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Mitsubishi Outlander Tires, Tires, Tires



  • capriracercapriracer Somewhere in the USPosts: 859
    You're trying to do too many changes at once. Verfiy the inflation pressure change before you move on.
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 100
    In NORMAL operation the Active Stability Control (ASC) has overall control of the traction control, anti-lock braking and skid control functions. These control systems can be compromised by improper tire selection (and possibly grossly under-inflated tires!!).

    The ASC can limit your engine speed (as you have noticed) and normally the only reason you might want to switch it off - TEMPORARILY- is if your are stuck in snow, sand or mud and need more revs to help you get out.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 1,007
    I've found it best to always leave the ASC on. I also have General Grabber tires with about 18K on them and they are still performing great in this Wisconsin winter, though this has been a mild one. I have an '07 Awd with 55K.

    Now on my Lincoln LS with rear drive, I need to switch the traction control off frequently to get the tires spinning enough to get the car going. Really makes me appreciate the Outlander, my wife won't even drive the Lincoln in winter.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    I make sure the ASC control is always ON when I am driving above 30 miles/hour regardless of the road surface. The ASC may kick on (light temporarily), I may think, when I am driving at high speed on zigzag roads, covered with snow, rain, mud or gravel. I have experienced this ASC flashing light on the control panel when the vehicle was taken over by the ASC system at high speed and driving dangerously.

    When I am driving at slow speed for more than 15 minutes sometimes I switch off the ASC because I think that I am able to control the car at that speed (regardless of the condition of the road). The advantage of doing this is less consumption of petrol, I think. Nevertheless, please do not take my words as if I were an expert.
  • leand2leand2 Posts: 11
    Thank you for your reply - I have had numerous responses, and follow-up tests by myself. I did have new Generals HTS on all four, noticed rated M + S on wheel - wonder is M rating is also a snow rating. The tire tread depth is quite deeper than the previous General G80's. The reason I pushed hard and firm to floor progressively (did not slam), and entire car concurrently shook (definitely not typical ABS feel/reaction), was car kept sliding up to 5 car lengths. I saw it wasn't responding so thought to keep foot to pedal firm.

    Did check a week after this incident, tire pressures in front both down to 22 from 32. I put in air, saw mechanic next day, said recheck in few days. Now four days later one front 26, and other front 32. Taking it today
  • leand2leand2 Posts: 11
    If you check my note for today, I found after tire pressure of front tires were down to 22 from 32 only 2 weeks after installation and incident, I
    re-inflated them 4 days ago. Checked last night - down to 26 for one of them, the other stayed at 32. I have noticed "slippery road" notice written come on, but I was hardly driving fast - maybe even at 20-30 mph, even in dry road, or rain. Hasn't snowed much last year to recall what happened then.
  • leand2leand2 Posts: 11
    I'm fairly sure these tires are proper - even though not H rating but S, it was explained to me (I contacted several tire outlets), that H rating so high, if car is over 120 mph, so sidewalls are stronger, to prevent blowout.

    I noted to mechanic tire pressure light did not go on after I discovered week after incident, 2 weeks after installation, down to 22 PSI fronts - he said didn't know calibration Mitsi set for it to go off. It could be only when its remarkably more. Makes sense, as other times I could actually see low tires after I noted light on. Said to check tires again, four days later now down to 26 one front, other 32. Bringing it in - any theories why loss?

    Car's reaction during incident definitely not like typical ABS response - whole car thundered. Mechanic explained ABS relationship - would have been better to let foot slight off brakes or all off brakes, then re-apply - would have had better control, and for future events. When I tried 4 experiments on same road that night, also pushed gradually to firm hold (did not slam from start) and car shook. Noticed even slight pressure on brakes made car swerve. (Didn't look at screen to see notices).

