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Isuzu Trooper



  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I was looking into my wheel well this weekend and noticed some rust on the frame...mostly black original paint, but some surface rust starting to form.

    What do people think about this? Should I just expect it to rust for the next 10 years and not worry about it or should I be agressively sanding and painting?
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I wasn't attempting to be 'snotty' in my reply. Tidester had already posted the answer, I was merely saying if you wanted to see more on the subject you could do the search. I guess Tidesters reply had disappeared or something.

    Rust on the frame or on the body panel?? If its on the frame I wouldn't worry about it. That metal will last longer that we will with a little rust on it. Body panels won't last long if they are rusting. I wouldn't sand and pain body panels, I'd treat them with a rust inhibiting agent and paint them.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    on original 99' Trooper brakepads. I changed my front pads this weekend at about 67K miles and they still have about 1/4 thickness left. I'm not one to ride the brakes and I do a lot of in town driving, so I was surprised about the longevity of these pads. I got OEM pads from St. Charles to replace them, since they had performed so well.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    did you guys go from standard front hubs to manual locking hubs on newer Troopers? If you put the manual locking kit in, what affect did it have on your fuel mileage?
    I would invest in the kit if I knew it were going to make a noticable difference in fuel mileage.
  • dnestrdnestr Posts: 188
    there's no need to paint the frame if you ain't an aesthete. And I believe it won't lose its safety margin or bending strength because of rust before the beginning of next century even if it will have been in the open air for all this time.
  • Has anyone replaced or had their starter replaced and know how to remove it? I got caught in hurricane Alex, drove through a bunch of salt water, and now my starter is acting up. I took the truck to a starter place and they could get the starter unbolted, but could not get starter out without taking the exhaust apart, supposedly. Any info on how to remove a starter from a stock 99 Trooper?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I never put on manual hubs, just thought it might help for sbcooke since he suspects a TOD problem robbing his MPG. Manual hubs would allow him to prove if the front end is engaged and lowering his MPG or not.
    Rust on the frame: I sold my 1984 Trooper in 1995 because the rear of the body was no longer attached to the rusty frame. I found out when crossing a ditch on the way to fishing. The drivers's side rear tire rubbed real bad on the wheel well, but the spring was not compressed much and the bumper not near contact. I noteced that the body and frame were far apart on the passenger side, allowing the axle to tilt abnormally and the tire to rub. The frame on the 1984 Trooper started out as a box with the fourth inside side welded on thinner metal. But by this time there was very little left of that fourth side of the frame.
  • I think it's bout time for a brake job. I have a '02 trooper S with 38,600 miles. The rear brakes were screeching... it was easy to replace the pads and disks. Now comes the challenge, the front brakes are pulsing. Time for new rotors and pads. I got a diagram of all the parts involved in the front axle. This seems a bit more complex than the rear brakes, or a non 4 wheel drive vehicle. Has anyone done a front brake job for a '02 trooper? Looking forward to your suggestions.

  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I had the neighbors kid in the car and the safety lock wasn't set...of course within 2 minutes he had the door open, fortunately we hadn't gone very far. I got out to flip the switch and the 3 year old pulled the handle while I did (not to mention had unbuckled his seat belt.

    Now the door closes, but the inside door handle doesn't close all the way, and I cannot undo the child safety lock. When I try to push it up it hits something inside...has anyone fixed this before? I don't want to have to pull the door panel if I don't need to.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    2001 Trooper Battery Box is 12"L x 6 5/8"W x 8"H (8" tall at the holding bracket, the top posts stick up above the 8"). The battery size 27 is probably for starting a diesel since it is a big battery.
    My Trooper was cranking very slowly, the original battery was probably a 36 month type and it has lasted 48 months already, so I did not wait until it would not start, I changed out the battery.
    BCI Battery Size Chart
    I went to BatteriesPlus and asked for an AGM (AGMs cannot leak because the acid is absorbed in a glass mat, they also have very low internal resistance so the difference between an AGM starting and AGM deep cycle is less than the difference for bucket-of-acid batteries) battery to fill the volume described above. I was sold a 100AH deep cycle battery that has 1000 CCA (typical car starting battery is 44AH and 650 CCA), and can source 300Amps for 5 minutes.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    when I ordered the front brake pads from them, the kit included all new spring clips, shims, baking plates and lubricant.

    The front pad changeout on the 02' should not be different that the 99'. Its quite easy unless you are going to replace the rotors. If they are 'pulsing' it might be a warped rotor.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Posts: 118
    I did repace the standard hubs on my 98 trooper with manual ones. I didn't keep close track of the MPG change, but I think it's pretty small, maybe 0.5-1 MPG improvement. In addition to some small MPG improvement, manual hubs should provide some small improvement in acceleration and also reduce wear and tear on the front driveline. With the standard hubs (i.e. permamently locked), the front driveshaft and axles are always spinning, regardless of whether 4x4 is engaged. With manual hubs unlocked and 4x4 disengaged, the front driveshart and axles do not spin.
  • kevinmkevinm Posts: 9
    Hi all,

    I've read all the past posts on changing the serpentine belt, even downloaded the diagram someone was kind enough to link to. Based on the diagram I started loosening one of the pulley bolts (see pic) almost until it fell off (not good). Did some more thinking, then asked a mechanically inclined friend to take a look. He showed me where he thought the tensioning arm should be loosened, but it appears you need socket that inserts into the opening rather than a typical socket that goes around a nut. Is that true? there is a nut that is visible but it only protrudes about 1/16" to an 1/8".

