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Isuzu Trooper



  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    Yes, my Trooper is 4WD and 5 speed manual transmission. Manual transmission makes the Trooper more fun, especially when driving it hard. I like that my trooper slows down when I let off the gas even down hill, it is scary to me the feeling of acceleration that you can get when letting off the gas and going down hill in a free rolling automatic. Now they have "grade logic" or some such in the automatics -- about time.
    A long time ago I had a 1964 Corvair Eight Door Greenbriar Deluxe. I built an engine from junk yard scrap while running with the old engine to the junk yards in Florida, the ones with the rattle snakes in cages out front as a caution to scavengers that liked to crawl under. That engine I built with custom pistons and the distributer was very easy to adjust inside a little trap door on the rear of the van. The engine was running wide open a lot since it was small compared to the van. So, I would adjust my timing to match the fuel I was able to get. In the mountains out West the octane was lower than back East so I made this timing adjustment many times when driving cross country. Fuel economy was much better with higher octane and more agressive timing.
    Along comes the very first Isuzu Trooper I have ever seen in 1984. I bought it in San Diego. I took it apart to see how it worked thinking I'd better be ready to work on it all the time just like I worked on my Greenbriar all the time. Never had to do much with the Trooper, just regular maintenance for 201K miles when I sold it so I could buy my 1995 Trooper with A/C. I decided to do a octane vs. MPG test over about 2 dozen tanks of gas some of each the low and midgrade and high octane fuel. I found that the Trooper would get better MPG with the midgrade enough to offset the extra dime per gallon. The high octane fuel did not add very much more MPG compared to mid grade and so I used mid grade since. My 1984 Trooper only had an 11 gallon or so fuel tank, my reason for wanting more MPG was not so much to save money but to increase range between gas stops. Several times I was crossing a large distance (Alaska, Idaho, Monana etc..) through the night and had to lower speed to 45 MPH to be able to keep going until a gas station would open along my route, I prefered to keep driving rather than stop and wait a couple hours for the gas station to open in the morning.
    I have never repeated my MPG test over such a large number of tanks of gas, but I do like to use mid grade or sometimes they only has regular and high grade so I get high grade. Your mileage will vary.
  • I have 89 isuzu trooper, i have replace relays, coils, disturbios, fuses. I have checked wires. I have even changed the ecm and still no spark. I also changed the maual under the intake. What do I do??????? What usually goes wrong with troopers???? Around here everytime I find one in a junk yard it is never wrecked. Please reply. I miss my trooper.... :cry:
  • silverghostsilverghost Posts: 154
    "Grade Logic" in late model automatics has the same effect as gearing down in a five-speed. Great stuff, Isuzu!

  • silverghostsilverghost Posts: 154
    Sounds like it's time to consult a mechanic who knows more than a little about electronic ignitions. Could be the battery, alternator, voltage regulator (assuming you have one) . . . Keep us posted, and good luck!

  • I've noticed my Trooper doing that - and didn't know why.. Wow, now if they could get cruise to be autopilot we'd all be set! ;)
  • yngveyngve Posts: 12
    It sounds like the solenoid isn't disengaging properly. I had a Porsche 914 that had the same problem - I'd have to whack the starter with a wrench to get it to stop grinding. Once I replaced the starter, no more problem.

    As for the Duelers, everyone I know who's run 'em has noticed quick wear. A friend w/a 2002 Chevy 2500 running the same size 'upgrade' tires as most troopers (265-70-16) went through a set (almost down to the cords) in less than 40k miles - he switched to BFG TAs, and has managed 60+k with a good 1/4 to 1/3 tread left. YMMV.

  • dcamdcam Posts: 15
    Your starter is failing.It is common on troopers.It's time to replace it.
  • Is there anywhere I can get a definitive layout for ALL vacuum hoses? I have seen the few pics on but it leaves a lot out, still... I just got my 88 and found a lot of hoses needing replacement and during this, I have found a lot that are not hooked to anything. When I used the aforementioned planetisuzoo pics, I followed what I could but now I get a good start and then id shuts off. Cannot keep it running at all. It WAS just having an issue with not wanting to start when the engine was hot, now the symptoms have spread. I really want to think that both issues are vacuum-related, but I cannot find much out there for routing...

