Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

GM Speedometer lawsuit filed



  • So I have read everyones problems. I have a 2005 Tahoe 67,000. Of course speedometer is out and I don't want the wife driving it as she will use the excuse when she gets pulled over for going 95 mph because the spedo reads 55 mph. I know this because she writes checks regardless of the balance in the account because she has checks left " Ouch!!!" sorry!!! anyways.. found this fourm. looked up the vin... I was good... called the dealer... He said bring it in.. I did.. I pick it up tomorrow... I will let you know if there is any BS associated with this... I know it can't be this easy...
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    Will you email me your case number?
    GM Customer Service
  • dagemdagem Posts: 13
    I was at Watson's Chevy here in Tucson, saw the new Silverados and was really close to making a deal for a 2011 Crew Cab LS or LT, and we were my wife's 2005 Chevy Impala with 45k miles on it, and the speedo started acting funny, the other gauges soon followed - this was during our week test drives - GMC vs Chevy vs Ford - my poor wife (sorry sweetie I'll pick one soon!)

    We talked to the service dept, they said car wasn't covered, buy a new one and they would put it in, so for $500 and a crappy attitude they sent me over to Holmes-Tuttle Ford. No deal reached that day for the 2011 F-150 XLT Super Crew, but GM has knocked themselves out of my truck shopping. The Silverado/Sierra transmission problems weren't giving me warm fuzzy feelings either.

    Sorry GM if this is how you stand behind your customers over a safety issue, No Thanks. I realize this car has 45k miles, but if GM won't make them well enough to last until you are ready to trade them in, why bother?

  • If you guys ever have problems with your speedometer I know a guy in miami that charges $200 bucks to repair it. He said it's a common problem with GM Chevy GMC and Hummers . He repaired all of my speedometer gauges for $260 bucks and now its like new again. He charges $200 for two gauges and charges $20 bucks for each additional gauge. He also replaced the blown out bulbs for the backlighting. I found him in thejuicylist dot com and he says he posts on backpage also. He comes to you and does it right on the spot. hope that helps you guys if your in the south florida area
  • We have had extreme difficulty getting GM to follow through with responses on the repair for my boyfriend's Tahoe. He's been dealing with this issue & various levels of GM Customer Service for well over 10k miles now. We've been told that we were going to get called back; but didn't. Could you help, Christina? It's maddening to not have your speedometer work!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252

    I apologize for the problems you have experienced with your vehicle. Does your boyfriend currently have a case set up with GM Customer Assistance? If so, could you please email us the case number? I would like to look further into your situation.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • ygrizygriz Posts: 1
    My 2003 Tahoe also has the defective instrument panel cluster.

    First, the Customer Service department will insist you go to a Chevy dealer to have the problem "diagnosed." The dealer wanted $120 to do the "sweep test" Realize this is a 6-10 minute test where the dash is put through a test sequence and they can see if the needles react correctly. The "Executive Office Customer Care" said they would "try" to help once I got it diagnosed. Of course the result was "defective instrument panel cluster" After many e-mails, phone calls, trips to dealerships and time wasted the Executive Customer Service Agent stated that there was nothing GM would do. :mad: Luckily I have a choice in my next vehicle purchase.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252

