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Isuzu Trooper



  • nytroopernytrooper Posts: 14
    They no longer make the PL24458, any suggestions for a larger capacity oil filter ? Or, is the PL14459 a new version with higher capacity ?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    The PL14459 is the regular size, the PL24458 was the extra capacity size of the PL14459.
    Note: The PL14459 is extremely common in Japanese vehicles, fits most Honda cars for example.
    Suggestion for a larger capacity filter: The thread is 20mm x 1mm, measure the filter seal location and then find dimensionally compatible other filters. I once found a reference for a much larger filter made for a diesel engine that would fit, but the pressure relief valve built inside the filter was too high a pressure compared with the PL14459. About that time I found the PL24458 by comparing dimensions and specs in the Purolator book, I used that as long as I could find it.
  • nytroopernytrooper Posts: 14
    Thanks, I've been through the Purolator website, link title and checked out the complete application list for both filters with the one for the PL14459 about triple the size. The majority of those for the PL24458 were for late 80s 4 cylinder models. This is where they note the PL14459 now supersedes the PL24458. Not sure if this was a cost cutting move or if they perhaps had increased the capacity of the PL14459. I realize the Pure One used to be considered the "gold standard", is it still ? Or would it be worth the time to explore a couple other top filter companies (suggestions ?) and see if they might have a cross reference to the larger PL24458 ?

    Related topic. Last oil change at 134K, I switched from Valvoline Max Life to SynPower, mainly using high octane, did switch down once, and the ticking started back intermittently. About to change the oil with 4K on it, but last tank used high octane, and it went away. Not bad considering it's been only 40 days since my last oil change !

    Strange oil change fact. After each, at about 1500 - 2000 miles I'm down about a quart, but at 4000 miles, perhaps a 1/4 quart low.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I recently drove a 6500 mile trip. The first 2500 miles used 3/4 quart or so. The middle 2000 miles in the mountains 5000 to 14000 feet altitude used no measurable amount of oil. The return trip again used oil, about 1/2 quart in 2000 miles.
    I use high octane gasoline to avoid preignition. I also use fuel injector cleaner (Valvoline or Lucas Oil brands) once in a while.
    I have 93K on a 2001 Trooper manual 5 speed. My best MPG was 22mpg in Yellowstone park at 45mph. Next best was 21mpg driving 65-70mph with a tailwind. My worst was 16mpg keeping up 65 to 80mph on 6% up hill grades with a sports car over the Rocky Mountain passes on Hwy70 West of Denver.
  • gtroopergtrooper Posts: 1
    My 89 2.4 5 spd trooper has a problem that I cant figure out. It started whining under load at about 1500rpm. It idles rough but was on blocks when I got it 3 months ago and I have done little to it (shameful). Also it doesnt seem to have much power, and tried to run hot along with the whining. I parked her as soon as I heard the noise and noticed the temp raising, I need some help getting pointed in the right direction.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I would do the stuff you do before buying a car: start with air cleaner and fuel filter condition then compression check and inspect the oil for water and water for oil, then go through everything looking for anything that seems not the way it should be. Next places to look: vaccum leak where air bypasses the carb and makes the engine run too lean and without much power. Inspect the spark plug wires and plugs. If these need a complete replace check out for a complete set of wires and plugs.
    Ask a great Trooper mechanic at
  • nytroopernytrooper Posts: 14
    Back from a 500 mile weekend through New Hampshire and Vermont. Easy 20/21 mpg highway. Ticking had returned pre-trip even with the high octane, ruled out that possibility. No time for an oil change, plus I want to do the research on an alternative solution for the PL24458. Decided to try the Greased Lightning oil additive for lifters, with the 4K old Syn oil. 5 minutes later she had quieted down, but returned after about 40 miles, however 500 miles later, she's very quiet and smooth, probably realizes fresh oil is coming tomorrow. Did manage to briefly cross reference other filter manufacturers who produce the comparable larger filter. Fram's 3593 series crosses to the PL24458, and the size when compared to the PL14459 is that 1" larger. Need spend some more time checking specs, I'd guess that they're Extended Guard is comparable in quality to the Pure One, but could use some input, think I'd like to try the Mobil One version if I can find one.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    The Fram 3593 is the same size as the smaller PL14459.
  • nytroopernytrooper Posts: 14
    K&N 1004 and Mobil M1-104 appear identical and both cross to the 14459 and 24458. Did notice the 3593 series also crossed to the 14459, but thought I did see a taller version at an Advanced Auto, possibly older stock before being phased out like the 24458. On my way back a little later to verify what I saw. If I can't track down the elusive larger one, then I'll most likely opt for the Mobil 1 at 10.95 vs 12.95 for the K&N, curious who's manufacturing for them ?
  • ingmaningman Posts: 1
    Hi my name is bob ingman. I live on remote island in SE alaska. My 91 trooper has a bad waterpump. I purchased another and began changing without a motor manual. I have removed the radiator to gain access to the components more easily. All has been a guessing game . Have reached the point of realizing that the lower timing cover must be removed to gain access to one of the pump mounting bolts. It seems that in order to remove the lover timing chain cover I must first remove the harmonic balancer (big pulley at bottom f engine). Is this correct? I am not able to hold the balancer in position formly enough to loosen the boly holding it. Any suggestions? Any help I can get will be appreciated. The cars sits disassembled right now. Thanks. Bob
  • tburketttburkett Posts: 1
    Looking at a 1999 Trooper, with 100K miles. Excellent shape and runs great. No ticking... ;) Is there anything else I should be looking for? This will be my third Isuzu in a row, had a 2000 Amigo, then a 2002 Axiom XS... looking to sell the Axiom and get something "cheaper". I have always loved the Trooper!! I just need some reliable basic transportation with plenty of room.

