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Isuzu Trooper



  • schweikbschweikb Posts: 111
    The work was done at Sholz Isuzu in White Plains, NY. Their labor rate is $95/hour, so they charged 2.5 hours or a total of $237.50 labor plus sales tax in addition to the parts. Maybe where you are the labor rate is lower and it will not cost you as much.
    The parts they listed on my invoice:
    Quantity: 2
    Part #: 8-97237-538-0
    Description: Gasket;IN

    FYI - I checked my paperwork for the IMG work done under warranty at 59,960 miles and the same part and quantity was listed. However, the labor was shown as 1.7 hours versus the 2.5 hours shown when I paid for the same work. Interesting! Maybe some ammunition to cut the dealer's price down a little!
    Where my weekend house is upstate NY the labor rates are generally $70-$80/hour, so in the future I might wait and do things up there, although Sholz has a long history with Isuzu and it might be worth their knowledge and experience.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Where upstate? I have a place in the adirondacks!

  • schweikbschweikb Posts: 111
    Town of Roxbury, the extreme west part of the Catskills, about 9 miles from Belleayre ski center and 7 miles north of Rte. 28 at an elevation of just about 3,000 ft - great views. Unfortunately (I guess) I now have the place up for sale and if I get the right price will take it and re-consolidate to my cooperative apartment in Westchester. Lost my job after 7 years with the company (this happened in 1995 after 20+ years with that company) and being 62 I am trying to retire and live more modestly. I am tired of what's going on in corporate America in terms of constant downsizing and squeezing workers to work 60 hours a week and pay them for 35 hours. The other part (a tendency to hire younger folks fresh out of college) I can't really disagree with - I would probably be looking for young bucks and buck-ettes too if I were hiring for my company.
    Where in the Adirondacks? I used to vacation as a kid at Loon Lake near Chestertown and still love that area. When I got the weekend house in 1997 I felt the 146 miles to Roxbury was enough of a haul since I go almost every week.
    I am also in the process of consolidating vehicles once I move back down away from the snow. Looking to get rid of the Trooper and my 2002 Altima and get one vehicle that serves all my needs (probably an Element or a 2wd Highlander - they're offering great deals on the 2wd 4-cylinder Highlanders and they are Toyota-reliable. The base 2wd/fwd Highlander comes with traction control, stability control and 4 wheel disc ABS standard. I am hoping that will get me through NYC metro area winters and since I don't work anymore I can stay home on really bad days.
    Take care,
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Sorry to see you leave the mountains though. My place is in the Southern Adirondacks, probably about an hour or so north of where you are. It's in Caroga Lake, 50 miles west of Albany.

  • sdavitosdavito Posts: 71
    any new squeaks when you changed to polyurethane sway bar bushings?

    Also, what part # do I use to order from JC Whitney? There are quite a few to choose from.

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Can somebody tell me what code P1441 means?

    Auto Zone pulled the codes from my Trooper (the Powertrain Control Module?) yesterday. It had 1 code, which the guy said was 'in there twice' - P1441. I don't have the text in front of me, but the code was a 'manufacturer controlled' which I believe means Isuzu does not allow 'standard' or 'generic' scan tools to know exactly what the problem is. There was a little more detail, but not much and I don't remember the wording.

    I think this Sunday it's finally time to replace the PCV valve, clean out the EGR, and run some Neutra cleaner through the oil and gas. I figured the Check Engine light meant the intake manifold gasket (IMG) needed replacement, but the code seems to indicate something different. At 105k miles, I'm confident our Trooper needs PCV/EGR replacement/cleaning.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Found an old thread on another discussion board explaining that the P1441 code is "EVAP System Flow During Non-Purge" and that's often caused by a too-loose gas cap. The text I saw yesterday was different than that - something about auxiliary something-or-other.

    I guess I'll tighten up the gas cap and possibly disconnect battery for a while and see if that resolves the CEL.
  • schweikbschweikb Posts: 111
    I had the CEL come on a few months ago about 20 minutes after buying gas. I knew that a loose cap could cause this since it happened the first week I owned my then-new 98 Trooper. I made sure the cap was tight (it seemed it was but who knows), waited and after about 8 engine turn-offs, re-starts and normal driving (about a day and a half) the CEL light failed to appear one time when I started it - it has never come back on since. Save yourself grief and money and try normal operation for a day or two or three and see what happens - I suggest.
    This also happened about two years ago when I was starting the vehicle and released the key before it actually started and all the panel lights came on. Shortly after I re-started the engine, the CEL came on. At that time I did see the dealer and he told me the code was the same as for a loose cap since the "flooding" that occurs when you half- or almost-start the car produces the same condition and the diagnostic system can mis-interpret as a loose cap.
    For what it's worth.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181 has it in the FAQ or How-to section all the parts etc. I think mine squeeks but it doesn't bother me, if you grease em up nicely you won't get squeeks.

