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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

17172747677119

Comments

  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    did not test to ground only across terminals on fuse panel and continuity on breakers (fuses) these are resetable fuses... nothing on my meter
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    yes it is a working meter :shades:
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Did you test on volts DC at the fuse slots to see if power to the fuse the way I stated above. Usually +12.6v gets into the door but the ground can be bad thats why I asked to make sure you actually checked that and not just the fuse itself. Then its into the door itself for tests from there (or not).
  • dpoirier54dpoirier54 Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I was just wondering if your blazer solution is still working.
    I have a 2000 blazer that stops for no apparent reason. I've replaced oxygen sensors and fuel pump. It will run fine for a week or so and then it just stops. It doesn't seem to matter whether I'm at a light or driving down the highway. I have seen my security light go on sometimes but most of the time it's off. After about 10 minutes the blazer starts just as if nothing was wrong.
    Hope you can help.
    Thanks,
    Dick
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    did not test the fuse panel to a ground such as a door or frame yes these are the right slots yes the breakers are good..even checked for voltage with the door closed but did i mention the the problem is with both doors? thank you for being patient with me am familliar with d.c. voltage should'nt i have voltage across both terminals for a single fuse where the one fuse goes? am i making any sense to you :) at the fuse panel??all the other circuits are working fine wipers horn heater just cant roll down the windows and well..am not too worried bout the lock thing as the drivers side switch quit locking the passenger side door some years ago.j
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    the way i understand it the power comes from the battery through the fuse box to the switch then to the relay and then to the window motor and to ground..if the plug for some reason came loose on one of the swithces came loose would that have a bearing on this..dont wanna rip the door panel off just yet ( i have before to replace a switch some time ago).. but like i said there is no juice at the fuse panel i will try a different ground and let you know thanx
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Well, I did not have this problem yet, but GM bulletin# 01-08-56-001A June 01 for 98-01 Blazers states:

    Subject: Security lamp illuminated on the IP, engine stalls, no start, DTC B2960

    This is the due to incorrect Passlock sensor voltage (intermittent) received by the body control module.
    Bottom line, take it to the dealer 0.9 hour to fix with a scanner and there are 4 pages of procedures on connectors etc so save yourself the headache without the tools.
    They have done these and its probably around $100 well spent!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    For 2 slot fuses or circuit breakers: fuse block is + (positive) only so putting the 2 volt meter probes on the fuse slots will do nothing. One side is hot and the other dead till the fuse completes the circuit for +. One probe to a ground (bare frame or negitive battery side) and the other in the fuse slot will give a reading on the hot side slot, while with the fuse out the other slot is dead. 94 up diagram shows only 30A circuit breaker for windows and the window lockout switch in the circuit. The locks shows a 20A circuit breaker. You tested across these and they were good but they are thermal so a short may pop (heat up) quickly then reset. Then also a relay in the lock circuit that is pos and neg to activate. But both circuits are out on both sides but locks and windows are separate circuits which would suggest a short in the wiring to the door - open the door and pull the boots on the harness door to frame and check there. No burning smell at the fuse block I assume or recent damage. The switch panel on the door should pop out so probe there for + too.
  • bobbyhotelbobbyhotel Posts: 1
    I don't know much about cars, but my 01' Blazer reacts to every bump on the road. It's almost like I don't have any shocks. Are they normally bad with absorbtion or do I need new shocks?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    They are usually stiff cause they have gas pressurized Bilstin shocks. These maintain excellent roll control so Blazers don't trip or roll over like some other brand SUVs. Tires and air pressure also play a major part of ride and if you have put other tires on they may be the reason. The Uniroyals and Michelins that came stock or Crossterrains seem to be OK. Had some BFGs that were really stiff. Also inflation pressure at 35psi gets better mileage but you feel more. Have origimal shocks on all mine at 145k. 120k, 100k, and 85k miles. Reflex shocks have been getting good reviews by Blazer owners if you wish to soften up some on 2wd or 4wd.
  • boba246boba246 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Jimmy and my compass on the overhead console works fine but the temperature is off. I just noticed this was an item in 2003. The temperature reads way off. Example: today it is about 66 degress and the console is reading 43 degrees. It does switch eventually but according to the owners manual it says when you turn the ignition on the temperature will read the temperature that it was when you shut off the engine. How do you get to the electronics so I can replace what needs to be replaced. It was noted in the message of 2003 that the dealer told this individual that it would be $400 to replace the unit. Any input would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • sibbie7446sibbie7446 Posts: 1
    Okay first off I dont know a lot about cars well anything for that matter so please explain a simply as possible. I have a 1991 Blazer. It runs good except after driving around for about 10 blocks it starts acting weird. When stopped at a light it jumps and sputters and then dies. It starts back up fairly easily but I haven't a clue what the problem could be. I did a gas treatment and changed my oil and checked the hoses and checked all fluids. Any help would be appreaciated. And if not too much trouble how much would it cost me??
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    thank you...kay have juice at the fuse panel when tested to a different ground(brake pedal steering wheel etc)...no damage which way do i steer?.. like i said it is both doors..and like you said the locks are on different circuits :) when you say 94 diagram are we talking gm or some other publicacation..me am looking at haynes till I am blue in the face....while we are at it got another line of questiong regarding the 2.8 which i will post a little later..its a great car tons of life left in her 4 wheel drive gonna give it to my second daughter..rebuilt tranny rebuilt engine..(the crank broke) never did any hauling etc etc
  • Hey. I just want to share my story and ask some questions:
    I got my Blazer 2 Dr/4wd(which I love for its size)2.5 years ago, used with 29K miles. Did not buy any warranty, figuring its not going to be a long-term investment anyway. That week, the alternator died. Ive been known to kill alternators before so I figured it was just my bad luck. :mad: Threatened dealer to tow me to their repair shop to have it replaced, as they promised me that the car was in top shape. Thank goodness I was only 3 blocks away from the dealer and their shop. Then I noticed a knocking type of sound coming from the passangers side, inside the dash somewhere. Its not a constant knock, just once in a while. I try to map some sort of similarities when it happens, but nothing so far. Its random. Any suggestions or ideas? And ofcourse, my fuel gauge is dancing, it goes from full to half and then stops working, except at half its not half because I run out of gas pretty quickly at that point. I also just figured that I use more than half the tank in 90 miles- roughly 10 highway miles a gallon and I am shocked. Last 4th of july, after the fireworks when I returned to my car, it was dead. Couldnt jump start it, had it towed and changed the battery and alternator. Again. My moms first trailblazer, brand new 2001 spent more time at the dealers repair shop than in the driveway. Nothing ever worked from the first day she brought it home, mostly electronic problems. She traded it in for a new trailblazer ( I begged her to get a european car, as the dealer mechanic shop is like my second home, between the blazer, trailblazer and avalanche we own... )The trade-in new trailblazer is a 2004, been to the shop 5 times last year. Oh and when we did the trade-in, the guy pushed back the miles on the old trailblazer, it had around 35K and he pushed the gauge back to around 28500, as the special incentive was a warranty for all used cars under 29K. Cheeky [non-permissible content removed]. But overall I am happy with my 99' blazer and at 60K, she hasn't cost me much in repairs, yet. I will trade her in before 75K for a nice VW or Volvo though, even if shes not worth a dime....
  • Did you ever get this fixed I would like to know the fix. I have the same problem and no one seems to put a reply or fix to this problem.

