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Isuzu Trooper



  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I would be a bit concerned if I'm getting a brake lite and I have 84K miles on the original pads. I'd say the pads need to be changed because the fluid level is likely low causing the lite to come on.


    As far as the CEL light goes, I doubt it is a fuel pump issue. If the engine runs fine but stalls occasionally its getting plenty fuel. The pump is designed to pump much more than needed, which is always recirculated back to the fuel tank. Since you recently replaced the fuel filter, and it appeared to be fine, I doubt the pump has any blockage causing the problem.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Just made a 2700 mile trip to Colorado thru all kinds of weather and road conditions in my 99' trooper. Never had a hitch of any kind along the way. I had just moved up to the P265X70 R16 tires before leaving. Didn't seem to suffer any mileage loss or off the mark speed loss. On dry level roads and clear weather conditions at 65-70 mph got about 20 mpg. I'm real pleased with how the Trooper handles with these tires. Seems to ride a shade better than before for some reason.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Stalling multiple times? Sounds like the intake manifold gasket problem. Mine was similar to a loss of vacuum and then gasp, stall.


    You said yours was changed? I think it is very possible to go again. I believe there are multiple img's...they mentioned upper and lower when mine was changed? Perhaps you only had one replaced originally?


    My engine kept getting codes, but nothing that said "bad img". It took 5 trips to get it fixed.
  • Think EGR. I have had many of the same problems on my '99. Intermittent CEL's for the last 10k miles, accompanied by varying amounts of engine dysfunction, including hard starting, rough idle, and stalling or near stalling. Finally, at about 100k miles, I took it in to check it out. The check engine light has been on for a month.


    Answer: the EGR valve is sticking open. Too much carbon buildup I guess. Freed it up a bit and it runs great. I haven't replaced it yet.


    Some on this board have attempted to clean it. I'm curious if this produced any long term good results. My mechanic said it's a temporary fix. It really needs a new EGR - pretty expensive item I found out. Easy to replace, but part is expensive.


    I'm going to refer back to previous posts regarding cleaning. Any follow up on how well cleaning really works would be appreciated.


  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Interesting - EGR complaints are up a bit in one of the Odyssey discussions, for vans with similar mileage. Must be a sign of advanced age or something.


    Steve, Host
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    $119 from Autozone.


  • Just noticed today that it blinked for a few mins and than went to solid tires in 2 wd. The same thing happened last time. Does anyone know where to locate these wires ??
  • This morning, my Trooper stalled three times. When I shifted from P to R, it stalled twice and when I got off an expressway, it stalled again. (All of them happened when my foot was off gas pedal). I hope I can have some time to bring it to mechanic this weekend. :(
  • Thanks a lot for your suggestions.


    One more question before the new year ;)

    Where does the EGR valve locate and is it difficult to replace it by myself?


    Happy new year!


  • Is this a price on the EGR valve or is this referring to something else? I was quoted a much, much higher price. I don't have Autozones where I live, but I guess I'll shop around. I'm encouraged, anyway.


    Peterisme - the EGR is located atop the engine at the passenger side rear of the engine. It's a cylindrical deal about 2" in diameter with a wire connector on the top. This has to be one of the simplest maintainance tasks to do. Although I haven't taken it off myself, I know my mechanic did it in less than a minute, and not much longer to replace it. It's held on by two bolts. I believe it's simply unbolt, detach the electrical connectors, and replace. Ta, da. I guess there is a concern that you be careful not to damage the EGR gasket when you remove it.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    It's very simple to clean using some carburator cleaner and a wire brush. It can be just as reliable as a new one after this treatement. The dealer will quote a price of a couple hundred dollars for a new one, and about $100 to change it for you. Hey, they gotta make money some way. But yeah, its very easy to replace or pull and clean. Just be careful not to damage the graphoil gasket, it's pretty delicate.


    When mine was acting up, I got the CEL and a rough idle. Never bad enough to completely stall, but enough to notice it wasn't normal.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Hey, can some of you shadetree types help out a Rodeo owner?


    wjf, "Isuzu Rodeo" #1476, 29 Dec 2004 12:41 pm




    Steve, Host
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    You can actually order it from autozone online. Check out it says it's the whole valve for $119, and tells you to clean out the chamber of carbon. I am going to get one for sure as I've been throwing an EGR CEL for a while.


  • serranotserranot Posts: 113
    The new EGR from the factory comes with a new gasket. Or you can get a new one from the dealer for about $10. Given that it is virtually impossible to get an old EGR off without pulling up some of the gasket, I'd spend the $10 on a new one. Otherwise, you are just setting yourself up for a new air leak.


  • Just picked up a very nice 2000 S 4WD with 74K miles for $8700.It's a daily driver now,but will be retired to "weekend adventure vehicle" in a year or two.I hope to literally keep it forever.


    Just one problem.The beast won't run on regular,and I even get a little valve clatter running 102 octane? Could it maybe need a valve adjustment?


    thanks in advance,


  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Has to do with your oil, not the octane fuel IIRC. If it has to do with the octane then your knock sensor is probably broken and not retarding the timing properly.


