbearable. I replaced them with local Pep Boys Futura tires and purchased a lifetime rotate and balance package. I have the work done each oil change and am now at 45,000 miles on these tires with no problems. I have plenty of treadwear remaining. I do not align my cars unless I feel them pulling off center. I have not aligned the Tribute since I bought the tires, just the rotate and balance.
  • The original tires were rotated with every oil change, about every 4-5,000 miles. The car was aligned twice within one year as Conrads Goodyear said that would help reduce the tire damage. The second set of tires have been rotated every 6,000 miles and the same problem is happening, different tires, different service station. After less than 20,000 miles on them. Don't the tires get balanced when they are rotated? Could there be something wrong with the car causing this to happen to the tires?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    No, tires are not balanced when they are rotated unless specifically requested. Also, to my point about having the wheels checked, you only replaced the tires so any problem with the wheel would still be there after replacing the tire. It sounds like Conrad's isn't addressing your problem so check with another shop.
  • I just started to have th same problem with my 2002 escape it only has 62,000 miles should I repalce engine ciols or trade in what did u do how did u resolve your problem :(
  • On my last visit on 7/16/08, they replaced the Overlay LG/W Wire at PCM Pin 26 CKT 1024 Connector C175. So far, the car has been fine. Prior to this it would shudder as if it were about to die and then the check engine light would come on. On all occaisions but one, this would happen just after we turned the air conditioner on. The code it would give was P0351.

    Hope this helps your problem!
  • I have an '08 that I bought 3 months ago, and 3 times now I go to get in it, turn the key and everything comes one (radio, lights, etc) except for the engine. No noise, clicking, cranking, warning lights or sounds come from the engine. Twice this happened after it sat in my driveway over night, but once it happened after I'd been driving it around for a little while, then stopped for a few hours before trying to leave again. Takes several hours for it to start back up again.

    Dealer says they cant reproduce the problem and there aren't any codes registering. I'm a little worried about being stranded somewhere for several hours. Anyone else had a similar issue? How was it fixed?
  • I have a question I'd love some assistance with. I'm on a tight budget and trying to get this fixed myself. My car was idling very rough and the rpm's were bottoming out, but it wouldn't turn off. I looked and the crankcase vent tube had been broken on both ends so I replaced that and it helped, but didn't fix the problem. I looked around some more and found a tube below the power train control module that had a hole in it so I electrical taped that and now it idles great, with no roughness or anything. I was very excited yesterday when I thought I had fixed it until I put it in reverse to drive it, when I did it turned off. Any time that I go from park to reverse or park to drive it pretty much bottoms out on the rpms, but doesn't turn off. It's fine if I'm going from reverse to drive or something like that though. I drove it to work today and it did good, but it is very sluggish when I put it into gear, it hesitates even if I've hit the gas and then jumps and goes. My check engine light has stayed on from the beginning of this. It read code P2195 but nothing specific so i'm not sure what to do now. My wife is the one who drives the car with our two kids so I just don't want her to have any problems when she's out and about. Thanks for your assistance.
  • I had this same problem...only had the car for about two months...turned the car off five minutes later tried to start it and nothing...after a few minuteslater it started...a few days later was stranded 200 miles from wouldn't start...had to have it towed to the nearest Ford dealership and they had it for about 24 hours and had to reprogram new keys...they tried to tell me that someone must have mistaken it for their car and put their key in it which caused it to disable my car...not true! one at the Wendy's restaurant had the same car or even the kiwi lime color car I had. A few days later my car started dying for no reason...took it to where I bought it in Olathe they found bad wiring. Was fixed. Now my car doesn't want to run...for a week it's like my car doesn't want to shift to second gear...happens the whole entire time I come to a stop or slow down....when it does finally shift itself into second gear it takes off and my tires squeal...thinking it's my transmission...this morning coming to work my fuel light came on which I have a half tank of gas, the wrench light came on, my power steering went out, and my trip miles went away and just showed little lines across the I'm thinking it has some wiring issues again...taking it back for the fourth time to find out what's wrong....this car needs to be considered a lemon. When I bought the car a year ago before getting it off the lot the windshield wiper motor was dead and they had to replace it before I ever got to drive it off the lot.
  • #22 - I have the same problem now in my Escape 2003. How did you resolve this problem?
  • Hello there