  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    over the weekend. At 62500 miles the fluid coming out looked like day old coffee. It was definitely due replacement. No noticable driveability difference since the new fluid was put in. Also got the front wheel bearings repacked. The shop said some Troopers come with sealed wheel bearings, thus no need for repacking. Mine didn't fall in that category. Anyone know what year models do???
  • crqfliercrqflier Posts: 5
    We put Bilstein shocks on our '95 Trooper a couple years ago - they are very stiff (almost too stiff when compared to the OE shocks). They do a great job on keeping the car stable though - far better than the OE. The trade-off is worth it to us, but might not be for others.
  • dmuzykadmuzyka Posts: 31
    My wife has the Highlander set-up you're looking for - base 4 cyl. I'm very impressed with it as far as pep and handling - it's a very tight little rocket to dart around in, with impeccable build quality. Plenty of room for storage, too. Just don't expect to find many 4 cyl. available with side airbags...we were going to have to wait 4-6 months for one from the factory...and by all means fork over the extra $$ for the power seats!! We didn't and regret it often as I can't find a decent seating position (although she can), and I am greatly spoiled by my Trooper's seats. Also, my 2WD LS seems a more substantial vehicle than the Toyota, but that just might be perceptive prejudice!!
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Your Trooper IS substantially more vehicle than the Highlander. I believe the Highlander is a unibody construction, built on the Camary platform, therefore it's not a rigid truck frame giving that STRONG feeling of a truck. They are a fine looking and riding rig for what they are though, just as you have mentioned.

    I have to agree with you on the power seats thing. I have NEVER been able to get the seating position I prefer on my 01' Trooper that does not have power seating. It just sits differently than my 99' even though it has those manual knob adjusters. I'm not sure what the difference is exactly, but it's noticeable.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    I don't believe the Highlander is built on the Camry platform - I think it's built on the Avalon platform which is wider and longer. But it is definitely a car (unibody), not a truck.

    I have no problem with Sport Utility Cars (SUCs), despite my acronym. The only reason I have a Trooper/truck is because I need to pull a fairly heavy trailer. Otherwise, it'd be a all-wheel drive car for me.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    Actually, the Avalon is based on the pre-2002 generation Camry platform which has been extended. Highlander is built on the current Camry platform with very few modifications. I find it interesting that Rav4 is also built on the same platform, just more heavily modified - I always thought it was a Corolla.

    My sister's loaded up Highlander Limited is one smooth riding rocket compared to the Trooper. I'd still pick my Isuzu because it looks cool, fits more stuff and I paid $15,000 less for it (Yes, she spent $40K OTD for her Toyota when they came out - it's got everything, extra warranty and some lifetime services too.)
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Bought a loaded highlander this year too. Close to $40k...

  • schrochemschrochem Posts: 5
    I was hoping someone might help me. I have a 1999 Trooper and have an intermittent fan problem. It is starting to get hot here in Texas so I need to resolve this problem soon. The A/C itself seems to be working fine but the fan may or may not come on. I have felt the fan and when it is working it does cycle through the speeds. If it comes on, it will stay on until I turn the truck off. The fan speed doesn’t seem up to par as I have to put the speed all the way up to get any kind of cooling going. The times it doesn’t start, it may never start up. However, I have seen it magically come on when my speed increased (entering a highway).
    The only other symptoms I can offer is the amount of water being discharged seems to be excessive and immediate. I thought that had something to do only with the A/C but if I turn the A/C off it keeps on dripping. Even if I turn the heater on it keeps on dripping and a fast rate. The only way to stop the dripping is to turn the fan off.
    Is it my fan? Is it possibly a fuse (I don’t know how to check if the two fuses in the box are still good)? Lastly, do you think my A/C is still fine and it is just a fan problem?
    Thanks for any help
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    I had heard the RAV4 was based on the Celica...

    Well, whatever Toyota is doing, their doing it pretty darn well.