    I apologize for the problems you are experiencing with your vehicle. Could you please email me your case number? I would like to look further into your situation.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • I have a much older suburban, a 95, and at 415,000 miles my speedometer
    started acting up and it was sometimes interfering with shifting as well.
    I ordered a Trans./Speedometer sensor and it fixed my problem. I think the
    sensor was $53.00, im in Mi. GM should definetly make it right for this design prob.
  • ricklemkericklemke Posts: 1
    I too am having the same problem as many of the fine folk here. My Speedometer and tachometer are no longer working. I won’t get into the other issues I’ve had with my Tahoe, that’s for another time and forum.
    I took my 2004 Tahoe in, while still under warranty, to my local dealer here in Santa Clarita CA to have the problem fixed. The dealer said they would need my car for the day. Not a big deal considering they were going to fix the problem under warranty, or so I thought.
    They had my car for a full day, then phoned and informed me that they did not have the part in stock. I was told that I would have to bring the Tahoe back once they had the part in stock. I got a call from the dealer about a week later informing me that the part was in stock and I should bring the car in for the repair. Great, I thought. I no longer will need to use my GPS as my Speedometer. I scheduled my Tahoe for the repair and dropped it off. Another full day goes by and I get a call from the dealer informing me that they no longer have my part and will have to reorder it. I will have to bring the Tahoe back for a third time once they get the part in again.
    As most of you can understand, at this point I really feel I am getting the run around. I have taken time out of my busy day to get the car down to their facility for repair, but yet nothing gets done.
    As life would have it, I started a new job. Great to be working, but now I have no time whatsoever. Working 50 plus hours a week and every other Saturday has my schedule full.
    While driving to work one day, I notice that my tachometer is no longer working. So first the speedometer and now the tachometer, great! Okay, I better get this fixed before the rest of the gauges stop working. What next the fuel or temp gauge? Then I am really screwed!!!
    Off to the dealer once again for repairs. Once I get they, the service department informs me that they will no longer cover the repair under warranty due to the fact my car has over 100K miles on it. I explain to the service person what has taken place and that the Tahoe has been in several times before for this issue, but they never fixed it, all within the warranty period. He looked up my service records and saw that I was telling the truth.
    After reviewing my service records, and seeing my Tahoe had been in before for this issue, while under warranty, the service department tells me that I will have to pay $150 for the repair and there is nothing they can do about it due to the fact the car is now out of warranty. Seems a bit unfair to me. They should have fixed the problem when I first brought the Tahoe in, while it was still under warranty, rather then give me the run around they did.
    So now what? Is there anyone I can contact at GM or Chevy to get this issued resolved? Am I stuck paying the $150? Can I just get the part and have it installed elsewhere or even do it myself?
    This whole thing has got me wondering what other recalls are out there from my Tahoe. Not having a working speedometer seems like a real safety issue to me. Are there other safety issues I should be concerned about that Chevy has not informed me of? Is Chevy going to use the same excuse on other recalls saying the car is out or warranty? I guess I will see soon enough.
    Once last thing Chevy, providing your listening
    Treating your customer base poorly and not standing behind your product is really going to affect your bottom line. I know in the next year when I am ready to purchase another SUV I will be considering your competition. In these ever so difficult times with an economy that doesn’t allow us to make financial mistakes I will be looking for a car company that stands proudly behind its product and warranty. I need to have confidence in the products I purchase and quite frankly it’s not currently with you.
  • 2003_z062003_z06 Posts: 7
    We purchased our 05 Suburban Z71 new from the dealership. It was approximately two months AFTER the three year warranty expired that our speedometer completely went out. Of course I called the dealership thinking since the warranty just expired they would honor it. NOPE. They wanted $500-600 back in 2008 to fix it. We went without it and I use a phone app or the GPS for my speedometer. We also noticed the oil gauge is not accurate. After the speedometer went out, so did the lock on the rear driver's side door - it doesn't lock but the alarm will go off if someone opens it while the other doors are locked. I wish I never traded in our 02 Tahoe for this lemon - but then again, maybe something would have gone wrong with it too.