    I note your remark re turning off ACS only snow - fortunately haven't had much at all.
  • leand2leand2 Posts: 11
    Thanks - nice to hear someone else has same tires. Here, only 2 snow falls so far, but only this one with Grabbers so shocked they did not work well (though may be due to low 22 PSI loss). I haven't had enough snow to get a traction problem. This car is only a 2WD.
  • leand2leand2 Posts: 11
    In past, of the few snow falls, car automatically down shifted to 2 and 1, a preventative measure to slow car - I thought this would be automatic, but didn't happen during incident nor 4 experiments that night. Mechanic indicated car will judge whether to engage this or not, each time - its not a given. Forgot term/name of this device in manual. Too bad - thought it great for young driver.
  • leand2leand2 Posts: 11
    Thanks so much for your remark re pressure - found new tires - 2 front down to 22 from 32 in only 2 weeks. Put in air, let mechanic know, said check again, 4 days later, one is down to 26, other stayed at 32. Bringing in now to see what's happening. Great clue to the problem!!!!!
  • mayda1mayda1 Posts: 12
    M + S = Mud and Snow..still not as good as snows if you're in a snowy area
    like you are.
  • mayda1mayda1 Posts: 12
    I've got 4 Goodyear Triple treads for my SE. and i've loved them(esp in rain) except for 1 tire which i want to replace as i just think it's out of "round"(vibration no matter what's done)
    Anyway, i've got over 50,000 miles on them and my question is this: can I replace just the two front (where the bad one was last) which would still leave me with 50 k miles on the rears and zero on new ones...or must i replace all 4 because of the mileage difference that would result? thanks for the help someone...P.S. i may try 4 Michelins per Consumer Reports last tire review, but that'll be a $1000+ expense and i just went on a fixed income....thank u
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 100

    Good to hear from you. From your previous posts you've tested the Outlander on difficult South American road conditions that most of us will never see, (even in Southern Ontario!).

    For less experienced drivers though, reliance on ASC to keep out of trouble in tricky road conditions should be good advice even though having the ASC suddenly do its own thing takes a bit of getting used to. As you indicated, the safe thing for drivers in these circumstances is to slow down!
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    The Yokohama tires on my Outlander GT 2010 have reached 23,000 miles and they are ready to be replaced by new ones not necessarily by the same ones.

    I have a lot of praise for these tires. I think they have been very good indeed especially on inhospitable terrain where they were used 90 % of the time. In my opinion, these tires fit nicely with the overall image of the Outlander GT as a capable and reliable 4WD SUV.

    The tires, when they were new, created noise. However it appears nowadays that that noise has diminished, and that phenomenon may be attributed to the natural wearing off of the rubber and the loss of the 7 mm groove depth.

    My new Outlander GT 2012 will kept its OEM tires (i.e. Good Year), but I will buy a set of four Yokohama Geolander A/T-S to bring with me when shipping this car to Norway (Europe).

    I am aware that in the last 2-years brand new tires have appeared on the market and perhaps they may be superior to the Geolander. However, I may say, it can be scientifically demonstrated that if you want tires with good grip in all terrain, the design of the grooves and deepness are essential. If the grooves have an aggressive design (pattern), the tires will be noisier, I think.

    I drove the Outlander XLS 2008 to Alaska (Dead Horse town) with the original tires. Although the road was without tarmac, the road itself was very well maintained. The OEM tires were no match and the overall performance was poor (with the exception of the tire’s noise that was minimal).
    I think, although I have not yet gained experience, that if you want to take your Outlander on inhospitable terrain the best choice may be the combination of tires and wheels, i.e. 215/70R16. Few people will like to have 2, 4-set of alloy wheels at home; for this last situation perhaps 225/60R18 will be useful.

    South American roads (no tarmac) commonly called “ripio” are very hard for any type of tires.
  • iluvmysephia1iluvmysephia1 Manson, WAPosts: 7,237
    why are you going to Norway? Vacation or job assignment?

    2011 Kia Soul Sport 5-speed

  • rcpaxrcpax Posts: 580
    I am looking to buy a set for my 07 as well. But I wonder how these would do in medium snow, like say 3 to 4 in thick. I believe these are not Mountain/Snowflake certified tires, but looking at the tread pattern, it looks like it will hold well on mild to moderate snow storms.

