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Isuzu Trooper



  • hi I just got 1992 isu trooper LS given to me and Im not sure if the gas gauge works or not i was told to check my fuses now is that true or do i just take a chance and drive it until it runs out of gas? I would appreciate it if someone could help me ouy with this
  • I had a Greenbriar Eight Door Deluxe Corvair Van once upon a time. I drove it across the country South to North without a fuel gauge because the gauge parts inside the tank were gummed up. I took time the remove the fuel tank and fixed it. I also swapped the engine for a freshly rebuilt one, and in so doing, destroyed the speedometer gauge cable. I had no choice but to continue on my journey which was to cross the country East to West.
    While the fuel gauge was stuck, I used an assumption for MPG and the odometer to guess when I needed to fill up. And while the speedometer and odometer did not work I used the gas gauge to guess how far I'd driven, along with mile markers and a map. I sometimes followed another car at a resonable distance to get the speed about right.
  • I have a 2001 Trooper that was bought new, its been absolutely flawless with the only problem being a faulty drive-by-wire sensor after 4 years ($300 fix!!). Apart from that just routine maintenance (oil changes, belt replacement, tires, etc.). It does consume some oil, in my case 1qt every 2000miles which is normal for these engines. Good luck with your search, we are very happy with our Trooper (only negative is fuel consumpt. at ~14-15mpg in town, this adds up with current gas prices!).
  • I have a 1996 Trooper and the amp thats in it is blown or needs a new fuse cause my sound on my CD Player doesnt work everything else works on it but no sound. Does anybody know where the Amp. is at on the Trooper...
  • There's something that looks like that under the seat...
  • which seat. i have already looked there and i dont think i saw it,but i'll look again in daylight. And are you sure its in a 1996 model?
  • No, mine is a 1998. Sorry. I didn't notice that.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    As others have said Troopers are good vehicles, and very reasonable used car prices. The only thing about the 2002 models that I've noticed, is that they may NOT have the same features for the same model level of previous year models. I think this has to do with it being the final year built for USA. I think they were using up what assembly parts were available to build the 2002 models.
    For example if you are looking at a LS model, it might come with cloth vs. leather, or black outside mirrors vs. color matched to exterior paint color. The A/C controls may be from a late 90's version vs. the 00' forward version. You might get manual operated seats vs. electric, or other interior trim differences. Most of these things are just cosmetic, but if you're picky it matters. I don't know that they did anything unusual with the driveline on the 2002 model.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Well today I thought I'd run some Sea Foam through the intake to do some top cylinder lubrication. I read threads where some have used the PCV valve vacuum line to draw the liquid into the common chamber. Some have mentioned tons of smoke resulting, some say the vehicle dies, won't continue to run etc. Well in my case..........I sucked about 1/3 of a can of Sea Foam through the PCV vacuum line. It didn't take but a few seconds to consume it all, and there was NO black smoke out the tailpipe as a result!! I was surprised. I also tried to kill the engine by shoving the hose down to the bottom of the liquid.....nope it just sucked it up and kept on running!! This engine must be much cleaner than those talking of black smoke during this exercise. Anyway, I guess it must be due to a good grade of 'clean' fuel. I've been using Valero Premium for about a year now, and it must be doing a good job. I'm thinking of trying Shell gas, I've heard it has additives that improve fuel mileage, and keep your engine as well. We'll see......
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I shut the engine off as quickly as I could after the Sea Foam was gone. I let the engine sit for several hours before starting it up again. On 1st restart there was smoke for about 15 seconds after start. On next start after sitting for 30 minutes, about 30 seconds of smoke. On next start after sitting overnight, about 1 minute of smoke. Smoke continues to appear after each re-start so far. More later.........may have loosened up the rings more than is adviseable for an engine with 100K+ miles on it.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Well.......smoke at startup continued a couple of more times. The smoke was light blue, indicating oil burn. It gradually got to be less and less, and has now stopped altogether. WHEW, I was beginning to worry that I had done the wrong thing putting SF thru the intake like this. All appears to be will now. I'll monitor oil consumption and see if anything changes.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I left the Sea Foam in the crankcase of my 99' Trooper for about 700 miles, and about that same amount of miles for the 01'. The oil drained from the 99' afterward was terribly black, I've never seen it like that before. So it appears the Sea Foam was cleaning out the crankcase and block internals. I don't do the oil change on my 01'Troop, so I didn't see the oil that came out of it, probably about the same condition. I did use a can of Sea Foam in the gas tank as well, and think it was beneficial in cleaning the fuel injectors. No results to prove it really..........
  • matausmataus Posts: 43
    I have a 1990 Isuzu Trooper 5 speed manual. With a 2.8 liter v6.