    What is really disappointing is that my Dad was corporate counsel/secretary of GM for 25 yrs and when I (and all my sibs) try to remain faithful to the GM brand, this is how we get treated (GIVE ME YOUR MONEY). There is an obvious problem with the speedometers in this vehicle, it is not just a coincidence, yet the dealer just wants money. Guess we'll have to rethink what we are going to purchase next, but I'll keep my Z06, for now - the Suburban on the other hand...??? I have three MORE kids to get into vehicles too - - GM? Not unless someone wants to fix this problem. Sad since this is all we grew up with.
  • pierce33pierce33 Posts: 1
    edited June 2011
    Wow, I am shocked at the number of complaints, not just on this website but others too, about the same damn things going wrong on the 2004 Chevy Tahoe. What's more unbelievable is the fact that Chevy is not doing anything to compensate their customers. I have been driving for over a year now without a gas guage or speedometer and choked on the price when I was told what it would cost to fix everything. What's wrong with GM?! Even a company like SAAB fessed up and reimbursed me for parts and labor costs when something conked out that ended up being a rampant issue with many customers driving a similar make and model year. I don't get it. I love my Tahoe, but wouldn't ever consider buying another one at this point in time based on the lack of customer service I, and everyone else, have been experiencing.
  • drew58drew58 Posts: 1
    Our Chevy Tahoe 2005 is acting up. The speedometer is doing the same thing every one else is describing. Is this a recall and can be replaced for free?
  • vonoretnvonoretn Posts: 14
    Last I heard, repaired with parts and labor free if it's under 7 years from date of purchase, and under 70K miles. Free parts from 70K to 80K miles only.
  • vonoretnvonoretn Posts: 14
    You people can fix this problem yourselves for $11 per gauge. It's a matter of bad electric stepper motors that power each gauge needle. These are digital motors that receive a digital signal from the electronics in the cluster circuit. These stepper motors are available at Amazon for $5.90 plus shipping = $11. They are soldered into the circuit board inside the cluster.

    These clusters are the easiest to remove that I have ever seen, based on a 04 Yukon versus others on other brand vehicles that I have removed. The large bezzel that covers the radio and AC controls also, comes off by just pulling firmly at key points with your fingers. To remove the instrument cluster, now exposed, remove the 4 hex head screws (7 mm or 9/32" socket). There are no multiple electrical connectors, just one to disconnect. No speedo cable to disconnect. No light switch to remove the knob on.

    The reason dealers can't do this for you cheaply is that they need to tie up your vehicle while they outsource the cluster to an electronic service company. You can also outsource it yourself for $50 per gauge plus shipping, if you don't want to do the soldering yourself. See link below.

    See my detailed post at:

    ryanengel, "05 GMC Sierra Speedometer Doesn't work" #1, 9 Jul 2011 9:14 am

    Posts 3 and 6
  • zarlozarlo Posts: 2
    My speedometer recently became haywire when it would go to 120 mph or start at 50, 60 or 90 at starting the engine. It has been stuck at 60mph for the past month and I am not sure if I need to change the speedometer cable, the entire cluster or the speedometer sensor. I am going to do the work myself with help from a friend who works on cars but I want to get the right part. Any good advice about which part is at fault here??
  • vonoretnvonoretn Posts: 14
    edited July 2011
    It is likely a failed stepper motor that drives the speedometer, that's what it is in 95% of the cases. There is no speedometer cable, it's all electronic. I just fixed one for $11 in parts including shipping, and it works perfectly. If it its like the 03 Tahoe I worked on, the dash bezel is easy to remove, and so is the cluster. One electrical connector to disconnect. Put the gear shift in low with the parking brake on to get working clearance. Once the cluster is out you have to snap all the layers apart, by hand with some prying.

    I got the $5.90 + shipping part at:

    Once you get everything in the cluster separated, you have to pull the needles off all the gauges. Mark where they were when you started. (Once reassembled, the speedo needle will probably be in the wrong spot, so reconnect it before you fully reassemble it, turn the ignition on, mark where the needle is, remove, take apart, and adjust the wrong location back to zero speed).

    To pull the needles off, get two pieces of 1.5" by 2.5" thin cardboard rectangles, something about .015 to .025 inch thick (traditional shirt cardboard thickness). Put one on each side of each needle, and one by one, lift the needles with a fork, but instead of prying, use the compression force of the fork between the bottom of the needle pivot center, and the cardboard. The needle will eventually pop off the stepper motor shaft, but it takes quite a bit of force. Be gentle. Almost any other method will damage something, given the force required.