    The other one I'm looking at is the Goodyear Fortera Tripltread, but it's very costly. However, it is mountain/snowflake certified for severe snow storms.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    The “mountain/snowflake certified” I think is manufactured with soft rubber that may be good on snow and icy roads. However, it is most probable that it will wear off rapidly on any type of road other than roads with snow or ice.
  • mayda1mayda1 Posts: 12
    as i've mentioned in previous responses my goodyear assurance triple treads now have 60,000 miles on them with plenty of tread left(90% hwy). 23000k on your yokohamas sounds a bit lame(but they do get good reviews from consumer reports). the triple treads have been great in the wets, not so good in snow even though rated high. it's really a 3 season tire. I purchased hakkepellta (Nokian)studded snows a few years back...and it's true, you get what you pay for (at least in this case). Fantastic in snow(here in VT.), and while not rated that highly in the wets i've had no slipping or sliding at hwy speeds.
    i'm going to switch out to new tires next month. has anyone run MIchelins?
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Sorry to reply late.

    I will be in Norway and Scandinavian countries for about 6-months. From there I will make my way to Moscow (Russia) and tour the south of Russia (e.g. Sochi ski resort).

    I am just an adventurer. I get more of the money from bank loans. During my adventure I rent my house and go away. I am lucky because my wife also like to do the same. My children are adult now, so not commitments. To do what I do is a lot of fun. Live is very short man. I do this before I get serious ill or decrepit.
  • leand2leand2 Posts: 11
    I returned the car to the mechanic - tires checked fine, perhaps inadvertently let out pressure when checking all tires, although did show low psi for front two only, at two gas stations that day. As of now, tires keeping pressure - thanks to all for helping, and will monitor it regularly.
  • iluvmysephia1iluvmysephia1 Manson, WAPosts: 7,237
    I get ya. Sounds like fun. Enjoy!

    2011 Kia Soul Sport 5-speed

  • I have an '07 LS with OEM's (Yokohama's) :) & pushing 27k & 2 on front need replacing now & the other 2 could prob go another 1-2k miles.
  • Just an update on the Yokohama Avid TRZ tires. I turned the car in with over 44k miles on them, and the Yoko's had plenty of tread left. Grip and ride were still consistent.

    Definitely a worthy replacement tire.

    I bought a new 2012 Outlander... still the same Goodyear garbage. I'm starting my new tire fund now, knowing that I'll only get about 26k miles out of them...
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Some people have reported that they've gotten good deals trading in "new" tires on a replacement set of tires, so you may want to ask your local tire shop if they can do that for you.

    Congrats on the new ride!
  • rcpaxrcpax Posts: 580
    I have Yokohama A/T-S on mine, OEM sizing. These tires are just awesome. can't wait for winter. Hopefully it performs well. Wet performance is superb. Drove through a thunderstorm along Lake SHore Dr in Chicago. No problem with hydroplaning at all.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    I will not replace the OEM tires of my Outlander 2012 GT for the Geolandar A/T-S. Presently I am still using the original tires sold with the car.

    The grooves of the Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S ought to be softened or smoothed a bit to decrease the tire noise that is very evident when they are new (perhaps with a few exceptions). Most probably Yokohama will manufacture the A/T-S (which are very good indeed in any weather conditions) with a softer groove pattern (or little less aggressive look).

    I have done a quick search about tires that may have the same grip as the Geolandar but with much less noise. They are: Falken HS-439 (Eurowinter), 225/60R18, $160.00 each; Falken HS-439 (Eurowinter) 225/55R18, $185.00. Equally: the Continental Winter Contact TS 830P, 225/60R18, $282.00 each. The A/T-S 225/55R18 is about $215.

