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Isuzu Trooper



  • chymerchymer Posts: 7
    Yes, it's a "power flush", not just drained. Fluid is forced into the transmission with pressure. They use a ATF Exchanger. The guy in message #8033 attached a pdf file with information on the Bilstein R-2000. It sounds like it saves tons of time, but I'm voting against it after talking with mechanics and the trouble my dad had. It probably is a great procedure, but I won't be taking that chance.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    When we did a drain-fill we got out ~3-4Quarts. That's less than 1/2 of what's in there. When they did a flush of my system the flushed through 30 quarts til it came through the system clean.

    The problem is that your AT is essentially a ton of passageways and nooks and crannies, along with your torque converter which holds 2-3quarts itself. So by doing a drain and fill you are only getting the stuff in the pan out.

    I did my flush at 50K and will do it again at 70K for sure.

  • steelpicksteelpick Posts: 12
    My 98 Trooper's voltage meter has always run at a little above the 13..maybe 15 all the time. Yesterday I noticed that while idling it had dipped to where 10 or 11 would be. It sometimes goes back up to the 14 or 15, sometimes just above 13 but has been fluctuating and it never did this before. My dad stuck a voltage meter on the battery and it only read 10.5 volts. Do I have a battery going bad, or an alternator going bad?

  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    According to the pdf of the fluid exchanger, the machine replaces fluid at the same rate that it's being pumped out. So it might be under pressure, but no more pressure than it normally is. It seems to be a good process, and I hate to condemn it based on one bad report. I don't see that it's the machine's fault that the transmission failed. Anyway, I will probably give it a shot for all of the reasons stated. If I'm going to shy away from it, I want to know specifically what it does that's bad.

        To the guy with the fluctuating voltmeter, I recommend that you go down to any auto parts store and have them put a battery load tester on the battery. You can rule out the battery for no cost in this manner. If the battery is bad, replace it and then observe the meter again.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    I replace the ATF in my 1999 using pretty much the procedure outlined in this article - - - tml

    Namely, I use the AT to pump the old fluid out and a hand pump to pump the new fluid back in. I pump in through the return line and at the end pull the fill plug (a downwards facing plug on the bottom of the AT) on a running engine to set the level. I get out about 10qts of used fluid before the fluid turns to a new cherry red. I usually flush through an 11th qt just to be sure. This leaves me the 12th qt. of my 3 gallon purchase. I use this last qt. to routinely swap out used power steering fluid.

    FWIW I do my AT fluid changes about every 2-1/2yrs./25k miles. At this point the fluid still looks quite good but it is noticeably darker. No doubt I could much go longer but for the price of 3gallons of ATF and my time I consider this very cheap AT insurance.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    You guys are making me affraid to replace my 1995 Trooper 5-speed with a much easier to find automatic Trooper.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    On the same notes, of all the 4L30s I know out there (at least 100+) I know of 2 failures total.

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I will be taking ownership tomorrow of a 27K miles 2001 Trooper-S 5-speed 4wd, one owner well cared for etc..
    Are the front automatic locking hubs on this non-TOD Trooper identical to my 1995?
    This will be my third Trooper and finally I will have a limited slip differential.
    My 1995 Trooper has the power folding mirrors, the 2001 S has heated, but not folding mirrors, is the wiring already in there and the folding mechanism the same from 1995 to 2002 so I can swap that functionality before the old Trooper goes to salvage yard?
    I have Dueler Revo AT tires with around 10K miles on the 1995 Trooper, and the 2001 has the default new Trooper tires with 27K miles, is it worth swapping those as well? I think yes.
    I am planning on buyng the 1995 Trooper back from the insurance tataling process and selling it myself to a salvage yard that I have already contacted and they are interested in it.
    I am planning on not swapping the OME suspension parts, since they are relatively inexpensive I'll get new OME parts some time.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    Congrats on your new find! I would only like to express a word of caution when it comes to swapping your tires though. If you were pushed rapidly forward (as you described) from 0 to 30MPH and hit another vehicle in the process, those tires (based on my own experience) won't be any good in a long run. Chances are that each one of your tire surfaces were shaved off in a few random spots and even though you might not feel anything now, the "bumps" will get much worse over time (in like 3K miles).
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Good show...

    There is a plate on the firewall in the engine compartment, verify that it has a "G80" listed on it. This is the LSD code I believe.

    I think springs and tires are a good idea to swap. If you like the OME springs.

    I don't think the mirrors would work...but if they do I would like to try to wire my 1999 S ones up at some point.

    Oh yeah...consider new shocks...the stock ones in the most recent years seem to be very soft and my opinion.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    01 should have an LSD stock.

  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    boxtrooper, regarding buying your totaled Trooper back from Insurance company, I would be interested in how much one has to pay. Might be useful information in case something happens in the future.

    I have a 1999 Trooper with Luxury/Performance package and if something like what happened to you happened to me, I would like to keep my Trooper for parts.

