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Isuzu Trooper



  • After a closer look at my 255/16 Revo ATs I think I might change then before snow after all. They started out with 13/32nds tread depth and after 40K+ miles are down to half that. From a few feet away the tires still look like there is a lot of tread left. Without snow, I think these tires might go another 15K miles.
    New tire time will also include a set of OME HD Shocks to prevent uneven tire wear that worn shocks can cause. If I can handle the cost, I will also get the OME rear coil springs and sway away torsion bars.
    I am still torn between Revo-AT and G051-MS tires. See the comparisons here:
    MS: - - e=HAS
    AT: e=ORAT
    My tire needs are quiet performance handling and smooth ride along with snow traction because where I live there are no snow plows and it is hilly and some dirt roads. I go off road very infrequently because my wife and kids do not want to go along and I am a family first guy.
    My favorite tire store and free rotation / balance place is a which carries the Yokohama Geolander HTS G051, the Bridgestone Revos would be a special order. A set of 4 Geolanders would be about $100 less than the Revos.
    So, what do you recommend another round of Revo-AT or try the Geolander G051-MS this time? Thank You
  • I'm with you. Although I have no experience with either the Yoke's or the Revo's, it's the G051's for me. I'm gonna use my Duellers a little longer, though. They have another 6K or so left on them.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    No, the tires had nothing to do with the wreck...guy ran a red light and T-boned me.

    I found the Nittos to be smoother running than my previous Scorpions, with great traction and were supposed to have a 500 wear rating (never got to find out how long they lasted). The LT load rating was desirable for me, as I go off road occasionally - stronger sidewalls compared to P rating.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I like the Dueler A/T 693s. The Revo's weren't available at the time I purchased...I probably would have ended up with those, but I think the 693s are excellent, great traction, good offroad, quiet, etc.

    Something to consider since they may be cheaper and seem to also be a very good tire.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I hope everybody's OK. Weren't you driving a 99' Trooper? Are you planning on getting another Trooper to replace it?

    Has anyone heard whether the Axiom has the same oil-burning issues that Trooper has. They share the same engine design except for the D.I. one don't they?

    I see ISUZU has a sales drive going now....$6500 rebates yada yada yada.
  • If you have Firestone dealers in the area, you have easy access to the Revo's & can negotiate total price. If the Revo's met or surpassed your expectations, why switch? The Revo's have more sipes / bitting edges.
    Consumer tire reviews have to taken with a grain of salt since there are far too many variables that come into play (experience / skill of the reviewer, initial impressions vs. long-term usage, type vehicle, service duty, personal predjudices, etc.). There are only a few magazines I somewhat trust on their reviews based on personal experience (CR is not one of them).
    The GO51's & / or Nitto's may meet your needs just fine but I would talk to someone you trust who runs them for their input - pro & con.
    Of all the tires I've used, only 2 models would I ever consider buying again or have bought more than once: BFG KDWS's on my Gen III SHO (2 sets) & Bstone A/T Revo's for my Troop - intended service dependent. The OEM Geo 900's on my '04 Forester XT will not be put back on but I will consider other Yoko models.
  • Revos: 55
    Geolandar HTS G051, G052, G053
    G051 is regular sized P rated tires
    G052 is skinny rubber for tall rims
    Go53 is the load ranges D E etc..
    Interestingly: G051 are all slightly lighter and at the same time slightly larger than the same sized Revos.
    Also in the 255/60R16 size the G051 are rated 112s compared the the Revo 109s. Original Equipment Trooper tires call for 106s.
    I am going to stop thinking about which tires to buy and start thinking about saving up for them and the OME shocks to protect my tire investment.
  • OK, so there I am last driving home in my 2001 LS 2WD, and crawling up a light I hear a 'clunk', and the check trans light comes on. It feels like the trans is slipping all the way home, so this morning I crawl it in to the dealer and it needs an EXTERNAL control module ($500 installed with flush and refill - not covered by the 10/120...), and now it needs a transmission ($3800, but covered by the warranty). My Trooper has 68K on it, and I've loved the vehicle up to now, but I'm gathering opinions about whether to count my blessings after the new trans is put in, or punt and trade it in on a trusty Toyota or Honda.....
  • dnestrdnestr Posts: 188
    Sorry to know the news. But I suggest you keep on owning your Trooper till the 10/120 ends, because the prices keep dropping since there are no more new trucks for sale. In addition how fast can you trade your 2WD? All this looks like you have to pay in extra and alot bucks for Toyota or Honda. Maybe 2WD trucks are a kind of new fashion or spirit of the US though. Anyway it's rare to hear about 4L30 failing. So I hope new one would be better and robust for years. Good luck.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yeah and not to mention, a "trusty" honda like the Odessey or Pilot have KNOWN bad transmissions, and we all know about the Toyota Oil Sludge issues from last year....

