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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 2003 Ford Escape Limited 4 cylinder. I only have 43,272 miles. The car has been very good to me, until this summer. I would start my, car drive to my destination (could be a long drive or just to the supermarket), park and then return to restart my car and it would not start. I would have to wait about 1/2 hour give or take and then it would start. It began happening all the time. I brought it to Ford and they had the vehicle there for 4 days, they finally said it was the Fuel Relay Switch that needed to be replaced. Got the car back and all seemed fine until I went on a road trip (2 1/2 hour drive). Going to my destination, I did not encounter any problems, it was on my return to home that I encountered problems, stopped at a rest stop and went in to get a bite to eat came out to start my car and it just would not start. This time it took 2 hours before the car would start, got home and pulled into driveway turned off engine and tried to start and it did the same thing. Next morning the car started.

    Went back to Ford, they have had my car now for 4 days, and finally after I called for an update, the Service Manager is now telling me it is the Fuel Pump and it needs to be replaced. Expensive and considering that I only have 43,000 miles (most of it highway miles) I cannot believe it is the fuel pump. Any other suggestions would be helpful. :confuse:
  • Most likely is the fuel pump. Had mine replaced in May and haven't had any trouble since. Good luck.
  • tomchitomchi Posts: 9
    Yep. Fuel pump. Consider the $900 well spent if it gets you going again. It was the most expensive fuel pump I have ever purchased
  • msfitsmsfits Posts: 5
    We had something similar to this happening with our 2011. Ended up having the throttle body replaced last week and it is ok now. It was going to now power, like an idle, while driving, but all functions, i.e. radio, a/c, etc. still working. Husband would coast over to side of road and restart car and it would be fine.
  • Any suggestions. Just got into an accident, totaled the car. It was a stuck throttle :( I called Ford on recall, can anyone help with suggestions.
  • roller4roller4 Posts: 3
    edited October 2012
    ... as a maintenance item?

    New owner of a 2009 Escape Limited AWD 2.5 4 cyl. I've had this vehicle for the last 7 months and it now has 55,000 miles. Just love it, but replacing an intake gasket as a maintenance item is a new one on me. Dealer wants an hour's labor which in my area is $90. What's the deal with that?
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 573
    Check your service schedule in the owner's manual. I doubt if it is listed. Maybe your dealer is saving up to buy a new boat.
  • tomchitomchi Posts: 9
    Did the accident occur after the throttle cable recall repairs?
  • Never received the notice, verified with ford my car was under recall. Looking for expert advice on pursuing recovering of damages. I thought the insurance company would help out, covering cost of car, no other damages.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Was it the alternator?
  • About 4 yrs ago I had the same issue with my 2002 Escape with the 3.0L and about 81,000 miles on it. Tried to start it & it wouldn't go immediately. Hit the key a 2nd time and a loud explosion & smoke erupted from under the hood. Scared the [non-permissible content removed] out of me when it happened. Blew apart the intake manifold & dented the hood from the inside. Cost me about $1100 in used parts to repair & the Ford dealer never did figure out what caused it. Dealer said initially i must have done something wrong to cause the thing to backfire but to this day i still have no idea what went wrong.
  • After hundreds of dollars and replacing all of the mentioned in the original post, the hose did it, I found the bad hose, covered it with tape and it worked! The hose i replaced had a sleeve covering the hole. so it was hard to find.. I guess the sleeve was suppose to protect it. This also caused my gage cluster to go crazy when I accelerated over 55 mph. This was also corrected after replacing the hose. Hope this helps someone else. It was a great tip.
  • our 2011 had similar problem..we found the lurching was the tranny gear hunting. This was corrected by software, and then a loud clunking sound (solenoid in the gear box)
    NOW we had the heating motor switch (circular knob on the left), no heat on #1,#2...easy repair for us...solenoid under the glove compartment.
  • noted this sound in the last few month, conveniently after the 60K warranty expired. Accelerates & brakes fine (except for the grunt sound just as you stop). My daughter confirmed its not my medication.
    noting the sound occurs when Escape in motion.
  • Most likely the universal joint. I replaced mine on a Mazada Tribute, thumping went away. Easy Fix.
  • Blinking running lights are caused by a faulty "DRLM" Daytime Running Light Module" I've got the same problem. Seems Mazda wants $160.00 for a replacement and all of the part stores I've checked don't even list them. Might be best to go to a wreckers. It is located under the dash about where the drivers knees are. Good luck.
  • sikosiko Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Ford Escape 6cyl bought for my son. As ran well till recently. Now when overdrive kicks in and I start up a small grade it cuts out badly. Once I give it gas and the rpms go up it is fine. If I turn off OD it is fine. Has something to do with the low Rpms. Any suggestions
  • Hi, what hose(s) are you referring to please? Electrical? Which one(s)?

    I appreciate your reply and help with this.


  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 13,581
    Check the sway bar end link. It's a vertical piece about 5 to 6 inches long.
    I had one replaced that was bent. It should be straight.
    You can go to to see what one looks like.
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2017 Ford F-150 Limited
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    edited February 2013
    "Federal safety regulators have opened a new safety investigation into 724,000 Ford Escape, Fusion and Mercury models over reports of sudden loss of most engine power.

