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Tires, tires, tires



  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    Pick the tires you think you may be interested in and read the customer reviews posted on the Tire Rack's web site. Some of the tires have literally hundreds of reviews so even if some of those are "planted", you're still going to be reading a vast majority of reviews posted by actual owners. That's how I ended up with the Yokahama Avid Tourings on my MPV and the Kumho Touring 795's on my Tercel. I am extremely happy with both tires and both were amoung the least expensive in their groups.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,441
    Why was Conner not recommending the Goodyear Tripletred for a minivan? At another MPV forum there are several members who have them on their minivan and love them. A few other really like the Hydroedge. One member recently bought the Goodrich Traction T/A...which is rated #1 at tirerack.

    I really like the Yokohamas Avid TRZ ( have the T4's), they look quite a bit like the Goodyear Tripletred I believe.

    I went thru the same thing about selection your going thru can drive you crazy if your not careful. ;)
  • golicgolic Posts: 714
    I need a break from tires today, but here is what connor said in his email to me:

    I would still recommend the Bridgestone Turanza LS-T as the best tire with the Yokohama TRZ second. Personally i would not recommend the Goodyear Tripletred for any type of van, SUV, or truck. The Bridgestone would offer the best overall ride quality as well as the best traction levels in dry, wet, and snow condition out of the three tire listed.
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798

    Got 'em and love 'em! Have 18k miles on 'em and they are still deep in tread. Had the alignment done about 5 pm tonight
    and it was out just a bit on one side. The tire guy today said next time do a simplified X rotation, where the left front goes on the right rear and the right front goes on the left rear and bring the back 2 straight up front. He said this should smooth out any more feathering and keep up with this rotation pattern.
    Sounds simple enough for me. But really, the LS-T's are exceptional tires, and your car will ride so much better!

    The Sandman :)
  • Before I spring for new tires on my '04 G35 Coupe, I need some input. My coupe has the stock 17" wheels, Goodyear Eagle 245/50-17's on the rear, and at 30K miles, stright from the factory. Only the center is worn out. NO, they are and have not been over inflated. I set tire pressure when the tire is cold. Someone suggested this type of wear might be due to the tire size not suited to the wheel width.

    Any suggestions??
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    The same happens to my 04 Jetta GLI, but mine is the front stock junk tire (225/45-17). So I changed at 13,500 miles two months ago. I think you have travelled a lot on straight highway. BTW 30,000k Miles will be the end of your tire life.
  • Hey....Texas is mostly flat!! And mine's an automatic. I called Infiniti and they basically said they had not heard of this complaint. There is SO much tread outside of the center though. I let some air out and will continue to run them for a while.
  • Where do you get alignments done?? Dealer???
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    What I mean is there is so much torque on the rear driving wheels going on a straight road, tire wear on the center is normal. Its has nothing to do with manual or automatic. Be careful of tire failure if you loose too much air and if the tire has reached the treadmark.
  • wilcoxwilcox Posts: 583
    1996 Toyota Camry V6 with over 100k miles.

    Walmart has Goodyear Viva 2's. They are "S" speed rated with Traction "B" and Temperature "A".

    Do you have experience with them? No one has written about them here for a year or two.

    At about $59+ for a ~60,000~ mile tire would you think they'd be worth it? Or a try?

    Does anyone reading this have any thing bad to say about them?


    p.s. believe it or not, I can drive in the middle of the road for most of my work day commute due to somewhat "rural" conditions.
  • capriracercapriracer Somewhere in the USPosts: 855
    Let me expand on this a bit.

    Front tires tend to wear on the shoulders due to the tire folding under during cornering.

    Rear tires tend to wear in the center due to the (generally) lower load.

    HOWEVER, drive tires tend to have more rapid wear, and this is generally in the center.

    The net effect is that on FWD cars, the front tread wear tends to be even but 2 1/2 times faster than the rears.

    On RWD, the wear rates are close to the same, but they wear in different locations - front = shoulders, rear = center.

    That's one of the reasons tire rotation is important. Not only does it tend to even out the wear, but you gain a little bit of extra life.
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    Thanks for your explanation, In my case of FWD mostly on highway without cornering, the wear is mostly on the center and the shoulder is still very good, only a little more wear than the rear shoulder.
  • 93illini93illini Posts: 4

    To add to your confusion - check out Nokian WR. That and the GY Fortera Tripple Tred were on my short list for my wife's Honda Pilot. Both carry severe winter weather ratings AND temp/traction data.