    I was wondering if there is anyone out there that can tell me how to tweek my air/fuel mixture on my carborator. I can't seem to figure it out. I can't even seem to find it in the Chilltons manual. I am having a problem with ecceleration on my truck. I did do a complete tune-up on my truck. Ie: plugs/wires/cap/roter/o2 sensor/fuel filter/fuel system flush. All the above. When I hit the gas on my truck, it bogs down. This usually happens if I press on the gas to much. My truck will jerk on and off when I hit the gas. Almost like its getting and then not getting fuel. If there is anyone out there who can help, it would be greatly appreciated...

    Maddy :confuse:
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Hmm, try putting the old stuff on? Perhaps they gave you the wrong cap and rotor? I had that on my 74 Oldmobile.

  • i have a 94 trooper, with new plugs, new fuel filter, new timing belt, ive done extensive work on this to get it running great. my latest problem is that when i start it, it takes a while before it fires up, once fired up runs great. only when the vehicle sits overnight or for a couple hours does this problem occur. if im driving it and turn it off then back on, it fires right up. what could this be?- jes
  • and not a slight delay either. if it wasnt for my new alternator and titanium battery from advanced auto parts, it would be juiced out, because it takes so long for it to fire up. i also have oil accumulating in my spark plug chamber, and know that isuzu made a new set of wires to cure that problem but dont know what kind they are and where to purchase them. or if this is related to my delayed startup
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I believe you may be mistaking the Throttle Body Injector for a carburetor on your Trooper. I don't know for sure, but I don't think the 2.8 was available carbureted?
    One guys opinion.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    When you turn on the ignition, do you hear the fuel pump turn on for a couple seconds and then turn off? It is supposed to do that, and then after cranking a little while the oil pressure rise allows the pump to turn on again as long as there is oil pressure. So is your oil pressure good?? Another possibility that is suggested often is the fuel pressure regulator on the engine. It is supposed to allow fuel at preset pressure reach injectors. If if leaks down, the whole system has to repressurize, basically. Finally, I have read that there may be a check valve at the fuel tank (pump maybe) that is supposed to keep fuel from draining back to tank, but I have never seen it for myself.
    I would try jumpering the fuel pump at the relay first thing in the morning and pressurizing the fuel system before trying to start it to see if that cures the problem. If it does, then you can choose which components to check next. I am curious, though, about whether this condition just started or has been going on a while?
    Hope this helps, one guys opinion.
  • yes if i try pressurising the fuel system by switching it to on then waiting 5 seconds, then off(repeat 2 or 3 times) then turn the key all the way it fires up quite fast. but i thought that if a fuel pump is bad, it doesnt give any sign and it just goes out. also how do i jump the fuel pump like you say? this problem of delayed start has occured since i purchased the trooper in january this year. like i said prior, i have replaced alot of stuff that would have to do with start up, including starter, plugs, fuel filter, timing belt, and ive cleaned fuel injectors and used sea foam for my whole system. Basically i am about to just replace my fuel pump soon, my oil pressure is great. ive talked with most and if the regulator and the pump were bad, it wouldnt work at all. so im still not sure what to do- thanks
  • also does oil in my spark plug resevoir have anything to do with this problem. does anyone know more about the new plugs that isuzu made to prevent this as far as finding them
  • k2rmk2rm Posts: 205
    My "check TOD" comes on after driving several miles while in TOD. I pulled the code and it gave me a "code 31."

    If I stop and start the engine immediately after I get this code, it will not go into TOD, but the "check TOD" and wheel indicator lights will keep flashing.

    If I let the engine cool, I can shift into TOD without any problems, but again, after several miles of driving, I will get the flashing "check TOD" light again.