    The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration said Monday it has opened a preliminary investigation into the 2009-2011 Escape, Fusion, Mercury Mariner and Milan"

    U.S. investigates 724,000 Ford vehicles for engine problems (Detroit News)

    There's been some throttle body posts in here so if you have an Escape that fits the years, you may want to file your own complaint at the NHTSA (link).
  • computer hiccup? or the filter is clogged?
  • they dont make them like they used to. Take a look at, I could not believe how many parts they make for the big 6.
    yes, U joint needed to be replaced. plus an alignment.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 4,098
    "computer hiccup? or the filter is clogged? "

    Ford confirmed a bad batch of circuit cards for certain 2009 models. The later models are being included out of caution by the NTSB.
  • I own a 2009 Tribute and have noticed some of the same things you report. Any metal piece on my vehicle, front to back, inside or out, seems to be rusting.
    The fixtures which attach the seat to the car as you mention rust. The bolts holding the windshield wipers are rusting. In the rear hatch the bolts sticking up are rusting.
    I have not noticed any water in the front of the vehicle, but the rear seal around the window in the hatch needed replacing (under warranty).
    Seems that the same problems are still there.........unsolved.
  • for car companies, cheaper the better. Most car companies outsource most components, look at the Magna website. Or go to FB and find Mazda, complain online. I have a 2011 Escape, sounds like a Chinese sewing machine, cheap.
  • zpb52zpb52 Posts: 1
    Saturday, my wife took her 2004 Ford Escape V6 in for an oil change at a locally-owned Mobil 1 franchise. The car was running beautifully before she took it in. When she left, she noticed the engine was acting a little funny and the Check Engine light was on, so she wheeled back around to the oil change place and inquired. The technician told her that it's possible some water got in the engine during the oil change or that the oil level hadn't fully been recognized by the car and that could've led to the check engine light, but regardless, she should take the car to their affiliated auto shop a few miles away for a tune-up. They reset the check engine light and sent her on her way, saying that if the light came on again, to take it into their shop to figure out what may be causing it.

    After running a few errands, an hour or so later, her car suddenly wouldn't climb a hill and there was a loud hissing sound coming from under the hood. She pulled over. lifted the hood and noticed that there was an electrical wire hanging loose (we later learned, after some online research, that this was the electrical wire leading to the DPFE sensor).

    We left the car on the side of the road and I took her back to the oil change place, where she proceeded to give the technician a piece of her mind, asking what could have happened and pointing out the unplugged electrical wire in the process. The technician explained that he didn't know of anything they did wrong and that the hissing sound may have something to do with the vacuum seal being knocked loose during the oil change. He said he didn't know what wire we were talking about and why it would have been unplugged. (But anyone who has ever lifted the hood on a Ford Escape would be able to see the DPFE wire unplugged -- it's right on top in the front.)

    We called a tow truck and after talking to the driver for a few minutes, he took a look under the hood and noticed the blown EGR valve ( and told us what it was.

    We had the car towed to a reputable local shop that we've used in the past, and the head mechanic there said he's never seen an EGR fail in this manner since he's been working with them. We did find a photo online of another EGR valve that failed in nearly the exact same manner (

    So -- the question I have is -- Can the unplugged DPFE sensor lead to the blown EGR? Is it possible the DPFE was unplugged accidentally (perhaps knocked loose because of its proximity to the oil well), or would it have to deliberately be unplugged? Why would someone unplug it during a routine oil change?

    We are going to approach the owners of the oil change place once we are billed for the repairs about "making it right", because we fully believe their negligence (or possibly foul play) led to this failure, and we may pursue legal action thereafter if they refuse to cooperate. Any advice on this front would be appreciated as well.

    Any help any of you could provide would be fantastic. Thanks.
  • Except for the oil change I had exactly the same problem. What caused the the DPFE and EGR problem was excessive pressure. What caused the execss pressure was a plugged rear catalytic convertor. What plugged the rear convertor was interior of one of the front converters. What caused the front converter to come apart was excessive heat from burning raw fuel. What caused raw fuel was a misfire on one cylinder due to a failed ignition coil. I have replaced the rear catalytic converter, the EGR valve and the DPFE and am driving the car. I have not yet tackled the front converter.
    Seems pretty likely your situation is the same. There are lots of reports of this occurrence on the web. Ford probably should have reconsidered a utility vehicle that can't sustain a misfire especially one with plugs that are not accessible.
  • My Escape has overheated twice now after the recall fix. There are other complaints about this on the DOT website. Do not buy this car.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 13,581
    So how do you like your Escape other than the overheating?
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2017 Ford F-150 Limited
  • This car reminds me of a prototype. The car isn't integrated yet. The transmission also has lots of issues. It never knows what gear to be in. Perhaps a crappy throttle position sensor? I heard they are now switching out all the MAP sensors on the AWDs. IF explorerx4 is a Ford engineer, I'll do you a favor and come out for a couple of months and work for you for free. You need all the engineering help you can get lol.
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