  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    I guess you missed it when my wreck happened last December...I'm fine but the 99 Trooper was totaled.

    I bought a 2-door Tahoe for now. It's fun having a V8! But I am keeping an eye out for a 93 Trooper RS for a wheeling vehicle. If you don't know, an RS is a 2-door and is 17 inches shorter than the 4-door. Makes a nimble little wheeling vehicle! But 93 was the only year they imported RS 2nd gen Troopers to the US, so they are somewhat rare.
  • It is the 4th time I sent the car to the dealer because of CEL was on (well, it never went off at all). After they spent 1 hour (or cost me $90), they said they got three codes but none of them are current. The codes are:

    1. Fuel link, O2 sensor code
    2. Trans Run switch code
    3. Brake Switch code.

    The service guy told me. The check engine light problem may come from a bad fuel link, so he recommend me to got a new fuel pump ($600) and a new fuel filter ($50). But he still not sure it is the cause of the problem (as usual.)

    Anyway, it is annoying. And my wife confirm again that she want a Toyota next time.

    A question that my fellow Trooper fan can answer:

    How much does it cost (not at dealer) to install a new fuel pump and/or a new fuel filter?

    Is it possible to do it by myself?

    Thanks a lot!

  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Peter, the fuel filter change is a breeze for almost anyone. A couple squeeze hose connectors and your outa there. The filter is about $20 at your local parts store. Don't get it at Auto Zone, they are stocking the wrong part no. and it won't match up. I've changed mine recently and it only took a few minutes. Make the system is de-pressurized before you disconnect the hoses, or you'll get some gas on you.

    The fuel pump changeout is quite an ordeal. You have to drop the gas tank, because the pump is inside the tank. I would leave this to the mechanic, an independent one you have confidence in. It will cost a couple hundred $$ even at that. BUT, if the engine will run, the pump is getting fuel to the engine and I doubt the fuel pump is a problem. The filter is likely the culprit, check the old one after you remove it. Test it by blowing air through it to see how stopped up it is. This could cause a back pressure on the pump that makes it work 'hard' and will shorten it's life if left that way. Otherwise, once the filter is replaced, and the truck still runs, the pump shouldn't be a problem.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377

        Just installed some cleaned-up Aisin manual hubs on my '99 Trooper. I'm hoping for a little bit better gas mileage. For those of you considering this conversion, it is really simple. I took the hubs apart, cleaned them up good and regreased them, and then bolted them on. Now I've got to find a machine shop that will machine those chrome hub covers so that I can bolt them back on and still engage the hubs when I need to.

        Overall, a pleasant process and one you should consider if you want the option of disengaging the front driveline.


    Tom, how did the manual hubs affect your MPG's?? I'm seriously considering this if there is a gain to be had. Where did you get the manual hubs that you used? How expensive were they?
  • I purchased the hubs on eBay and paid about $70 for both. Unfortunately, one of them was damaged, and I have not yet replaced it, so I'm running with one hub (engaged) and the other side still has the drive flange. As soon as I procure a replacement, I'll let you know.

