Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Isuzu Trooper



  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Drop me a direct e-mail wanted to get in touch but couldn't find your e-mail addy. The Leg is doing well. Just put my HID driving lights on from the SVX, and wound up replacing the trans a few months ago. When I did that I put in STi short shifter, STi trans mount. I'm in the process of getting JIC coilovers ready for it as well and STi motor mounts and Poly steering rack bushings. Last week a ScoobySport UK axle-back went on it. After that a TD04 and v4 STi TMIC are going on it as well as an SAFCII. :)

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Supposedly fixed in the '05 models are the brakes. But even if it isn't I'm not that worried, there are lots of brake options out there on the market to upgrade brakes on vehicles. If the problem arises I'll first get soe cryogenically frozen rotors and upgraded pads. Worst case I'll convince on of our race sponsors who is a brake manufacturer to whip me up a big brake kit for it.

  • hnbiihnbii Posts: 1
    Did anyone ever give you an answer or drawing? We are have the same problem with a 1996. Any info would be appreciated.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Most likely you'll need to replace the unit in the door. Should be available at junk yards.

  • silverghostsilverghost Posts: 154
    I've occasionally seen them on Ebay, also.

  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    I thought you were jumping into an FBI-black GMC Denali queer eye for the straight guy-style and suddenly this change of heart to go with the Armada? What gives?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Denali is a ripoff. Was debating between the Armada and the Suburban, but realized that the Armada has way better safety controls, independent rear for better ride, won't fall apart at 30k miles, more towing capacity than even a 2500 series suburban (unless you get the 8.1 L engine) and a silky smooth 5-speed trans v. old school 4-speed in the GMs.

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    Does the Armada have "grade logic" and a "trailering mode" for easier handling of hills. I realy dislike that automatic transmission feeling of falling that happend whe letting off the gas and still accelerating because the tranny is in coast mode.
    Please keep us posted to let us know if you Armada holds up as well as a Trooper.
    I think Armada has been around long enough that initial bugs ought to be worked out, and not so long that the cost cutting engineers ruin it.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It does have a tow-mode on the trans, and i'm not sure if it has grade logic or not. I will report for sure on it. It does have a trans temp gauge which is sweet!

  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    about 1 MPG improvement in City mileage. I'm getting about 15 now, where I was getting about 13.5 - 14.0 before. We have several stations here that offer Hi Test Gas for Regular price on Tuesdays. It has made an improvement in performance and mileage.
  • Hi, please tell me if you found out anything else about your TOD brake lights blinking. I have a 99 Trooper with 65,000 miles and just had a friend change the rear brakes. He also did the brake bleeding for me. Since then, the TOD green lights blink for the rear brakes. Now the check brake lights come on intermittently. We can't think of what else to do. I ordered a CD repair manual for a 99 Trooper and it was no help. I have to find out what is causing this and he will fix it for me. Do you know anything else about the valve in the front differential and the gear oil? Does anyone else know what might be causing this problem? Does anyone have a suggestion about what else I might do? I really appreciate any help. Thanks,
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    If it has been a long time, also consider running a fuel injector chemical through the gas tank. I do once a year or if the engine begins to hessitate when I let the clutch out quickly.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    TOD and brakes. Most likely it's un-related, or your friend whacked one of the wheel sensors. The brake light usually is due to low fluid.

  • Thanks Mike, can you tell me where to look for the wheel sensors. The TOD display area just says check. Is there a separate TOD fluid, separate from the brake fluid? The brake fluid is not low. I've read people talk of SOTF gear fluid or oil. Is it the same thing as TOD fluid. Thanks, Diane
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    There is no TOD fluid, basically the "check" light is telling you that there is some variance in the speeds reported by the sensors but the TOD can't compensate....