    BTW, I think I would prefer a 5-speed over the automatic -- how smoothly does the clutch and shifter work?
  • dmigeldmigel Posts: 15
    We totalled a 96 trooper in April. It was actually borderlined totalled. The front end was crumpled up pretty bad, so I didn't really want to drive it after that, so I persuaded body shop to call it totalled, saying that it needed $8,000 in repairs. Insurance said they would give me $10,000 for it, which was more than fair, and offered to sell it back to me for $500. I probably should have but I wouldn't have had a clue what to do with it.
  • djweberdjweber Posts: 18
    I have a 99 Trooper and needing new tires. I know the Fortera's are 'less aggressive' than Revos. I am not concerned about off-road but live in Chicago and travel to mountains of WV frequently. So highway performance a concern, but need good snow/ice/wet traction (as opposed to mud, etc. off-road)as well.

    Are the Revos quiet enough on the open highway? Are the Forteras sticky enough for fairly severe winter weather?

    Any comments appreciated.
  • djweberdjweber Posts: 18
    I am also looking to replace the OEM shocks on my 99 Trooper. Would really like to get rid of some of the 'squishy' cornerning so replacing all at once at about 50k miles. (Tire blow-out prompted the tire search...orig GY Wrangler AP...was never overwhelmed by them...believe TOD made them passable)

    Reading past posts was wondering if any other experiences with KYB Mono Max shocks. They are avail at about $50 apiece from Tirerack which is where I'm getting the tires. Anyone believe Monroe Reflexes clearly superior?...or vice versa? Some mention of Bilsteins but no specific models.

  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    Try the sway bar bushing replacement as detailed on Mike's website, I just did it over the weekend and it tightened up the handling a noticable amount. Well worth the $20 investment.

    One note though, 1/4" washers did not fit, I had to get 5/16".
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Posts: 107
    Just got back from vacation in Gulf Shores, AL. This topic has really stirred things up ;-)

    My friend who owns the Precision Tune was the first victim of his own T-Tech flush machine. After getting the machine in, he had his guys flush his Maxima (90k miles). His tranny lasted about a week before dying. $2800 dollars later, he was back on the road. I made the same mistake with a 96 Mazda 626 (84k miles). Seeing that black fluid come out and the pink fluid go in made me think I was adding life to the transmission. It died less than a week after the flush. Fortunately, I had an extended warranty and only had to pay $50 of a $2900 bill. If you get on the program early, (30k 60k 90k 120k), it seems like a good thing to do, but don't try it on a high mileage tranny with no prior flush. The old fluid has had no working detergent or cleaners in it for a long time. The new fluid is full of it and and begins to slowly clean and break loose all of that crud that has built up over time. That would explain why it takes a week or so for it to fail.

    The filter change with a few quarts of new fluid doesn't seem to shock a high mileage tranny like the flush does, but like everything else in life, do so at your own risk ;-)

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    The 2001 in 5th gear at 70 MPH, 2700 RPM, 21 MPG.
    The 1995 in 5th gear at 70 MPH, 3100 RPM, 19 MPG.
    The seller told me they normally get 21 MPG on highway. So far for me the fuel gage covering the half tank mark after about 230 miles.
    I was also told that there were other offers made to buy my Trooper and the seller kept his word even turned down more money from other buyers to sell it to me. I am very thankful for that.
    The 2001 has a far quieter and smoother engine, more responsive and a lot more low end torque also.
    The manual transmission has a crisper feel to shifting, but also the clutch travel is a little longer but the actual engagement happens in less of the clutch pedal travel towards the top. Shifting somehow feels more precise, not easier or harder just significantly different than a 1995.
    So far I have only driven it home, and there it waits until proper registration documents are complete.
  • gprodickgprodick Posts: 36
    I've had the Birdgestone Revos on my Trooper for about 7000 miles now. They are incredibly quiet. I would say silent. I know they look pretty aggressive, but somehow they have managed to make them quiet, as well. You can drive down the road with the window open and you'll not here a sound from these tires. I imagine as they wear they will become a little noisier, but for now they are greeeat!

    I previously had the Pirelli Scorpions. They were much noisier than the Revos. I never was particularly thrilled with them, and found the snow/ice traction to be marginal, although others on this board have liked them. I haven't had a chance to try the Revos in the snow, yet. They do seem to work very well in the rain.

    I'm running 265/75's in a standard load rating. They are not only quiet, but run exceedingly smooth. No shimmy, no shake, nothing. They actually seem to be round. What a concept in a truck tire.

    I always had probelms with the Scorpions. They just never were really smooth -always had a little vibration here and there. I had 265/75's in a "C" load rating. When I got the Revos I was stunned by the difference. Going from a "C" load rating to a Standard Load rating may have helped the ride a little - I don't know.

