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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    This could be a lot of things. I think the only way to know is to pull the distributor. Some of the older vehicles, 1996-1998, had a soft dist. drive gear at the bottom, so there could easily be other bearing/bushing wear issues.

    If you do this, be sure to mark all the relative positions. Also may require going through the timing set procedure for the engine computer, especially if you have to replace any parts.
  • beaches2beaches2 Posts: 1
    I have a 99 jimmy, it would not start and the battery light was alway on, so me being a women and my husband deployed, I went and bought a new battery, it starts, but the battery light is still on, and it seems to be draining the battery slowly. Any ideas on how to fix this, or whats wron?
  • hewybohewybo Posts: 10
    most likely, it's your alternator - you could go to a reputable auto parts store (AutoZone, etc.), and they will check it for you for free.....good luck, and our thanks and prayers to you and your husband.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited April 2010
    The charge indicator light will be illuminated if the charging voltage is too high or too low. . Make certain the intergral voltage regulator terminal output wire is fully connected to the terminal that is located in the side of the alternator. The alternator is not serviceable and no periodic maintenance is required. The alternator should never be disassembled for any reason.

    However, over a period of time, the intergral regulator voltage output Weather-Pak terminal connector located in the side of the alternator can become loose and can illuminate the charge indicator light, even if the voltage output is only slightly low. The charge indicator light has no dim or bright stage to show the rate of charge or discharge. The charge indicator light is either fully lit or it is off. If the output voltage terminal Weather-Pak connector is loose or damaged, it can be blown off by the force of air from the radiator cooling fan, especially after driving at higher speed. You should NEVER operate the alternator with the output terminal disconnected. The voltage output Weather-Pak connector has a black rubber boot to protect the connection . You can request that a service station attendant or a parts store employee check the alternator voltage regulator out put terminal connector to see if the connector has become loose. If it is loose or disconnected, it can be pushed back on the alternator connection. If the connector was loose, the GM Weather-Pak alternator voltage output connection should be checked often or the Weather-Pak connector replaced.

    That happened to my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4 because the plastic locking tab on the GM Weather-Pak connector was sabotaged by someone and it would not lock onto the alternator voltage output terminal connection.. My S10 Blazer has a digital instrument panel with no indicator light. When the connector came loose, the battery charge rate indicated less than 10 volts. (I found that the air flow from the radiator would blow the Weather-Pak connection apart every time I got up to freeway speeds....... or higher. That led me to the problem and I replaced the plastic GM Weather-Pak terminal connector but only after I got tired of pushing it back on the alternator voltage output terminal.

    Replacing a GM Weather-Pak connector is not a job for a novice because it takes patience and special tools. A dealership could replace the Weather-Pak connector for about 0.5 hour flat rate labor cost. Be advised, you should NEVER lubricate GM Weather-Pak connectors with WD-40 because the "secret sauce" in that product will attack and ruin GM Weather-Pak seals. The main ingredient in that product is mineral spirits which will ruin the silicone Weather-Pak connector seals. Always use a dielectric silicone lubricant in a tube but on the seals only and not on the conductors. The term di-electric means "insulator" or non-conductor and using di-electic grease can reduce full electrical connection. . .

    I hope this tip saved you about $200 for a rebuilt alternator.
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    I really sounds like the alternator is not charging for some reason. It could be the Alternator, a connection, or the belt may be slipping. The larger chain auto parts stores (Advance, Autozone, Checker) will test both the battery and alternator for you. Call them first and ask if they offer the service. If the alternator is not charging, the battery WILL slowly drain down due to the electrical usage of the car during normal operation. If the alternator needs to be replaced, ask the auto parts store to recommend a shop. They will know who does honest work. Do not take it to a dealer unless there is no other choice. Even a chain auto repair shop (Firestone, Midas, etc. ) would be better than the dealer, but I would prefer a locally owned independent garage, since they have to do have a good reputation to stay in business.

    The previous battery may have been OK, just low due to the bad alternator or connection, but don't panic over that. A really good battery is always good to have
    Hoe this helps. If you need anything further, just post again. .
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    edited April 2010
    For some good news, if the alternator is bad and needs replacing, the job is very simple and quick (as in low labor cost).