  • Just as the title says. I turn the key and there is no sound, headlights work & idiot lights work. Could this be the relay or possibly a loose connection to the hot side on the starter? The problem is also intermitant, I turned the key again later after this happened and it kicked over right away. The truck is the manual version & I believe that the clutch was fully pressed down every time I start it. I guess it could even be a faulty switch behind the clutch pedal..... Any advice or ideas to help me diagnose my problem would be appreciated.
    Thanks. :confuse:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I feel like a dope having to ask, but how do you set the time on the factory radio in a 94 Trooper? Purchased used suv, no manual, is premium sound system w/cd. thanks for any help. I have tried online with no success so far.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    I don't know about your specific setup but, on some systems, the radio will have a clock button which you should press and hold then press the bass and treble buttons. Unfortunately, "secret handshakes" vary from brand to brand.

    tidester, host
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Picked up my '04 LE Armada today. WOW is all I have to say. It's huge compared to the Trooper. Handling is about the same or slightly better than the Trooper. Looking forward to comparing them. No doubt the Trooper will be better offroad, but for towing I can't wait to get the Armada towing. Heck I bet I can tow the Trooper on the trailer with the armada!

  • beer4799beer4799 Posts: 23
    I am at 143K and still going............Good Luck with the new Nissan..........
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Thank you for your response, tidester, but unfortunately, there is no labeled or obvious clock button on the radio. I have tried combinations of buttons to no avail. I am still looking for a 94 Trooper owners manual on ebay. Still, I would like to stop the blinking clock.....really annoying. I'll keep trying.
  • videorovvideorov Posts: 1
    Im wondering if it is going to require any welding to put it in. I have to replace
    both front fenders too. Those seem to bolt on. It looks like the radiator support
    wall that hold the headlights etc may have to be welded in some spots. Maybe
    I will have to spot weld it?
    Anyone do this type of repair?
  • chadechade Posts: 14
    I have a 1993 trooper LS and last year it started chugging along pretty bad. I changed the O sensor, IAC motor, EGR and cleaned the throttle body and did plugs and wires. The problem temporary went away but has returned. My check engine light comes on when I accelerate but goes off at stop lights. When I floor it i get a putter and the vehicle doesn't accelerate, black smoke also comes out the exhaust. I also changed the convertor because the exhaust was burning hot. The truck was flooded and I changed the oil and plugs and it ran for 100 miles and then went back to its crappy old self! WHAT SHALL I DO?????? Thanks.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I had a similar problem with my 1988 Trooper. It turned out to be the O2 sensor was unplugged electrically. Plugged the wire back on and normal performance was back!!!
  • That’s also my observation. Over past five months, and to many visits to Isuzu dealer’s service dept. For Throt. Valve Sensor and Incoming Air Temp. sensor problems. I have my own trouble reader so they could not get me on that. The services dept. all says well, the computer only indicates alarms codes. They (services dept.) have not been able to find the problem with Air Temp. Sensor. Every time mech. Checked sensor the answer was” it looks ok” and when asked how they can determine if it is in fact, faulty. They answer, by looking at it. After all the BS, I went to storage to recover my OVM and went home and took ohm readings at diff temps. The ohm readings were off by over 3.7KOHM. Spent $27.00 for a new (thermister) sensor…. Well, damm, problems went away no additional “check” engine lights. When service dept. was informed of corrective action there reply was “good guess! Right…. Not sure why today’s mech. don’t troubleshoot to the component level? Of all the recent electrical problems that, I went to the dealer with, I had to troubleshoot and correct all! They score “0”. So much for warrantees : :cry:
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    So far my warranties direct one has been good, been going to a local mechanic and they've replaced the starter under warranty, and most recently had the air temp sensor replaced and O2 replaced. It is running a bit more peppy with slightly better milage now.

    So far I'm getting better milage with the armada than the trooper. In the first 1k miles i'm getting an average of 14mpg in mostly city driving. The one trip I took to PA yielded 17 on the highway at 75mph. Not too shabby for 5.6L V8.

  • sandra64sandra64 Posts: 1
    Hi there,

    I am also new to this forum. Sorry, I don't have any answers but we have a similar problem. I have checked the board and haven't been able to find an answer.

    We have a 1993 Trooper LS purchased in 1999, currently has 249,000 km and is in great shape. One problem - when we lock the doors, we have the same problem with the factory alarm going off. Some times it happens within a few minutes of locking the doors. Sometimes it is in the middle of the night. It started doing this about 8 months ago. Being we bought it used it has no owner's manual and I can't figure which fuse to pull out of the fuse box to try to stop the problem.

    Any advice, information, or instructions are greatly appreciated as to how to stop or prevent this.

