Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Isuzu Trooper



  • It could still be a lack of fuel getting there. Make sure gas cap is on tight for recirc to work properly. Try a once a year fuel additive to clean the injectors:
    Install a clean air filter or a K&N replacement air filter the kind that fits the stock filter box easier breathing helped out power and less hesitation too.
    You could have spark plugs that need changing or spark plug wires. It is very easy to take out spark plugs on a 1995 Trooper, so take one out to inspect it. A good working spark plug will be clean and dry and probably a tan color. If you decide to change plugs and/or plug wires consider a kit from ask for a complete kit with low resistance wires and non-resistor plugs, your performance will be better in a couple ways: 1.) smoother running and much more torque especially at higher RPMs good for passing or towing. 2.) quicker response to your request for power - less hesitation. Your MPG will go up very slightly if you are a gentle driver or more if your MPG now is low because you are an agressive driver using those top RPMs often. Your engine computer will re-time your ignition a little more advanced, so it is important to reset the computer after you install the DirectHits. I had a 1995 Trooper and went from 9.9mpg towing to 11.2mpg towing, and my normal mpg went up about 1mpg.
    Other modifications I enjoyed on my 1995 Trooper include the OME suspension rear coil springs and all four shocks.
  • how important is my EGR valve to my 96 troopers life
  • If the EGR valve sticks open your Trooper will not idle at all, problem is worse in cold weather. I just had my EGR valve replaced, my 2001 Trooper was idling rough and the CEL came on. The EGR valve was around $230 and the install was about the same amount because the install invloves much time to clean out carbon deposits so the new valve can operate properly. Also the repalcement EGR valve is silver while the original is black, I'm told the design has changed a bit for the better. EGR valves are supposed to last the life of the engine. Sometimes we're not that lucky. The EGR valve is a genuine GM part.
  • Which fuel filter was just replaced? If it was just the in-line filter located beneath the rear passenger door, you may still have a problem.

    Mine was doing almost exactly the same thing, only it got worse the less fuel was in the tank. I replaced the inline filter and it didn't make any difference. There is also a filter screen on the fuel pump located inside the fuel tank.

    I removed the fuel tank, and replaced both the fuel pump and the inlet filter screen. The pump was about $80 and the inlet filter screen was $15. I'm glad I paid the extra $15 to get the filter screen. I almost didn't.

    When I took it out, it was pretty filthy and was clearly impeding fuel flow. It might have just been the filter that was causing the problem, but might as well change the fuel pump while I was in there.

    It took me about half a day to remove the tank, replace the pump/filter, and replace it.

    Now my Trooper drives like it was new.

  • Hello I'm new here if someone can help I'd appreciate it very much. Here goes, my 98 Trooper is making all sorts of noises. First it was just a like a rubbing or scraping noise. But now its like a cling clang noise, it sounds like something is falling apart! This is the weird part when I hit the brakes the pedal kind of shakes. But all four brakes have been replaced and it still makes the noises! HELP PLEASE!!!
  • well my cel is on and the codes say its my egr valve. it idles well but it clicks sometimes and gets HORRIBLE fuel mileage. i was told tthat you could just clean oout the old one and have the codes reset so im gonna do that and save 230 dolars plus installation :shades:
  • My '99 Trooper Perf. has performed flawlessly for 85,000 miles. However, I recently noticed it seemed to take longer than usual to come out of TOD when I switched it off (back wheel indicator lights flashing too long before going to steady glow).

    Then, I noticed that when I would start the truck up and start driving, the back wheels on the TOD display would flash for awhile, and then go to a steady glow. It would do this even if I hadn't used TOD recently. As time went on it took longer and longer to get the steady glow, and finally it started taking so long the red check light would flash.

    When I hit the TOD button, the red check light goes out and the TOD functions normally. Then, when I turn the button back off again same problem -- flashing back wheel lights and eventually the red check light.