    With your husband deployed, and in support of our troops, if you were within 100 miles of central Texas I would come do the job myself, no charge. My nephew is currently in Iraq in special forces.

    Tell us your general area and I will challenge my online associates to step up.

  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    If you determine it is in fact the alternator that is at fault and not the voltage output wire connector, the cost of the alternator alone will be from $80 to $184 plus tax, depending on where it is purchased. Be advised, alternators seldom fail and they will usually last for the life of the car.That excludes Ford alternators which fail regularily.

    The average flat rate labor cost in Texas is $65 per hour at an independent garages and $90 per hour at Chevrolet deaerships.. The flat rate time will only be applied to 1/2 hour labor no matter who does the work and how long it actually takes. That is in addition to the cost of the alternator. A new car dealership will charge from $150 to $184 for a rebuilt 105 amp alternator whereas a independent garage may charge as little as $80 for a rebuilt 105 amp alternaotror, plus the applicable 1/2 hour labor cost and sales tax. Total cost of parts and labor is :
    Dealerships: $229.
    Independent garages ...$115
    You will get a 90 day to a one year day gauarantee if a professional car repair facility does the work and that is worth something.

    New car dealerships discourage non-warranty work by charging higher labor and parts costs. That is because a dealership has all the work they can handle just doing warranty work on the cars they have already sold and warranty work takes priority over non-warranty work. Avoid a new car dealership,even if they give you all the free coffee you can drink or a loaner car to use.
  • i'm having trouble finding the starter, i just hear clicking when i turn the ignition, how can i check if the starter is defective?
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    This could be a lot of things, least likely is the starter. Most likely is a low battery or poor connection.

    With the headlights on, turn the key to start. If the lights go out, low/bad battery, or poor connection. First, clean battery cable connections, be sure connections are tight after cleaning. Also, many parts stores (Autozone, Advance, Checker, etc) will test the battery. Or, try jumping with another battery in a running car. If it still just clicks, may be bad starter solenoid.

    With the headlights on, turn the key to start. If the lights stay on, is probably bad solenoid. Good news, parts are cheap, bad news is hard to get to, have to remove the starter to change the solenoid.

    Once the starter is out, parts store will test solenoid and starter.

    What year is your Blazer?
  • mudluvermudluver Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Blazers when I give it gas to go its fine until I have to increase speed. Its fine to just role away but trying to get on the high way or when I need it to get up and go it bogs out. Any ideas to what it could be please let me know. I've change spark plugs, wires, MAF, Fuel pump, full lines, expected on the engine that is the only fuel line I haven't checked. :sick: :confuse: :cry: :( :lemon:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
  • jimmyhaterjimmyhater Posts: 13
    I had a 96 Jimmy with the same problem. It ended up being a corroded 02 Sensor connector. I was able to clean out the harness connector and replaced the 02 Sensor. The computer never came up with a trouble code.
  • is there anyway for a simple person like me to erase the computer codes.....96 jimmy 4.3

