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Isuzu Trooper



  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I am finally titled over and legal except for the emmissions sticker which I will get while at the shop for fluid changes and most of the 30K maintenance.
    MPG was highway until the needle was at half, miles at indicated half tank level are 230 miles or so, then around town short 10 minute trips and even at idle several times for 20 minutes each.
    If I were wanting extra battery capacity for occational use I would go to a larger battery such as the AGM 105AH LifeLine deep cycle battery from Concord, it has 1100 CCA IIRC, and 105AH is about twice the juice of a regular car battery. The 105AH AGM batery weighs around 70lb, but is normal car battery size except about 2 inched longer, It would fit with at most a battery tray adjustment. Note: AGM starting batteries can withstand deep cycling much better than old "bucket-of-acid" style batteries. The Optima Starting battery is rated for 50 deep cycles.
    Fluids: I am going to use all RedLineOil for transfer case, tranmission, axles, and power steering, but what fluids are best for coolant and brake fluid?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'd use a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze, prestone. Then add a container of redline water wetter.

    For brake fluid I've been using the valvoline syntec semi-synthetic dot3/dot4.

    Also had good luck with the yellow containers of Delphi DOT 5.1 fluid.

  • djweberdjweber Posts: 18
    Just back from 1600+ road trip w/ '99...2 adults, two kids and one large dog and loaded with rooftop carrier....averaged 14.5 mpg...13.5 to 16.5 mpg range at high 60s to low 70s mph mostly. Details on rack, carrier, new shocks and tires to follow.
  • kobokokoboko Posts: 34
    My 2001 Trooper is up for its 15K service. The maintenance schedule calls for 1) Front & rear axle oil change, 2) Transfer case oil change plus the usual tire rotation, inspections, etc. Is this all that I need to do? Do I have to take it to the dealer or can i have a place like Firestone do it (where i usually take my other car). Helpful tips would be welcome. BTW, dealer wants around $275 and Firestone $200. Thanks!
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    Any decent shop should easily be able to do the service.

    At a minimum I would also swap out the antifreeze. If you want to baby your AT, assuming you have one, you may also want to have them do a fluid swap on it. Same for the brake fluid.
  • Hello everyone. Owner of 97 S Trooper with 56K and having a problem with intermitant hard up and down shifting on auto trans at start up. If I shut the car off for a few minutes and start it again, it will shift fine. Looking for any ideals. Dealer service cound not find anything wrong. All scheduled service done at dealer.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Posts: 347
    Hi pactrooper....Mine did exactly the same thing. Couldn't trace it. However, check your brake light bulbs and fuses.

    At the time, mine had a blown brake light bulb. Paisan on this forum had the same thing with his and it turned out to be a brake light fuse.
  • Sawas_e,
    I did check the brake lights and they work fine. I will check the other electrical items though. I saw a post on another site mentioning hard shifting happening on a Rodeo and cause was altenator voltage spikes. Other than this problem the Trooper has been the best car I ever had.
  • My first suv/Trooper/Isuzu experience - $2500 for a 1990 with a rebuilt engine, 4cyl/4 speed manual. It's running great, anything I should look out for? Thanks!
  • cobbocobbo Posts: 34
    Aloha again ya'll...
    Just figured I'd drop a quick line to let you know that I dropped T-3 (my 2001 Trooper LTD 4WD) off for his 60k service this am....only at 59k right now, but brought him in early b/c he was lunging at lights - sit there w/the brake on and he'd kick up to 2k rpm....which makes for an interesting drive to work...

    Anyway, initial estimate is $450 for the 60k service, but I held off on doing the timing belt which would've been another $380...will let ya'll know how it goes...
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    Timing belt change interval on my 99 is 75K. An 01 should be at least that or more...60K is too early IMO.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Posts: 347
    Guys...for those that are interested, the Holden Frontera (Isuzu Rodeo) has been removed from the market. I'm guessing this is because Holden is about to release it's new crossover vehicle and they probably felt one would impact the other in the marketplace.

