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Isuzu Trooper



  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    and cheap if you want Black, most shops shoot it alot and can put small pieces in with other orders.
  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    I read the posts about oil consumption and went out and checked mine. At 3,500 miles, I am down about 1/3 quart. There certainly is a wide variation in oil consumption with these engines. Be interesting if we can determine the reason for this - whether it is design, when manufactured, breakin, driving style, etc. Anyone know got any theories?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Is not likely. My buddy has the same truck produced @ the same time as mine, but he doesn't burn a stitch of oil.

  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    Isuzu short blocks are assembled only on Fridays after lunch and Monday mornings. Paisans buddy got one assembled by Friday's designated driver:)
  • bawbcatbawbcat Posts: 118
    Dumb question, but where is the EGR and how do you clean it? Thanks.
  • ostazostaz Posts: 80
    I am still trying to find a good set of fog lights that will fit in the factory cut-outs of my 99 Trooper. I looked at the Hella 550, but they have the mounting stud that I couldn't figure a way to remove it.

    Your thought are greatly appreciated.

  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    Well, if it is not *when* a vehicle was manufactured then perhaps its not the quality or particular version of the part that determines whether a Trooper burns oil or not.

    Then, perhaps its the way the Trooper is broken in, or maybe its the frequency of oil change, or maybe even type of oil used. I use ordinary 10W30 and mostly Havoline or Quaker State. Never had a drop of Synthetic in my Trooper and my engine uses little oil.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    IMHO the path for oil consumption in Isuzu engines is piston blow by resulting in high crank case pressure resulting in a high flow rate of oily crank case air back to the enine air intake. This would explain why my 1995 burned more oil under heavy load and nearly no oil burning at light load. My 1984 Trooper had high crankcase pressure and used 0.5 to 1.5 qt. / 1000 miles from 30K miles to 200K miles, then I sold it still running great.
    Experiment: drive really light on engine demand and see if your oil burning rate reduces.
  • troop2shostroop2shos Posts: 235
    IMO, the best auxiliary lights I've ever installed & used were Cibie & Hella (driving & fog). A good quality reflector & lens makes all the difference & will brighten your day - regardless of the bulb output.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    Not to screw up anybody's "theory" or anything but my one-year old has been burning oil on and off since new (17 miles). We baby it all the time (never go over 2800RPMs) but that's not good either 'cause someone here has already told me that not driving it *hard* enough is the reason for oil burning :-)
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I took today off. I went to a mini cooper dealership and got to take one for a test drive. The salesperson really let me get on it through some twisty hilly roads. A lot of fun. It is a much different drving experience from a truck.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Well I'll find out how my trooper did on it's new oil. I changed over to 10-40 Castrol Synthetic from 5-30 Mobil 1.

  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    Regarding oil consumption, I have a suspicion that the reason that one uses more oil than the other is the way it was broke in - those first 2,000 miles. I bought mine when it had about 20 miles on it and it was babied - well it still is.

    There is a break-in schedule in the owners manual.
  • schweikbschweikb Posts: 111
    I have a'98 Trooper S automatic with 105K miles on it. Had the original rear brakes done (pads, rotor cutting) at 88K and the original fronts @ 95K. Here are the questions:
    1)Since the fronts were done I hear a scraping, clicking sound from the right front area when braking at low speed . When maneuvering in a parking lot I hear like "click, click, crunch, crunch" whenever I put the brakes on with the wheels turned at an angle. The noise is most common on very hot days - over the winter I don't hear it at all. Sometimes I open the passenger window in a parking lot to hear it but nothing, but then as summer comes, the noise comes too. I had the Isuzu dealer check it out twice, but they say there is nothing loose or wrong with the brakes. I am wondering if it could relate to the rotors being turned down too much and the stock clips or springs holding the pads being little loose since they were designed for a thicker (when new) rotor. When it is cold out the lube firms up and keeps the clips from moving about. When it is hot everything gets more fluid and the clips move - hence noise. Any thoughts on any part of this issue?
    2) I have a very steep hill in my area and every time I drive down this hill and start braking to stop at the bottom I get a loud and very disarming scraping noise from the rear of the vehicle. I sounds like I picked up a tree branch and it is dragging. The noise is kind of cyclical like it is related to something rotating. The first time it happened (almost 2 years ago) I got out and checked the whole underneath, then when I went home I went underneath and tapped and shook anything I could find - but nothing loose. Once I stop at the bottom of that hill and take off again the noise is forever gone until the next time I come down that one very steep hill. I can drive around for 6-7 months and hear nothing back there, then the once I have to go that route, as sure as anything I know, the noise happens again - yesterday was one of those times.
    It just occurred to me that it could be the emergency brakes. I thing they are drums, and if neglected and the shoes and/or linings disintegrate maybe there's a lot of loose lining material floating around inside of the drum unit that only starts acting up when the vehicle assumes this really severe down hill angle. Again, any thoughts, etc. would be appreciated.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    On the troopers. They are all discs. The rears have special drum-in-discs for the parking brake. It could be that they heat up more?