  • Got a great deal on a 94 trooper paid $120 bucks for it. I bought it from a guy who just wanted to get rid of it. He said it was having tranny problems. I drove it home and the tranny did not seem to be slipping. It runs great other than there is a whining sound when I drive it. It also smells like the tranny fluid is running hot but the tranny light does not come on. Any suggestions of what this might be. The trooper has 173000 miles on it. :sick: :sick:
  • Thank you very much Yngve. I will have this checked out.Tjanda
  • Micheal thanks for the info, I will check in to this also. tjanda
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    This is what I experienced with my 99' Performance Package 4X4 Trooper when I 1st purchased it. I typically got 12-13 mpg in city driving, and about 16-17 mpg on the highway. Over last couple of years I've tried several things to improve the performance and mileage of this vehicle. Some have worked and some have not. What I'm about to share with you are the things that DID work! Are you ready for this??

    OK, here goes........

    I installed a 750 ohm resistor in series with the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor which shifted the timing of the CPU. This change provided the most immediately noticable difference as far as engine 'power' is concerned. I could feel a difference in the way the engine performed, and how the engine responded to the gas pedal. MPG was improved by about 0.5 mpg city and highway.

    I used CD-2 oil treatment in the engine to clean out the 'sludge' and carbon deposits in the block and ports. The jury is still out on this item.

    I increased tire size to 265 70R 16's which resulted in about 0.5 mpg city and highway. Not actually a mpg change, but more miles traveled per gallon of fuel used because of the circumference of the tire. Gotta watch out for those radar guns though!!

    I installed a vortex generator into the air intake hose and improved mpg by about 1 mpg city. This one had the most noticable impact on mpg and seemed to improve performance and the 'feeling of power' increase slightly.

    I installed a K&N air filter and switched to 92 Octane fuel resulting in about 0.25 mpg city, and highway.

    I consistently get 15 mpg in city driving now, and I'm pleased with that result. I haven't made a highway trip in this Trooper since installing the vortex generator, but plan to make one this weekend. I'll report the results afterward.

    I have made some of these same changes on my 01' Trooper, but I seldom drive it, so I can't report the same details on it. I will report highway mileage results on it later. :D
  • I'm considering selling my '98 Trooper. It's an early '98 S without TOD. I'm wondering what price I can expect. It's in very good shape with typical wear for it's 87K miles - a few minor dings, some chipped paint on bumpers/fender flares. Interior looks nearly new. Timing belt done, new shocks, new Michelins. It's absolutely been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned.

    What's a reasonable selling price?
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    OK, as promised I just got back from an 800+ mile road trip in my 99' Trooper and the results are in on the vortex generator mpg impact.
    Well, not quite what I hoped, but better than I've ever gotten before in this vehicle. 19 mpg average for the trip. This was in various conditions from dry and clear to misty rain and wet roads. Driving about 72 mph consistently and through the rolling hills of western Missouri and Arkansas.
    The one thing I did notice....when on cruise, the transmission seldom has to kick down out of overdrive to make the hills now. There's a feeling of power that has not been there in the past. Sooo....decide for yourself if you want to spend 25 bucks for the gizmo available on ebay.
    I don't regret it.
    Happy Trooping!!! And Happy Thanksgiving. Enjoy the holiday with your families!!
  • My 93 Trooper ls has a snapring that pops off when using 4 wheel drive. May pop off at any given time. It is autolocking hubs. This is the snapring that goes on after the locking hub is put in place. Why would this keep coming off? Is there a bushing or is the shock bad causing the independent suspension to flex too far one way or another causing the snapring to come off? This is my first trooper I need some help. Do they have an aftermarket assy. to take place of the snapring? Thanks for any help. :cry:
  • This website is advertising workshop manuals for Trooper + on CD for 20 Euros: Has anyone had any experience with them?

  • I sold my 2000 S Trooper in May and p/u up a loaded Pilot. Different animal all together, but better suited for my purpose. I put about 150K on my Trooper and was generally pleased. Very tough, very tight and always fun to drive. If Isuzu would have updated, I would have bought another one in a flash. Troopers are really good value for the money. Just be ready to run them awhile as re-sale is terrible. After 100K or so, replacement parts can be very expensive. Good luck to all!

