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Dodge Dakota rear-end noise



  • Wow. thanks for the info. NO ONE has done this in the three times I've taken it to a mechanic. I guess I'll take this post to the dealer and tell them to do this (I'm sure they won't appreciate it, but hey...they had their chance.) Thanks so much for the reply!
  • I had the same problems in my 1992 Dakota LE ext cab 4x4 5.2 well was a 5.2 until it got the 340 in a rebuild . I had taken it in several times early in its lifespan and Dodge replaced the ring and pinion twice and by the third time it was determined that it was the setup and shimming of carrier and pinion was at fault . The dealership said it didnt have the corerect tools to accomplish this and that they wouldnt even think of replacing the rear diff with a new from ma mopar. So i ate the cost onit myself and bought an 83/4 out of a buddies old 340 duster that was his drag car , did the approprate work to it mounts etc, and put it in there ourselves , and now have not had any problems since ..It is a bit of work but it is worth it in the long run.. Just some advice from a hillbilly missourian ...
  • sorry im jumping on ur post and asking a new quetion but im new and really need some help. i have a 98 dodge ram quad cab short box sport. it has the 9.25 rear axle. when i shift my truck into gear thier is a heavy clunk and its even worse going from revers to drive or vise versa. i have got down and tryed to move the drive shaft to see if its the u joints but thier not moving at all. its been doing this for quite a while now. also its just recently got really bad. when im driving the truck thier is a bad shake. wich is not normale for my truck at all. it drives very smooth ussaly. all my friends hjave the smae truck and mine drives so much smoother. so i can really tell thats thier is a problem when im getting a bad shake like that. also now thiers is a clunking noise when im coasting like up to a corner to stop and time im slowing down i hear a clunking. any ideas what this could be?
  • does any one know of a link or have the right procedure to set the back lash on 9.25 diff :confuse:
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    You could have excessive pinion gear play or a worn pinion bearing.

    I recommend getting someone you trust well and perform the following:

    1. Place wheel chocks on the front wheels to prevent vehicle movement in either direction.

    2. Start the engine and apply the parking brake.

    3. Get underneath the vehicle in a position that allows you to listen and observe both ends of the driveshaft.

    4. Have someone move the transmission in to a forward and a reverse gear intermittently.

    5. Listen for the source of the noise. Watch the pinion shaft at the rear end for excessive movement when the transmission is engaged. Listen and watch at the tailshaft of the transmission for excessive movement or noise. Check for a broken transmission mount.

  • i drained the rear end and found the lsd clips broken so i got a replacement for it i installed the gears and got as far as no bearing play but kinda got lost after that i did check the pinion shaft and had to replace the bearings and race's
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    No bearing play? Which bearing are you referring too?

  • oh sorry the side bearings which are by the adjuster
    Apply Mopar® Door Ease, or equivalent, stick lubricant to outside surface of bearing cup.
    Install the pinion rear bearing cup with Installer C-4310 and Driver Handle C - 4171.
    Ensure cup is correctly seated.
    Apply Mopar® Door Ease, or equivalent, stick lubricant to outside surface of bearing cup.
    Install the pinion front bearing cup with Installer D - 129 and Handle C - 4171.
    Install pinion front bearing, and oil slinger, if equipped.
    Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal.
    Install seal with Installer C-3860-A and Handle C-4171
    NOTE: Pinion depth shims are placed between the rear pinion bearing cone and pinion gear to achieve proper ring and pinion gear mesh. If the factory installed ring and pinion gears are reused, the pinion depth shim should not require replacement. If required, refer to Pinion Gear Depth to select the proper thickness shim before installing rear pinion bearing.

    Place the proper thickness depth shim on the pinion gear.
    Install the rear bearing and slinger, if equipped, on the pinion gear with Installer C-3095.
    Install a new collapsible preload spacer on pinion shaft and install pinion gear in housing
    Install pinion gear in housing.
    Install yoke with Installer C-3718 and Yoke Holder 6719.
    Install the yoke washer and a new nut on the pinion gear and tighten the pinion nut until there is zero bearing end-play. It will not be possible at this point to achieve zero bearing end-play if a new collapsible spacer was installed.
    Tighten the nut to 285 N·m (210 ft. lbs.)
    CAUTION: Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease pinion gear bearing rotating torque and never exceed specified preload torque. If preload torque or rotating torque is exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be installed. The torque sequence will then have to be repeated.