    Please help!!

  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    You need to pick up a Haynes manual for that Trooper at Auto Zone. The book is only about $10 and it gives pretty good pics for hose routing.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Posts: 118
    I just got back from a vacation to Costa Rica, where I did a lot of driving in a little Daihatsu Terios mini-SUV. When I got back, I really appreciated how smooth and solid my Trooper is (and also how good the roads are in the US). In CR, there are lots of 4WD vehicles because the roads are pretty bad. Not surprisingly there are lots of Troopers. That's a pretty rough enrivonment, and most of the Troopers were older models, so that says something about their durability.
  • Hi all..
    I put Rancho 9000's on my 99 Troop about 3 years ago. I don't know if its just me getting old or the shocks but they don't seem to ride nearly as well as when I first got them, and I can't find a setting that I'm happy with. I also have Revo's on my Troop. So I'm wondering how I can tell if they are "worn out", and whether I could improve the on road ride by going to Bilsteins or something else?

    My complaints about the ride are that its very jarring over small bumps on the road, and when I put the shocks on the 1 or 2 looser settings, the handling gets VERY sloppy. Speed bumps are a nightmare right now.

    So, has anyone had the 9000's and changed them for something different?

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    Old Man Emu to the rescue!
    I have put nearly 400K miles on three Troopers. I have put maybe 80K miles on Troopers with OME shocks and rear coil springs. OME Nitrocharger low pressure gas shocks including the firm ride version (I like the mid grade between comfort and expedition versions) have a soft ride over little bumps and firm control over larger bumps such as speed bumps. I also like the OME rear coil springs, but these add 1.5" height which is good for off road but not good for MPG or for grandma to climb in. The OME last the life of the Trooper as far as I can tell, no deterioration over the 80K miles I put on them. OME makes the Trooper much more fun to drive. I almost forgot, a plus for offroading is that the OME shocks are more durable and have longer stroke for max wheel travel to prevent loosing traction.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Posts: 118
    I also have Ranco 9000's on my 98 Trooper and have never been terribly impressed with them. I replaced the stock shocks at around 50k and got mild but not huge improvement in control. I tend to feel the small bumps a lot, as if the shocks were firm, but the truck still feels floaty on big bumps and has significant nosedive on braking. If I was to do it again, I'd probably go with OME if I wanted the best, or just go with a cheaper gas-charged shock. Several people around here seem to be happy with the likes of Monroe.
  • troop2shostroop2shos Posts: 235
    FWIW, I've been running the RS9000X (9 adjustment settings) on my '00 for the past 3 years at the 5 setting with no issues so far & very good control. The 5 setting works very well on the highway with a slight increase in harshness around town (only really noticeable on speed bumps) wife doesn't like a harsh ride anyway & she has no complaints at this setting. I also tow a trailer on occasion & needed the adjustment flexibility. I've run Bilstein's before on sport sedans & liked them though they are firm with the 100# nitrogen pre-load & increased spring rate which broke a shock mount putting the shock through the floorboard. The OEM Tokico non gas shocks were worthless at 34k & had to go & I caught a deal on the Rancho's...otherwise, I was leaning towards the OME.
  • I'm glad to see this topic addressed. It's the reason I am cruising through this forum. I have a 99 Trooper with a little over a 100K on it. It has gone from using a quart of oil every 1500 miles to a quart every 500 miles. I talked to Isuzu America who told me I need to have a dealer do an EGR, PCV check, an oil cosumption check and a compression test. I don't know how much that costs, but it's really more than I have to spend at this point. (The guy had the nerve to tell me he drives a Toyota) I really like the Trooper, but I'll be really ticked if I have to do a ring job at 100,000 miles on a 6 cyl. Our other car is a 4 cyl 94 Toyota Camry with 350,000 miles on the original motor-maybe the cust rep had a point. All reports I read before I bought it said the Trooper uses oil, but it seems excessive to me. Is there any support from Isuzu on this?
  • I had this happen with my 99 Trooper and it turned out to be the computer. It is such a rare problem, I bought a used computer from a junk yard and it took care of the problem.
  • From a previous post:

