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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali
This topic is a continuation of Topic 2658....
2001 Yukon XL/Suburban. Please continue these
discussions here. Thanks!
Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
2001 Yukon XL/Suburban. Please continue these
discussions here. Thanks!
Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
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It's nice to finally see someone from Michigan on this site.
Jerry
color of the Denali with respect to the color
"Pewter"? On the 2000 Yukon, Pewter Ultra Soft
Leather was a Taupe. However, on the Sierra Pickup
SLT for 2001, Pewter Ultra Soft Leather is a light
grey. Which will it be for the tone on tone
seating surface with the Denali. The description on the website is "Yukon Denali and Yukon XL Denali seating surfaces in Flint Gray with darker grey accents and Sandstone with Shale accents." My order sheet, however says Color 922, Pewter. Help, Clifford!
Also, anyone have any definitive information as to
whether they are building any Denali's as of this
writing, presumably in Janesville, WI? My TPW has slipped from 11/6 to 11/13 to 11/27. Thanks.
He tells me that his queries to GM have resulted in finger pointing, as in, "it's all supplier related problems...but don't worry, they're being resolved as we speak." He said that in truth we probably know about as much as he does.
He did say that if you absolutely have to have a car within 90 days, "tell the salesman to keep his nose in the locator and that he agree to make the customer the same offer on dealer-trade vehicle...and, if necessary, be a little flexible on color and/or some of the options."
It sure makes it convenient. When I have a question, I just get online, and get an answer w/o the run around or the head scratching!
Thanks
I was at Pat Moran in Rochester Hills on Thursday of last week and they had 5 on the lot. 3 3/4 ton and 2 1/2 ton units. If I am remembering it right, 1 was a 3/4 ton with 8.1 in blue with the SD1.
Let us all know when yours comes in and how it looks.
I want to close by telling you all that a salesman at the GMC Truck Center in Alameda, CA told me that I was by far the most educated potential buyer he had had in his showroom. He said I knew more about what was on constraint, etc. than he did. That's only because of this site. I've said it before and I'll say it again that those who post here are great and I appreciate all the info I get here! Kim
I know that some of you are concerned about opening it in the garage but
A: mine opens fine (try one at the dealer and you will see that it opens almost straight out...I am 6'4" and can still stand under it)
B: you can also just open the glass and not the entire door for light/small objects which gives you even more clearance
just my opinion
Just ordered a K2500, 8.1L with Autoride and 4.10 rear myself. I had the same question. The Autoride is totally automatic and cannot be turned on or off. My understanding is that on the 3/4 ton models, Autoride affects shock damping only and does not include a load leveling feature (available on 1/2 ton models). Therefore, the autoride itself should not interfere with weight distributing hitch setup, however, you may end up with a different ball height with the 2001.
Out of curiosity, what rear gear do you plan to order and what (weight) are you towing. I've been looking for feedback from anyone who has taken delivery of a K2500 w/ 8.1 L, Autoride, etc., but only saw one or two postings. I'd be interested in knowing anything you have heard about the big block.
Rick
BTW...I live in the DFW mid-cities area, and have yet to see a Garnet red Yukon of XL. However I am almost positive I have seen that exact color on some Pontiacs. Interesting .....
Mike/DFW
Thanks for the explanation of the Autoride damping. We have the EazyLift weight distributing hitch that is adjustable in height. I have yet to verify the measurements but assume only a few inches difference between our '96 K1500 and a new K2500.
We plan to order the 4.10. We want the highest GCWR for the Suburban. Would love to entertain the idea of a K2500 with the Duramax diesel and the Allison 1000. Great torque, better gas mileage than the 8.1L and better acceleration when pulling the trailer. Oh well, maybe next year.
I am slightly concerned about the 8.1L and the K2500's transmission. I understand that the system will limit the torque output. Not being a car mechanic, that raises questions in my mind about over working the transmission. Does anyone have thoughts on that subject?
Rick, our current trailer has a GVWR of 6000, with a typical load around 4500. That's okay for our K1500. The next trailer (the next toy is always on the horizon) will be in the 7000 to 8000 GVWR. Thus the reason to be buying a new K2500. A 8000lb trailer should not tax the K2500 with the 8.1L.
