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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • oj619,

    Have a similar situation with my 2001 Yukon XL. I have been unable to find any assistance.

    If you a reolution, please share with me.


  • chewie65chewie65 Posts: 5
    I have the same issue with a 2002 Chevy Trailblazer.

    Did you ever find the location of the sensor?

    Does anyone have access to service manual so I can trace wires and connections?
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Just did another family vacation, this time to the Gulf coast, about 1000 miles round trip, in our 2005 Yukon XL. Averaged 20.2 mpg, according to the trip computer. In my experience, this thing is usually about 1 mpg high, so actually I think we were right around 19 mpg, with 2 adults, 3 kids, and mucho luggage. I was pretty happy to get the advertised highway mileage considering the load and most of the time was at 70 mph. Long trips in our previous vehicle, a Nissan Quest van, we did about 23 mpg, so it's not that much worse driving an SUV after all.

    I am very pleased with this vehicle for long trips. It's very comfortable, with plenty of room for everyone and our stuff. Two kids in the thrd row, one in the middle, and an empty middle row seat for my wife or me to sit in back and play games with the kid or hand out snacks from time to time. There is surprisingly little road and wind noise. The rear end never sagged under all the weight. I'm guessing we're using maybe half the maximum payload capacity of this thing. We don't tow or go off road as of yet, but it's comforting to know your vehicle is over-qualifed and can handle whatever you throw at it. We saw many smaller cars sagging from the weight of 5 passengers, with all kinds of amateur-looking containers roped to the roof. (You see a lot of that in South Texas...) And we saw a lot of regular length Tahoes and Yukons with roof or hitch mounted cargo carriers. It's sure nice to just be able to fit it all inside of an XL or Suburban. We even folded down one center bucket seat so we could take to dogs in their travel case to the kennel on our way out of town. Didn't have to make two trips for that.

    Now that we're spoiled, we wouldn't dream of going back to something smaller.
  • Naligirl,
    You should read a little deeper in this forum. Appears YOU are the only one being serviced by GM. Note the individual who JUST bought a truck and feels he is getting nothing from the dealer or GM. I wonder if someone in your family has something to do with this failing car company as I said you appear to be the ONLY satisfied customer here. BTW GM's sales are down over 25% for the month. Maybe the car they are giving you can boost up there failing lineup. Best of Luck! Yukon No Truck
  • pjreillypjreilly Posts: 2
    Yesterday I noticed that my rear window on my 2003 Yukon XL wasn't closing properly. As I investigated further, the hinge is sealed with some type of plastic coating, and this had pulled away, and is now totally seperated from the Hinge. Will an epoxy resin work or will I need to replace the entire rear window? Please help
  • naligirlnaligirl Posts: 9
    Again, I am sorry for those who are not getting satisfactory resolution. I can only recommend that people with on going problems find out who the GM Service Rep is for the dealership they bought their car from. Get his/her name and number and contact them directly. Be prepared to provide them with a print out of all your service records from the dealership they can review. Possibly even leave them with the Service Mgr at the dealership and ask that he hand them over to the GM Rep upon his next visit. (Definitely call the GM Service Rep and let him know you've left them for him) My dealer's GM Rep is in once a week. It shouldn't take long to get the records to their attention. Let them know that you want a buy back. I can only tell you how it worked for me. Lastly, I was professional and matter of fact about it all. I wasn't threatening or emotional. I don't know if that helped or not, but I'd guess it had some influence.
  • blaxtonblaxton Posts: 1
    I did a really stupid thing. First, here's the not stupid part: the OE jack that came w/my Yukon stopped working (the extension wouldn't telescope back down), so my wife bought another jack at Wal-Mart. I put on the spare and threw the damaged tire in the back to have our mechanic in Atlanta fix it (we were at our house in N.C. when the flat occurred)......Now, here's the stupid part: when I put the new jack in, I thought to myself, "Oh, all I need is the lug wrench, since I have a new jack." I threw the old jack AND the jack handle extensions in the trash. You saw it coming: now, I have no way to mount my spare back underneath the YXL. Really dumb. Here's my question: can anyone suggest a way OTHER than trolling junkyards to find a handle extension? Thanks!
  • nlarenlare Posts: 1
    I had the exact same thing happen on my 03 Yukon XL today. This seems like a design flaw, or a manufacturing defect. We hardly ever use the window only open it surely didn't wear out. Any one out there know the solution?
  • I went to Home Depot and got the strongest 2 part epoxy I could find, and took the entire window off the vehicle. I had to remove some of the previous bonding material to make the window hinge fit flush like it was originally. I then applied the epoxy all over the entire hinge. It set up and dried within 1 hour, and I reinstalled the window, and have not had any trouble since (knock on wood). 1 Tip dont try to reinstall the window yourself, get someone to help you it makes it much easier. I was unfortunately by my self that day and into the early evening. But with a little luck I got it. Hope this helps
  • If its the same as my 2000, you can hear it outside of the vehicle.

