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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    They dropped the rear moldings and the little one between the rear door and wheel well because they were planning on dropping it on the '03 model so it would save some cash. The main reason for dropping the moldings is because of the addition of the 4 wheel steering system, and with the moldings in place the flares would not fit, so they re designed the rear door molding and deleted the others. If you look they dropped the rear moldings on the Yukon too. If you want the finished look you can order the '01 molding, and for the '03 with 4 wheel steering you can order the '01 Yukon molding to finish it off.
  • My 2002 LT 2-wheel drive is shown here on Edmunds as weighing in at 4,914 lbs. The 2003 model shows up at 5,323 lbs. Did the 2003 model gain 409 lbs.? The fuel economy did not change at 14/18-- so I am wondering if the weight really increased.
  • jdgoatjdgoat Posts: 19
    I currently have an extended cab pickup and am about to trade it in on a 2002 Suburban LT with rear bucket seats and optional liftgate. Since I also do some remodeling and hauling I was wondering if anybody knows if a 4 x 8 sheet of drywall/plywood fits in the Suburban with the liftgate closed. I measured the length and it looks too close to call. Thanks for your help.

  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    It should. That is the benchmark used for all large SUVs. Obviously the 3rd row would need to be removed and the second row would need to be folded.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I have a YXL with 2nd row bench and liftgate. I have had 4 X 8 drywall and plywood in the back a few times, but you can only go up to the top of the little side walls and still be able to close the door because of the body curve, that is the same for the cargo door model too. Welcome to the club!
  • mohrmhmohrmh Posts: 2
    I have spec'd out and received bids on a 2003 Suburban C1500LS. I'm hesitating on placing the order relative to concerns over quality. From web sites such as I've discovered concerns about units made in Mexico. My question is: can you specify the country of origin for the Suburban that you order? Also, has anyone had any issues with their 2002 Mexico produced Subs? Apparently the VIN starts with 3 if Mexican made. Direct contact email is
  • hrhauserhrhauser Posts: 22
    As an owner of a 2000 Yukon XL made in Mexico with 33000 miles on it, the only problem that GM has is the brakes, vacuum boosted, as of 2003 they are coming out with hydro boost, it is suppose to be on my 2003 Denali, that should make it stop much better. Other than that no problems with Mexico quality, brakes were a plant wide problem, not just Mexico.
  • The parking brake on my 2000 1500 4X4 has decided to stop holding the vehicle. The front and rear disc pads still look good. I've been too lazy to pull the rear discs to get at the parking brake drum, and have a hard time believing they'd be worn out this soon anyway. My conclusion is that the automatic adjuster, if any, is not working.

    The Helm OEM manual says that the parking break can be adjusted as follows:

    1. Make sure the parking brake adjustment key is not in place.
    2. Pump the parking brake three times.

    What is the parking brake adjustment key? Helm seems to suggest that it's on the foot lever mechanism, but I can't seem to find it.

    If you've come across this and know how to adjust the parking brake, please drop a reply. Thanks.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Another solution is to remove the adjuster nut at the cable spliter (drivers side near rear door), add several large nuts or stack washers over the threads, then reinstall the adjuster nut. This has the effect of shortening the cable or giving more adjustment. This is a three hand job so one will need help to pull the assembly to the rear enough to catch the adjuster bolt. My adjuster nut was run all the way up from the factory. The dealer wants $100.00 to pull the rear wheel and adjust the shoes inside the rear rotors. This worked for me ('00 Silverado EC 5.3l)
  • I used GM Buy Power to identify dealers to purchase my 2000 Suburban. Several dealers responded, but most were not serious about making the sell. They just wanted to get me on the lot so that they could start the "jerk around" process dealers are famous for. However, one dealer that did respond was very serious and we cut our deal within ten minutes of starting our conversation. Funny thing was, he worked for a dealer that I had vowed I'd never buy a vehicle from because they had such insulting advertising!

    From my experience, GM Buy Power was not much use. When I buy again next year, I'll call the Fleet Manager directly and set up a meeting on a weekday morning or evening when the lot rats are not around, cut the deal quickly, and be on my way. I purchased several Toyotas this way and essentially purchased my Suburban this way (the GM Buy Power contact from the dealer was the Fleet Manager) and it has worked the best for me.

    Oh, by the way, the dealership where I said I'd never shop (but ended up buying from them anyway) is Rotolo in Fontana, CA. The Fleet Manager was Brian R. and he was very accommodating and truly gave me no BS. He cut to the price in just a few minutes and actually kept me informed throughout the order fulfillment process (I was amazed). He get's first crack at my next purchase (despite the dealership's insulting advertising!).