    Here's the announcement on the new Holden Adventra - articleID=895

    Holden Jackaroo (Isuzu Trooper) is still there, now being built by Isuzu plants in Thailand and the Phillipines.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    Your Trooper should give you many years of great service. I can only think of two issues with that era vehicle. First, the valves need to be routinely adjusted. Second, some vehicles tend to have head gasket/head warping problems. Thus, you need to keep your cooling system in good shape.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I just looked up all the oils to replace on my new to me 2001 Trooper-S 5-Speed. My own mini 30K maintenance:
    replace fluids:
    Brake Fluid
    Rear Diff 80W140 Redline
    Front Diff 75W90 RedLine
    Transmission MTL RedLine
    Transfer Case MTL RedLine
    Power Steering High Temp ATF RedLine
    Engine Oil 10W30 Valvoline Synpower
    Coolant with Water Wetter RedLine
    Then do the 1st time in this state Emissions Test.
    Check front wheel bearings, if loose repack, if not leave them alone.
  • zuuluverzuuluver Posts: 2
    It is a 1985 2 door trooper2 with the 1.9 4 cylinder. Since this is my first trooper (second Isuzu) I've owned any warnings/advice would be appreciated, first can anyone tell me if the 85 1.9 is an ohc engine? I'm going to have to rebuild it due to the previous owners abuse.
    Thanks in advance
  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    Boxtrooper - my understanding of Redline Water Wetter is that it is used by racers, etc, who run pure water in the cooling system because it reduces the surface tension of the water and permits it to better conduct the heat away, as well as provide some corrosion resistance to metals that contact the pure water. Not sure you really need it if you're using the recommended 50/50 coolant/water mix.

    Of course, the decision is yours.

  • jrr2kjrr2k Posts: 35
    I took a recent trip to the local Isuzu dealership and talked with them about the companys future. They were upbeat about the next few years of Isuzu USA models.
    They are anxiouxly awaiting the arrival of the GDI (direct injection) Axiom. (Me too!)
    Here's some info: - l
    This lower-MPG, higher-horsepower engine technology will also be an option on the 2004 Rodeo.
    The Isuzu dealer also mentioned the proposed 7 passenger, 3rd row seating SUV due out in 2006. It will also have the GDI V6 and I was told it will essentialy be an import of Thailand's "Panther". Whatever they call it, it will fill the gap left by the Trooper.
    Panther info:
    Other encouraging Isuzu gossip is this article which shows that Isuzu USA won't go away without a fight.
    Cool stuff!
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    the coolant's ability to carry away heat in any car is better with less antifreeze. The antifreeze keeps the coolant from boiling, but reduces its heat carrying capacity. The max cooling with water wetter is with just water, but the effect is still there with the antifreeze, just in a reduced way. They have a lot to say on this topic on many web sites. check out what has to say, then search some others for a broader picture.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I had a 1.9L 1984. Drove it 201K miles without any engine problems.
    Mine had overhead cam and rockers with manual adjusters to limit the ticking, mine never had the ticking, I checked the clearance a couple times anyway to make sure it was OK.
    A friend of mine back then, had an older Chevy LUV truck with the same 1.9L engine. He rebuilt his heads only and the engine ran like new, he was amazd how nice it ran.
    My 1.9L had crankcase pressure after all those miles. Once I left the oil fill cap off, and the oil mist shot up and coated the open hood.
    My 1984 had a manual 4-speed transmission. It was the best shifting car I have ever shifted.
    I bought mine new with an extended engine warrantee because I thought there was no way the little 1.9L would hold up to pulling the 3000 lb. Trooper all over the place.
    I once when new tried to start the engine when it was already running, it was that quiet.
    Things that wore out: the water pump got a slow drip after only 140K miles, so I changed the belts forthe first time even though they looked fine. Later the alternator stopped having high enough output, so I put in a rebuilt one. The under carburator throttle plate developed enlarged holes where the shaft went through, I put on a new throttle plate.
    Oil consumption: At first none. Later after 30K miles 1qt. in a 3000 mile oil change. Toward 200K miles 1qt. in 1000 miles.
    Despite the little engine, the 1984 Trooper felt rel peppy, kind of eager to go. Off road it took me everywhere I wanted to go. I probably put several thousand mile off road on that Trooper all over the western USA. The feel off road was like a tightly suspended bicycle, light and happy to go not heavy and slogging like some cushy SUVs.
    I drove it to Alaska once. I put 6000 miles on it in 2 weeks. The windshield got lots of chips, but the PVC and screen over 1/2" square chicken wire "brush guard" I made for it and painted to match the unpainted bumper worked great.
    Top speed down hill with a tail wind and several minutes to build up to it was just beyond the speedometer's peg of 85 mph. I did that twice both times while passing.
    I had it up to the doors in mud/sand/edge of a drop off into a lake and the tires were already deflated for traction, I had so much traction at the tires that I could not turn them at all, the clutch started to smoke, so I traded ice water in the desert for help from a guy with a big GM Blazer at noon, after going door to door 25 miles away asking to borrow more chains etc.. my 1984 Trooper was agian free. Stuck at noon, working hard on it until midnight, then I drove 4 hours to sleep in a barn on top of peach boxes.
    THat's enough wonderful memories from a trusty old Trooper to hold you for now. Sorry for the long post for those of you who like them short.
  • wildbucwildbuc Posts: 88
    Hello, I have recently bought a Casita 17' camper which weighs about 2600 lbs when loaded. My 99 Trooper is rated to tow 5000 lbs but I am concerned about its "real world" towing capacity since I will be camping often in mountain areas (Appalachians). What do you guys think? Is my Trooper up to the job? Do I need a transmission cooler? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    Troopers are wonderful tow vehicles because of their study frame and suspension. The engine and transmission also are up to the task because Isuzu has included plenty of cooling capacity.
    Still, if towing a long long way then it would be a good precaution to fill the transmission and rear differential with a high temp rated synthetic fluid, that will both keep the temperature down and handle higher temperatures with less problems. I think auto trans problems from overheating are from the ATF burning, the sysnthetic will tolerate much higher temperatures before that happens. Just good insurance. Take all this witha grain of salt coming from a guy that tows with a stick shift, but my brother tows heavy with a very hot running automatic despite the added cooler in his Dodge truck. Isuzu's can accept the trans cooler, but it should not be needed.
  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    A nice feature of the trooper is that the transmission will lock the torque converter in both 3rd and 4th gears. If the transmission begins to "hunt," you should move the shifter to the "3" position. That will keep the TC locked as much as possible, thus keeping the fluid as cool as possible. With the TC locked, the fluid coupling is inoperative and the fluid will not heat up nearly as much as it would if the TC were functioning normally.