    After 7000 miles, I would have to say that I would recommend no other tire than the Revo.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I had them on for a trip up North and had not troubles. I was getting much better traction than a friend's new Suburban on snow over ice over pavement on a steep hill, and he had limited slip while I did not.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Oh my. I cannot remember the last time I got over 17 with my Automatic. I typically get 12-16...on good days.
  • djweberdjweber Posts: 18
    Thanks for quick feedback...looking to order today or tomorrow b/c trip coming up and no spare. I have Bridgestone Revos on my Maxima SE and am pleased. Much better snow/wet grip and highway ride than orig Goodyears, but did give up some cornering performance. Of course, the OEMs were a more dry pave sports oriented category tire.

    Side question: Notice any change in MPG with Revos? ....My mileage is on the low side as is with GY Wrang APs now.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I have Bridgestone Dueler A/Ts (not Revo's just the regular A/T). They are very quiet on the highway. However, they are more sensitive to road variance and grooves than standard highway tires. So sometimes I get a little feeling in my steering around 55 MPH. Higher speeds seems to smooth it out. So just be ready that an agressive A/T tread may adjust the overall ride you get. I am happy with my A/Ts. I would buy A/Ts again.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    Hey some of you were wondering what the insurance company was going to offer for totaling my 1995 Trooper, so here it is. Their first offer was $5300, I asked for a recount, and their second offer was $5500 after input from two local dealers. Then they add $165 tax and $55 tag for a grand total of $5720 out the door.
    To buy back the "salvage" as they call it, would cost me $1050 and somewhere the taxes get lost so they would take $5720-$1050 and get $4434.75.
    I have a visit scheduled from the local truck salvage yard to let them bid on buying the "salvage" of my 1995. If they offer more than $5720-$4435=$1285 plus a margin to make it worth my time to sell it to them they will get it. Otherwise the insurance company will pick it up after the title has been signed over to them.
  • paul179paul179 Posts: 10
    Does anyone out there have any recommendations for a quick way to change the belt on a 2000 Trooper? Dealer wanted $145.00 but the belt only costs about $20.00!!

    Any recommended manuals, books, etc?

  • Did the sway bar bushing replacement last summer and it made a big difference. As the Trooper approaches 30,000 miles would also like to replace the shocks. Like "djweber" above, would also like a recommendation on new shocks. I've searched and read posts regarding Monroe, KYB, Bilstein, Rancho, etc... just not sure which would be the best for a trooper that rarely gets offroad. I'm leaning towards the KYB Monomax myself unless someone knows of a newer/better. Also, the Rancho 9000's might be nice for their adjustability? What do you think?
  • dmigeldmigel Posts: 15
    any recommendations on the exact wiring harness needed to go from the preexisting isuzu wiring to the hitch, using one of those bold on sockets?
  • dcmooredcmoore Posts: 14
    I just had KYB Monomax shocks installed on my 99 Trooper (53K miles), and the difference was noticeable though not overwhelming. All in all, a worthwhile upgrade if you can find a good deal on the Monomax shocks. I can't compare the KYBs to other shocks in terms of performance because I have no frame of reference. I couldn't justify spending more $$ for something like the adjustable Ranchos or Bilsteins, so I figured the KYBs were a nice compromise. Like Newtroop, I rarely go offroad.

    Might have to do the sway bar bushing replacement. I keep reading that it makes a significant difference.

    I also have a question about the tranny flush issue that has been discussed recently on this board. I was thinking of doing a flush in the near future (I'll probably be around 55K miles or so), but now I'm wondering if I should do so. I've never had the tranny flushed before -- just drained. Is it too late to do a first flush at 55K miles? Some of the posts above suggest that if the transmission has significant mileage on it and hasn't been flushed before, I should avoid flushing it. But how much mileage is too much? If anyone has any additional thoughts on this subject, I'd appreciate reading them.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    Good lord, $120!! The serpentine belt is one of the easiest things to change on your vehicle!

    Look a your engine from the front. On the left you will see a tensioning pulley for the belt on a spring loaded swingarm. In the middle of the pulley there is a bolt head. Put a socket and breaker bar or socket wrench on the bolt and crank to the right. Instead of the bolt turning, the whole swingarm will swivel, loosening the belt...slip the belt off of all the various pulleys and then install the new one using the reverse procedure.

    It is slightly tricky to get the new belt positioned on all the pulleys, but if you get someone to help hold it in place that will help...although I was able to do it myself. Just remember to make a drawing of the belt route before removing it.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    I think the main issue is new fluid in a severely neglected AT. You have done a partial fluid change before 55k. Therefore I think you could probably do a complete flush.

    Just to be safe though I suggest you at least do an initial check of the fluid.

    If it looks really bad, you may want to only do a partial fluid change, a pan drop, and a screen/filter change to remove the loosened junk. Then maybe wait a while (a few months?) and do a complete flush/filter change.

    If the fluid looks slightly bad then maybe do the flush but also drop the pan and change the screen/filter. This is probably the official Isuzu approach.

    If the fluid looks reasonably good then maybe do the flush. Or, if you want to be more careful, you could just do a partial fluid change again. Then, wait a few months before doing a complete flush.

    Just my hopefully helpful thoughts. But then again I am not a real mechanic so your mileage may vary and new ATs are very expensive so be careful.
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