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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Bingo on the 3.8. Years ago I had a '75 model 3.8. They called it a 231 back then, also known as the 'stagger-fire'. It used a V8 distributor with two plug wires removed. The set up fired 4 cylinders, skipped one, fired two, skipped one.

    The timing chain stretched and I had to replace it, and the nylon cam gear, at 20K miles.

    Weird engine, but developed a lot of low RPM torque.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Okay, I pulled my books on that engine because I thought it used a chain, also. Well, guess what? It uses a chain from the crank to the FRONT cam gear. Then, there is a REAR cam gear that is helical cut and connects directly to the counterbalance shaft gear.

    So, the parts guy wasn't pulling your leg, it does use a conventional gear/chain/gear setup. And it also uses a gear/gear setup for the counterbalance. I knew something didn't seem right when I saw the gears and no chain. The 4.3 is based off the Chevy 5.7L engine, which uses a chain.

    Fairly easy repair, though. And if the oil has been maintained, the balance shaft gears are probably fine.

  • Sounds like a time consuming pain for the 4WD. For those of us without a shop or good place to make this repair (especially outside in February) can you throw out a repair cost range (high/low)?

    I've had my '01 Jimmy for a little over a year (2nd owner, 65k miles) and have had a couple small oil drips below the drivers side pretty much since I bought it. Recently, I noticed the spotting getting larger. From everything I've read and can see it looks like I'm having the same problem with the oil cooler lines.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    You might want to clean the area well and confirm the source of the leak. A shop told us the lines were leaking on our '99. Turned out to be a small leak in the pwr steering pump that was dripping on the lines below. At ~1oz a year I will forego the repair for now, but it does make a bit of a mess on the oil cooler lines such that it would appear they are the source.
  • I have an 02 Blazer, 4.3, auto trans, and ran through some water on a flooded road. The SES light flickered but went off and four days later it came back on and hasn't gone off. Do you think the same thing applies here? Bad pump? It's only been about four days since the light came back on.
    Thanks, Rick
  • Thank you for the update... my next question... Does the factory cam gear have nylon teeth? I have 182K miles... and I have used Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants and filter. Is it time to replace them?

    Take care, TJ
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Well, the illustrations I have show metal gears all around. You might still consider changing out the chain though as it has surely stretched over this amount of miles. The Buick 3.8L was notorious for streching the chain, to the point that a tensioner was used to take up the slack.

    I will defer to others with more timing chain experience on the 4.3, but 187K is a lot of miles for the chain, and the repair is not that difficult on a small block Chevy engine. It is a monster repair on the aforementioned 3.8L.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    Vehicle: 2001 Chevy Blazer LT, 4WD, 115,000 miles, V-6, Automatic. We went to my sister-in-laws in up state PA and they got snow. Went to put it in 4WD and the 4WD (4L) indicator light starts blinking. Checked 4H as well and it blinks as well. The front end would not lock in. A friend of the family said the blinking light indicated that there was a problem with the 4WD. Ok; is this something I can fix or is it something that is going to cost a ton money to fix???? I watched when my wife put in 4WD and the front wheels did not pull as they should. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.
  • when i got this truck the guy put an L shaped vacuum connector under the truck somewhere he slid under the driver side door the exhaust is under the passenger side of truck. its 2 weeks later and the truck is running like it has a vacuum leak. anyone have ideas? i have read about a oxygen sensors but i cant find anything
  • tuttotutto Posts: 2
    Hi guys i have a problem with my truck when i start it in the morning and let it run for 5-10 min as soon as i put it in drive it starts bogging rpms jumping up and down does it until the engine get warm any idea guys i would appreciate it thanks
  • Please Help. I am trying to find the 3rd o2 sensor on my 95 Chevy Blazer. I found the one right before and after the cat, but can't find the one on the manifold. Been told there isn't one, then there is and it is the same sensor as the other two or it isn't. Haven't got a straight answer from anyone. If anyone can help that would be great. A pic would be awesome. Thanks in advance.
  • depends on how many wires you have on the sensor, and if the sensor is still there take it off and take it to your parts store for them to match it up
  • Thanks for ur response. I will try that and let u know how it works.
  • Try O2 sensors or EGR valve.
  • I need to know where on the truck the 3rd sensor is before I can take it off and bring it to a parts store.
  • tolesontoleson Posts: 9
    Ok so a little history on the truck. I acquired it from a family member wrecked. I put over 800 in parts in it and did all the work myself. I also had to have some mechanicals done to it as fallows, new computer,EGR valve,4 wheel drive vacuum actuator and cable,intake hose, and some other stuff. The 4 wheel worked after replacing the actuator and the cable but the next day it no longer does. If the switch works it all the when i try to put it in 4hi the light on 4hi and 4lo just flash and go back into to hi. Other times nothing will happen when you push the button for 4hi. The same thing happens if i try to use 4lo. Could it just be the switch? I cant get my hands on a one to test my theory.... Any input would be great. Thanks guys :confuse:
  • Yes I am having the same problems with my 97 Jimmy. We had to have the motor relaced because of the previous owner. It ran great with a 01 motor in it. We put on about 2k miles and then it started to stutter from stop to go. The idle is erratic and it through up like six codes. Five of which were Bank 1 Sensor 1 o2 sensor was shot. SO I replaced it. It helped for about a week now it's back to the same crap. WITH the P0300 code.I don't know what to do...if I can't fix it I am SCREWED!!! Ironically I moved up here to go to school to be a mechanic.. HA :cry:
  • tolesontoleson Posts: 9
    Hey guys i'm looking for alot of input on this one. I have a 1995 chevy blazer and Out of the blue iv'e lost both low beam lights. To make this problem even more interesting is the fact that when I turn on the high beams... Even though they work the blow the number 16 fuse for the turn signals. This truck has been a great truck I just hope this isn't anything major. I think it has to be something stupid. I just haven't found anything yet. PLEASE HELP! :sick: :confuse:
  • tjh5479tjh5479 Posts: 6
    Is the fuse for the headlights blown or does it keep blowing when you replace it?? If so, I hate to state the obvious which you probably already know, but most likely it is a short, and where that short is, is very hard to find unless you have the right tools. I am going to guess that maybe one of the wires leading up to the headlights may have been rubbing up agains something and is now bare. If the wires for the turn signals are bare as well, they may be touching causing a short. My Suggestion would be too read up about finding shorts, or bring it to someone who knows. Another thing you might try is changing the wiring harness for the headlights. If they are corroded that might do it too. Good luck.
  • tolesontoleson Posts: 9
    I just changed both headlights and the low beams mush have just been blown. And when i did that the signal lights came back. I thought this was interesting so i took it to my uncle and he said o yea that makes sense it is back feed. So I was just like sure and adjusted my headlights and went on with my life.