    I am aware of the major Isuzu issues, lack of dealers, etc... :(

    Any other issues I should be looking for??? Any advice is welcome.

    Thanks in advance,
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    When I purchased my third Trooper it was the first time a bought a used one. I found huge differences in the suspension and transmission performance in different copies of the same year Trooper.
    1.) Stay away from a Trooper that looks beat inside, because that means they probably have not done the maintenance.
    2.) See if all the tires are the same type and size, sleazy tire selection to save a buck also means they probably have not done the maintenance.
    3.) If the suspension feels worn out and the handling is very sloppy the Trooper has seen some very hard use. Do a good evaluation before buying, then upgrade using an OME or similar suspension upgrade kit.
    4.) Have a mechanic that you hire for $100 to $200 do a thourough check out of the new Trooper, this way you know what you are getting, remember engine/transmission replacement are far too expensive for a used car, unless you are emotioanlly attached to it.
    5.) If you buy it, have all the fluids changed right away. Do the 90K maintenance includes oils for engine, trans, xfer case, 4wd or TOD selector, power steering, front diff, rear diff, and engine coolant. I would also add a full flush of the brake master cylinder and lines. I did all of this on my 2001 Trooper when bought it had 30K miles. I have had 63K trouble free miles and am doing the 90K maintenance today. Doing the service might identify issued to take care of before they become a problem.
    Ask this discussion to tell you of particualar issued for your model. example on my 2001 the intake manifold gaskets are prone to crack, so check for the cracking and change them before dirt is sucked into the engine.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, Yes, you will have to remove the harmonic balancer to change the water pump. You will also need to remove the timing belt, and now is a good time to replace that if ithas not been done, the belt life is 60,ooo miles. If you are even half way to that, I would change it. You will also have to release the automatic tensioner for the belt. Note how it is removed so that you can reinstall properly. The trickiest part of your job is that the belt and timing marks on the timing gears are critical, and must be correct when performing the work. While you are doing this, it would help to put reference marks with a paint stick or marker on each gear pulley and the cylinder head so that when you replace the belt, the gears will be in the right place. The new belt will be marked for the direction of travel and have an indicator on it for timing placement. If you have already done all this, great. If not, In a couple days I can email you excerpts from manual, but you may not want to wait that long. One resource, not free, is, where you can purchase online access to a manual. If you wait until next Monday, I, or another forum member, can email you the manual instructions.
    To hold the balancer, a strap wrench will help if you have one. If not, I have used a piece of half inch rope and made a tourniqet with a screw driver on the balancer to hold it. You may need a balancer remover to pull the balancer off of the crankshaft. Be careful not to hammer or pry the balancer, as it can be damaged. There is an alignment groove and key that you will need to keep track of once you remove the balancer. Good luck. Let us know how you do!
  • kobokokoboko Posts: 34
    Hi, i just went thru exactly the same problem. it turned out to be a bad accelerator pedal sensor (remember this car has drive-by-wire). the part cost like $160, plus another $100 for labor. wasnt a cheap fix. dont waste time messing with catalytic converters or other stuff, this is an electrical problem. have autozone pull a code for you, that way you'll know for sure. good luck!
  • silverghostsilverghost Posts: 154
    Anyone have any experience servicing the Auto-Climate Control on an '01 Trooper? Mine (w/65K) has gotten to the point of running flat-out 100% of the time, with only marginal cooling effect. My guess is that the refrigerant level is low, so I'm driving with no A/C for the moment to avoid damaging the compressor until I can have it checked out.