    Any ideas?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I don't think that the oil is part of this problem. There are two possible sources of oil that I know of. ONe is that the valve cover gasket is allowing oil to seep into the plug tube, which can be fixed by replacing the cover gasket. The alternative is if the tube itself which is pressed in the head is leaking, then the tube has to be replaced. I have never done the latter, but Isuzu has a bulletin out on it for 2nd gen troopers.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Everyone has an opinion, but in my experience, some pumps may be intermittent due to bad connections or grounds or due to internal wear and failures. A fuel pressure gage on the fuel tap at the tap by the firewall will tell you how much pressure is in the rail. If the pump is bad and not working, of course the trupr won't work at all. The pressure regulator is often at fault for poor idle characteristics and hard starting. That is why there is a bulletin out for that too. The regulator can be bad and still permit the engine to run, just not as well as it should.
    Identify the fuel relay on the RH fender well and remove it to allow you to put a jumper wire across the hot terminal to the fuel pump terminal. This will allow you to turn the pump on (with the ignition preferably) and pressurize the fuel system. If you are not handy and familiar with electrical troubleshooting, you may want some help to do this. Then you can be sure the pump is on when you try your initial start up and see how the engine starts. If it fires right up, and does so the next time you cold start, then your fuel system is losing pressure but your pump is fine. The gauge will tell you if you are losing pressure too fast by watching it after you shut the truck and fuel pump off after running it, and see if it falls. It will fall but it should do so very slowly, like over a several hour period. If it happens fairly fast, then the next place I would check would be the fuel regulator:first remove the vacuum line to it and see if fuel come out of it when the fuel pump is on.....if it does, it is bad and has to be replaced. If no fuel comes out, then it gets trickier, because you can change the regulator but it is a bit of work to do so and see if that makes a difference. It is about $50 bucks last time I did one. You also should replace the O rings at the same time. As I said before, if there is a check valve in the system at the tank that could be my last check. I just don't know if it exists but I suspect it does for safety reasons if none other. Maybe a search of this forum and others will help on that one. Good luck. One guys opinion.
  • well today i went throught all of that at a mechanics shop. the pressure is great. everything looks great. the spark plugs are sitting in a little oil, but i dont think thats the problem. we are thinking that there might be a leek in the tubes attached to the fuel pump area that is not allowing the full initial blast of fuel at first. my mechanic explained it as the tubes coming out of the fuel pump. so after an hour of him diagnosing everything we really couldnt pinpoint anything, he suggested giving it that half key turn, wait repeat method to allow fuel to fill and then start, for a couple days and if it fires up everytime, but not when immediatel started, then he wanted to take the fuel tank and insides apart to examine. sounds good but your mention about the regulator seems to really pinpoint my problem. not only is it a delayed start of 5-10 seconds but once started, it putts and chokes unless i give it gas, but once i do it runs great. still not sure, about to make a move but dont want it to be for nothing, what do you think, fuel regulator, or bleeding hose in fuel pump area? thanks-jes
  • also a side note. all the pressure readings were where they should be and with the engine turned off, the pressure remained 4 options. 1- new super spark plugs you had mentioned in a article. 2- fix valve cover gasket to stop oil buildup, which may cause not enought spark to fire gas up right away.. - 3 replace regulator. 4- most unwanted to do/ drop fuel tank, check pump and hoses for bleeding, which im not even sure how to do. what options do you think i tackle first. thanks-jes
  • matausmataus Posts: 43
    I do believe you're right. Do you know how I would ajust the fuel air mixture? :confuse:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    The fuel air mixture is not adjustable unless the ECM is reprogrammable. I think I would look for what might cause the fuel air mixture to be bad. Is the TBI body clean, is the air filter clean, Is the Mass air flow sensor (or equivalent working or at least clean (there are special cleaners for these, do not touch or use alternative) The injectors getting a good signal (there are checkers that plug in to the connector to verify signal to injector...when you remove air cleaner you can see TBI, the injectors have the wires going in to them). How about codes...not all codes keep the CEL illuminated all the time. The ECM stores codes for quite a while.
    Let us know what you find!
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Well.....I am no expert, and changing the fuel regulator requires some work, but it does do a couple things that could also help. You may wish to consider whether or not you have an intake gasket leak. Sometimes they will cause problems particularly with cold engine. If you change the regulator, you have to remove the upper intake....on DOHC that is upper and intermediate intake, just to get to regulator. We are talking several hours anyway. I am not sure on SOHC engine. It is only a little more work to remove the lower intake (injectors housed in it) and just replace all the intake gaskets.
    This is a lot of work, but easier (I think) than looking at the fuel pump. When you tested did you see any loss of pressure over 15 minutes or so? I generally look to the obvious first, and since Isuzu makes mention of the fuel regulator as a cause for slow starting, I would start there. I have often thought about putting a direct push on type switch on the dash that would allow you to energise the pump at will so cold starts are not a problem. Most car companies have a longer run time than Isuzu for the pump at start.??????
    I agree that if oil was deep in tube then you might get shorting of spark current, but not a little at bottom of tube. One guys opinion.
  • ok so say it is the fuel regulator that is causing this. then when im driving down the road or if ive had the vehicle running for any period of time longer than five minutes. if i turn the vehicle off and then start if back up, it fires right up, no matter how many times i do that. again only when the vehicle is sitting for a long period of time. does it have this delayed start up. would a faulty regulator still allow that
  • or better yet to figure this out. i am able to locate the regulator for 45 bucks at oreilys auto parts. what can i do to check to see if the regulator is shot. what signs does it show, except for the obvious ones that i am facing. or should i just start with tackling this project and go from there.
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