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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • jefforybjefforyb Posts: 2
    Hey -
    I have tried everything to open my hatchback;
    I tried the push button inside the car;
    I tried opening it with the key outside the car,
    and I even tried manually to open it but to no
    It just won't open; I even checked the fuses.
    What to do; do anybody know?
    --jefforyb-- :cry:
  • Yes the engine light is on.
  • jefforybjefforyb Posts: 2
    No. There are no lights on the dashboard at all.
    The only lights that comes on are the ones when
    I start the engine :cry: .
  • jbrown13jbrown13 Posts: 1
    just bought my 2001 blazer and love it so far except for the pesky severice engine light that came on the second day. the code is po410 something about the secondary air injection system fault has anyone had this problem and if so how do i fix it thanks for the info
  • pawlakjlpawlakjl Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy - It has been in the shop all winter for problems with the blower not changing to defrost or the floor properly. I can get hot air to blow at my face until I am sunburnt but I can not get it to change to any other setting. I can not seem to find anyone to figure out what hte problem is. One mechanic said it was the vaccum hose and he replaced it said it was fixed BUT it was NOT. I really can't afford to take it to the Dealer. You know I would pay a lot of money and I don't want to spend that kind of money on an older vehicle. Please any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, I smell antifreeze in the car when the blower is going. I understand the heater core needs to be replaced. Is it really a difficult job or is it just time consuming since the dash has to come out. Also what about a manifold intake gasket? Hard job or what?
  • frankkfffrankkff Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to check the fluid in the rear differential of a 2001 Chev Blazer. I was attempting to drain the grease and replace with synthetic grease but I can not see either drain plug or fill plug.
    Anyone have advice?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Generally, you pull the rear plate and clean out the differential. Put on a fresh gasket and bolt it back up. The add fluid until the level is even with the bottom of the one hole on the side and you are done.

    The plug is just above midline of the differential, on the passengers side.

    You can get a suction draw and get the fluid out that way, but you won't get all the fluid, and you won't get the small amount of metal out of the bottom of the diff.

  • Your blower issue should have been an easy fix... even for a dealership... and they would have had the right part. Sometimes it is best to go to the dealership... they have had experience with these issues... yes you might pay more... but better in the long run. The motor... electrical... that drives the diverter door... up for defrost... down for floor heat... is either dead... or the switch is messed up... or there could be a simple hardware issue... like a broken lever attached to the electric motor and the door. See if you can hear something moving... near the center hump... and on the driver side... when you turn the selection knob. If you hear something... then chances are the motor is working... but the diverter door is not moving. Most likely... the issue is with the control switch... I believe the motor functions very well.

    I hope this helps... TJ
  • jakedog1jakedog1 Posts: 1
    Have a ruptured fuel line I'm trying to replace....Is there a trick to the fittings on the fuel lines or is a specialty tool required?
    Also, what is the black box at the rear drivers side that two fuel lines run into? I know its not the pump.

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Some of the fuel line connections require a special tool. Your auto parts store may have one that they loan out.

    The little box at the back is the evaporative emissions charcoal canister. Filters the fumes from the tank and fuel injection.
  • Has anyone experienced a very hard (jammed) shift lever on the column? If so... do you know what caused it? The shifter cable somehow became kinked. It happened to me after the transmission shop replaced the selector shaft seal on the transmission.

    Thank you,

  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    Ok this is a multiple question question. What would make the lights in my 2001 Blazer go out? Talking about the lights for the radio, the control buttons, etc. Pretty much the lights for the center dash console. Not all of them mind you. They seem to be going out a little at a time. Part two is can they be replaced??? I would love any help . . . . .
  • pilot1122pilot1122 Posts: 2
    98 Jimmy 4.3 Vortec 4 WD. Vibration appears to be comming from the rear end at 30 mph, then dissappears above that speed. At slow speeds up to 30 mph, a whirring sound is heard from an undetermined direction. At speeds nearing 60 mph, a rear vibration is felt again.

    Would this be the beginning signs of universal joint failure or rear differential failure? any takers??

    pilot 1122
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    "Would this be the beginning signs of universal joint failure or rear differential failure? "

    Very possibly. The whirring at low speed plus the vibration would certainly point in that direction. Get it checked out, because you really, REALLY don't want the joint to let go while driving. If it is the rear one, you just bang up the underside until you get stopped. If the front one, lot's of stuff is going to get messed up.