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I have driven them in snow over the weekend. They performed well over 600 miles of wet and snowy road and parking lots in up to 8 inches of wet slushy snow. Still very quiet tires. Rotated once so far with around 5K miles on them. I am glad I have them, Iike their looks better than LTX M/S. I miss the traction comfort factor the Revos gave me, but these G051 tires are quieter and less expensive than Revos. If I get the itch to go off road I may consider getting a set of off road tires LT285/75R16 on their own rims and swap for the off road day.
    On the highway I have been getting 19 mpg with the G051 P265/70R16. That is the same or slightly lower than with my previous set of AT Revos P255/70R16 and 1 MPG lower than the stock P245/70R16 tires the Trooper came with.
  • makayemakaye Posts: 81
    Well, I'm pretty happy.
    I had Rancho RS9000s on my 2001 Trooper. Had one that failed.
    BUT, even when working well, I had mixed feelings about the shocks. The adjustment capability was great. Especially off-road. On washboard dirt roads, turn down to 1, when rock-crawling (really mild rock-crawling) turn em up to 5 to maintain ground clearance. What I didn't like was the non-gas technology. For me, a hydraulic shock just doesn't seem to respond as quickly to dampening motions compared to a gas shock - especially at LOW speeds.

    Spent a LOT of time thinking, comparing, reviewing websites

    Ended up I bought the KYB MonoMax hi-pressure shocks. These are lower pressure shocks as compared to Bilsteins (280 vs 360PSI or so). The shocks are also far different as compared to the older KYB Gas-a-justs. Had those on an older truck. I couldn't compress those easily by hand (very stiff). The MonoMax, while stiff, can easily be compressed for installation. They are also beefier in diameter. With Gas-a-justs or Bilsteins - they came strapped in a compressed position - one would set the lower end of the shock, cut the string, point the other end of the shock toward the mount and pray you hit the target as it rapidly expanded - if you missed, could be trouble getting them compressed again. The MonoMax shocks came uncompressed. I installed the lower end of the shock, compressed the upper end into place with not too much effort.

    On road the shocks are great. Very compliant on smooth roads, rough roads, over speed bumps, and big dips. Additionally, they are very controlled. One blip and the shock settles right down. On washboard dirt roads the ride is quite acceptable and control is quite good. I think I can easily control an uncomfortable ride off-road with tire pressure alone if need be.

    With the 9000s, driving at speed was fine and generally controlled over big bumps. At SLOWER speeds, like drainage dips or speed bumps, I often felt that I was pogo-ing over them. It could take two or to three oscillations to fully settle down. It may actually have been ONE oscillation per shock, but because the oscillation (rebound control) was SLOWER in the hydraulic 9000s, it just FELT like several bounces. Now, adjust the shocks to 4 or 5 and those yips would settle down PRONTO, but the on-road ride was jarring. Hit a speed bump at 40mph, no problem, at 5mph, my morning coffee would spill all over the console.

    I was constantly fiddling around with the in-cab adjustment (which was pretty nifty): anywhere from 3-4 in the front, 1-4 in the rear. On washboard dirt roads at speed, anything over a 2 might get the wheels oscillating out of tune with the body. The shocks have less than 30K miles on them. Rancho will only replace the one leaking shock.

    The MonoMax shocks are both controlled and compliant. We'll see how they do over time, but the KYB Gas-a-just I had on my truck lasted 100,000+ miles and still worked great. Cost is also pretty good, less than $50 each shipped. Warranty is the same as the Rancho's, generally "lifetime" to the original purchaser.

    So, I'm quite happy so far. Keep you posted on any interesting results. Plus the shocks are red. Anything red must be good.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I am about to have a set of roof rack brackets made that use the existing threaded 6mm holes in the roof on the 1992 to 2002 Troopers. They will be made of stainless steel since I am tired of painting my old T100 brackets that I bought from OverLander. My new brackets will be similar to the T100, but without the holes in the top, that way I can drill my own holes to fit under a section of 8020 aluminum T-Slot extrusion which will run front to back and provide easy mounting for the crossbars while still allowing the cross bars to be removed for better MPG.
    Your Opinion Please: Should I open this opportunity for others to increase the quantity and thereby we get them all at a lower price each?
Sign In or Register to comment.