Check out some of the postings at http://forums.vmag.com/suvsuburban0900/. There is a fair amount of discussion about the torque limiting controls on first gear by some guys that sound like they know what they're talking about. The 4L80E trans is GM's heaviest trans for this type of vehicle and, in fact, is the same trans they put in motorhomes. I don't think it should be a concern.
I currently have a 2000 Suburban 1500 with the 5.3 L and 4.10 rear. We absolutely love the vehicle but it falls short when towing our travel trailer with a dry weight of 6630 lbs. We bought the Suburban before the trailer and put too much stock in the 8800 lb towing capacity rating. The 1500 can tow the trailer, but there are interstate grades in eastern PA where I can't even hold 50 mph. I also think the 3/4 ton suspension will give us a more solid and secure ride.
I have ordered virtually the same vehicle (colors and options) except it is 3/4 ton with the 8.1L.
Love the view out the back.
yeah, I know I talk too much...my wife reminds me all the time...hoepfully I can help others like I was helped when I was looking a year ago...people like Cliff Martin and many others helped greatly...it seems most drop off the site after they get their vehicle because the problems are basically the same...you would figure that GM could get it together after 15 months or so of production...I came back after months away because I wanted to see if GM had their act together...then I saw a few things that pertained to me and as a 9 month owner I figured I could save some people the time...and now I'm like Pacino in GFIII. "Every time I try to get out, they drag me back in!" Seriously I love the postings. Too bad GM is too big and slow to address all the problems.
Mr. Woodpecker, where are you located? I have to go now, there is a World Series in town that I must attend. I hear the Prez will be there tonite. Anything you want me to tell him?
I (my wife's vehicle) have a expedition with the liftgate. In the Exped, you open the thing and all of your stuff falls out. One thing is for sure, if the Exped didn't have a wiper the rear window would be so dirty that you might as well paint it to match the truck. My barn door Burb's rear glass stays very clean in comparisom. Due to better air flow, the GM's don't "have" to have the wiper. Liftgate=minivan Panel Doors=Truck Of course this is my opinion
jw
2)The torque limiting in 1st gear is not an issue for towing, since you will be in 2nd or 3rd for the steep grades anyhow. The torque in first gear is not bad - even with 1000lbs of trailer tongue weight, you can spin the tires on launch if you are not careful. The 8.1L is very strong on the hills - outpulls the diesels.
3) The acceleration for the DuraMax is not likely to be better than the 8.1L. In tests, the 8.1L beats every time. In the Suburban, the Duramax will be derated even further and will likely be a dog (but gets good mileage).
4) The ball height with 1000lbs equalized tongue weight is about 1.5" to 2" higher than '96 1/2T.
5) The liftgate is the way to go if you can get one. A good compromise between the old tailgate and barn doors. Plenty of clearance for most trailers.
6) When in doubt, go for the 4.10 ratio. If you get the 3.73 and it is not good enough, it is very expensive to upgrade ($1500).
My new Tahoe has the liftgate. It is perfect! A lift of the handle an the gate rises by itself to load. Wiper/Washer mean no need for the deflector my old Sub needed. Ability to open the glass is excellent for light packages or packing the cargo area to the gills. Finally, an unobstructed view out the rear with no blindspots.
Just turned 10k and except for an occasional transmission glitch as reported in these forums, no problems at all.
Thanks
Just kidding...
How about using two or more scales to share the weight with some wood blocks?
For those interested, it has the factory sunroof. salesman informed me that there are no climate controls accessible to the second row seats and that the rear controls are located between the rear view mirror and the sunroof. the controls are manual with fan and temp controls. The front climate controls are on the center dash console.
The earlier discussion with bigkahuna 13 and my dealer make it a clear choice to go without the factory sunroof and put in the aftermarket. The aftermarket, which uses the GM sunroof frame and motor is the way to go. You'll end up w/ "true" climate controls in three locations 1) dash for front seats 2) ceiling near rear view mirror for driver to control rear climate controls and 3) an additional controller (true climate controls) for the rear passengers to control. The driver can lock out the rear controller to avoid pesky little fingers from playing with the rear controls. Hope this helps anyone considering a new Denali and considering the sunroof.
Will update once I get my TPW.
Purchased through my employers' fleet leasing program so got an exceptional deal.
I had the dealer change the LEs to Michelin LTX 265/75R16 before delivery - looks and rides real nice now. did not get much credit for the LEs, but I am happy with the outcome.