    Hey Paisan, what did you end up buying!
    Cheers to all! :)
  • Hello from New Member

    Thank you to all who have posted on this list. I read a lot of your comments before buying a 2002 Trooper with 65k miles.

    So far I am very happy with my new toy. From the comments on this board, I think I know the downside to owning one of these "orphans", whose parent company may be fading from the scene.

    It looks like most of the Troopers are pretty solid and reliable, but there are a few lemons. Hope I got one of the good ones.

    I am gonna fix the suspension and tires first because this thing rides like an old truck. While shopping, I drove others that rode much better.

    Cheers, :)
  • greentroop, Welcome to the board. No need to worry about Isuzu, they are doing great financially. They might even get back into the car market eventually. I am hoping that Isuzu will start to sell diesel SUVs and pickups and cars after the USA low sulfur diesel fuel requirements come into effect in the later part of 2006.
    I highly recommend Old Man EMU (OME) suspension kits for the Trooper. Get the firm suspension set of rear springs and shocks for all four wheels. I have used OME on two Troopers so far, both were excellent. The firm version is still very soft for little bumps because they are progressive rate springs and prograssive rate shocks. If you get a front winch bumper then get aftermarket SwayAway front torsion bars as well.
    Good tires make a huge difference too. I have been very happy with the Bridgestone Dueler AT/Revos for and AT tire and the Yokohama Geolander G051 for a M/S tire both offer firm ride control and excellent traction, the REVOs are better when max traction is needed and very quiet for an AT tire, the G051 are a little quieter because it is not an AT tire and lighter for on road use and fuel economy. The new tire from GoodYear sounds really nice too. &partnum=67TR6HLALNZOWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=6 tnum=67TR6FORTTT&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=21 6LTXOWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=28 &partnum=67SR6GEOHTSOWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=33 artnum=67SR6ATREVOWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=35
  • Thanks for the encouragement, Boxtrooper. I'll be on the phone to ARB tomorrow to discuss Old Man Emu suspension parts.

    I decided to buy a used car so it would be paid for, and then mod it to my satisfaction.

    My driving will be mostly highway with mild to moderate off-road occasionally. I live in Eastern Washington, where there are mountains, and four definite seasons. My previous car was a late model Volvo with plastic air dam in the front. I got really tired of scraping the ground-effect fairings on curbs and rocks and bottoming out if I went on the slightest rough road. I got to thinking about my '53 Willys wagon that I had in college
    and decided to go for something similar with room to haul a piece of furniture or some bikes in the back.

    I'd prefer to keep one set of tires on the Trooper year round, and I want to be able to drive a few hundred miles to Seattle and back with good road handling and low noise.

    So here are two questions for you or other readers with experience: Do you think the Sway Away torsion bars add anything if you don't have a lot of extra weight from a winch or bull bars in the front of the Trooper? Is there anything other than new EMU shocks that I should do to the front suspension of the Trooper for good on/off road handling and ride?

    Should I stay with standard size tires (245/70 X 16), or go oversize. If oversize, how much and why?

    And, yes, I did a search of the forum and read everything here about installing bigger tires. I am suspicious that most people put on larger tires because they look cool. The most informative statements I found about oversize tires are that they look cool, that they float better in sand or soft ground, and that they also float in snow (which you don't want to do because it decreases traction). I don't recall seeing comments about how larger tires change the ride or handling on pavement. (Oh yeah, you get slower acceleration and stopping because of the greater mass of the tire.) But how does it feel when you drive it?

    So, I'm definitely going to upgrade my suspension, then decide if it's "time to re-tire".