    I had an Audi that developed a $1300 leak in the evaporator core at 50K. I'm hoping that's not the case with my Trooper.
  • laparka55laparka55 Posts: 8
    Hi all,

    I owned a sweet '92 Trooper for 12 years before I foolishly sold I am looking at a 2000 limited 4wd at a local shop down the street with 62K. They are asking 10500 which I think is high. Reading the posts, I am hesitant to buy -- transmissions, timing belts, oil consumption, ect. I've gathered quite a bit of helpful information from posts, but are there red flags I might check that would indicate whether to avoid this Trooper. Also, carfax showed it was a lease vehicle -- could this mean a rental?? I thought i read something about specific features of rental fleet vehicles??

    Any suggestions are appreciated...

    Thanks, Scott
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, You can also check out value at I ran a quick check and the value you show is in the ballpark.
    One big consideration for me would be how readily you can get service AND parts given Isuzu's departure from the American market. I have a 94 which my son drives, and I too like the older models, but they are not without their problems too. Manufacturers are only required to service emission parts and warranty parts for 10 years after discontinuance of a vehicle, so factor that in too!
    Good luck.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I think the rule is that parts need to be available for the warranty period to comply with UCC regs (I've read all sorts of opinions about this over the years here, so if you have a link I'd love to see it, since I've never found a definitive one. Or maybe I've forgotten it, lol).

    Even if there's no legal requirement, parts for 30 year old obscure models seem easy enough to find. Daewoo owners were very concerned when parts dried up, but that shortage only lasted a few months.
  • bradespbradesp Posts: 21
    If I'm looking at buying a 2000, 2001 or 2002 Trooper. Can you recommend which you would buy and why? Obviously the newer models and lower mileage are obvious candidates, but what about comparing these three years in terms of durabilty and known problems that have been occuring between the 50k and 100K and beyond mileage levels.

    It seems the Tranny is the biggest risk with these vehicles??

  • lamprolampro Posts: 2
    Greetings. I own a 2001 Trooper that has begun missing at idle -intermittently. The onset of the problem coincided with the rear door lock (most distant) having trouble "unlocking." I am guessing this is probably a vacuum leak - probably at the intake manifold gasket which is apparently a common problem with this engine. My vehicle is used hard off and on road but maintained well. I live in a remote location, dealers and diagnostic apparatus are difficult to access and so far have done all my own engine work on this vehicle. So, cutting to the chase - does anyone have any ideas for confirming the problem short of popping the manifold off and looking? Trying not to create work for myself when not necessary. Any ideas appreciated.

    105K miles
    new timing belt, plugs

  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Here is some info you might like and I suggest that you could spray something like wd 40 on the intake gasket surface edges.....changes in idle would occur and it might identify exactly if and where a problem may lie:
    2001 Isuzu Truck Trooper LS 4WD V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Intake Manifold Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Intake Manifold Bolt Torque Revision

    Engine - Intake Manifold Bolt Torque Revision

    TSB SB03-01-S003

    Gasket Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Specifications (Service Manual Revision)

    ISSUE DATE: JULY, 2003

    Affected Vehicles
    1998-2003 Isuzu models equipped with a 3.2L or 3.5L engine.

    Service Information

    2001 Isuzu Truck Trooper LS 4WD V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins All Technical Service Bulletins Electronic Throttle Control - Code Diagnosis

    Electronic Throttle Control - Code Diagnosis


    DECEMBER 2000




    All 2000 - 2001 Isuzu V-6 engines with Electronic Throttle Control.


    All 2000 - 2001 Isuzu V-6 engines with Electronic Throttle Control may exhibit multiple codes for any condition identified in the Accelerator Pedal Assembly and/or the Throttle Assembly. In order to clarify the diagnostics available with the Tech 2 and the PowerLink, this bulletin will present four possible symptoms that actually help identify the root cause.