    Here is a video below on how to solder the new stepper motor in. I used a 25 watt soldering iron, a cheap one from Home Depot. Just heat the 4 solder points and then pop the stepper motor off. It can only go on one way due to the indexed plastic bumps. Of course you only have to replace the speedo stepper motor if it's the only one not working right. Position, then solder the new one in. I recommend reviewing your solder joints when you are done with a magnifying glass to make sure you got a good solder weld.
  • cirlotcirlot Posts: 1
    Hope this helps. The problem with the dash gauges is a small and cheap item called a "stepper" motor. It is a small electrical device that resides behind the dash cluster and actually moves the needles. There is a guy on e-bay that sells them individually for 3 dollars or so. You need to have soldering skills to replace them your self. He also will replace them for you, for a fee, if you send him your cluster. I will look for his site and repost later. Great fix for an idiotic problem GM should have fixed years ago. Good luck.
  • zarlozarlo Posts: 2
    From all the chat here, it appears that if the problem occurred after 70K you are stuck with the outcome. I have been told to change the cluster, replace the speedometer cable or speedometer sensor and the suggestion of replacing the "stepper motor" seems to be the most practical and cost efficient starting point.

    Thank you very much. I will start here and get back to you if this took care of the problem.
  • vonoretnvonoretn Posts: 14
    Summary, there is a $6 part on your easy to get to cluster that has failed, available at Amazon or Ebay. If you have a friend who knows how to solder on a circuit board, hook up with him, and buy him dinner after he's done. How to do it is on YouTube, do a search or check my previous posts. I just did one successfully last week on a Yukon. Fun project, not hard.
  • My apologies for the delay in response; I actually saw this when I was googling my internet handle! :) To close this out, I'm no longer dating Chris but he might still have the case number (yes, there was one). If you can send me an email address then I'll write a mutual email so that you two can be on the same page and I'm out of it. Thanks!
  • marvelrmarvelr Posts: 1
    I can't beleive all these posts I have seen regarding this problem. I know it not just me, I have a 04 Chevy Silverado Z71 and my entire instrument panel does not work, its been about 2 1/2 years I havent fixed it due to the dealer telling me it would be about 800+ to get it fixed and to top it if he said its a common problem. My Sister in law has an Avalanche and her instrument panel doesn't work as well. If this has been an ongoing issue Chevy should offer to replace these.
  • Our 2003 Chevy Tahoe just starting having this speedometer stick problem at around 74000 miles. What infuriates me is that the VIN number is included in the class action lawsuit, but because the truck is over 7 years old (we are original owners) and has over 70,000 miles on it GM is non-committal on helping pay for anything. You have to take it to the dealer and have it diagnosed before they will do anything. That, is a $79 charge. You may get the dealer to waive that charge if it ends up being this problem, but it depends on the dealer. Then they have to send out your instrument cluster for repair or get a new one in (from where?) and GM has to approve any costs it might cover. Cost without any coverage from GM is $695. If your GM person is not on top of things, then your truck could sit at the dealership for days. I have a friend who did get the part paid for, but paid $200 in labor costs. You can take out the cluster yourself with 7mm rachet. I just followed the youtube video instructions. Then there are several places you can send it to and have all the stepper motors and lights replaced, so you end up getting your part completely reburbished and like new for around $100. The best part... you didn't have to take it into the dealer or deal with GM's bs.
  • vonoretnvonoretn Posts: 14
    carrie1v, Good job! Most people only have to replace the speedo stepper ($6+shipping), and most of the time the lights aren't involved. I did it in my shop, 4 solder joints for the speedo stepper only. You do want to be careful so you don't make things worse, but it is mostly common sense and care.
  • ldmooreldmoore Posts: 1
    Chevy came out with a Bulletin about 2 years ago addressing this issue. It wasn't a recall but an extended warranty on the instrument cluster. I had the same problem, took it to my dealer and it was replaced at no cost to me.
  • vonoretnvonoretn Posts: 14
    Was your your Tahoe within the mileage and time limits of the current warranty?
  • My 2003 Silverado had its instument panel go out. For a while it would not turn on when I started up the truck and then after a while of driving it would turn on. Now it is just out completely. This includes all of the instruments and the electrical display for mileage. I took the panel out to check the connection and everything seems to be connected properly. Does anyone have any thoughts?
  • my 03 silverado had the same problem. Everyone is saying stepper motor but that is not the problem in the case that the entire cluster shuts off.