  • Thanks for the tips bsmart. Yesterday I got the filter from Auto Zone and a few clamps. The new filter looks similar to the old one. Does it really no match? I followed the instruction other people posted on this forum. After I disconnect one end (the outflow one), the gas kept coming out. After half a gallon or so, the gas was still flowing, I was afraid that the whole tank might pour out on to my driveway if I disconnect the inflow end of the filter (there was still 20 gallons inside), and it was almost dark outside, so I reconnected the old filter and put it back. I think I will try to change the filter at the weekend, when the gas tank was almost empty.

    Thank you guys for the helps!

    Sad part of the story:
    My wife insists to trade in the 99 Trooper to get a new car. She would like to keep our 92 Toyota Tercel, which gives us less problems.

  • Can anyone recommend fog lights that are affordable and are good?
  • In the past on other vehicles, I've used Cibie, Hella, Marchal & Lucas in both driving & fog. My preference is Cibie for their lead crystal lenses & reflector design maximizing the light output where it needs to be while eliminating scattered / stray light. Hella also makes a very good lamp.
  • I try to change the coolent for my 98 trooper
    but just cannot find the drain cock by looking
    from under the truck.
    do I need to remove that metal plate just below
    the radiator to find it?

    thx for any advice
  • etrooper - you need to remove the skid plates. You will find the drain cock on the right side of the radiator. It's just a plastic plug with two ears that you grasp.

  • Peter - you need to loosen the gas cap first to relieve the pressure in the tank. You should not get much fuel then. I've done the filter a couple of times so I know this works.

  • thank you for your reply, Tom!
  • What size fit in the spaces provided on the bumber? This is the 2000 LS model. Seems like a standard size that I've seen on other Troops.
  • Hi all,

    I did some research on this site and have found that my Trooper does not have the V05 option (heavy duty radiator) and am not sure that there is a stock tranny cooler installed. I tow a 19ft boat that weighs up to 4K pounds loaded, and the Troop does fine except for steep up grades. I was thinking of a adding a Tru-cool tranny cooler and wanted your opinions. Is this recommended and any experience with the install?Also, how do I find out if there is a stock cooler already installed? Not sure I trust my local dealer as they are mostly a GM dealer. Thanks for your time.
  • Measure the inside of the cut-outs where the lamps will be mounted & allow for mounting depth plus add about a 1/4" minimum for air space around the lamp. Check various web sites for the outside dimensions of the lamps you're interested in - some trimming may be required for clearance. The OEM fogs are approx. 6"W x 2-3/4"H - the height will be a problem in finding aftermarket might check PIAA or look at alternative mounting locations if aftermarket - your other option is the OEM lamp.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I love my Hella 3000s :)

    Towing/transcooler- All Troopers are setup for towing from the factory, add hitch and you are good. Although it has a built in transcooler I would add one on as extra protection. I should/may do it on mine.

    Draining, I usually just pull a hose. I haven't done it on my trooper yet but I should before winter do the hoses and coolant drain/fill.

  • Hi all,

    I am considering purchasing a 22 ft travel trailer and was wondering if any of you have had a towing experience with the trooper and a trailer of that length and weight. The trailer is 4200 lbs. I have a class III WD hitch on my 98 Trooper.


  • A consideration when hauling choosing a trailer for yard debris: At some dumps they have rules. In my case there is a rule that trailers with one axle can be considered home owners getting rid of yard debris, but if you have two axles, then you must not be a homeowner and you must follow rules like a contactor or garbage company would.
    I was looking at a large trailer for a few big loads, now I might go with a smaller trailer at max single axle rating for less expensive use of the stump dump.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    PE1227 What kind of distances etc are you planning on travelling? I regularly tow 5k-5500k car trailer 500-900 miles at a time, it's not too bad but I am considering a GMC Yukon XL as a replacement due to the long-towing I do.

  • Boxtrooper, I have a CarMate SST 5x10, 1 axle, 2990# gross. When thoroughly loaded with junk firewood, stumps, limbs, homeowner remodelling refuse, etc., it's as much as I'm comfortable pulling. And it takes forever to unload at the dump.

    Even when carrying heavy remodelling refuse (roofing, concrete block, whatever), I've never come close to 2990# on the scale.

    I think you can do just fine with a single axle trailer.
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