    Seems kind of weird to me. Must be chevy hired some people from ford to lay out the electrical!!

    Thank you for your input and happy driving!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    If when one of the low beams went out, the support for the filament shorted against the other filament support, I could see you having a low resistance short, blowing the fuse. The filament itself has some resistance, the support wires do not.

    I had a car where both low beams failed at the same time. I thought it was odd, and asked a trusted mechanic. Being a logical southern boy, he just looked at me and answered, "Why shouldn't they both go at the same time? They was put in at the same time, wasn't they?"

    Kind of hard to argue with that logic.
  • I just had my ignition switch replaced to get rid of the shift solenoid problem. The transmission is newly rebuilt. The problem comes after about 20 mins of driving it goes back into safe mode. The shop says that there is no problem since they do not drive it far enough for the problem to occur. Since the ignition switch is not the problem i am wondering what else it could be. The tranny works fine for those 20 mins.
  • What was the problem?
  • enzaneenzane Posts: 1
    i have a 1992 chevy blazer just bought it the people i got it from said they changed the fuel filter and fuel pump but when i drive the vehicle i studders when i drive like its not getting fuel to the engine sometimes it drives fine when it does mess up if i put it in neutral then shut truck off then start and drive again it works for a little while what doe you think it could be
  • singramsingram Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 2 door Chevy blazer and the rear hatch will not open. When you press the release button I can hear a noise like it wants to open but nothing happens. I was hoping someone would be able to give me some advice on what to troubleshoot since I am in the middle of moving and can not afford to take it to the dealer at this time. It would also make my move a lot easier if I could get that hatch open. Thanks.
  • Have you tried pushing to close it and re-opening it several times? And cycling the ignition once between try's? I had a similar problem with a different vehicle and all that I can think of is that it was a little stuck from non-use. Once I got it to work, it was fine.
    You could always call a dealer and ask.
  • tjh5479tjh5479 Posts: 6
    Is it an electric rear hatch? I had the samething happen because I backed into something but mine was electric. When I pressed the button, I could hear the motor moving, but didn't open. I took the inside panel off the gate and found that I had bent a small arm that the motor moves so it was not hitting the latch. I bent it back and it worked fine. Good luck.
  • tjh5479tjh5479 Posts: 6
    Cheap part, try replacing the fuel pump relay or cleaning the contacts? Is your check engine light on?
  • Hi... I attempted to respond earlier in the week... but this site was down. I had the same situation with my 96. There is a small lever, made out of plastic, that connects the servo to the actual release mechanism. You can not purchase just the plastic part (I have great digital photos of this part). You have two options... you can fix the part... using a paper clip, or you can go to the salvage yard... and look for one. It is easy to fix or replace... once you get the cover off the door. Opening the door is not so easy... but there is a place under the carpet near the latch that you have access to the lever. Use a screwdriver to trip the lever.

    I hope this helps... TJ
  • alesi64alesi64 Posts: 1

    I just fixed a friends 99 blazer that sounds like it had the same problem. Old fuel pump died and she had someone install a new pump and also a new filter. Then it began to run/studder like yours.

    It took me a while to figure out but here was the fix for her car (runs great now). The new filter that she had installed was the wrong one. Looks identical to the correct filter but either Autozone or the mechanic messed up. the in flow direction and outflow was reversed on the new filter. I found the correct filter, replaced it, and now the car runs fine.

    Crazy, but check your filter and make sure the outflow (should be stamped on the metal "OUT" is pointing toward the engine. I saw the old/incorrect filter and the new filter side by side and they look identical except the flow direction "OUT" was reversed. I think GM may have changed the guts inside the filter and may have a one way valve in the filter that is starving the engine if the wrong one is used.

    Hope that helps.

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