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Lexus RX 300



  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    The Guide included replacing the timing belt at 90,000 miles for the FWD RX 300 that I looked up; in fact, that was about 2/3rds of the cost of the service. The small print says:

    "The facility that services your vehicle may perform different, greater, or fewer procedures that can affect the cost you incur."

    Steve, Host
  • lkatkinslkatkins Posts: 1

    I am a new Lexus SUV owner. I recently purchased a 2002 RX300 and was very pleased with the entire process and feel I got a very good deal. However, the one item that's missing is the NAV. What I wanted to know was: 1. Would it be advantageous to purchase the NAV and, 2. What is a "ball park" total cost figure including installation?
    Thank you in advance and, I think I will never drive anything less :-)
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    I don't know if this is available to be dealer-installed, check with the parts dept. at your Lexus dealer. The "NV" navigation system option, factory installed, has an invoice of $1,980 and MSRP of $2,350 for the 2006 RX330; for the 2007 RX350, invoice is $2,225 and MSRP $2,650.

    Pete :(
  • sandeep4sandeep4 Posts: 1
    I hear a rattling sound coming out of the engine / air conditioner. I think it must be some belt. Any ideas. It comes on for a few seconds then goes away..more predominant while idling.
  • avery1avery1 Posts: 373
    My RX has a growling rattling sound coming from the dash/ac area and I've been told it is problably a motor for one of the gates or fans controlling airflow. I have been living with it for a number of months because they say they have to take out the dash to fix it and it will be expensive.
  • mylexus1mylexus1 Posts: 1
    Can anybody from Houston, TX recommend where I can take my RX300 - 2000 for a little fender bender repair before my hubby notices it?
  • dick1dick1 Posts: 21
    Go buy a new car!
  • rick53rick53 Posts: 1
    I need to replace the tires on my 2002 RX 300. Not sure which ones to get - one store quoted my a Michelin for $200+/tire...not sure though is these are necessary or even if Michelin is a good SUV tire. Thoughts and experiences from others? Thanks.
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    My ’99 RX300 sat a few weeks at a time while I was not driving after some surgery. I kept the battery up, but now I have a sluggish driver’s door lock solenoid. I sprayed lube in the RR door latch, and it was cured and seems fine for months now, but the LF (driver’s) solenoid is sluggish, although the lock works correctly when latched manually or with the key. This is a recurrence of a problem the car had about August of 1998 when it was new and under warrantee, and I was dealing with a dealer whose many fixes on one of the first RX's were merely cosmetic, although this one lasted longer than the other repairs they made.

    I have the door panel mostly apart with the intention to either clean or lube the actuator and components, or just replace the solenoid if needed. However, I have not yet been able to remove the interior panel.

    I removed the wood switch panel and the screw behind (with some work!) but the interior panel seems to be hung up at the inside door handle.

    I removed the screw behind the interior handle holding the plastic backing trim piece, and knowing prior Toyotas, I am assuming that plastic piece needs to be removed so the door handle can pass through the panel when it is removed from the door. I just haven’t been able to find how to remove it without damaging anything. I tried prying it up with nylon spatulas so I wouldn't damage anything, but it's not budging.

    Is there another clip holding the panel at the inside door handle (or trim piece)?

    Does the trim piece behind the door handle need to be removed from the panel to allow the handle to pass through? If so, can you say how?

    Any and all suggestions and/or details are appreciated!
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    I hope this helps to alleviate some mystery because I think others have come across this problem. With the help of a very kind fellow Edmunds member who went out of his way and was prepared with a repair manual when I should have been, I was able to find the hidden snaps and catches. Also, I'm adding some information that wasn't included to save some frustration. I want to share this information in case someone else wants to have a go at it because I found out that the sluggish power drivers door lock solenoid is common part to need replacing in the otherwise fairly reliable car.

    The guy at the Lexus parts counter admits the driver's door power lock solenoid fails at a higher than usual rate as the RX ages; he said they went through six of these just last week, and the customer waiting behind me in line said his 2001 RX had the same problem, so he's just been locking the car manually. I guess no one ever got stranded because the power door lock didn't go on it's own, but I like everything to work right, so I wanted to fix it.

    You have to buy and replace the entire latch (lock assy 6904048020). The solenoid also contains the light switches & a window switch that's operated by the key from the outside, however Lexus does not sell the solenoid (power door lock actuator motor) separately. The list price is over $300! The parts guy was really understanding that I had another dealer already replace this item once and it failed again (however that was 8 years ago), and that I only wanted the solenoid which is not how it's sold, so he offered 15% off to shut me up. Needing the part, I thanked him and took him up on it.

