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Lexus RX 300



  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    If you wish, contact me via eMail and I can give you the name of a locksmith in Penza, Russia who may be able to help "duplicate the funky grooves".

  • ruskiruski Posts: 1,566
    Penza is a few thousand miles away from Fort Lauderdale. I am not sure I will want to send that key all the way to Penza and then wait for it to be shipped back, and it could get lost in mail. Plus I don't have any vodka left to pay the guy. :)
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    Sorry, I mistakenly presumed you are located in Russia. I could give you a couple names in Ft. Lauderdale, but you could find them faster in the Yellow Pages.

  • ke2feke2fe Posts: 37
    My 2000 rx300 with 130k miles began acting strange. The abs would activate every time I stopped. The car's velocity did not matter and the wheels were neither locked or the tires skidding. I was "forced" to bring it to my local dealer. They suggested a complete brake job. (rotors and brake pads). Had no effect on the problem. After a day of them trying to find the cause of the abs activating, they did find it. It seems that the sensor ring which is part of the axle had lost some of its "teeth" This ring is an integral part of the axle and cannot be replaced as a part. This sensor ring goes past an electronic sensor that determines the turning velocity of the wheel. The entire axle has to be replaced at a cost of $850 for the part and $450 for the labor. Other cars have this sensor ring pressed on the axle similar to a bearing, but not Lexus. I told them to forget it! When I got the car back, I pulled the two circuit breakers that control the abs out of the engine mounted fuse box. That solved the problem of the abs activating at the wrong times. Now I have this expensive car that does not have abs. What the heck, the abs would kick in legitimately maybe once or twice during the icy roads found in winter.

    It would be nice if Lexus would be informed about this and perhaps change their axle to one where this sensor ring can be replaced easily. Do you know who and how to contact Lexus?

    Bob W (ke2fe)
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    Go to Lexus Owner Anchor from the link. You need to register using your VIN if you haven't already. Click on "Quick Links", then "Contact Lexus".


  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Why not bridge the opposite working sensor into the circuit for the "non-functional" sensor? The ABS will never engage if ONLY the wheel with the non-working sensor tends to lockup but it will still work for the other three wheels.

    You'll end up with a three channel system, but most early ABS only had three channels anyway.
  • ke2feke2fe Posts: 37
    Dear Wwest,

    Can you describe the details for performing this bridge? (after I replace the circuit breakers)

    Thank you,

    Bob W (ke2fe)
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Disconnect the non-functional sensor and "dead-head" it, connect in its place a shielded pair and run it over to the opposite sensor and connect it in parallel.
  • wayne1wayne1 Posts: 6
    Has anyone replaced a battery on a 99 or 00 Lexus? If so,did you loose the function of the radio,and did you have the radio code to get it to work? I am concerned about this because my wife's 99 may need a battery this coming winter and would like to know if the battery replacement is like any other car or is there a procedure to it. I am also going to buy one of those battery backup devices,a 9 volt battery and cigar lighter insert that goes to the cigar lighter socket. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • johngreisjohngreis Posts: 70
    My understanding of that "backup battery" device is to prevent exactly what your afraid of. Loosing all your settings. If you have one, I'd take it with me and plug her in when you leave it for the battery replacement.

    But, it seems to me that any garage with halfway decent servicemen would do this on their own when replacing a battery. But, then some of these garages use the equivalent of burger flippers to do some of their service.

    Good luck.
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    If I recall correctly, you will loose the radio presets and digital clock if the battery is disconnected. These are easily re-programmed using the procedure found in the owner's manual.

  • avery1avery1 Posts: 373
    I just replaced my battery in a '99. Lost the time but radio presets stayed programmed. Battery was disconnected 10 minutes or so.
  • bobfloydbobfloyd Posts: 32
    What can you tell us about the brand, size and other specs of your new battery. Does it fit properly in the rack?
  • avery1avery1 Posts: 373
    I bought it at Costco. It is a little smaller around and a little taller than the Toyota battery but everything worked out ok witht he Lexus bracket holding it tight.
  • erik_herik_h Posts: 77
    I got the high-end die-hard for my '99 and it fits fine. I knew it was time for a new battery when I started the vehicle and the time was reset. It didn't have enough juice to turn the engine and keep time.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    This procedure is something of a nuisance but with fuel prices rising.....

    I have already had my dealer disable the A/C system using C-best options (two) in "normal", automatic mode, and in defrost/defog/demist mode. Below 65F OAT A/C is a total waste of fuel as it only serves to dehumidify the incoming airflow and during the summer that capability is useless.

    I am also in the process of installed an electrically, 12 volt, operated water flow control valve so that NO hot water flows to the climate control heat exchanger during cooling mode. Eliminating even the radiant heating effects within the A/C plenum area.

    The way our systems work once the cabin has reached the temperature setpoint is that the incoming airflow is first chilled to as low as 34F and then via the reheat/remix servomotor and vane airflow routing system some of the airflow is reheated and then both portions are remixed such that the airflow reaching your body surfaces is not so cool as to be discomforting.

    If you avoid the reheat/remix cycle then the A/C system becomes dramatically more efficient. Here is the way that can be done.

    Turn the system to max cold, put the system in recirculate mode, and now use the blower speed manually to regulate your comfort level. You can also alleviate some of the dash outlet airflow by selecting combined floor and dash outlets. I would not recommend floor only in that the intake airflow for recirulate mode is too near the floor/footwell outlets.

