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Isuzu Trooper



  • Footnote -

    If you have "Auto A/C" as I do in my '01 LS, there's no need to switch anything if it begins to get too cool, except the temperature adjustment. It switches to outside air on its own. I'm like you other guys - 95+ in Houston, and I keep mine at 72-74 and it does just fine. But even with the Light Silver Metallic paint and full factory tint, it does take the system a while to reduce the interior temp. After that, it maintains it pretty well. If you have kids / wives / or other button-punchers along for the ride, just press the "Auto" button when you get in to make sure it is, in fact, in "full auto" mode. It really is the most effective setting.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    was corrected on the 00' - 02' models. They added an electric fan at the front of the radiator and these units do a much better job cooling the Trooper down than the 99' and earlier models. I have a 99' and an 01' and there is no comparison, the 01' will out cool the 99' hands down from the minute the vehicle is turned on!!
  • bawbcatbawbcat Posts: 118
    I have a 98 Trooper with about 70k miles. Just recently the engine has started making a loud "knocking" noise when cold and idling. It almost sounds like a diesel. As the engine warms up, the noise goes away. I'm currently running 5W-40 full synthetic oil which has been in there for about 3500 miles. It has always had regular oil changes with full synthetic oil since I bought the truck at about 45k miles. Any ideas on what the problem might be?
  • Have you ever had the valves adjusted?
  • Sorry to hear the CD2 didn't do it for you. I've tried every other thing mentioned on this and any other forum and nothing else worked til the CD2. I recently had a mechanic that was familiar with the oil burning problems of the Troopers tell me that Lucas Oil Stabilizer also would fix the problem, but I have no first hand experience with it. Might be worth a try!
  • bawbcatbawbcat Posts: 118
    No, I don't think the valves have ever been adjusted. I do probably need to get that done. Since the noise appeared suddenly though, I don't think that is the culprit.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I don't think the 98' 3.5L engine requires valve adjustments. The older troopers did have mechanical lifters, but I don't think that is the case on the newer motors.
  • cobbocobbo Posts: 34
    Well, I've got a Black '01, and I live down in central Florida, where we have a different take on the concepts of heat & humidity...but I can tell you that I've never had a problem with the a/c - cools great, even with the black paint absorbing tons o' heat during the day. Best wishes,
  • Yes, valve adjustment every 50k!
  • I have owned a 1984 Trooper 1.9L without Air Conditioning, and a 1995 Trooper 3.2L with Air Conditioning that was very cold and instant, actually getting A/C was one of the bigger reasons I sold the 1984 and bought the 1995, and the 95 A/C was very impressive. The 1995 was totalled so I bought a 2001 Trooper, which I still own. The 2001 A/C is adaquate, as good as most cars I've been in, but not as impressive as the 1995 Trooper's A/C.
    I only buy light colored Troopers in anticipation that summer will always return. The 1984 was radar resistant beige (a champaign beige Trooper looks extra slow) because all the nicer colors were already sold. The 1995 was white with unpainted bumpers and no wheel flairs and the Power Package, I got lots of comments on how good it looked with just the OME suspension and A/T 245/75R16 tires. The 2001 is a sandy silver color with slightly darker bumpers and wheel flairs, I have 265/70R16's on it because the flairs make the tires look smaller. With the OME suspension medium stiffness it rides wonderfully. My wife likes to ride in the Trooper with the windows open, she has a minivan and only its front windows open significantly.
  • Today I broke my windshield when loading 10 foot lumber inside. The wood fit from left rear corner to front right corner. I was worried about scuffing, so I had a blanket under the lumber up front. At the rear door, at the last minute I left my gloves on the end of the top piece of lumber, that extra length was enough to pop the wood against the windshield when I closed the door. Interestingly, the inner glass is not harmed, but the outer glass is cracked like a 8 inch diameter spider. If I just didn't put those gloves there...
    Can anyone offer advice to help me when I look for a replacement windshield? I have only replaced a windshield myself once before. It was a junkyard windshield for a 1964 Eight Door Greenbriar Deluxe Corvair Van. I took it from a van that had a very huge hornets nest hanging from its drivers side windshield visor, did not get stung. That was a quarter century ago, so I don't remember the installation details other than having to get a new gasket to make sure it did not leak into my van.
  • Boxtrooper;
    First, 64 Greenbrier van. Now that brings back some good memories. Feel like saying "groovy" and "boss." Where is that Iron Butterfly album...