    To remove the door panel, start with the window up and disconnect the battery because the lock solenoid will activate the window when the lock rod is moved, and that's when your hands/tools are in there. Besides the obvious screws at the bottom and upholstery pins, you need to remove the inside door handle "bezel" by removing the screw, pushing the tabs in at the top and bottom of the corners nearest the lock button and prying it out and toward the rear (it has a slotted clip behind it). That's what was really holding things up for me. Then remove the wood switch panel by carefully prying upwards at the very top with a cloth covered screwdriver, unplug and remove. Remove the screw from behind the panel. Then remove the courtesy light by pushing the screwdriver between the panel and the light on either side, so you can unplug and remove it. At this point the door panel can be unclipped, tilted up, removed, cleaned, and set aside.

    After the panel is out of the way, to replace the lock/solenoid assy, remove the inside handle (it's self-explanatory), and disconnect it from the cables. Warm the mastic slightly, and peel back the plastic barrier. Remove the bolt at the bottom of the window track nearest the lock. The track will move freely, and you can hang it up on the side-impact beam. Now the slightly awkward part: Remove the two rods that go from the lock cylinder and the exterior handle down to the latch (lock assy). You unclip the plastic clips at the top, swing them sideways, and pull the rod out of the hole for each one. Unscrew the lock using a #30 Torx bit, swing it sideways so you can unplug the two connectors, and remove the whole assy, including the two cables that go to the interior lock and handle, and two rods that go up to the lock cylinder and exterior handle. Now you are ready to replace it with a new one!

    Yeah! Now everything works like a new Lexus should. :) Thanks again Pete, and best luck on the new RX350. :shades: I hope it's just as trouble-free, except they improved the lock solenoids.
  • bigjattbigjatt Posts: 5
    I just purchased a 1999 RX300 and have a hitch receiver installed. I need to wire the trailer lights etc via the pigtail on the trailer. The trailer has two break/tail lights and four little side "orange lights". I know the RX does not have a buiilt in harness to tap into. Could some one direct me to a source for the parts and wiring instructions to connect a trailer to the 1999 RX 300. I am pretty handy with electiral and mechanical work so would like to do it my self. Thanks in advance

  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    I posted complete instructions on this way back on 9/4/99 but it seems that it is no longer archived! I have a hard copy and since it was rather lengthy it would be easier if I just sent you a pdf. Email me with your eMail address and I'll be glad to send it to you.

    Pete :)
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    ...but it seems that it is no longer archived!

    It's still archived but our archives are temporarily offline. They will return when some system performance issues are resolved.

    tidester, host
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Please visit the Lexus RX 300: Real World MPG discussion and give us a gas mileage report. Thanks,

    Steve, Host
  • licuananlicuanan Posts: 1
    Bought a 2001 Rx300 with a Nav. have 57K miles. wife's car. Nav working very well. Had to change battery. April 2006. Nav started to wonder, I would reset (Dealer calls it Recalibrate and to do it for $80.00.)still wonders. Went to a dealer about the problem. Was told problem was the DVD paid $387.00plus $57.00 to take 2000 Dvd and insert new CD. Then was charged for recalribrating. Did not work. was told that it is the antenna had to be changed.$188.00 plus tax. Did not have in parts. Next day tech said that he had to do a diagnosis, cost $300.00 plus parts. I ask how much, they said they would given me a price after, may be $ parts. So,here I have a Nav no direction.

    I wonder if someone can guide me. When turn off motor and restart, I will be 35 miles away from where sit. I reset and it is okay. Then it would change and I notice that the compass would change direction, from North to south. and I am 40 miles away again. What can be the problem? Thank you.
  • joanziejoanzie Posts: 51
    Has anyone ever had a problem with the windows on their RX 300? Mine is a 2001 and I had to have the drivers side motor replaced! Naturally this happened after my warranty was up! Joanzie
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Too many toll stations..??