    Going with the Nokian as I'm not a big fan of GY. That, and the WR has more in-market data/history.
  • I believe the Viva which is only sold only at Walmart was called the Decathlon when it was sold at Goodyear stores several years ago. It was their low end tire back them. Walmart markets them as a touring tire. the traction and temp rating you quoted are where most all season tires are
    rated. I would shop around a little before making a decision. A Camry with a 100k has a lot of life left in it.
    good luck
  • mazda6iguymazda6iguy Posts: 365
    I have a 2003 Mazda 6i sedan (4 cyl.) with tires size P205 60 R16. The OE tires on the car are Michelin MXV4 Plus XSE. I am thinking of getting the Goodyear Tripletred but am open to suggestions.
  • mazda6iguymazda6iguy Posts: 365
    My company has a 2002 Ford E250 Extended cargo van. We bought the truck new. We barely drive it (only 12,000 miles on the Odo)! The tread on the tires are great. It got me to thinking how much life the tires have left on them? Is age a factor in replaceing a tire? So far, they still look great.
  • capriracercapriracer Somewhere in the USPosts: 855
    Yes, age is a factor, and this is the current hot topic in the tire industry. Most tire manufacturers have come out with age limits (Some vehicle manufacturers, too!) Some say 6 years from the date of manufacture, some say 10 years. My read on the difference is that it depends on ambient temperature.

    So if you live in a hot climate, 6 years is the limit, and if you live in a cold climate - 10 years. My take on what is "hot climate" is: AZ, CA, NV, NM, TX, and FL. The further north you go, the limit would be in between. For example TN would be 8 years.

    To tell the date of manufacture of a tire, you need to find the DOT number - a 10 to 12 digit number (letters, too!) near the letters "DOT". The last 3 or 4 digits indicate the date of manufacture in a week/week/year or week/week/year/year format.

    For example: If the last 3 digits are 359, the tire was produced in the 39th week of 1999 (or 1989, or 1979). If the last 3 digits are 3501, the tire was produced in the 35th week of 2001.

    They started using 4 digits in mid 1999 and 3 digits was still used until mid 2000, so you will find some tires both ways in this time frame.

    Put another way, if you live in AZ, you ought to take off any tire that has 3 digits for the date code and anything that ends in 6, 7 8, or 9.

    Hope this helps.
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    Walmart has been upgrading its tire selection considerably - if you know how to shop. In the past they could actually order for you, but prices were not that good and it was slow and difficult. Now, you can go to and choose from much better tires than they generally sell in the stores - still at great prices. They ship free to the Walmart of your choice where you get them installed for $9.95 - which includes mounting, tire stems, balancing, and disposal of old tires. It's a pretty darn good deal.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,309
    Do they include a lifetime balance and rotation in the $9.95?

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • mazda6iguymazda6iguy Posts: 365
    Is Sams Club / Wal Mart a good place to get tires? I am going to get Goodyear TripleTreds and in comparing prices for a set of four Sams club comes out to $419 vs. $587 from another local tire dealer. Opinions? I assume the $419 includes mounting/balancing, etc. but I did not find out from the Sams Club website.
  • rs_pettyrs_petty Posts: 423
    My experience with wholesale clubs and Walmart have been the guy doing the installing isn't trained or well supervised. I've had wheels butchered with errant impact guns, multiple trips to the balance machine, and poor service. I found a local shop from the installer list in tirerack and have used him for the last 2 sets of tires. In both cases 1st job was done right. I paid about $60 for the set of 4 which, IMHO was well spent.
  • wilcoxwilcox Posts: 583
    Yes, From coast to coast where there is a service facility in their store that does tires.

    As last poster mentions, employees working in those centers come and go.

    I had tires replaced last week. Installer did not secure one of the wheel covers on passenger side very well. I found it almost half off when I got home. Lucky me.

    When doing business with any installer, have them inspect the vehicle before installation (noting existing situation of condidtion).