    Unfortunately, the Service Department at Rotolo has used the jerk around process on me, so I don't go there for any service at all. Too bad they don't follow Brian's lead.
  • xyz71xyz71 Posts: 179
    I used it 2 times - Paid invoice plus $50 Document fee on a 2001 Tahoe from dealer stock, ordered a 1999 Silverado for $250 under invoice.

    Sent one E-mail around 5:00 PM Friday - got a response Saturday morning that said they had 15 Tahoes in stock that meet my requirements. Got to dealership around 10:00 AM - my wife changed our minds on what color we wanted (LOL) - took 30 minute test drive- signed papers - handed them a check and was home by 12:30.
  • For all those who have already purchased 2003 tahoes or suburbans: Have you incurred any problems with the new AC controls, stereo, steering wheel controls, etc. These components are carryovers from the problem prone Trailblazers. Looking to discover any issues with the 2003's.
  • I have 8,000 on what I guess is my 6th or 7th Burb....and it (as was several others) was made in Mexico.

    To date I have not had any warranty work done on the 02 and finish were excellent!

    This was not the case of others...the worst one I owned was a 4x4 made right here in the USA.

    Only real "quality issue" I had on another made in Mexico was greasy footprints on the carpet (this is how is came off the truck).
  • I know that some of you have had this problem and there is now a fix for it. Here it is-

    Rear Wiper Jumps When Fog Lamps Turned On (Connect Auxiliary Ground to Rear Washer Pump) #02-08-43-001

    Rear Wiper Jumps When Fog Lamps Turned On (Connect Auxiliary Ground to Rear Washer Pump)

    2000-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL)

    2002 Cadillac Escalade

    Some customers may comment that the rear wiper jumps when the fog lamps are turned on.

    Electrical feedback from the fog lamp circuit into the ground of the rear window washer pump may cause this condition.

    To perform this correction, you will need to obtain the following items:

    * A J 38125-B Terminal Repair Kit. Obtain the following parts from the kit.
    o P/N 12077411 (Terminal) from tray #2
    o P/N 12089496 (Ring Terminal) from tray #5
    * A 508 mm (20 in) length of Black, 0.5 mm (20 gauge) or 0.8 mm (18 gauge) wire
  • Why can't GM follow Chrysler's lead in ridding of old technology like recirculating ball power steering system and use rack and pinion in their trucks and SUV's.
  • Does anyone know if any 2000 and newer 3/4 ton
    XLs or Subs are assembled in America.
    I've been looking for a month and haven't found one yet.
  • Can ne1 tell me what this noise is? If i turn the steering wheel to the left or start going from a stop position, I hear a pop sound. Sort of like a CV joint going bad. At first, I could hardly notice it but it now does it everytime i turn the wheel left or start from a start position? I have a 2000 Yukon XL
  • I have a 2000 Yukon XL. At about 40 mph there is this God awful rumbling sound like the bass of a surround sound stereo. Then is goes away after 45-50 mph. I talked the the dealer sd it might be motor mounts. Something to do w/ harmonic....?
    Is someone having this problem too? What is it?!
  • We are trying to find a solution to the rapid decay of the front disc brakes on my father-in-laws 1999 C2500 Suburban. Evidently the problem came when Chevy switched from asbestos brakes to a softer shoe. We change the brakes out every 8,000 to 10,000 miles. He knows this is CRAZY!

    We executed the Safety Bulletin from Chevy and are getting another 2k per brake set, but this still is not what we expect.

    Does anyone know of a solution from inside the GM parts store? Or a solution from an aftermarket product that we could bolt on?