    The Isuzu Electronic Throttle Control System will usually set multiple codes no matter which driveability symptoms are present. To best diagnose the condition, the service advisor and technician should ask the customer when the MIL and Reduced Power Light sets and if any driveability symptoms were present. The most common codes associated with their respective sensor and/or throttle motor circuits are shown.

    The four most common symptoms associated with Electronic Throttle are:

    ^ The Reduced Power Light may be on with the MIL on/off with no driveability symptoms existing at the time of code detection or during diagnostics. Usually P1271, P1273 and P1275 are stored in memory. The code(s) set at key-up and are related to correlation errors. Remember, when the TP1 and the TP2 or the AP1 and the AP2 actual readings are added together, the total should be 100%. If the variation is at or exceeds 5%, a P1275 may set. In order to duplicate the condition, install the Tech 2 or the PowerLink and perform a quick-snapshot prior to the initial cold start. Look for a glitch on the AP1 reading

    ^ The second complaint will usually be related to the MIL and Reduced Power Light with codes for throttle position sensors or accelerator position sensors. The customer will also complain of lack-of-power. This condition is most likely related to loss of a five-volt reference. Therefore one AP sensor and one TP sensor are affected. A P1275 is definitely present.

    ^ The third complaint will also be related to the Reduced Power Light being on, the MIL on and the vehicle in a "Forced Idle" mode. This may be related to loss of both five-volt references, loss of both AP sensor readings, and/or loss of both TP sensor readings.

    ^ The final complaint is also related to a Reduced Power Light present. the MIL on, and a forced shut-down condition. The vehicle will crank but will not start. This condition may be related to a Throttle Motor condition and/or the loss of either or both five-volt references for the Throttle Position Sensors and the Accelerator Position Sensors.

    Use this bulletin as a guide in determining the direction and starting point of diagnostics for the Isuzu V-6 Electronic Throttle Systems.

    The following information has been revised in the Engine section of the Service Manual. Use the torque chart when installing the Intake Manifold to the Cylinder Head.

    NOTE: Information released on paper and electronic format prior to bulletin release cannot be updated. For the most current and up to date information refer to ISUZUONE. com.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I was not very explicit when I made my suggestion in the previous post.
    Have you checked to see if any codes were set....some may be in memory but not lighting the check engine light (CEL).
    First I would check ALL vacuum lines including emission lines for cuts, holes, burn throughs etc; before assuming it is a gasket problem. I should have told you to start the vehicle and have it idling (highest intake suction condition) when you spray the intake to gasket to head sealing areas with wd-40. Upon doing this, if you hear or feel a change in the idle (roughness or improvement or a change in idle rpm), that would indicate a gasket problem. I am very leery about some mechanics who might suggest using any other compound (gasoline or ether) instead of an inert substance like wd-40 or similar substance. Using a fuel type substance might substantially increase the detection odds for an intake leak, but such flammable materials can pose an even greater burn hazard to you and the vehicle. Please do not use any flammable material to check.
    Although it was a common problem for Isuzus in general, for your year vehicle, I could find no intake gasket Technical Service bulletins.
    There is another bulletin about the accelerator position sensor, but only applies if a code is set (The engine may occasionally experience idle fluctuation and/ or the MIL(malfunction indicator light) will illuminate because an accelerator position sensor (APS) DTC is set; P1271, P1273, P1275, P1280, or P1285. Also the Reduced Power light may be on.

    In the event it is a gasket leak, the info previously supplied might help about torque for the manifold bolts.
    good luck
  • lamprolampro Posts: 2
    Great idea re WD40 and vac leak test. The intermittent nature of the idle problem may be an issue but, as you indicated, a change of rpm or roughness may be revealed. I agree, no flammables. Can't imagine using gasoline!!!??? Will run through the process this weekend.

    So far, no codes have set off the CEL. I'll have to run down a place for a code check. Living in the boondocks makes things a little more interesting with diagnostic problems-can't hop down the street to the local Autozone for a code check. Should probably get a code reader for the shop.

    In any case, appreciate all the information. I'll post when I finally run this critter down.

  • katgrekatgre Posts: 8
    Hey Scott, I say PASSSSSS on the trooper! I have an 2001 Trooper S w/74k I've replaced the engine at 67K and then the Tranny 3k later. This Truck has been a NIGHTMARE! I got the truck w/7k drove ok for awhile then the check engine problem started. It seems that the piece of cramp has been in the shop so many times I lost count.