    Take a look :

  • serranotserranot Posts: 113
    You should not have to loosen any bolts. The tensioner is spring loaded. You can relieve the tension by placing the socket on bolt #2 and then pushing your ratchet clockwise. The tensioner should rotate enough to get the belt off. You may have to reposition your ratchet to get the best angle on the tensioner.

  • Exhaust, wire block, and a crossmember had to be moved to get the starter out. This would be at least 2 hours labor, for an honest mechanic, to remove and replace. New starters are expensive also. FYI
  • kevinmkevinm Posts: 9
    Thanks Tom,

    That makes more sense. I'll give it a try tonight. I knew it couldn't be hard when folks are saying they could swap it out in minutes.

  • cwp2cwp2 Posts: 19
    Tom's instructions are on the money. I changed this belt recently and it was one of the easiest jobs I've done. One thing, make sure you have hlep to thread on the belt while you hold the tensioner. It can be a bit tricky trying to both jobs at one time.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yup after doing it on my truck i'm actually keeping one in the back just in case cause i'd hate to break a belt out on the trail and not have one to swap in.

  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    In all seriousness, I have read that some people keep a set of pantyhose around because in a pinch it can be used to replace a belt and you can easily adjust the length.
  • Nah. I'll bet they just want an excuse for their off-hours, cross dressing habits...
  • beer4704beer4704 Posts: 46
    125K today on a business trip to VA. Other than the tranny replaced at 111K (under warranty) and 2 tail light bulbs there have been no other repairs. There has been routine maintainence and MB1 oil changes every 10K. Brakes were done at 83K. Coolant at 70 something and 123K. Fuel filter at 70 something and 124K. Timing belt, water pump and tensioner at 103K. Serpentine belt done at 90 something. I hope I am not jinxing myself by saying so but this Trooper has been the best value I have ever had to date. Hopefully alternator, fuel pump and starter will hang in there awhile. I am hoping to put 200K on this 2K Trooper. This does have me thinking about a replacement vehicle but seeing how the note was recently retired, it will be nice not to have a payment for a while! Cheers to all!
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    ...a $4-5K tranny replacement job would quickly end that Trooper's life. I'm glad you had the warranty.
  • beer4704beer4704 Posts: 46
    You are right about that! I would have a hard time justifing a repair of such large expense. It does burn a little oil between changes which is aggravating when you are using MB1 but it still runs rather well and has been very dependable. If something large goes kaput, maybe I could sell it for parts. Trade in isn't much on these things, especially, with high mileage. For now I'll keep "knockin' on wood". One thing I did notice this morning; my rear driver side window is going up slower than the other windows. Is there anything that can be done to lubricate, WD40 spray or something? Any ideas would be most appreciated. Cheers to all!
  • Is about a year of car payments on a moderately expensive new car.

    This is a GM tranny, and I'd be willing to bet you could get the job done cheaper than that, but maybe I'm wrong.

    Still, I understand the sentiment.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    Hey guys, anybody remember the "cassette rewinding" noise? A guy on another board is describing a similar noise, and I recall that we talked about it here a while back. Was a cause pinned down for that noise?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    There's a few posts about it dating back to 1999, like this thread:

    oldpickup "Isuzu Trooper - Part II" Oct 5, 1999 3:30pm

    Try an Advanced Search on the left sidebar for a few more.

    Steve, Host
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Hey guys was doing some general maintenance on the trooper today curious if there are any grease points. Looked like there was one on the driveshaft. I did 3 quarts of 75w90 Redline Synthetic for the rear diffy, much smoother now! I need to do the front diffy next.

  • serranotserranot Posts: 113
    I think there are three on the driveline--one on the slip joint and one on each universal joint. I just did mine, but I can't remember if both universals had them or just the rear.

    I am unaware of any other grease fittings.

  • beer4704beer4704 Posts: 46
    I would love to grease the driveline instead of going to the dealer. I have a grease gun but not the knowledge of where the fittings are exactly located. Paisan, do you have a "how to" on your website? Cheers to all!
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Has anyone ever done this? I tried unsuccessfully to remove the smaller rear door on our 98 Troop yesterday. I backed into something (our minivan) and dented in the rear corner of our Troop, just above the taillight. It's a good-size dent but not huge - the crease is probably 4-6" across and the dent goes in probably 1-2". With the rear door removed, I could get right at the dent from the back side.

    I removed 4 bolts securing the door, plus 2 more that are buried inside the cavity where the hinges reside. But the hinges and hardware didn't slide right out of their openings. I spent a good 30 minutes trying to jockey and jostle it out, but couldn't get it. It was hard to see in the openings to tell why it wasn't working.

    I was able to feel the back side of the dent by removing the taillight and reaching up there with my hand, but there isn't enough clearance for a hammer or other tool that could bang out the dent.

    I've never done any rudimentary 'body work' before and I am not looking for a perfect result, just looking for a way to reduce the size of the dent and make it less noticeable. Some of the paint scraped off, and I've already done an ugly touch-up paint job on the scrape. So it looks better than before, but I would like to reduce the dent without spending an arm and a leg.

    The truck has almost 110,000 miles and I don't feel like spending several hundred bucks on cosmetic body work for a vehicle that's worth $5-6k at the most.
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