  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    Regarding oil consumption, I have a suspicion that the reason that one uses more oil than the other is the way it was broke in - those first 2,000 miles. I bought mine when it had about 20 miles on it and it was babied - well it still is.

    There is a break-in schedule in the owners manual.
  • schweikbschweikb Posts: 111
    Thanks for the reply.
    From my earlier post: "Had the original rear brakes done (pads, rotor cutting) at 88K.." Yeah, I know the rear service brakes are disc. You say the rear emergency brake is a drum-in-disc.
    This is what I meant (though not probably clearly expressed) in my comment: "It just occurred to me that it could be the emergency brakes. I think they are drums..."
    Any thoughts how I can access the drum part of the disc-in-drum unit?

    Thank you
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    ah ha, too much sun for me :)

    I'm not sure how you access them, you think it might be dragging?

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Well the results are in... The air-bags help out bigtime for towing. I put them in before towing my 5400lb car-trailer upstate this weekend. They worked out perfectly, no sag anymore!

    Well worth the <$100 for them and 1/2hr. install.

    In 2 weeks I get my 919 OME Coils in the rear, 1" spacers, OME shocks, and front ball-joint spacers :)

    Also looking for opinions on tires, narrowed it down to 285-75-16 Bridgestone Dueler Revos v. BFG ATKOs, any opinions, the price on both are close enough to not matter.

  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    Perhaps break-in can affect oil burn, but many here, including me, have followed the procedure to the letter and still the thing burns oil. I find it hard to believe that a sample as large, and as conscientious as this, would burn oil more than some other vehicles. The average Accord or Camry driver has no freakin clue about break-in, yet those cars run flawlessly for the vast majority of operators.

    No, I chalk this one up to a design or manufacturing defect.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I dunno if I'd consider a 3.5L engine in an Isuzu the same as a passenger car like the accord or camry. I bet those would burn out in a minute in the isuzu chassis!

    I'm not sure why the burn, so far I've got close to 1000 miles on my Castrol 10-40 synthetic w/o losing any yet. Keeping my fingers crossed.


    PS: Most of those miles are towing 5300lbs @ 65-75mph! :)
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I have the Dueler A/T's...before the revo's...good ride and fairly quiet. I have had a very hard time getting them balanced. I got those because they were $70+ cheaper than the BFG's, I have spent that difference with repeated balancing. They are good now, however it was difficult getting the ride right. Offroad? The duelers are competent with a very good road ride. I understand the BFGs are excellent offroad with a worse road ride? There is a little trade-off between the two I believe.

    I would check to see if you can get weight specifications per tire. the 75 series are LT and may be a lot heavier or less depending on brand. That is one detail I would check.
  • Time for tires for me, too.

    Costco twice a year has good prices on Michelins, and the ones I put on my wife's Sienna have been flawless, smooth, quiet, grippy (add your positive adjective here, can't repeat it too often, they're that good).

    Any reason to believe I'd be unhappy with a Michelin SUV tire?
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    We have Michelin CrossTerrains on our MDX. I like them a lot. Very good road tire and they seem good in the snow.
  • People that don't know about their engine's breakin also probably don't change their own oil. A quick lube place is not likely to notice low oil, so many of these perfect never use a drop of oil cars might be using quite a lot of oil, just that their owners have no idea that it is happening.
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    check out post 520 & 521.....interesting, I thought Honda's were perfect;)
    KarenS "CR-V Owners: Problems & Solutions" Sep 2, 2003 9:07am
  • Haven't put these on the Trooper yet - don't need them but...did put Pirelli Scorpion A/Ts on my Cherokee and was VERY happy with them. MUCH improved wet handling over the stock Goodyear's (RT-S). One report on the Scorps I read said they weren't optimal for snow, but were rated very high in all other categories...

    A thought...
  • Hi, it's me again (if anyone remembers). The ordeal goes on. our 00 Trooper S 4wd auto now dies on intersections. When shifter in in "D", but the foot is on the brake, the RPM's can fall and car dies. Does not happen on "P" or "N". Was at dealer's 2 times, once they kept it overnight, said cannot replicate, even though it died 2 times that morning on the way there! The dealer changed spark plugs and cleaned 'carbon deposits' somewhere to the tune of $360. Absolutely no effect (I wouldn't have agreed to useless service, because even I understand that it's unlikely that platinum spark plugs would go bad at 51K miles, but hubby did). Tried higher octane fuel and injector cleaner (still no effect). No indicators/lights of any kind. Dealer says no computer readouts either. Maintenance is up to date.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    It could be the intake manifold gasket. I had a very similar experience. 4 trips with them not finding anything. I even had a check engine light a couple of times and still nothing. It took until it got "really bad" for them to find it. Stalling more than once is "really bad" in my book.

    I had my service guy take it on his lunch break, because running it in the garage didn't yield the desired effects. Sure enough after driving it more than 15 minutes it shutdown on him.

    Good luck.
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