    I still love my Trooper, though.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Condensation drips form the cooling coils when hot, moist air is cooled by the coil and can no longer hold the moisture. It drips into a pan and that pan has a hose leading out below the car. If that hose is clogged, it might drip more slowly, and for a longer time, than it otherwise would. A lot of garages/dealers will blow the line out with compressed air to clear the clog.

    The fan moves the air across the coils, so if the fan isn't running, there won't be much condensation. But, when if you turn the fan off, the water that's already in the pan will continue to drip until it's gone.

    As for your fan, it sounds like the fan motor could be faulty. Maybe it requires a lot of electricity to get it to spin? That would explain why the engine revs need to be up to get it to run. Could it be affected by a pool of condensate water? I don't think so, but I've never dis-assembled the unit...

    I'd get that condensation line cleared as a start.

    You realize that if the fan isn't in the on position, the AC compressor will not come on, even though you have the AC button depressed, right?

    There's a lot of hot air in a Trooper, and the AC is not as powerful as some might hope. I always start by opening my windows to get the super-heated air out before I turn the AC on.

    Also, make sure the air source lever is slid to recycle. Otherwise, you're just air conditioning outside air and forcing it into the truck.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The only toyota that does anything to move me is the Landcruiser. The rest are all really really Blah. They remind me of a Toaster Oven or Refrigerator, they are for non-car enthusiasts who wouldn't know the difference if they were driving a Hondah or Toyota or what not. Very reliable, but no soul, no heart, no character.

  • schrochemschrochem Posts: 5
    Thanks for your response. Well I don't think the line is clogged b/c it seems to flow at a pretty quick rate. It seems to be more than I have ever noticed.
    I guess if it was a fuse problem it would either work or it wouldn't. Could it be some other electrical problem? I am not sure how a fan motor starts to go out, but I want to make sure it isn't something upstream before replacing it. I noticed on the fan motor under the part number it said 12V. Do you suppose, it might be borderline to the 12V mark? If so how do I resolve that problem. I don't know much about trucks as you can tell but like to tinker nonetheless.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Agreed, Toyotas are appliances. But they are unbelievably good if you don't care about personality. Personally, my next car will probably be a 'ru.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    There are probably ways to test the draw of the fan motor, but often when a mechanism with a motor begins to die, it requires more power to start and run.

    As to what's coming out of the condensate line, it only drips when the AC is running, or has just run, right? In a hot humid environment, it can produce quite a bit of water.

    Moving humid air slowly over the coils will extract the most water. So, maybe your fan really is running poorly/slowly.

    I'm hoping others will that have more experience will chime in. Fan motors have been discussed in the past...
  • cwmcwm Posts: 42
    P1441 EVAP System Flow During Non-Purge
    Isuzu OBD2 codes:

    Here is something titled "EVAP System Operation":

    and Isuzu Technical Service Bulletins:

    SB00-02-S002 MAR 00 DTC P1441 EVAP/Fuel Sender Calibration Revised

    SB98-03-L006 JUL 98 DTC P1441 (EVAP) Diagnostic Procedures Revised

  • ilitilit Posts: 71
    A new "fuel sending unit" replaced on mine cured the problem I had with my 99 T.
  • schrochemschrochem Posts: 5
    yes, after the a/c has run, but if I turn off the a/c it keeps on dripping (with fan still on). If I turn the fan off it stops immediately.
    I did search the archives and found a similar post at #9201. However, noone seemed to answer that post, but I do think mine does the same thing with switching the intake back and forth. Not sure if it is related but I do notice quite a buildup on my battery terminals in a short amount of time. I have often wondered if something is killing my battery (I am on my third one in 4yrs 70000miles. Been keeping them as clean as I can as often as needed.
    Thanks again for the help
  • troop2shostroop2shos Posts: 235
    My '04 fridge white 4 cyl AWD appliance has a personality with a very high level of performance: Subaru Forester XT. Combined with my '00 Troop, my driving, storage, towing, etc. needs are pretty much covered.
  • sdavitosdavito Posts: 71
    My 2000 Trooper had the same exact symptoms, and it was the fan motor.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Forester is FAR from an appliance. It's got the underpinnings of the WRX and handles and has way more character than a Toyota or Hondah.

    Being an appliance has nothing to do with 4cylinders, but more the chassis/feel/personality of the vehicle...

    I have 3 subies :)

    '92 SVX
    '94 Legacy Turbo 5MT Sedan
    '96 Impreza L Race Prepared 4EAT

  • troop2shostroop2shos Posts: 235
    The Forester XT is perceived as an appliance to those who are totally unaware of its performance utility & stealth advantage... :)
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