    cap and rotor was bad....replaced but figure they may have caused computer to alter fuel etc etc etc ?????
  • rdevansiirdevansii Posts: 3
    I have a 95 Chevrolet Blazer that had a similar situation. It was the EGR valve. Its located in the front of the engine. If it gets plugged, it will seriously bog the engine down. Most EGR valves don't go bad, just get build up. So what you can do is take it off, use WD-40 and spray in the valve. Clean the valve with a toothbrush. What you are cleaning is corrosion build up. I now check it once a year, and its keeping my Blazer run very efficient. Its a very easy fix. Be sure to buy a new gasket, which will only cost at most a dollar.
  • grobygroby Posts: 2
    I have the same problem in my 95 Jimmy. Tried everything you have and also have changed and cleaned out my EGR Valve. I finnally took it to a dealer and they couldn't figure it out. If you do please inform me if you do something different.
  • rdevansiirdevansii Posts: 3
    Have you changed your PCV valve? Could be stuck. What I have noticed about the 95 is all the sensors. Just one of them can screw it all up. Really quick question on your EGR Valve. What did you use to clean it? If it doesn't get cleaned fully, it will only open partial. I had it happen so then I spent some good time cleaning the gunk out and making sure the Valve had 100% opening. But, EGR Valves can fail too. Not common, but we own the 95 blazer........S&?t Happens
  • drewbie1drewbie1 Posts: 1
    My jimmy has been running fine untill recently. I think that there maybe something wrong with my alternator but I am unsure. When I am starting my jimmy it does not want to start and most of the dashboard lights do not want to come on. I try to start it again and it will hesitate starting, then it will start. The lights on the dashboard will then all come on and the gauges will start working after the dinging noise stops. I am also having issues with the four wheel drive system. It also was working untill recently. I try to engage the four wheel drive but it will not come on. Is this due to the alternator?
  • rdevansiirdevansii Posts: 3
    Well I would take your truck in and have the battery and/or alternator checked. Most of the time its free at any battery facility. They could let you know within minutes if anyone of those are bad. For your 4 wheel drive, its hard to say. I would try to start with the first problem. With your 4 wheel drive being an all electrical engagement, begin with the simple first.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Posts: 28
    I need some help figuring out how to fix a few problems with my Blazer> It's a 2000 LS 4x4 4.3.
    1) first problem is that the washer fluid stopped spraying on the front, it does work on the rear. You can't hear anything when you try it for the front.

    2) second problem is either the bushings or the pin in the top hinge of the driver's door is wore out because it sags and tries to hang up on the striker plate. How is this replaced?

    3) andlastly how do you replace the hood latch cable? Mine is so bad that you about have to force the hood to open it. :confuse:

    Thanks for your help in advance,
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Hinge pin kits are available at most autoparts stores. You support the door, knock out the old pin, replace the bushings and put the new pin in. I would advise to rent, borrow, or buy the door spring compression tool. Small spring, very very strong.

    Washer pump motor. get a meter and check for voltage at the pump when you push the washer switch. If voltage and no motor movement, replace the motor. No voltage, and you probably have a bad multifunction switch on the column. Check your fuses, too.

    Hood latch cable comes as an assembly and you replace the cable and housing both. Double check on that one, but I am not sure you can get the cable by itself.
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    The windshield washer pumps are in the reservoir. The reservoir is pretty easy to remove. When mine quit pumping, I took it apart, cleaned the pump and connections and put it back together. Worked! You can test the pump with it out of the reservoir. I cut a gallon milk jug in half, and filled it with water to see if it would pump. It may also just need to be primed, which can be done the same way with the cut down milk jug. The pump is about $16 from I've used them for several projects, good parts, good prices, good service. I have no interest in the company, just a satisfied customer.

    I have also had the rear washer quit, which turned out to be a hose that had come loose. It could also be the problem with your front washers. Fixing the rear hose involved undoing the torx bolt that holds the pull-down strap, then popping the interior panel loose, re-attach the hose, and put it back together.

    Rock Auto also has the door hinge pin kit for less than $4. A locally owned body shop will usually provide the parts and install them for a pretty reasonable price, which is my recommendation, since getting the old ones out can be a pain the first time you do it.

    While you're there, ask them to check out the hood latch release. Might just be lube or adjustment. If you need parts, Rockauto has the latch assembly for $26, but I don't see the cable on their catalog.

    Good luck. Any questions, post again.
  • hewybohewybo Posts: 10
    1st -i think my blend door actuator is bad -for the last few days, the a/c blows only through defrost vent and foot vents regardless of selector position. do i really have to remove the dash to replace the actuator? cannot see anything with glove box removed (as in later model discussions)

    2nd -and :mad: most important (til winter!!!)- it keeps frying cig lighter elements. new socket (three times), and 5 or 6 elements. works for first few pushes, then blows fuse. ???????????????
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Are you sure you don't have an underhood vacuum leak? There is a vacuum line that comes off the manifold and goes over near the brake booster. It provides vacuum for the controls on the AC. Common problem is for the hose to dry rot and collapse. The engine will still run okay, because you don't have a vacuum "leak", but the AC controls will go weird because they have no vacuum.