    I found a gas station with regular gas with out ethanol and now my car runs good, no more stalling, but the thing is all gas stations are going to be mandate to have ethanol, i may have to trade in my car for a car thats flex fuel

    take care

  • Is this something you can check & fix yourself, or do you need to have a mechanic do it? thanks.
  • Had my Tribute in for oil change and noise in the front end when the steering wheel is moved back and forth slightly. Dealer replaced 2 link controls, found to have excessive play and they also found the left front control arm bushings were separating, this part was done under warranty but advised I should have a wheel alignment and charged $100. Also suggested that I better replace the rotors because they were corroded on the edges, asked them to clean or turn them, said they couldn't do this so went ahead and had it done, another $270 + taxes. Only relief I got from the dealer was a $50 credit on my next visit....when something freezes over will I go back. Called Mazda Canada, absolutely nothing but a hard time. Anyone else have any issues along the same line.
  • nwmnnwmn Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Escape with 60,000 miles and was just told I have transmission failure because there was no auxillary transmission oil cooler installed on my vehicle and I live in northern MN. Has anyone else heard succh a thing? NWMN
  • I just replaced the plugs on my 2004 Tribute ES with the V6 and 96000 miles. The truck drives just fine and accelerates like always, but when the trans is in neutral, its an auto, and I step on the gas it goes up to 4000rpm, drops to 3500 and oscillates between 3500 and 4000 rpm, like an rpm liter cuts in. Any help will be appreciated.
  • I have 2004 ford escape xlt, 134000km. I bought 6 months ago. first week of sep/08 car stsrted stalling and Engine light was on. I took it to garage they found code P0316 indicating ( misfire in ignition system). I talk to mechanic at dealer they think could be sparkplug, coil or computer or bad connection. I came home changed all spark plugs check all connection and clean coil connectors etc. car running fone, but everytime the weather gets warm it still has rough idle and gives me same fault code. Reading at this webside sounds like bad ignition coil. If anyone has any solution It will be gladly appreciated.
  • crhj19crhj19 Posts: 1
    If there is any kind of noise coming from the front, especially if it changes with speed, it could be one or more wheel bearings. Hope it helps.
  • my wifes 2003 escape has 105,000 miles on it. it has been a great car. recently it developed a miss in the engine while at idle. especially with the air conditioner running. i did plugs, air cleaner and gas filter. still missed. the fellows at auto zone said to run some sea foam through the engine and it would help the engine. i was preparing to clean the idle air control module when they told me to try the sea foam. i used the sea foam according to the cans instructions and lo and behold the miss disappeared. i went ahead and cleaned the idle control module. i am wondering if anyone else has tried this sea foam before and what kind of results the obtained. thanks
  • For everyone with the rough idle and sputtering. Have you intake o-rings replaced. This is a very common problem and will have you replacing parts left and right if you go by the computer codes. The intake o-rings are not electrical or mechanical so the computer cannot correctly identify the problem. When these go bad your engine sucks in too much air causing the computer to try to compensate and sending false error codes when it can't. The parts are about $30.00. Thanks
  • That my friend, is your rev limiter that prohibits the engine from going into red line when in neutral or park. This is put in place for an added protection againt detonation. Although this safety feature exist in all cars nowadays, please don't do that to your vehicle it is unecessary.
  • Vehicle: A ’04 Escape, 62K. Problem: It has occasionally started hesitating after a cold start. I push on the accelerator not confident it won’t stall. Although it hasn’t actually stalled to date, there is an increased sluggishness once it warms up. It ran great until two months ago.

    Everything possible has been done preventatively as required @ 60K, including injector/gas system flush, plugs, filters, a new battery. Dealer has failed to identify problem. Until I trip their computer, they’ve not proven helpful.

    Any others experienced this? Any suggestions?
  • In the Haynes repair manual it says you have to remove the EGR pipe (and that if you do you need to replace it). Is this true? Can I remove the upper intake without removing the EGR pipe? Thanks!
  • I believe it normal my 03 and 01 tribute do the same always have its like you are up against a wastegate on a turbo this is done so you don`t blow the engine
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