    Sometimes when the OAT is below 65F but the interior has been warmed by the sun I use the A/C to first cool the car down and then switch it off.

    I NEVER use the A/C in defrost/defog/demist mode, especially in the wintertime as that will always lead to follow-on windshield fogging due to the design flaw of the Lexus climate control system. Besides which, although Lexus relies totally and completely on the dehumidification capabilities of the A/C for defogging and/or preventing fogging o the windshield/windows, the A/C will be automatically shut down if/when the outside temperature declines below 35F.

    If your windshield begins to fog over then apply HEAT and then maintain the windshield surface temperature at an elevated level to prevent further instances of fogging.
  • peggyloupeggylou Posts: 40
    doesn't just pressing the ac button so it is no longer lighted when in "auto" mode effectively do the same thing? I have been doing this since purchasing my Rx300 in Feb. With the way you have your c-best options set now, do you have to manually turn on your ac when in "auto" or does it still come on if OAT > 65?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Now I don't have to remember each time I activate the auto function to reach over and turn the A/C off AGAIN!

    If I want to use the OEM factory shipped mode all I have to do is turn the A/C on one time. Turning it off one time is the same, it stays off, PERIOD, unless I trun it back on.

    Absent the 2nd C-best option change the A/C will always run in defrost/defog/demist mode but with no indication.
  • mmm1mmm1 Posts: 54
    Would appreciate comments from a few of you experts (Willard? It's time for 60K mile check on my RX 300 which I will have local Toyota dealer perform. Other than changing oil and filter and air filter I question whether it is really necessary to replace brake fluid, coolant, differential oil and retorque drive shaft bolts. Not a $$ issue--just don't want to do it if it really isn't necessary. Any thoughts on this. Thanks.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    My 01 AWD RX300 now has 38k miles and has only had oil and oil/air/air/filters changed and has never been back to the shop, except for the above which was DIY.

    My 92 LS400 with 94k miles is the same story except I had to replace the driver's side rear oxygen sensor a few years ago and the factory anti-freeze was just drained and replaced within teh last year.

    Of course replacing brake pads and batteries is SOP.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Noticed a motorcycle coming toward me yesterday with headlamp on for "DRL" and the headlight seemed to be modulated at a fairly low frequency rate.

    Does anyone know for sure at what rate and the percent of modulation and is this legal?

    Sure gets one's attention!
  • mnfmnf Spokane WaPosts: 405
    We have a 2000 RX 300 with 47000 miles that has been services on time every time. The check engine light came on yesterday while my wife was driving. All fluids and temps were fine and it just about ready to get a oil change. I am taking it in tomorrow i expect it may be some sensor of some kind has anyone else ran across this and if so how much do you think it will cost. Thanks for your help... Matt
  • avery1avery1 Posts: 373
    Most likely someone didn't tighten the gas cap That happened to me a couple of times. Or the charcol "filter"(?) is bad. That went out on mine at about 75,000 miles. They paid for the part and I paid for the labor.
  • mnfmnf Spokane WaPosts: 405
    After they plugged it in they said it was the AIR FLOW METER shortage to a tune of $275.00 ($175.00 parts)$50.00 labor $50.00 Dig fee. Does this sound right has anyone came across this problem on a 2000 with only 47,000 miles. It runs fine and has not shown any signs of trouble up to the Check Engine Light coming on. Thanks for all your input... Matt
  • avery1avery1 Posts: 373
    Why isn't this under warranty? Often states have required longer warranties for exhaust/smog components.
  • mnfmnf Spokane WaPosts: 405
    I told them that i would get back to them and brought it home. I looked in the manual and it says that some are covered up to 8 years or 80,000 but if i read it right it is at 4 years or 50,000 miles where i miss on the year part by 6 months. If it had the California emission it would be covered for 7 years or 70,000. I will call the lexus dealer in the am. I had it a Toyota dealer that is closer to home. Thanks for your input...... Matt
  • jguojguo Posts: 49
    Is this the mass air flow meter? Call around to see if you can get the part cheaper from other Lexus or Toyota dealer. The installation is very easy. It's right next to the air filter box. Only need a simple screw driver, 5 minutes job tops.
  • mnfmnf Spokane WaPosts: 405
    Yes it is, I am going to look around and a friend said the same that it was a easy installation. Thanks... Matt
  • gteach26gteach26 Posts: 576
    I've been looking forever for a double-wide armrest for my wife's RX300 with no luck. It seems now that I have found the PERFECT product... BUT for the PT cruiser.

    Here's a link to the pic of what I'm looking for:

    Does anyone know if there is a "Lexus" version of this anywhere out there? Those little folding thingies on the RX are my only gripe about the vehicle.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I bought my first car in 1961, a 1956 Ford. In all of the intervening time I have never changed out automatic transmission fluid as a maintenance matter. Typically drove cars over 100k miles with no indication of problems.

    This past weekend I did an oil and filter change on my 01 AWD RX300, 38k miles. In doing so I checked the transmission fluid, look and smell. Not normal red, more brownish, and smelled slightly burned.

    The RX has the trailer towing package, extra transmission fluid cooling heat exchanger, and NO trailer hitch.

    Just to cross-check, the 92 LS at 94k miles still has normal look and smell of transmission fluid.

    Is the RX torque convertor undersized for the load rating??
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