    I would sure check for that before tearing into the dash. The vacuum line repair takes maybe five minutes and will cost a couple of bucks for new lines.
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    94 and 95 Blazers are a little different from the 96 and later. These are on what is basically the 93 chassis with the new body style. 9t6 and later are on a different chassis with different electrics and computers.

    In either case the default (no vacuum) position for the blend door is to blow air through the defrost and floor (heater) outlets. You may notice this happening while driving up a long hill with a load or at high altitude. The available vacuum under these conditions is not enough to keep the door at the dash vents (A/C).

    This could easily be a broken or disconnected vacuum hose. It may also be a defective selector. These are pretty easy to remove from the dash. While it is out, you can see if there is vacuum coming into the selector and going out the various ports as the selector is moved.

    If the actuator has to be replaced, then yes the only way is to remove all the dash stuff in the way.
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Posts: 30
    edited July 2010
    I have a 2002 Blazer. Also have a friend with a 1996 Jimmy with the same problem.
    I was told that the sensors for the gas gauge are on the fuel pump but they've replaced the fuel pump 3 times I didn't ask if the pumps were new or used.

    I've asked about this a couple times before, but now that I know that the problem is not unique, I would like to hear some explanations.

    They mentioned something about a vent tube going into the gas tank. Does anyone know about that. Is there a chance that could be a problem.

    I did get a code that suggested something in the evap system. I changed the gas cap and when the codes came back, the purge valve (the new one was less than half the weight of the old one if that makes any difference, but I had to take the hose end that has the spring off the old one because the one they gave me had a different hose/spring inlet).

    Please PM me if you have any info about this problem - it seems that if anyone has ever posted anything, I never got the message.

  • hewybohewybo Posts: 10
    you and johnss10 are great! saved me countless hours and potential unnecessary expense - the vacuum line was indeed off. Cannot thank you guys enough!!!! (p.s -ya dint fix my lighter, tho............Tee and Hee) i have bics, anyhoo. thanks again!!!
  • When I posted this it did have an explanation to what the problem is.

    2002 Blazer V-6, 4WD, auto. The gas gauge floats back and forth. Been doing that since a few months after I bought it 2 years ago. Started getting a double code about 8 months ago, (evap code, and I don't have the code here, but I think it was P0049 that suggested evap system).

    I have a friend with a 1998 (or 96) that has the same problem. They've replaced the fuel pump 3 times but it still happens

    I've replaced the gas cap and the purge valve but the codes keep coming back.

    If it's happened to 2 vehicles, it's probably happened to more. Does anyone have experience with this problem?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Man, I wish I had a nickel for everyone who has this problem. It is common to GM trucks, Blazers, Jimmys, Tahoe, and Yukon for several years ranging from around '96 to '03 or '04, at least.

    Here's the deal: The sending unit is not connected directly to the gauge, it goes through the Body Control Module (BCM). There is a bug in the software that "averages" the signal from the sending unit. For one thing, it only averages when in drive. Reverse will get you anything from half full to empty. If you back out of a parking space, and the fuel gauge goes nuts, just pull forward and the first time you need to slow down or stop, shift to neutral and watch what happens with the gauge. It will swing back up. Put the car back in gear and all is normal again.

    Note that I have only seen this occur with an auto, but I would bet money there are ways it does it with a manual, too.

    There is nothing you can do to fix it. Sometime around 2004 GM corrected the software and the problem disappeared. I know this because my '99, '00, '02 all three did it, my '04 did not.

  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Posts: 28
    Too bad that GM didn't think about making a recall for this. But then thats GM for you. With all the problems we all have that everyone has, it really makes you stop and think if GM really cares about what they build and sale.
    Actually mine does this too, all though not as bad as that, it doesn't read right that i know.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Not a safety issue. I fought this one for over a year to no avail. 2000 GMC Sierra SLT with a $32K sticker (in 2000, mind you) and got a total run around. Which is one reason I no longer buy GM. Got tired of dumb-[non-permissible content removed] answers and runaround. :mad:
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