    Windshields are key parts aiding body rigidity. If I recall, the one you did in a 1964 was basically held in with a rubber gasket and you did the string/wire thing where the string or wire went around the gasket, the windshield/gasket assembly was placed over the opening and the string was used to pull the gasket edge back over the body sheet metal lip.
    Now windshields are glued in using a urethane adhesive. That urethane adhesive is STRONG. You have to cut the glass away from the adhesive using a piano wire "saw" or special windshield knife. You will need new support brackets, I believe, that are also glued into place. There are spacers between the body shell and windshield that have to be used. You need just rhe right amount of adhesive. There are a bunch of plastic tabs that hold the decorative molding in place that will likely break when removed so you'll need new ones there. I'm the shadetree backyard mechanic type, but, if it was me, I'd leave it to the "pros." It's a pretty competitive group, you may not save much on your you will probably get a lifetime warranty on leaks and squeaks with a professional instal.,2021,DIY_13708_2272109,00.html
    Ask for a "brand name" windshield, so-called OEM auto glass, like PPG or LOF/Pilkington and Carlite.

    Just my opinion.
  • Just bite the bullet and pay someone to do it. It would be a very difficult job without the proper tools, parts and materials, and an extra pair of hands. Plus, it's virtually impossible to remove a salvageable windsheild without breaking it.

    The gasket will have to be replaced, along with the windshield. The plastic trim pieces attached to the A-pillars can be re-used if the installer removes them carefully. BTW, you will need to specify which tint band your original WS has - bronze, green or none.

    I had the WS in my '01 replaced about six months ago - cost $200 and took about 20 minutes. I used a mobile outfit recommended by my insurance company. They came to me and did a very good job. Unfortunately, I didn't specify name- brand glass, and my no-name WS has a ripple all the way across about six inches from the bottom. I can live with it, though, particularly for the price.
  • lostlost Posts: 64
    It could be the timing belt tensioner. These make a sound just like this when they need replacing.
  • Thank You for the help. I'll get the pros to do it. A quick search showed several glass repair compnies nearby.
  • 2001 Trooper, on my third windshield...lot's of rocks and other debris, with a rather poor aerodynamic profile...

    Now when I see a semi about to pass me, I get off the freeway if I can ;-)

    Gravel haulers give me apoplexy.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Posts: 118
    Thanks for the tip, I wouldn't have thought of that. I suppose at 7 years and 70k it might be time to change the belt and tensioner.
  • Hey Boxtrooper....
    Have you ever heard of anyone swapping a diesel drivetrain into a trooper? With as many industrial and fleet diesel engines that Isuzu builds, you would think someone might have tried it. I'm actually considering finding an early to mid 80's diesel drivetrain to swap into my '92 P'up (2.3 carbureted piece of you know what). Couple your desires of a diesel Troop with some biodiesel enginuity and you might have the greatest vehicle on earth!
    P.S. oh, yeah, my 95 Troop is nearly dead...won't run...hoping to tear motor apart soon to find out why.
  • Total installed price for new windshield by Safelite is $266.32 including new moulding, I expected it to cost more.
  • I think the total fuel and exhaust system change over would make swapping to diesel too expensive. I wish you luck on the 1995 rebuild. I'd like to be there with you to see the insides. I have heard that the parts are hard to get and very expensive. How man miles on the 1995? I will be watching to see the why part.
    Thank You
  • Boxtroooper,

    That's a very good price IMHO
  • It was very easy; unbolt the caliper bolts. There were not any set screws holding the rotors on either like a lot of other cars.

    I opted for the Brembo discs, not stock. Stock rusted in like 6 months so I figure the much lower cost Brembo's would do. I got Pads from St. Charles.

    Brembos are available from

    I've ordered al kinds of stuff from them. Very good luck. No, I don't work for them :)
  • We currently own a 2002 LS Trooper (43K miles). We bought it new and have had zero problems with it. I've been trying to stay on top of all necessary service items. Just took it in to an Isuzu dealer to have the tranny flushed and refilled. They also lubed the telescoping drive saft (grease fittings -- didn't know they were there??). It's been a couple of weeks now....and I've notice something that I've haven't noticed before. When the Trooper shifts into OD, the vehicle shudders (i.e., small vibrations). It doesn't happen every time, just when the RPMs are low. For example, if I take away quickly from a stop and keep up the revs, the vehicle shifts smoothly, as expected. However, if I take away easy and keep the RPMs lower (I would consider this "normal" driving), the vehicle will occassionally shudder once it goes into overdrive. It doesn't do it all the time, but it does it enough to cause concern. I took it back to the dealer and they test drove it and checked all the codes. Everything came back normal. One of the main reasons I bought the Trooper was for the outstanding warranty. However, I would rather not have to use it to replace the tranny, etc. Has anyone else noticed their Trooper shudders when going into OD. If so, what did you do to fix the problem?
  • Yep. I had the identical problem with my '01 LS.