    I thought I did my research before my purchase but not enough. When my engine locked ISUZU did NOTHING. My mechanic suggested I google search "ISUZU PROBLEMS/ENGINE and WOW what a surprise! I printed various complaints, called Isuzu HQ and my Rep was never in his office. What kills me is that they know of the problems

    So Far I've had:
    3-gas cap sensors
    1-Engine(DRINKS way too much OIL) I now check my oil every 500 miles and change it every 2500 miles
    My vacuum switch keeps going out on the TOD
    My A/C is horrible

    And yes I took care of my Trooper, regular oil changes anytime a light came on I was taking it to the dealership...Which never could find anything wrong. I had no warning about the engine it locked up on me while on the highway.

    I could keep going on but I wont I say stay away! Definitely do a google search this will help make your decision I hope.

    I want to get rid of the piece of crap so bad I struggle everyday when I drive it whether to trade or keep

    Good Luck :sick:
  • davem5davem5 Posts: 8
    I just passed 100k on my 2001 2wd LS. I love my Trooper - very comfortable and roomy for me and my passengers, plenty of storage in the back, yet the overall size of the truck isn't overbearing. Yes, it "lumbers" around like a, yeah you got it, truck.

    My transmission wnet bad around 60k, but Isuzu put in a new one with no hassles (I did have to pay $515 for some electronic selector sensor which was not covered). In the life of the truck I replaced the original shocks at 5K, added stabilizers around the same time, and put Michelins on at 40k.

    Last week, in celebration of the Trooper's birthday, I bought it a tank of premium (it couldn't care less), had it detailed, and had the timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump, gas filter, hoses and plugs replaced, the injectors cleaned, and the cooling system, EGK, and transmission flushed (all around $1500 at the dealer, who I return to only because of the 10/120 warranty. This will be my last visit, then I'll return to my old trusted mechanic who kept my Nissan pickup running well past it's expiration date and 300k.....).

    I love the subtle classy look of my Trooper -it's timeless in the Land Rover-old Landcruiser sort of way. Simple front end, simple back end, simple profile.

    Yes, I wish it could get better gas mileage (16 mpg, but I drive like a maniac, then hit bumper-to-bumper in my daily grind...). I wish I had more confidence in the dealer (a combo Isuzu-Lincoln/Mercury dealer - talk about picking the worst sales combo out there!) or even Isuzu USA - they've really dropped the ball these past 6 years.

    Back then, even at the tail end of the SUV craze, they had the Trooper, Axiom, and Rodeo. In years prior, they made some decent sporty cars, like the Impulse, turbo I-mark. It's a shame, really.

    Anyway, I suggest you go for it...I've found to be a great vehicle overall.
  • I had my 98K '00 LS tranny flushed a while back. Soon afterwards, when I tried to accelerate moderately from a dead stop, it felt like it was slipping than would catch and slam shift. I returned it to the dealer today, and they claimed it was a quart low on fluid and was fine after a top off. They also claimed that no damage was done to the transmission. Is this true? I haven't picked it up as it is also getting a new axle seal complements of my 10/120 warranty, but the tranny problem has been on my mind all day.
  • pshewardpsheward Posts: 11
    Just got stranded for the first time ever by one of my Troopers. Dealer replaced manifold gasket flushed Transmission and said no worries. Drove car from Phila. to Maryland, 60 miles, and as I pulled into town same problem all over. 02 LS 4WD 107K. Regular Mobil One changes, other then the TOD sensor needing replacement twice. no other problems. Is this an extension fo the Manifold issue or something worse? Like my Troop way to much but am starting to worry. Any advice greatly appreciated post and answer or send me an email. thanks.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, thought you would be interested in knowing exactly how Isuzu says a tranny should be flushed. Note that there is a flow test that you could ask the dealer if they performed. Checking the trans fluid should be first priority, as if they left any solvent in the trans from the flush it would, I think, evaporate and that could lower the trans fluid level. Worth checking!

    2002 Isuzu Truck Trooper LS 4WD V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Transmission and Drivetrain Technical Service Bulletins All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Flushing Procedures

    A/T - Flushing Procedures


    NOVEMBER 2002




    All current Isuzu vehicles with automatic transmissions that requires a transmission replacement.


    As part of the normal repair procedure for replacement of the automatic transmission, flushing the transmission cooler and associated lines/pipes must be performed.