    Just pull the driveshaft and rotate the u-joints by hand. If they are to the point of vibration, it should be easy to find. If you find a bad one, change them both. After all, they have the same amount of miles on them, and were installed at the same time. So if one is bad, the other won't be far behind.
  • a90myersa90myers Posts: 9
    I have a 96 S-10 Blazer. The nise just started. I had the oil changed and had some particles in the oil. When the Blazer is strted it is quiet but starts tapping whewn the engine gets hot. I put 5w-30 when I had the oil change. I don't have alot of money . Do I need a new engine or rebuild?? What is this going to cost.? The car has 154000 other wise a great ride. HELP
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    A tap could be a lot of things. You need to get someone to locate it for you. A rod knock would be *very* apparent. That's a very sharp, very loud noise. Tippity tapping could be a collapsed valve lifter or a worn camshaft. The fact that it starts when hot rather than cold suggests to me a lifter noise.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    5W30 is a bit lightweight for an engine with that many miles, especially if you are in a hot climate. I have always gone with 10W30 with good results.

    If on a tight budget, you can get a 5 quart jug of Castrol GTX 10W30 for less than $12 at WalMart. Excellent oil, very good price.

    I agree with shifty, it sounds like a lifter leaking down.
  • I have a 96 Blazer too... 190K miles... very pleased with the service it provides me. I had the same thing happen to me with my 1981 Pontiac Grand Prix with a Chevy V8... its a transplant... just happened one morning when I got in and started it up... once warmed up... lifter noise... which I isolated to number 8 cylinder. Pulled valve cover... everthing looked good. Compression test... good. I took it out.. ran it on the Highway... and it worked itself out... Finale conclusion... a lifter may have gotten an air bubble somehow... or a piece of debris. Prior to this happening... the plug wire came unsnaped off the spark plug... not all the way off the plug... but I was getting a backfire every once in a while. This went on for two weeks... after the third backfire... I made a complete inspection... and found the loose wire. If your budget permits... upgrade your ignition system to a brass contact cap and rotor... well worth the money. Note: I use AmsOil 10w-40 full synthetic in both my vehicles... I have been using this oil since 1978... hey... I live in Florida. I hope this helps.

    Take care,

  • psychropodpsychropod Posts: 4
    I'm in here because the server hosting crashed. This was my one-stop-shop for all my Blazer questions. I can comfortably say it has been turning me into a Blazer expert. LOL

    The second thing I want to say is that you should purchase a service manual (e.g. Haynes, Chiltons) specific to your vehicle. They cost ~$15 and are a worthwhile investment. They answer a lot of these questions. For those questions I still can't find the answers to, I post on the Web. Haynes actually includes a list of the trouble codes with the answer next to it. You're lucky, because I happen to have my Haynes manual right in front of me. ;-)

    Now, to answer your question: There is no PO410 code. There is also no such thing as an air injection system. There is a FUEL injection system, and there is an AIR INTAKE that funnels air into the engine to promote combustion. I suspect what you really meant was:

    PO401: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system flow insufficient.

    This most likely means you need to replace the EGR valve. It's an emissions device. It appears to be an easy repair, and a service manual will tell you how to do it. Hope this helps.
  • psychropodpsychropod Posts: 4
    I am trying to drop my gas tank to replace the fuel pump. 1st i am having problems draining tank by siphon from gas fill tube. There is a stopper of some sort blocking my hose. Next I am wondering how to get to gas lines to disconnect. I assume thay are on the top of the tank. Do I drop tank and then disconnect?

    The answer is yes. I ran into the same problem three days ago. This really sucked, since I had just filled the tank the same day my pump failed. LOL

    But don't worry. Just be sure that when you disconnect the tank, you lower it slowly, using a block of wood and a jack. This prevents the extra-heavy tank from falling and spilling gas all over the place. You can then support the tank on cinder blocks and pour the gas out into another container after it's off the truck. That's what we did. Another option is to siphon it after removing the fuel filler hose, but IMO the first method is faster and easier.

    Oh yeah...regarding the second question. We had to cut the fuel filler and recirc hoses. It was the only way. A sharp razor will get it off in seconds. IMPORTANT: They must be replaced by FUEL hoses of the same rating, NOT any other type of hose. This is because fuel eats through rubber, unless it is made out of a special material. We went to four different parts stores, and nobody had the right one. We had to go to the dealer and spend more money, but it's worth it!