    Reviews about these tires give 4.5 stars (from 5-star excellent) to the Winter Contact and 4.0 for the Falken HS-439 for driving in snow/ice. I do not have any facts about the tire noise, but independent tire testers give both types of tires 4-stars on noise. The same independent testers give the A/T-S 2-3 stars on noise.

    When I bought my 2010 GT I did a deal with my dealership (CEO) where he will buy my OEM tires. I do not remember but I think he gave me $450-$500 for the four tires. I ordered from Tirerack the A/T-S to be shipped directly to the dealer’s address. The dealer balanced the new tires and kept the OEM tires. Remember the tire man will balance your tire with sticking/adhesive weights (5 gm -10 gm weights). The original wheel from Japan came with balance weights of 30 gm -50 gm -70 gm. My wheels (after the dealer returned my car to me) were packed with 10 to 15 little balance weights because they usually do not stock balancing weights above 10 gm. If you do not like the new look of your wheel packed with so many little balancing weights you may order adhesive balancing weights heavier than 10 gr.

    Here are the part numbers: MN103216 (15 gram), MN103217 (20 gram), MN103218 (25 gram), MN103219 (30 gram), MN103220 (35 gram), MN 103221 (40 gram), MN103223 (50 gram).

    You may order these weights before the dealer balances your wheels and give the weights to the tire man when balancing the wheels. If the tire man needs 50 grams to balance one point of your wheel he most probably will stick onto your wheel 5 (10 gram) or 10 (5 gram). You just give him only one 50-gram balancing weight and the tire man will be happy to do it. Talk with the tire man first and make clear to him/her your wishes.

    Tire Rack does not deal with Falken tires so you may need to look for another company, e.g. or discount tires, etc.

    I think good car handling (zig/zag curved roads) depends mainly on the electronics that accompany the car for maneuvering at high speed (e.g. Tarmac, Snow, and Look). I was on Vancouver Island, on my way to Tofino, and it happens that a Subaru Forester (it looked very new) wanted to have a go on those curved roads by harassing me behind my Outlander. The speed limit was 55-60 miles per hour. Light rain was falling (wet roads) on the road. Based on my past experience driving this car I set the car to snow driving and set the cruise control to 50 miles per hour (only to get the Forester out of my sight). I drove the car for about 45 minutes without changing the cruise control setting on these curving roads and after 15 minutes I did not seen anymore the Forester harassing me at all. Suddenly I remembered that my tires were the OEM tires (Goodyear) and not the Yokohama A/T-S!

    Perhaps 90 % of drivability (safety) of the GT rests in its front limited slip differential that the Subaru Forester does not have, even the Outback does not have it. Based on this past experience I may change the Good Year OEM tires after 25K – 30K for the Falken.
  • rcpaxrcpax Posts: 580
    I can tell you right now that the Geolandar A/T-S are actually quieter than Goodyear Eagle LS2 that came as OEM. This was a surprise finding as well as I've expected the Geolandar A/T-S to be much noisier. So I am really happy I got the tires as replacement.I have winter to worry about where I live, so that's why I got the A/T-S.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Sounds like a fun road that I need to hit. Durn, now you have me hungry for a Nanaimo bar. :)
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    edited March 2014
    Outlander GT 2012: 16000 miles

    Today I have installed 5-tires on my 5- full size alloy wheels. My original Goodyear tires are still operational. They still have 2 mm of deepness (groove), and I am keeping those tires for later use.

    I am preparing the car for my next project that consists of driving to Sochi (Russia) for the Winter Olympics in February 2014. I bought 5-tires Falken HS449 (Eurowinter) 225/60R18. The result of changing the OEM tire profile can be sensed almost immediately. The ride is smoother, silent, and consumption of petrol seems to have decreased. Road imperfections are not as noticeable. In summary the ride is much better.

    Each tire has the "winter" logo which is a requirement in some countries in Europe when driving in winter
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606

    Changing the stock tires to 225/60R18 was the best action I did to drive in Russia. The roads in Russia are horrendous with few exceptions near Moscow and St. Petersburg. 10,000 miles of use and they still look very good indeed.

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