Have been watching this board for awhile and must thank all participants for the excellent information and commentary.
Brian.
guarantee of allocation and immed.
order entry. Would call with order
number.
Tues 10/24 no call
Wed 10/25 no call, finally I called at noon and
spoke to sales rep who hem-hawed
around and promised to find out status
and call me back ASAP.
Thur 10/26 no call...showed up unannounced at
dealer and cornered sales rep. When
pressed he could not produce order
number. Listened to lame BS story
about how order procedure "really
works". I made a few negative
references to his character, as well
as my assessment of the dealership,
yanked my deposit, and walked.
Thur 10/26 By 6pm had same deal with another
dealer who appears to have their act
together. We'll see...
Spec note; be sure to pay special attention to "adjustments" line on ProSpec printout...they
vary from dealer to dealer. I found $200.00 diff on one dealers printout.
New dealer; Freeman
750/over + 400 adj
Mike/DW
Could someone explain why they can make one and not the other? Are there any other differences? Should I buy or wait? Price difference is around $100. Thanks for your help.
Put the scale and 4x4 on the ground, so that the distance between their centers is 4'. Put some small scrap material (1x2, 2x2, or similar) in the center of the scale -- this makes the weighing spot the center of the scale, rather than a sloped board resting on the edge of the scale, and can help level out the long 2x4. Put the longer 2x4 across the pivot piece and the scale.
Now you have a ratio scale -- place your trailer tongue 1' from the 4x4, and the scale will read 1'/4' (1/4) of the actual weight; with a 250lb scale, you can measure up to 1000lb. Place the tongue 8" from the middle of the 4x4 and the scale will read 1/6th of the actual weight (8"/48"). 6" from the middle of the 4x4 will result in a reading 1/8th of the actual weight (0.5'/4'), for a limit of 2000lb. Etc. Go weigh an elephant this way, if you can get him to stand on a 2x4. ;-)
Hope that helps, and that I didn't make it too convoluted.
Side note regarding orders/constraints for those still paying attention -- today was my 3rd week trying to order an XL 2500/8.1. Last two weeks hit a constraint on the 8.1 engine. Today, the engine's available but not the autoride. I *don't* *want* the autoride, but it's required with the engine for some reason I still fail to grasp. So the order got bounced again, waiting for an option that I don't want but which is required for the option I won't go without.
It is very frustrating, but if time isn't an issue, your order will go thru. You will be very pleased with the new Suburban or Tahoe. I drive a 1997 Suburban, and the changes in 2001 are definitely tied to a smoother more luxurious ride without loosing it's functionality!
By the way, I saw some of the posting showing prices of $750 over invoice. I sell Suburbans and Tahoes for $400 over, and we have trailers that deliver them all over the country.
since the GMC media site clearly and specifically stated that the sunroof vs. auto climate thing was fixed this year, my theory is that they didn't change anything from the '00s to the '01s. The vehicle was so popular, i wonder if they just rolled through the model change? if you look back at the posts there was hardly a week this summer that someone didn't have a TPW. Hmmm. So that--maybe--explains why it took awhile to get the new colors introduced, and it probably also means that those of us that have bought early '01s probably are not enjoying any of the minor engine upgrades bragged about at the GMC media site, either. By the way: thought I read on Cliff's site that the running boards were being installed at the factory for '01s? Mine and the other unit both had the running boards boxed up and inside the truck--further evidence that the "real" '01s are not coming off the line yet?
Oh well, still can't wait to get in and drive it home!
I am also in the Fort Worth side of the D/FW area and see that you ordered from Freeman. How much/long did you look around for pricing and would you share the name of the dealer that you were first dealing with and then left?
Please keep your progress posted on your order - between you and Cliff's website, I am considering ordering a vehicle for the first time.
I have enjoyed reading this post over the past few months and I am getting close to ordering my family our Christmas present in time to go skiing.
Thanks to all who take time to share with us "rookies" out here.
Dejected, I went in the house and whined to my wife that I really wished it would start...just once...so I wouldn't have to have it towed to the dealership. As I went outside to try one last time, she said a prayer and...a miracle...it started! I drove it to the dealership where it sits, waiting for Monday and the service department to open.
Bummed in Bossier City
Steve
Sounds like you've found another bad crankshaft sensor. There have been several reported on this list recently. Bad news is that the dealers didn't seem to have this part in stock.