  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    I have towed my smallish pop-up camper through the Rockies several times with no problems with my 99, though my camper doesn't weigh as much as yours ('bout a thousand pounds less, actually). Never had any overheating problems at all.

    I did install a tranny cooler, because they are cheap insurance, and I couldn't find anything negative about them. The only negative I can think of is if a hose leaks all your fluid out, so if you do put one in, double clamp the connections.
  • wildbucwildbuc Posts: 88
    Thanks tremendously guys for your good advice--which I very much needed. I definitely will shift to 3rd on steep grades and will soon have a better grade of trans. fluid installed.

    I am somewhat cautious, however, of choosing a proper trans. fluid since I have had 2 cars ruined by allowing mechanics to put in fluid of their own selection. One mechanic put in an incorrect fluid for the make of vehicle and another time the transmission was way over-filled. Both transmissions went out within 4k miles.

    I hear that synthetics are better. Can anyone recommend a good fluid?
  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    Mobil 1. It meets all requirements for Dexron II, Dexron III, and Mercon. It is synthetic and will meet your requirements nicely. Redline is also a popular, if rather expensive, synthetic alternative.

  • pe1227pe1227 Posts: 15
    Hi, I am a newbie here. I have just purchased a 98 trooper at auction with 76k. Unfortunately, there are no maintanence records with this vehicle, so I don't know what has been done to it. Is there any critical service that I should do immediately? Also I was considering changing to synthetic oil, but I don't want the engine to start leaking, Has anyone done the switch with 76k miles on the engine? Thanks for your help.
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    One thing you might try, is going to a dealer and plug the V.I.N.# into the service computer system, they typically have alot of history in there (obviously, only if it was serviced at a dealer).

    Assuming you have an owners manual, I would go to the maintenance schedule under severe conditions and do what you feel is necessary. I believe under "severe condition" the timing belt should be changed at 70k. Good Luck.
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    the t-belt at 60k for "extreme" and 75k for "normal". I just did mine at 76k and I tow fairly regularly. The tech said it did show signs of going. The teeth on the belt were a little marked up in the center.

    I had the bearings repacked since they spend some time in water. I also did the 60k service at that point mainly for the fluids involved.

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