    After a day of troubleshooting I found three resistors needed resolder. The resistors are black at the 2 o'clock of the speed stepper motor, SSW of two silver 50V capacitors, they have 240 written on them.

    A way to check, is to hook the circuit board up to the truck, turn the key on (but don't start the truck), and with a pencil press on these resistors and you should hear a buzzing and/or the cluster will turn on. be careful not to short the board to ground on the truck.

    That fixed my cluster.

    let me know if it works for anyone else
  • I have quite a long story regarding the cluster problems with GM trucks. I took my 2003 Suburban to the dealer for oil changes after purchasing it in '05 with 38K miles. I started having intermittent oil pressure gauge readings, where the pressure would read 40 psi with key off and 80 psi when running. I figured so long as it read about +40 psi when running I was OK and just kept an eye on it. I mentioned the problem to the dealer at every oil change. They told me there was no "known issue" or recall, but they would be happy to schedule service for me. Eventually the oil gauge just pegged all the way past 80 psi and quit all together. I just lived with it until I got a letter from GM stating that the problem was being recalled and the fix would be free for all vehicles under 70K miles. I promptly took my truck to the same dealer and proudly presented my recall notice to the service manager. Since my truck had just over 72K miles I was told that they could fix the problem at my cost. I tried to jar his memory of all the times I mentioned the problem over the previous 2 years when my truck was well under the 70K miles threshold. No understanding on the dealer's part!

    I was so ticked off I went home and started to type "2003 Chevy Suburban Instrument Cluster Issues" in the Google bar and before I finished the thread I got about 8 million hits. I discovered that just about every 2003 and later GM truck owner experienced the same issue and all were so fed up with GM that they said it would be their last (I have to agree). Anyway I found one posting mentioning the stepper motor problem and that you can buy the GM replacement motors on eBay and replace them yourself. I found a guy in Winona, MN selling the motors for $4 each so I ordered 6 - one for each of the gauges in my cluster - since all 6 use the same motor.

    All you have to do to get the cluster out is pop off the bezel around your dash/radio and remove the four screws that hold the cluster in the dash. You can disassemble the cluster be unsnapping the clear front lens from the back of the assembly. To get to the stepper motors you have to remove the indicator needles from the gauge (mark their position first on a piece of tape affixed to the front of the cluster). If you can solder you can replace the stepper motors. The fix took me less than an hour to R&R the cluster and re-calibrate the speedo.

    Well that fixed my problem for a couple years. Then this summer my speedo started acting erratically. I originally only changed the stepper for my oil gauge, since all the rest were working fine. I had the remaining 5 steppers from a couple years ago, so I thought I could just go back "in" and fix the speedo. Turns out I don't have the equipment or skills to un-solder and then re-solder the stepper motor for the speedo to the PC Board. It's just in an area that you need to be very precise in order to perform the soldering.

    I called the guy in Winona, MN that I previously bought the motors from. He said I could send him the entire cluster and he would replace all 6 stepper motors and re-program the entire cluster with updated programming for $100, including return UPS shipping. I live in the Twin Cities so UPS Ground is next-day to Winona. I was w/o the cluster for 2 whole days, then the repaired cluster showed up and I had it back in my truck w/in 10 minutes.

    The dealer wanted about $500 to repair the cluster. I swear they have actuaries on staff that calculate how many vehicles are on the road with less than 70K miles before they issue the recall, knowing that the hit to them will be minimal.

    I'm done with GM!
  • Do you have a link for the youtube video? Thanks!
Sign In or Register to comment.