    Thanks for any help you can give.
  • I have a 2000 XL with rear lift gate. The terminal for one of the coiled wires from the door header to the rear window defroster has broken off. The dealer searched for repair instructions or a repair kit, but was unable to find any. Apparently this cannot simply be soldered or glued back on. The only option I've been presented with so far is to replace the entire rear window glass for over $550. Anyone else experience this problem or have any other solutions?
  • I soldered mine back on. It was on a Dodge van not my YXL. Try another dealer or try and pursue it under the 3/36 warranty. Tell them you just opened it and it popped off. If nothing else works try going to a glass shop. They will tell you that they can re solder it, but the high heat concentration can break the glass and that they are not responsible if it breaks. I you can't find any place to fix it then give your insurance company a call, your comprehensive coverage should take care of it minus your deductible.
  • 1/2 ton GM trucks have been using rack and pinion steering since 1999 new body. The 3/4 ton and higher get the old re circulating ball gearbox, simply because it can handle the heavy duty demands of the 3/4 ton and up need to keep from beating itself to death.
  • I am talking to a couple dealers about a 2003 Z71 with convenience package, liftgate, sunroof, side airbags and full-feature front seats. Total MSRP is $47,262 with Destination Charge. Invoice is listed at $41,340 on Edmunds (with TMV of $43,496) Can anyone suggest what I might reasonably offer? There are enough dealers around here (Baltimore/Washington) that if I can come up with a good number (for me and for them) chances are one of them will take it. I much prefer to go in with a price that I am gunning for (with out trying to rip anyone off) than play the back and forth game. Thanks in advance for your help!
  • You have nothing to lose. If you ORDER a new vehicle, the dealer will get his 'holdback' ( approx 3% ) for an hours worth of paperwork. Check out this web site:
  • I purchased a 2002 XL back in October 2001. During that first winter season I skied once a week in the mountains. Colorado uses magnesium chloride to combat snow and ice on I-70. After only 6 months, all side chrome, front grill, and Yukon insignias were rusty. GM replaced all chrome including both bumpers with no hassles.

    The 2nd ski season I made it a point to wash the truck after every trip into the mountains. The side chrome and grill are rusting once again. GM now says its not their problem. It is residual damage - the owner's responsibility. I believe the chrome should be more resistive to corrosion and rust. The 3rd ski season is about to begin!

    I owned a 97 Yukon. I rarely washed it during ski season. It never had a rust problem.

    Has anybody else had rusty chrome problems? Any suggestions on how to deal with GM? Pleasantries are getting me nowhere. I'm to the point where I will hang a sign in the window advertising "Rusty Chrome Proudly Provided by BURT GMC".
  • ...they are a Chevy dealer in Ravenel, SC just south of Charleston, SC.. and do $98 over invoice.. when you get to their site.. do a ' New Inventory' search by clicking on the link... then go thru the drop down menus.. first.. Chevy.. then Subn.. it will list ALL the Subn's they have in stock... right now they have two '03 Z71 Subn's showing.. they list the selling price.. then the List price..

    they treated me well.... I live north of the Myrtle Bch area just into NC about 125 miles away from them ... I took their price and negotiated with my local dealer for my wife's '01 4wd LT Subn in 4/01.. two months later my dealer couldn't locate a '01 Z71 for me .. I checked with Marchant.. they had it..gave me their $98 over invoice price plus deducted my $1K Subn Loyalty rebate plus deducted a $1K Dealer Cash-only discount.. so I got the Z71 $2k below they took back my '99 Subn on that specialty early lease turn in deal that Chevy had going last year.. I was happy... my local dealer couldn't produce so I went elsewhere..

    if nothing else, the Marchant site is good for comparing what prices should be.. nice folks and pleasant to deal with... if it matters, the same family also owns Ravenel Ford about a mile south of Marchant Chevy in Ravenel .. they do the same type pricing on all Fords.. $98 over ALL rebates and cash incentives go to the buyer.. no add-ons, etc

    good luck

  • I'd be interested in any follow ups to post 2426. I'm doing the exact same trip, and since the grille and side mouldings are plastic with a thin coating of "chrome" I expect similar type damage. With OEM grilles at $300 and change, this could get expensive. Any other states out there using this? Any problems in your area with similar trim/grille issues
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    How close to Wilmington NC are you??? I was there lst Feb for a few days - and have a friend in the area there. Stayed at Wrightsville Beach and enjoyed it very much. Didn't see your Z71 though!

  • We were on vacation 600 miles away from home and had engine trouble. To make a long story short the Chevy Dealer told us we had a cracked block and it would cost between 5300 and 6300 for a new engine. We had 68,000 miles on it and were told there was no warranty left. We had pretty much always serviced it at our local dealer and are stunned at this happening.

    Now that we are home I am wondering if anyone knows where we can go for factory assistance. I prefer names over just calling in and complaining.

    Any assistance would sincerely be appreciated.

    Thank you
  • I'm at the NC-SC state line about 45 miles south of Wilmington and about 20 miles north of Myrtle Beach..

    here's my wife's Blk '01 'burban and my white '01 Z71 'burban

    we were up in Wilmington yesterday 'shopping'.. darn place is getting super crowded in that College Rd area.. whew.. :)
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