    Fuel Pump.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Hi, everyone. As you've probably noticed, we have been trying to refine the discussions into more narrowly focussed topics. Our objective is twofold. We want to make it easier for people seeking specific information about their vehicles to find it easily and without having to wade through hundreds or thousands of postings.

    To those ends, we will be shutting down the general make/model discussions and work exclusively with specific issues. This requires us to populate the make/model subsections with relevant, interesting and timely topics. Rather than having the hosts simply create boilerplate topics for each make/model, we feel that you, the owner, the make/model enthusiast and the prospective buyer can best judge what those topics should be.

    You can help by adding a discussion (it's easy!) or suggesting one here.

    To add a discussion, click on the last link in the "You are here" line at the top of this page. That will take you to the topic page for this make/model. Review the list of topics and click on the "Add discussion" link when you've decided what topic you'd like to add. Follow the directions and you're done! Feel free to add more than one. Just avoid duplicating existing topics and try not to make it TOO specific!

    Your help and continued participation in the Forums is greatly appreciated! Thanks.
  • I recently bought a 2004 Yukon XL SLT with 17,900 miles. I think I got a pretty good deal on it but I am concerned with the mileage:engine hours ratio. At 17,900 the engine hours read 744, which gives you an average of 24 MPH. I don't know if there is such a thing as and national average
    but 24 MHP seems pretty low. The deal went fairly easy and the car was priced at least a couple thousand less than others with comparable stats. I know it's tough to screw with the odometer but something bugs me about this car. Runs good, smells good and I love the vehicle. I suppose that if I didn't have the hour meter it would not have occurred to me. Any comments please.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Sounds reasonable, if the previous owner had a lousy commute. I bet my average is not much higher on weekdays. You really can never know, they may have idled in park for long periods. A lot of men sit in the car with the AC running while waiting for their wife to come out of a store. And the school down the road from me has so many moms waiting in their cars, I guess nobody rides the bus any more. They start lining up a good 30 minutes early and sit there with the engine idling until school lets out.

    It's logical that stop and go, slow driving, is tougher on the vehicle than all highway miles. But a 2004 with only 17,900 seems fairly low to me actually. I wouldn't worry about it. There's a risk you take with any used car, but the money savings probably more than outweighs it.
  • I have a 2001 Yukon XL 4wd w/ a 3.73 rear end. The rear end has some noise and the dealer told me it's likely the ring and pinion gear needs replacing. The car goes into the dealer this week. Since the rear end needs to be rebuilt could I switch to a 4.10 rear end? Would I have to do something to the front end differential since it's a 4wd?

    thanks in advance for any advice
  • Hi there I am new here as well.. the trim is supposed to be wood and it says "Black Cherry Woodgrain" imdeed. There is a company that actually makes after market manufacturer matching trim for the Yukon XL Denali

    I also have my own problem which I hope someone can help me with.. I own a 2004 Yukon XL Denali with the same color trim as described above. Now, on the ashtray cover and cupholder cover, silverish mat finish just started to peel off..I can actually wipe it away with a damp cloth. I was told that this is a common problem that is also evident in Hummers. It seems to me that this is a manufactuerers defect and there should be a recall ?? Does anyone have further information regarding this or know how to fix it ?

    thanks !!
  • rerrer Posts: 1
    I own a 2001 Denali with 58,000 miles. It was always well maintained with oil changes every 3,000 miles. It started using oil at about 50,000 miles using a quart of oil between oil changes. It has now progressed to using a quart of oil every 500 miles. No leaks are present. GM suggests that this may be "normal" for an engine with that amount of milage. I find it unbeliveable! I paid a world class price for the vehicle, I expect a lot better performance that this. I've owned many GM vehicles going back to the '60s. The Denali is the absolute worst. If this is the best GM can do, they deserve to go out of business. Certainly, my GM owning days will soon be behind me.
  • jjobevjjobev Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Yukon XL with appox 50K miles. When ever I go over bumps I hear a squeaking sound. I had a 2000 yukon xl that made a similar sound. The 2002 model did not always make the sound. The dealer said they could not locate the cause of the problem and I did not press them very hard on it. I sometimes also hear the sound as soon as I take my foot off the breaks (for instance at a stop sign). Has anyone else experienced a similar issue? I also have BF Goodrich All Terrain tires. Since I have had the problem on two vehicles, I would imagine it has to be fairly common. Thanks
  • I recently bought a 2006 Yukon Denali XL with Air Ride Suspension. I took it to a Les Schwab shop that does tires and Lowering. They used an H & R Lowering kit which consisted of torsion keyes, dropped springs etc. Truck looks cool but they couldnt lower the rear anymore. Its supposed to be a 3 inch drop. Then I did some research on lowering kits. SOme sites recommended that I should replace the premium shocks with standards. Then I called another shop and the tech guy said that most likely the job wasnt done right and the sensors need to be repositioned. He said if I change the shocks and the truck drops, the sensors are going to tell the computer to lift, and the compressors are going to be on all the time. I need help to what I need to do. I called the shop where I got the work done and they said its normal which I think is a lie. Has anyone dealt with this before? What can I do??????
  • They call it a 6 door because the back cargo area has 2 doors that open up!
  • awf_axisawf_axis Posts: 136
    I've never heard of H & R. Most popular kits already address the rear position sensor by providing a shorter rod, or a tool to put a 90 degree bend in it.