  • makayemakaye Posts: 81
    Or pinging/knocking?


    If pinging, also check the EGR thread above.
  • roop1roop1 Posts: 1
    1988 Trooper, AUTO trans. , 165,000 miles....just had an idle quality problem corrected with new idle air controller, new EGR valve and a few other pieces replaced. The temp gauge was not registering reliably(showing full cold most of the time)at the time and now shows full hot all the time. I've replaced the sending unit with 2 new switches with no change. The major problem we have is the 4 sp OD trans will not shift into OD range even when warmed up. Is this related to the sending unit signal problem? Garage thinks its an internal valve body problem but I don't buy that. Anyone with any experience with this and suggestions would be appreciated.
  • Sounds like cleaning the EGR is the place to start since there is no cost involved.Where is the knock sensor,and how much do they cost?Is there a way to test this componant?


    Thanks guys,


  • Yep, I've put it off for months, but it's now time that I did it!


    Based on a lot of horror stories (CEL lights) related to spark plugs that are not Trooper - friendly, the consensus seems to be that only OEM Denso's should be used. The user manual for my 2001 LS lists "two" Denso's -


    K16PR-P11, and

    PK16PR11 (cheaper, and easier to find)


    Does anybody know why I shoudn't use the "PK" version of the plug?
  • FWIW, I went with the NGK's without any problems.
  • gdoylegdoyle Posts: 1
    Recently bought a 2000 Trooper and have been considering new tires. Wanted to go to a 245/75/16 due to value for $ but is there any problem with the hard spare cover fitting over the taller size, because I want to change the spare also?
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    I changed mine out last year between 65,000 & 70,000 miles. I used the Champion RC10PYP4 that turned out to be the same as the original. Worked pretty good.


    One note, I figured out a way to deal with the rubber boots without tearing them. Use compressed air or a pump with one of the little adapters for blowing up air matress, etc. The boot pops right off.. I figured that out after the 6th one refused to release it's grip on the plug and I thought I might tear it... Only sold as a set with the coil from what I hear and over $100 for the set.
  • Thanks for the air pump tip. I was gonna try that, 'cause I remember reading a previous post about it.


    I'm thinking I may try those Champions myself. That plug is also recommended in my owner's manual, and I can get 'em for $4.00 each locally.


    BTW, I just ordered a serpentine belt from St. Charles for $17 - dealer wanted $79 for the part and labor. Replacing it seems too simple to pay them that kind of money. At 47K, the belt has a lot of cracks on the ribbed side, so thought I'd be better safe than sorry.
  • For those of you considering replacing the serpentine belt on late model Troopers, here's a belt routing diagram -




    Yeah, it is for an Amigo, but it's identical to my '01 Trooper LS.


    Since it is apparently such a piece of cake, I'm gonna be doing it this weekend. The diagram is important to me, just in case I get confused about the correct routing after I take off the old belt.
  • The hard cover and the soft cover before that, only fit the original size spare tire, 245/70R16, and no other.


    I replaced the spare also with a larger tire, and the hard cover lives in the attic.


    I am considering the LT245/75R16LRC tire for more tread depth and a stiffer side wall, I like a firm ride. The Revo in this size has tread as wide as a 255/70 and is as tall as a 265/70. The LTX M/S does not have a LT245/75R16LRC, and the LRE is very heavy which means poor MPG and acceleration, but very long tire life.
  • hi,


    i'm curious about what the "idle air controller" is - my 98 trooper has been having a problem where when cold and stopped in traffic the motor is revving fairly high - if i pop it into neutral it revs at 2000 revs - if its in drive its pushing fairly hard on the transmission and revving to 1200 or so... this morning i took off a wire to a sensor which is right on the air intake at the very front of the motor - it solved the problem instantly!! what did i disconnect? was it the "idle air controller" you talk about? the engine check light came on a few minutes later but the car is still running perfectly.


    any ideas?


    thanks for your help.


  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Yep, this is a temperature related problem. It has to get up to operating temperature for that O.D. to kick in. Something is wrong with the sensor or the ECM. Its odd that the temperature gauge is pegged out all the time. That could be read as a bad sensor to the ECM which might prevent the O.D. from coming on.
  • makayemakaye Posts: 81
    Talk about jumping from the frying pan into the fire - or at least into another frying pan!


    Doug Klee Joins Mitsubishi Motors North America as Director, Regional Retail Operations


    CYPRESS, Calif., Jan. 6 /PRNewswire/ -- Doug Klee today joins Mitsubishi

    Motors North America (MMNA) as director, regional retail operations, responsible for the Northeast region. Mr. Klee comes to MMNA from American Isuzu Motors, where he served as executive manager, national sales operations.

    He brings with him more than 25 years of automotive industry experience and a full set of managerial, marketing, sales and service skills. He has had extensive experience in personnel management, strengthening dealer focus and developing improvement programs to reach corporate goals.

    "We are extremely pleased to have Mr. Klee on board with us," said Michael Tocci, senior vice president of sales, distribution and fleet. "His extensive national and regional experience in the industry will help promote our stellar product lineup."
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Do you have a link to that article?


    tidester, host
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