    Using Yoke Holder 6719, crush collapsible spacer until bearing end play is taken up.
    Slowly tighten the nut in 6.8 N·m (5 ft. lbs.) increments until the desired rotating torque is achieved. Measure the rotating torque frequently to avoid over crushing the collapsible spacer
    Check bearing rotating torque with an inch pound torque wrench The torque necessary to rotate the pinion gear should be:
    Original Bearings - 1 to 3 N·m (10 to 20 in. lbs.)
    New Bearings - 2 to 5 N·m (15 to 35 in. lbs.)
    Install propeller shaft.
    Apply a coating of hypoid gear lubricant to the differential bearings, bearing cups, and threaded adjusters. A dab of grease can be used to keep the adjusters in position. Carefully position the assembled differential case in the housing.
    Observe the reference marks and install the differential bearing caps at their original locations
    Install bearing cap bolts and tighten the upper bolts to 14 N·m (10 ft. lbs.) Tighten the lower bolts finger-tight until the bolt head is seated.
    The following must be considered when adjusting bearing preload and gear backlash:

    The maximum ring gear backlash variation is 0.003 inch (0.076 mm)
    Mark the gears so the same teeth are meshed during all backlash measurements.
    Maintain the torque while adjusting the bearing preload and ring gear backlash.
    Excessive adjuster torque will introduce a high bearing load and cause premature bearing failure. Insufficient adjuster torque can result in excessive differential case free-play and ring gear noise.
    Insufficient adjuster torque will not support the ring gear correctly and can cause excessive differential case free-play and ring gear noise.
    NOTE: The differential bearing cups will not always immediately follow the threaded adjusters as they are moved during adjustment. To ensure accurate bearing cup responses to the adjustments:

    Maintain the gear teeth engaged (meshed) as marked.

    The bearings must be seated by rapidly rotating the pinion gear a half turn back and forth.

    Do this five to ten times each time the threaded adjusters are adjusted.

    Use Wrench C-4164 to adjust each threaded adjuster inward until the differential bearing free-play is eliminated Allow some ring gear backlash (approximately 0.01 inch/0.25 mm) between the ring and pinion gear. Seat the bearing cups with the procedure described above.
    Install dial indicator and position the plunger against the drive side of a ring gear tooth Measure the backlash at 4 positions (90 degrees apart) around the ring gear. Locate and mark the area of minimum backlash.
    Rotate the ring gear to the position of the least backlash. Mark the gear so that all future backlash measurements will be taken with the same gear teeth meshed.
    Loosen the right-side, tighten the left-side threaded adjuster. Obtain backlash of 0.003 to 0.004 inch (0.076 to 0.102 mm) with each adjuster tightened to 14 N·m (10 ft. lbs.) Seat the bearing cups with the procedure described above.
    Tighten the differential bearing cap bolts to 136 N·m (100 ft. lbs.);
    Tighten the right-side threaded adjuster to 102 N·m (75 ft. lbs.) Seat the bearing cups with the procedure described above. Continue to tighten the right-side adjuster and seat bearing cups until the torque remains constant at 102 N·m (75 ft. lbs.)
    Measure the ring gear backlash. The range of backlash is 0.006 to 0.008 inch (0.15 to 0.203 mm)
    Continue increasing the torque at the right-side threaded adjuster until the specified backlash is obtained
    NOTE: The left-side threaded adjuster torque should have approximately 102 N·m (75 ft. lbs.) If the torque is considerably less, the complete adjustment procedure must be repeated.

    Tighten the left-side threaded adjuster until 102 N·m (75 ft. lbs.) torque is indicated. Seat the bearing rollers with the procedure described above. Do this until the torque remains constant.
    Install the threaded adjuster locks and tighten the lock screws to 10 N·m (90 in. lbs.)
    After the proper backlash is achieved, perform the Gear Contact Analysis procedure.

    The ring and pinion gear teeth contact patterns will show if the pinion gear depth is correct in the axle housing. It will also show if the ring gear backlash has been adjusted correctly. The backlash can be adjusted within specifications to achieve desired tooth contact patterns.

    Apply a thin coat of hydrated ferric oxide, or equivalent, to the drive and coast side of the ring gear teeth.
    Wrap, twist, and hold a shop towel around the pinion yoke to increase the turning resistance of the pinion gear. This will provide a more distinct contact pattern.
    Using a boxed end wrench on a ring gear bolt, Rotate the differential case one complete revolution in both directions while a load is being applied from shop towel.
    The areas on the ring gear teeth with the greatest degree of contact against the pinion gear teeth will squeegee the compound to the areas with the least amount of contact.

    Scrape the residual sealant from the housing
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I'm not sure where you are in the reassembly process, but you need a special tool (C-4164) you adjust the bearings. This is a long bar which is inserted through the opening at the end of the axle housing (axles removed) and rotates an adjuster plate that has a hexagon center inside the carrier. I'm thinking you have just replaced the differential bearings and may not be aware of how they are adjusted.

    Our good friend Greasesister has provided a detail instruction on the reassembly and adjustment process.