    Did you actually get the tranny flushed, or just drained and re-filled? I ask, because I had begun to notice a slight shudder prior to my drain and fill at 32k. Afterwards, the shudder gradually became worse. At 47k, I went to the dealer and was told that the fluid was burned and the tranny was probably bad. However, they wanted to do a power flush before replacing it, just to be sure. I'm now at 56k, and the shudder has not returned. Keepin' my fingers crossed that it's okay, but since I have a lot of miles left on the warranty, I'm not too concerned.
  • Just looked at the receipt..."Automatic Transmission Flush and Fill".

    I just think it's a little strange that you think it (Tranny Service) would only improve the performance of the transmission. So far it's only made it worse.

    Should I take it back and have it flushed again?

    Is this a sign of transmission problems to come?
  • I'd definitely take it back, just to go on record as continuing to experience the shudder after their flush and fill. And, yes, it will cause some real problems over the long run if they don't fix it.

    These 4L30E transmissions seem to be pretty bullet-proof, with the possible exception of their external mode sensor assemblies. I understand that GM has used them across many of their vehicle lines. I suppose it's possible that there are issues with fluid type or service inadequacy. That said, however, my tranny has been problem-free for 9000 miles.
  • Was curious if any Acura SLX owners can comment on the "upgrades" that came with buying the Acura version of the Tropper? I'm in search of a 2000-2002 model year. Was curious if Acura had Isuzu beef up Soundproofing and any other items that may have given a more upscale impression to the vehicle?


  • The SafeLite windshield installation mechanic was very professional. He put primer where removing the old window glue scratched the sealing area, he used a solvent to clean the new glass where the glue touches it. He handled the glass with rubber gloves after cleaning that edge. He used new genuine spacers and top of glass moulding. The glue gun was a power unit that regulates the exact amount. I am very confident that this window is properly installed and will not leak.
    BTW: They did not have the plain green windshield in stock so the put in the "upgrade one" with the tint shade at the top. I don't know if I will like the shade at the top but I let him use it. The invoice says that they sold me the window less than list - for the price of the plain window. Total installed price $266.32.
  • So - has anyone actually gotten any resolution on this issue? I have a 99 Trooper w/Perf package, 99K miles, and just had the same/similar thing happen to me. I was on a fairly long road trip this weekend (400 miles round trip) when the TOD Check light came on and started flashing when I was about 5 miles from my destination. I was in 2WD at the time, and didn't notice/feel/hear anything different while driving. Once I got to my destination, I pulled out the manual and after searching for a bit, found the brief mention of "indicates a problem with the TOD system. Check with your Isuzu dealer". Great. Thanks for the detail.

    I drove the Trooper a few miles the next day, and the Check light was still flashing (note that the back wheel indicator for 2WD mode has remained solid the entire time), but again, no difference was noted while driving. I even enaged TOD for awhile, and moved the manual shifter into 4-Low and then back into 4-High, and no problems were noted (other than the Check light still flashing).

    As I was 200 miles away from home and had noticed no problems, I drove home yesterday (about 200 miles). The Check light flashed the entire time, but the Trooper drove fine, and I actually got somewhat better mileage than normal. This morning I took the Trooper in to my local crooked Isuzu dealer (see post #2609 in this thread) - the one who told me nearly 2 years and 30K miles ago that I needed a new tranny right away - to see if they could at least pull the code for me. They wanted $95 to do that, so I said "Thanks, but no".

    So, anyone have any ideas? I'm going to take it in to my in-laws' mechanic in a couple of days (hopefully he can pull the code at least), but I was wondering if bluedevils or anyone else had ever gotten any resolution on this one. Thanks...
  • Boxtrooper;
    Looks like you did great. Sounds like exactly the right procedure.
    I go without the upper tint. I will probably go with the tint next time (well, I hope there is no next time). I'm tall and the visor flips down too low for me, so the tint band may be better.
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