    To avoid a second failure, the flushing procedure is required to insure that all debris and contaminants including metal, band material and burnt transmission fluid are removed prior to installation of the new transmission. The flush procedure is part of the replacement procedure and if not properly performed will often result in immediate failure of the replacement transmission.

    The flushing procedure should be completed using a Transmission Cooling System Flusher (J-35944 or equivalent) to insure that all of the pipes and cooler are reverse flushed.

    Follow the flushing procedure provided by the manufacturer of your flushing equipment. These procedures should be used as a standard practice after removing a defective transmission:

    1. After removing the defective transmission, identify the two transmission cooler lines. Identify which line is the outlet and which line is the return line to the transmission cooler.

    2. Attach the flush machine so that the flow of flush solution is the reverse of the transmission fluid flow. Be sure to use only approved Oil Cooler Flushing Fluid.

    3. After the flushing procedure is complete and the replacement transmission has been installed a flow test must be completed.


    Important :The Flow Test must he performed after the flush to ensure that all flushing solution and water is removed from the system.

    1. Connect a hose from the transmission cooler return outlet side to an empty container capable of measuring fluid level. (Figure 1)

    2. Confirm the transmission is filled with automatic transmission fluid. Refer to Fluid Capacity Specifications in the workshop manual for the correct automatic transmission fluid capacity.

    3. Start the engine with the transmission in Park range and run for 30 seconds after fluid begins to flow from the discharge hose. A minimum of 1.9L (2 quarts) must be discharged during this 30 second run time.

    4. If the fluid flow meets or exceeds 1.9L (2quarts) in 30 seconds the flow test is complete.

    5. Reconnect all hoses to the transmission.

    6. Check and adjust automatic transmission fluid level (refer to the workshop manual for proper procedure and capacity).

    Here is how to check fluid. but above all be careful, as the engine is idling and exhaust is hot, and be sure to chock wheels in both directions on level surface:

    When adding or changing fluid, use only DEXRON (R) -III.

    CAUTION: DO NOT OVERFILL. Overfilling will cause foaming, loss of fluid, abnormal shifting and possible damage to the transmission.

    Park the vehicle on level ground and apply the parking brake firmly.
    Check fluid level with engine running at idle. NOTE: Be sure that transmission fluid temperature is below 30 °C (86 °F).
    Move the selector lever through all gear ranges.
    Move the selector lever to "Park".
    Let engine idle for 3 minutes and open the overfill screw (1).
    Add ( DEXRON (R) -III) transmission fluid until it flows out over the overfill screw opening.
    Let engine idle until a fluid temperature between 32 °C (90 °F) and 57 °C (135 °F) is reached, then close the overfill screw (1). Torque: 38 Nm (28 ft. lbs.) NOTE: Check transmission fluid temperature with scan tool. Minimum fluid level 57 °C (135 °F) Maximum fluid level 32 °C (90 °F) I will try to find the link showing the photo of trans openings if you need them. The same trans is used from at least 1999 on Truprs, so any view will do.

    CAUTION: Do not open overfill screw with engine stopped.


    Immediately after driving at sustained highway speeds.
    In heavy city traffic during hot weather.
    If vehicle is towing a trailer.
    If the vehicle has been operated under these conditions, shut the engine off and allow the vehicle to "cool" for thirty (30) minutes. After the cool down period, restart the vehicle and continue from step 2 above.
  • ejr8fanejr8fan Posts: 6
    I recently bought a 99 Trooper. It is in excellent condition, but the transmission has become "clunky". It has 87,000 miles on it. By "clunky", I mean that there is a clunking noise when I shift it from park to drive or drive to park. It also clunks when I come up to a stop sign and it downshifts from 2nd to 1st gear. Has anyone else experienced this? I was hoping it was U-joints, but I fear it is not.
  • green11green11 Posts: 22
    I have a 99 trooper that does a similar thing. I bought mine 2 1/2 years ago with 74,000 miles and mine now has 96,000. I have yet to have one repair. Not so much from drive to park, but mine does clunk often from downshift 2nd to 1st. It has been doing so for about a year and a half. I was wanting it to be U-joint, but I feel it is probably transmission.

    That being said I would not do a transmission flush and just let it be. Mine does not seem to be getting worse. The transmission is the Achilles heel of these vehicles. My father has a ford explorer that had a transmission doing much worse things than this at about 100,000 miles and he has put on another 150,000 miles since then with no repairs. If it is indeed the transmission it could last a very long time or go out soon. Pray to the car gods.
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