    Best regards,

    P.S. Thanks Greasesister. That was a lot of good information. You must be an avid typist!
  • no dusty iam not a very good typist at all i used the copy thing on the mouse yes you are right at where iam at ok got a good idea now on the next step might need your advice again have a great day
  • Is that why on 2008 dakota there's a lifetime, unlimited miles warranty on their powertrain? I noticed it's not there anymore, probably too expensive. I wonder if they'd even honor that now with troubles and Fiat taking over. Maybe Dodge will get on board with a small deisel or gas saving engine by 2012. If not they'll be left behind. The Ram is awesome now for 2009, but those of us that want a true smaller body on frame truck or SUV to tow with get the shaft after 2010. No pun intended.

  • flap10flap10 Posts: 1
    Hi all

    I have a 2wd 97 dakota sport with a 3.9L and 105000 kms. I got a code P0171 and I can to repair the problem is to clean the maf sensor and check for vacuum leaks. My truck does't have a maf sensor and I can't find any leaks. The truck runs rough and there seems like theres gas getting into my oil pan. Any ideas?
  • eddie79eddie79 Posts: 3
    Hi all,
    I have a '00 Dodge Dakota 5.9 w/4wd. Bought it about 2 months ago and was very satisfied. Has everything I was looking for. About a week ago, I noticed a whinning sound coming from the rear end, especially when maintaining a certain speed (between 45-50 mph). And as I come to a stop, it will make a slight grinding noise. So for the moment, it's now "resting" til I can figure out what the problem is. I've been given some options as to what could be the cause...

    1.Spider gears going bad
    2.U-joint needle bearings
    3.Bad LSD clips

    That's to name a few, I'm sure. I don't mind working on any vehicle but transmissions and related components are my weakness. If there are any other options or ideas, it would be greatly appreciated. I fear if I take it into a shop first, it's gonna cost me way too much for them to even look at it and then just suggest what it could be. Thanks again.

  • eddie79eddie79 Posts: 3
    P.S. It only has 86,xxx miles
  • fawlrudfawlrud Posts: 3
    edited June 2010
    i posted an inquiry like yours years ago, and nobody has a die hard remedy. while it was under warranty, i had the ring and pinion gears in my 2003 Dakota (4x4, 4.8L, 9.25 rear) changed out three times... the problem was briefly silenced, but 2k mi later, more obnoxious banshee wailing. as long as you make sure to keep your diff fluid changed at the proper intervals, check often for water invasion (if your diff ingests water, the gear oil will be a nasty, grey milk with the consistency of pottery slip), you're good to go. there are no less than 5 reasons the diff starts to make that damn noise - drive axle-to-diff yoke connection angle is off (a [non-permissible content removed] to set properly), ring/pinion gear offset not 100% correct (another [non-permissible content removed] to set properly), diff fluid degraded (if you tow a lot or hard launch often), diff full of water (if you wash your undercarriage vigourously or drive through flooded streets), diff fluid level incorrect (check vehicle manual for proper spec) - and, unless you find a whole lot of metal flakes or bits stuck in the diff when you do a fluid change or notice grinding/slipping/banging from that end of your truck, you're fine. Apparently, there's even a TSB floating out there that states "if technician can turn up the radio to a sensible level and drown out the whining, no service required." The Chrysler 9.25 is a really solid piece of hardware, and the 8.25 isn't far behind. Yes, you could be OCD about this and have a reputable mechanic check everything listed above, but, to be brutally frank, it's just a Dodge that sings under load at 40-55 mph. I agree that this is a retarded problem to have to put up with, but you're in no real danger of a costly repair as a general rule. hope that helps in spite of the grin and bear it reality of German-American engineering (thanks a lot, Dr. Z)...
  • eddie79eddie79 Posts: 3
    Ha!! It's funny you mentioned turning up the radio. My wife told me to do that. The fluid will be the first thing I check. I crawled under it yesterday and noticed off the bat that there's a leak coming from behind the propeller joint. It's not enough of a leak that it's "pouring" out, but enough to make me want to check it out. And I don't have the symptoms you mentioned about the slipping and banging. In fact, it shifts just fine. I don't tow hardly anything other than my boat, which is just a 14 1/2 ft. john boat. I wouln't think that the 'kota couldn't handle that. I appreciate your insight. Thanks!

  • fawlrudfawlrud Posts: 3
    At 45k mi, i also had a leak between the prop U-joint and diff housing. Exactly the same as what you described. Chrysler paid to fix that - extended warranty paid for itself several times. Again, not a serious issue, and it may be leaking because of gear oil overfilling. There's a digital version of the early 2000s Ram factory technician's manual floating around online (almost all specs are identical to Dakota). Greatest free download ever, especially if you're handy at mechanic's work.
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