    After installation, go inspect your car before you pay. If there is a new scratch, dent, or broken wheel cover or anything of this nature, then let the clerk know. You'll have the power..
  • Hi, first post ever. I'm the happy owner of a 2004 Volvo S60-R w/all the premium/upgrade packages except ground FX, which looked to be just cladding, after all. I'm a few weeks away from swapping off the Blizzaks for new summer tires and wondered if anyone out there has any info to suggest that I should look beyond the Pirellis that came stock with the car, which were Z-rated P-Zero Rosso, 18x8 (235/40). I have no complaint with the Pirellis, but since there are other tires out there I thought I'd check on other folks' experiences with different brands. Although I'm not married to them, I've been getting my tires for years at Tire Rack, and within my parameters there (on their website, I mean), the options appear to be Dunlop, Conti, Michelin Pilot, Bridgestone Potenza, and of course the Pirellis. If I could pick up a bit more grippiness on wet, I'd be even happier, and would trade down to a V-rating for that, if necessary. Not counting their "closeout" sales on a couple of different Continentals, the price spread is only about $50 per tire, so in the overall scheme of things that's not an important factor for us. Volvo Racing's new theme is our goal: Safety Fast!
    Thanks in advance for any insights and experiences you can share.
    Tom in Albany, NY
    (I'll post this in both the "Volvo S60" and the "Tires" discussions.)
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    I think so far Dunlop SP9000 is still the best wettest grip among all the summer performance tire. with 280 thread rating. I replaced the stock tire with SP9000 and can drive very steady in the heavy rain. Also the ride is not so harsh as other summer performance tires. Right now they are on sale in Tirerack.
  • I had some Goodyear's put on by Walmart several years ago. The install was quick, the extra road hazard was reasonable. But when I went back to have the free rotation done they were always busy and had a few hour waiting time. I purchased a road hazard warranty from a Goodyear store on some Aquatreads, blew one out in a snowstorm. The damaged tire had about 15k on it, wife brought it to the Goodyear's store, they charged me $65.00 for the replacement which included charges for mounting, balancing, and another new valve stem. The valve stem BS ticked me off. I find it better to go to a local tire only store, they get any tire you want and send you to a local shop to have them installed. They charge about $10.00 more than the tire rack on the average but include the install and with a cash payment no tax.
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    Lost 15 lbs. of air since Friday nite and the car pulled to the right. Found a screw in the outer 1/3 near the side wall and not really sure if it can be patched. I do have a road hazard policy on the tire and if they have to replace it, I'll still have to pay something. All the tires have about 20k miles on them and am not quite sure what happens when you only put 1 new tire on with the same tread (hopefully). Will the car ride the same with a brand new 1 and the 3 older tires? And if they can't get a matching tire, what happens then, as there would be 2 different treads on the same axle.

    The Sandman :confuse:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,309
    Make sure they put a patch on the inside to prevent air leaking past the plug.

    If it's where I picture, I have had repairs done for nails there.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    If it's in the tread, chances are they can patch it, and you can still use it. If not, then I'd recommend getting TWO new tires, whether or not it's covered by road hazard. I wouldn't recommend putting two different types of tread, or riding with 1 new and 3 older tires.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    It depends on the tread depth or remaining life. I have some Michelin X LTs from Walmart. They have about 55K miles and still have quite a bit of depth before hitting the wear bars. Say, maybe 70-80 K before they are worn out. I would probably say you are okay with 1 new one and the 3 older ones if there in not too much wear. On the other hand, if they are over halfway down to the wear bars, I would consider replacing both on that axle. This can be checked with a depth guage. Find out the original tread depth when new and then the remaining. This is usually how they check to see how much to pro-rate on a replacment if necessary under a warranty or road hazard. Any tire shop will have one of these.

    IF you have an AWD vehicle or even a 4 wheel drive of some types ( Isuzu TOD for example), it is not a good idea to have tires with different diameters since the sensors can be confused by the different rotational speeds.. I don't think you have this issue since you did not say you had a AWD.

    Also, if they shop sayes they can't get the same tire, I would push for them to replace at least the 2 on the same axle. After all, they did sell you the insurance against just this happening. At worst I would consider paying for the % of the other tire used but not feel that I should have to pay any of the additional mounting, etc. since they cannot completely fulfill their obligations. I could have an issue with Wal-Mart on my Michelins... I don't see that they sell these Select LT radial X series any, if I did need one replaced it would be interesting to see if they could dig one up or try to 'convert' me to something else like the Michelin Cross Terrain that I think they are selling now.
  • Hi
    I own a 2005 Chevy Express 3500. I'm interested in changing out the steel 16 x 6.5 rims with chrome centers for the 16 inch Polished aluminum rims that are available on the 2500HD LT model pickups. Can I make the swap?
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