    In my case, I did a lowering on my own by replacing the springs (2 jacks), and simply moved the sensor along the control rod (over the little bump), and was able to dial in the perfect level. I also rethreaded the rod onto the other side. You have to look at the sensor to understand. Basically, you're moving the mounting point on the rod away from the front of the vehicle, which has the same affect as shortening the rod, thus fooling the computer into allowing the lower ride.

    McGaughy's kits have you bend the rod, Hotchkiss (mine) provides a shorter rod. The last resort is changing the shocks from stock because the computer will have a fit.

    The cleanist kit I think is from Ground Force. It has both a rod replacement AND shock extenders, which keeps the normal travel on the shock the same as stock, while providing the drop.

  • glevittglevitt Posts: 30
    I spent the better half of a day trying to get the old cable out from behind the dash and through the firewall to no avail...I couldn't even get a stereo shop or the dealer to do it for a reasonable price. I ended up getting a new antenna and splicing its cable to to existing cable running through the firewall with gold-plated coax connectors, after that I wrapped it in electrical tape and tucked the slack under windshield in and existing wire harness. It works great and it only cost me about $5.00.
  • Hello, I have a 2001 yukon xl denali and I had the same problem. It turns out it was the accelerator pedal and also the accelerator pump. At the time my truck was under warranty, the total cost was about 750.00. I had to pay 200.00 out of that but the problem was corrected.
  • dplattdplatt Posts: 2
    I just bought the latest disc for the 2004 system for about $200 from GM after recieving an add in the mail for the replacement disc. A year ago I tried to get the replacement from the dealer parts department and they wanted $346.
  • well got my gold mist yukon xl yesterday,,,it will soon have it work out,i work in mexico and the roads are not the best in the world,about 50% of the time ill be on dirt roads,so ill be proving it real well,,,i traded a avalanche 2006 for it,,the reason i traded is because of the many problems they are having with the transmission,,i sure didnt want to be stranded down there with it,,,on the avalanche clubs there is some one posting about every day with transmissions going out,,the front sprag breaking,,,so this is my first post and i hope every one good motoring,,,abuelito
  • The 07 Denali (900 model) comes standard with the tow package (at least mine did as per the window sticker). The receiver is hidden behind a plastic bumper cover.
  • Nope. 95,000 miles and only a failed driver's side seat heater failure (fixed under warranty). That's why there are so many Yukons/Denali's out there.
  • i have a new 2007 yukon xl and i would like to change out the arm rest console,,it is the armrest console on the bench type seats,that goes up or down,,well it has no lid that you can open or close,its open with cup holders and an open tray,,,i would like to change it to the type where it has a lid that opens and closes,,its easy to change out just 2 bolts,,,,any ideas where to buy a armrest console,,thank you abuelito
  • you guys know were exactlly are located this temp sensor under the bumper???

    my mirror always display a 0° F
  • Help! We've been trying to register my wife's Yukon for months now. The Service Engine Soon light won't clear and stay cleared.

    First it gave a "small evap leak" code. Found and fixed that. Then it gave a "PO 141 O2 Sen Heater Circ Malfunc (Bank 1 Sen 1) and PO 141 O2 Sen Heater Circ Malfunc (Bank 1 Sen 2)" code. I think that's right. Since my wife couldn't drive my truck so I could take hers to the shop again the shop provided the sensors and I put them in.
    Yay, cleared the code, for 15 miles.

    This time we got "PO 141 O2 Sen Heater Circ Malfunc (Bank 1 Sen 2) and PO 141 O2 Sen Heater Circ Malfunc (Bank 2 Sen 2)". The mechanic said the sensors must be defective. I left the Bank 1 Sen 1 in place and replaced sensor 2 on both banks.

    Cleared the code and the light stayed off for about 25 miles.

    Now it shows "PO 141 O2 Sen Heater Circ Malfunc (Bank 1 Sen 1) and PO 141 O2 Sen Heater Circ Malfunc (Bank 2 Sen 2)"

    We've used Denso sensors. Any ideas of causes?
    The mechanic said he recently replaced a computer in an '01. that was $400 used or $900 new. Any cheaper fix?

    Thanks for your help.
  • We have a 2000 Suburban with the 5.3. We installed a Whipple Supercharger when the vehicle was new and have had 95,000 trouble-free miles. It has been the best aftermarket performance enhancement item we've ever purchased. It puts the 5.3 at around 400 hp . - Not sure about the torque.
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