    Both of my '99 Troopers were using about 1 quart every 500 miles. I've tried Sea Foam and a few other additives in both the oil and gas and checked the PVC system with no improvement. Then I tried CD2 Oil Detergent and my oil consumption improved to 1 quart per 1500 miles within 3000 miles from the time I added it and is still improving. I found it at WalMart and it was less than $3 a bottle. This stuff really works and I highly recommend anyone with oil consumption problems in their '98 or '99 Trooper try this first.
  • Thanks to everyone for your comments. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one that isn't totally impressed with the Ranchos. I guess I'll take a look at the OMEmu's.
  • makayemakaye Posts: 81
    I had the RS9000's - put on at 400 miles on the odometer, now have 36K - and just changed to the MONOMAX by KYB (different than the gas-a-just). I am VERY happy with the ride quality on the street, off road, and everywhere in between.

    The suspension is a stock 2001. I may go for OME springs with a lift in the future, but for general use, the MONOMAX can't be beat in my opinion. Soft on abrupt hits but very well controlled on the whoop-dee-doos. They are softer than Bilsteins on a Trooper. $50 a piece online.
  • I know it took me forever to respond to you guys help but Boxtrooper, I myself just made a similar long trip. Went from VA to IN and back the other way 10 days later, and I too went through the Appalachian Mtns. Over 11 ½ hours, driving 75 mph, I was consistently hitting about 285 miles and my gas light was coming on. The first trip I averaged 14.55 mpg (A/C full blast, which after a charge might I add is still SEMI COOL only, not cold and has not made any improvement since the charging; Used a kit and the pressure gauge said I was low so I filled to the full mark, comments on that one anyone?). Then on the way home I averaged 14.72 mpg on highway and had my air off almost the whole way home.
    I am driving a 3.5L Auto with the TOD. It is a 2001 Sport with 51,000 miles, and I was the only one in it with probably 100lbs or so of cargo. I have the same Yokohama Geolanders that you are using (only about 6,000 miles on them), everything else is completely stock on my truck, no roof rack either. Almost 15 mpg on the highway just isn’t right, can’t be. Maybe it’s this oil vs. gas thing that was being brought up.
    Boxtrooper I am going to try your experiment and see what happens, So what yearly fuel injector cleaner do you use? In the mean time where is this “CD2” for oil found and for how much? And there are a couple things that people mentioned they clean two being the EGR and PVC, what are the others . . . any of that work or suggested?
    I appreciated all the help by the way.
  • prior to leaving for the haul there, and back. I did and oil change with the mobil1 5w-30 oil a double guard fram oil filter and an oil additive too.
  • CD2 can be found at WalMart, NAPA, or Pep Boys. It's $2.97 at WalMart. I tried cleaning the EGR and PVC with no change at all.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I use Valvoline products because my dad always did. So the annual injector cleaner is the Valvoline Synpower Injector Cleaner once a year version (they also have an every 3000 miles version). I worry about additives side effects, so I use the fuel injector cleaner just a tank or two of gasoline ahead of the regular oil change, just in case the additive made its way to the oil.
    I also use Valvoline Synpower oil, the 5 qt. bottle of 10W30 at Walmart and an extra qt. of 5W30 (Walmart seems to always have only the 10W30 in the 5qt. and the 5W30 in the 1qt.). I top off the oil beyond the 5qt. to the full line on the dip stick and put the rest of the 1qt. bottle (or an extra 1qt.) in one of the back door pockets. I use Purolator Pure one oil filters. PL24459 larger size if I can find it, or PL14458 regular size oil filter.
    I do not think the synthetic oil is needed if not towing or otherwise driving the engine really hard really often. I used dyno oil for 201K on my 1984 Trooper and for 80K on my 1995 until I started towing. My 2001 Trooper has always had synthetic, Mobile1 until I bought it at 30K then Valvoline SynPower. I do think the synthetic will make the engine last longer, but more importantly, I think if the oil level went low for some reason, that the synthetic oil would prevent damage a little longer because of its higher temperature stability.
    I have not changed or looked at the EGR or PCV valves, but my mechanic ( might be checking them when they do regular maintenance. Creech is a great mechanic and would know what to look for.
    Just a thought on transmission efficiency: Can the Trooper auto tranny be adjusted to shift more "crisply" and stay in "torque converter lockup mode" more of the time thereby making it behave more like the manual transmission? This might trade having to feel when it shifts for using less fuel. Did your automatic transmission ever shift to a lower gear going over the mountains? I was able to keep 5th gear all the way because of being up near 70 MPH.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    This isn't too BIG a surprise for the Trooper. It isn't areodynamic and the higher you speed abover 65mph the larger the hit on mpg's. Since you are driving a 2001 model, it is a little concerning though. My 99' doesn't get the MPG that my 2001 does. It lags by about 3 MPG, but the 2001 is NOT a 4X4. Still, I get 18 - 19 mpg on the highway at about 70mph. It falls off quickly when I push it up to 75-80mph.