    Good luck!
  • psychropodpsychropod Posts: 4
    Ok this is a multiple question question. What would make the lights in my 2001 Blazer go out? Talking about the lights for the radio, the control buttons, etc. Pretty much the lights for the center dash console. Not all of them mind you. They seem to be going out a little at a time. Part two is can they be replaced??? I would love any help . . . . .

    Your most likely culprit is the ignition switch, as it controls multiple things on the dash. This is a common problem on these trucks. If you have a service manual, you can likely do it yourself. If not, your best bet is to take it to a GM dealer. You'll pay a little more money, but it will probably be done right.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Posts: 28
    Hey all.
    Just wanted to inform you all on a bit of news I just learned of this week. At first I read and heard that Chevy was in no way getting rid of the Blazer/Trailblazer name plate in favor of a cross-over like the Acadia/Outlook/Enclave. Because they said tht Chevy would loose its [non-permissible content removed], on the deal. Namly because the Blazer family is a very big part of their reveneue.
    Well, sadly, they just reversed that decision. This is the last year for this grand family. GM decided it needed 4 of these POS cross overs. I for one think that Chevy
    needs to strike out and leave GM. ell chevy could and would prospire. Because they are the one company that has kept GM alive for years. Sorry, Ill get off my soapbox now!!!
    We as Chevy Blazer owners need to do what ever possible, to keep ours running and let GM keep seeing them. So, the best name plate to Chevy wont be forgotten!!!!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    A good safety item is to drive a piece of rebar into the ground near the vehicle. Take a set of jumper cables and clamp one pos and one neg to the rebar. Then connect the other pos to the frame of the vehicle, and the other neg to the gas tank. Disconnect the battery, and you will have eliminated the possibility of a static charge building up. You don't want any sparkies when you are pulling a fuel tank. It's the fumes that will blow if there is a spark in the area.

    Also, if using a drop light, be sure to keep it away from the tank. A Ford mechanic in my home town had done everything right before pulling a Lincoln fuel tank, only to have his drop light fall against the tank, break the bulb, and ignite. He was in his 30's.
  • 00jimmy00jimmy Posts: 5
    We changed the fuel pump several times on one of our Jimmys, thinking they were going bad. Turned out the problem was a bad connection in the plug on the pump, which sits on top of the tank. You can usually reach the plug if you drop the spare tire. It is worth checking to see if your problem is there....
  • trail1trail1 Posts: 1
    It takes me forever to get back into 2 Wheel Drive after being in 4 Wheel Drive. I keep pushing the 2WD button and restarting the vehicle, and finally it goes back into 2WD. What is causing the problem and is this an expensive repair? Help
  • danvossendanvossen Posts: 3
    We have also had on- going trouble with the 2/4 wheel drive unit of our 2000 Blazer. It would get stuck in one or the other and you could not change it. The problem was diagnosed as corroded wires and connections in the control module located behind the passenger side kick panel inside the truck. This happened in about 2003 (after warranty had expired) and that unit was replaced.To the tune of about $500.00. The dealer suspected that water leaking into this area had caused the damage. They recommended a leak test which was performed but were not able to find where the water was getting in.They said it would probably happen again. It did, about three years later. This time we had our local mechanic look at it and he was able to clean up the wires and connection and apply dielectric grease to it. It is a temporary repair but effective.. That control box will also emit a re-occurring clicking sound for no reason ( turn signal sound )

  • a90myersa90myers Posts: 9
    I talked to a friend and they told me to drain1/2 to 1 quart of oil out of the engine then put tranny fluid in. Let the blazer run-idle for 20-30 minutes. Drain it , addd 30 weight oil and "Lucas" oil treatment and that should quiet the noise. Should I try this before going inot the shop for flywheel replacement???
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Well, that is a way to flush a lifter, but I am assuming the flywheel is another issue?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    I did that motor flush several times in old cars I purchased to restore. However, I used kerosene and motor oil rather than transmission fluid and motor oil. After I poured the mix in the engines, I drove the cars for about 30 miles no faster than 40 MPH and then drained the oil/kerosene mix and replace it with regular engine oil. It took two times to quiet the lifters in two 1962 Pontiacs. I later used a 50-50 mix of Shaler Risolone and motor oil rather than kerosene and motor oil in two 1963 Pontiacs and it worked much better after about 100 miles of slow driving. On both occasions the engine had more performance afterwards because the lifters were free and were functioning properly which allowed correct valve action.
  • a90myersa90myers Posts: 9
    Put the tranny fluid in blazer and ran it for about 1/2 hour. Changed the oil put 30weight and lucas in. Tapping just the same.. I guess it is the flywheel,
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