    Or maybe McD drive throughs...
  • lynch130lynch130 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 RX300 with 130K miles...always maintained well....engine check light came on and the dealer wanted $150.00 just to run the diagnostic....I told him to forget it since the problem could be poor gas, a loose gas cap or something else very minor...anyone know where you can get the diagnotic read other than lexus itself?
  • joanziejoanzie Posts: 51
    I have e-z pass and never go to Mc donald's I guess I got a bad window Lexus. They did give me a brake on the repair as they said it should not have happened.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    At that mileage I would guess that you need a new oxygen sensor or two.
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    Remove and clean Mass Air Flow (MAF) Meter located on top of air cleaner, worked for me! Very simple procedure, search for further info, this has been discussed previously.

    Pete :)
  • sen8sen8 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know what I can use to clean the roof and side panels of my RX 330 (interior)?

    Sherry :confuse:
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Auto Zone will analyze it for you free.
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    Hi Pete,

    I too, have been working on this little project. I've been hoping the archives would come up by now so I didn't bug you again, but now I need to do something soon.

    My '99 RX came with the standard "towing package" but that doesn't include the wiring. Thanks for any help you can offer!
  • enjetienjeti Posts: 12
    I have the same problem as well with our 2001 RX, but it's the front passenger side. Dealer always said that they could not duplicate the problem and finally last week I was able to prove it to him that there is a problem with it. They are replacing the motor next week.
  • joanziejoanzie Posts: 51
    The dealer replaced my motor also, since it was out of warranty they only charged me labor to install. Actually it is still not right with the new motor but works. When the window is down half way and you click the button to go up it now goes down and then up, but I am not going back as ling as it does go up eventually! I thought I was the only one that got a bad motor! Thanks for posting!
  • jrdowneyjrdowney Posts: 96
    Hello to my fellow RX fans. I was in D.C. last week and AC in my 2003 RX was working fine. Parked the car for a two-hour meeting. Got in and started for the drive home (another two hours) and suddenly had no AC, just lots of HOT air! Checked relevant fuses but all were ok. The vehicle goes into the dealer tomorrow for check/repair. Should be under warranty since I only have 35k miles. Not too happy to have this happen give the age and presumed quality of the vehicle. Any ideas? My guess is a compressor failure.


  • erik_herik_h Posts: 77
    I have an early '99 and live in Richmond, VA with the original AC, no problems, I would say this failure is unusual. It could be a number of things including a leak in the system, compressor failure, etc... Don't feel bad, it should be repaired under warranty and you should get many more trouble free years from the AC.
  • grace5grace5 Posts: 1
    I've been looking/test-driving both the '02 RX 300 and the '02 Volvo V70. Love the feel of the Lexus and the style of the Volvo. Any comments/concerns/advice from owners of either vehicle would be greatly appreciated.
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    At one time I was looking at the V70. I thought it was a great car, handled great and all. The V70 is a much longer, lower car. The RX sits upright and fits in tighter spaces. The Lexus service is fantastic at the right dealer (careful) but expensive. Find a local Toyota dealer you are happy with and save a bundle for non-warrantee stuff. My local Toyota dealer treats me great.

    I bought my '99 RX (first year) because of the predicted reliability of the RX compared to the V70. The RX has a few common quirks, but if you are careful when buying used, it's a pretty safe bet.

    Watch for an RX that has not been used for a lot of urban idling... There are transmission and sludge issues on abused or poorly maintained vehicles. Look for these signs:

    Check maintainence records. Check for pink transmission fluid. Even if the vehicle didn't/will not tow: was it equipped with a factory "tow prep-package" including the transmission and heavy-duty radiator cooling (and perhaps not hitch? (if so, great!) You can tell either from the original window sticker if it's available, or for 2 wheel-drive models you can look inside the vent in the front bumper below the passenger side headlight with a flashlight. Behind the white plastic windshield washer tank, you should be able to see a small radiator with small hoses plumbed to the large radiator. That would be the auxiliary transmission cooler. That's what you are looking for. I think all 4WD had a trans cooler, anyway. Also, look at the brake pedal for a lot of previous "city" driving wear as an indicator. Parking lot door dings to tell a story? Did the back seat get a lot of "soccer-mom/dad" use? A vehicle with lots of highway miles in good condition may be preferable to a low mileage city used stop-and-go car.

    Make sure all the "All Auto" power windows work. Make sure all power door locks work well... the power actuator for the driver's door lock gets old when the vehicle has sat for a while, and then needs to be replaced. It's not as expensive as a Volvo, but it's not cheap, either.

    These are pretty generic to any used car, but in particular common to the RX.

    I hope this gives you some helpful hints. Both are nice cars, but now you have some info to go on so hopefully you get a car that will last for years (like we do).

    Let us know more about it, OK?
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