    The low charge on the A/C will cause a problem but so will an overcharge on the Freon. I made that mistake on my 99' and the pressure switch kept cutting the compressor off if the outside temperature was below about 88 F. As long as it was HOT outside it performed well, but not otherwise. The troubling thing is, you have the 01' Trooper and it has an electrical cooling fan that should improve the cooling efficiency of your A/C. My 01' will FREEZE you out after you've had it running 10-15 minutes. You might want to check that your compressor isn't switching on and off constantly now that you've re-charged your freon.

    I vented some freon pressure off my 99' and corrected the problem and it cools much better than it was before. Not up to the standard of my 01' but much better than before.
  • troop2shostroop2shos Posts: 235
    Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see any mention that the A/C recirculate button was depressed while experiencing the lack of cooling - otherwise check / listen for continuous compressing cycling as stated previously.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I got the OMEs several years ago...they are great. Huge improvement on the ride on and offroad.
  • riley7riley7 Posts: 1
    I test drove a 2002 Trooper, and I'm thinking of buying it. It actually handles very well on back highways and even on twisty curves. I was surprised given what I'd heard. However, it tends to wander in its lane at freeway speeds and requires constant steering adjustments. It's not too bad at 55, a little wearying at 60, and at 65 and above, it's very tiring and prevents me from relaxing. I could probably adjust and get used to it, but it's not fun. Is this common to Troopers, or is it a problem that has a solution, or is it unique to the Trooper I'm considering? The vehicle has 54,000 miles, and new Big Foot A/Ts. I don't know about the shocks. Everything seems stock. Thanks for any help.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    This sounds like an alignment problem or a tire problem. I have had issues with a Trooper holding a straight line, but it was corrected by front alignment. Ask the present owner to fix it prior to buying. The new tires could be a problem, there might be a manufacturing defect on one of them.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I had a wondering 1984 Trooper. Even after repeated alignments the problem persisted. The problem was not always there. It turned out that the tires with 90K+ on them were weakening in the sidewalls, this caused the tires themselves to wonder and take my Trooper with them. A replacement set of tires and all was well.
    A note about used cars and Troopers, when I was looking to replace my totalled 1995 Trooper (rear ended by large Volvo, Volvo front end gone and the roof bent as if a tree had fallen on it, Trooper drove away, but airbags replacement would have been >$6000). Many of the used Troopers were fitted with assorted tires of the lowest quality imaginable, so, if your used Trooper has old or missmatched tires, have them looked at before spending a bunch on an alignment, maybe you can get a free alignment check.
  • Trooper's are pretty tall relative to their track width. They all wander to some degree, moreso when there's a crosswind. That said, have a reputable shop check the alignment (I've had mixed success getting my own Trooper aligned). You can make a significant improvement by replacing the rubber sway bar bushings, front and rear, with poly-eurathane bushings. They're widely available, and doing them is a piece of cake. For me they made a noticeable difference in sway, nosedive and wandering. I haven't replaced shocks yet (my 2001 is at 55K), but many here say that upgraded shocks help - KYB MonoMax, Rancho 9000 and OME seem to be popular. A slightly wider tire might also help. I went from 245/70's to 255/70's and noticed a bit of improvement. 265's might have been better.
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