    Greenie :)
  • Oversize / taller tires provide increased ground clearance plus putting more rubber on the road at the expense of increased rolling resistance / fuel economy, spreading out the contact patch losing more lbs. / sq. in. of tire loading for better snow performance, gear ratio change, higher center of gravity, etc.
    I run 255/70x16 B'stone Dueler A/T Revo's which increased the ground clearance by only a 1/2" & wouldn't cause an issue with my wife climbing in...really depends on what your needs are. I run 35 / 38 psi F/R & the Revo's are not harsh under the Rancho 9000 shocks at the 5 setting.
    Besides the suspension upgrades, I would make sure all of the fluids have been changed, plugs, pcv valve & especially the EGR induction service - including removing deposits around the intake butterfly valve to insure it closed properly if it hasn't been done with the mileage reported.
  • IMHO, the bigger tires look a lot nicer if you have the plastic wheel well flairs. I went with the 265/75R16 Geolander G051 because they were light weight for their size, and I think there is a direct relation between tire weight and MPG.
    Other than looks, the bigger size tire does provide a bit more truck-like ride, firmer, quicker steering response, bigger bounce over small bumps etc.. But the difference is not huge and you can get the firmer ride from the smaller tire by running it at higher pressure.
    If you want the best fuel economy get a street only rib type 245/75R16 tire of the lightest wieght you can find.
    If you want the best offroad while still being quiet and good handling on the road with decent stopping power and ice performance get the REVOs. Get a larger size like 265/75/16, 275/70R16 or even 285/75/16 will fit, the larger diameter and more weight takes away MPG. I think the Trooper brakes are excellent and can stop you well even with the heavier tires. Note that there is a truck tire study on the internet somewhere that concludes that more tread or more agressive tread reduces MPG also. Note also that there is a P265/75R16 REVO tire that has one less steel belt and less tread depth than the LT version which makes it lighter for better MPG.
    If you want a compromise between the two above, quieter than REVOs just as good on road, and a competant but not terrific off road tire try the G051s in a 265/70R16 for a little bigger look without much MPG hit.
    For everything the G051s give you but even more quiet and perhaps a little better on road ice performance try the Bridgestone Dueler Alenza, but these cost more than G051s.
    Then there's the unknown new tire from GoodYear. It looks like a SUV sized version of their very successful minivan tire. This one has the snow flake on the side because it neets that snow tire traction requirement.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Guys, I posted a question about TOD problems in the Isuzu Maintenance & Repair topic. Didn't want to list the same question this this topic, but did want to mention it here in hopes that more people would see it in the Maint/Repair topic. Thanks!
  • Many thanks to boxtrooper and troop2shos for all your helpful tips. I am checking out all the info on tires and shocks and stuff and will report back on the results.

    Greenie :)
  • Question, Was your transmission slipping in all gears or just the first gear... My 2001 trooper slips only in 1st gear if I do a quick start??? any suggestions...thanks, ca
  • My 1999 Trooper with auto tranny, limited slip rear, winter button, etc, has just had the bottom 2 wheel lights come and blink on the Trooper's message board. At times there will be a "check" message blink below this. I just had some motor work done, and the battery was disconnected. A year ago I had all fluids replaced front and rear in the tranny system by a certified dealer, and the thing drives just fine---no difference than before the motor work was done. On start-up the wheel lights will come on and not blink for a bit---same with the "check" light. However, after a bit of driving on they all come again.

    I'm obviously very interested in what you all have to say about possible problems here, as I'm still driving the Trooper and assuming it might be idiot light problems. Not long ago I had another message come up stating my brakes were gone and to get off the road---turned out to be a glitch in the messaging!

    Thanks in advance all,

  • rmcgxrmcgx Posts: 1
    Any suggestions on how to get the hood open when the cable refuses to do so? When the release lever is fully opened there's about 2 inches of cable exposed. No amount of pushing or pulling on the cable will trip the latch.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    I understand that you may be able to access the brake mechanism by removing the front bumper. I don't think it's very easy to do and you have to be really careful that you don't damage anything (like severing AC lines, cables, etc). If anyone has any experience, please jump in!

    tidester, host
  • makayemakaye Posts: 81
    Maybe you can detach the cable from the lever and just pull on the cable directly?

    You may also have someone - gently - push down on the hood above the latch while simutaneously pulling on the lever or cable.
  • Did you use the cd2 red or black?
Sign In or Register to comment.