    Thanks :sick:
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    took door panel off and tested at motor..have 12 volts at motor when a seperate ground is used also have juice at lock solonoid... disconnected window motor and used a seperate power source and it works fine..am i missing a ground somwhere ? where is the bus block grounded? kinda tight under the dash..p.s. i have some time to play with this thanx j :)
  • user260084user260084 Posts: 2
    I have an 1988 gmc s-15 jimmy, that revs to about 4000 rpm before it shifts from 1st to 2nd, to 3rd. I have adjusted the throttle (TV) cable, with no luck. Does anyone know anything else that can be done to adjust the shift? Thank you.
  • glags11glags11 Posts: 8
    Just leased a brand new 06 envoy..after driving for 2 days i've noticed the brakes squeaking very loudly right before the truck stops and then again right after I press the gas. This happens for about 5 or so seconds each time i break and press the gas, then it stops. Sometimes this squeaking continues when i am driving as well. Any one have any ideas as to why this is happening? Thank you.
  • franklimfranklim Posts: 11
    The quest continues....
    Lifters swapped and all put back together. Also replaced the spark plugs and changed the oil and filter. Still making the same metal-to-metal tapping noise on the driver's side that varies in speed with engine RPM and does not go away when the engine warms up. More stethoscope probing pinpoints the sound to be the loudest and most distinct on the front of the engine (specifically about half-way up timing chain cover) and between the #1 and #3 cylinder exhaust manifold ports. Sound is significantly less prominent as you move toward the back of the engine and on the passenger side. Next move: pull the timing chain cover to see if the chain is slapping around. The only thing else I can figure is that it is the connecting rod or wrist pin of Cyl #1. Is it true you have to pull the oil pan to pull the timing chain cover?

    God Bless,
    Michael
  • dgholmes59dgholmes59 Posts: 2
    I have the exact same problem with my 1998 Blazer. I have the computer climate control and keep it in the AUTO positions most all of the time.

    Mine usually works fine when it has sat for several hours. The A/C light will come on just after cranking and work fine until I stop somewhere and turn of the engine.

    When I come back after it has sat for typically less than an hour and more than 5 - 10 minutes, the A/C light will not turn on after cranking the engine. I press the A/C button and the light just blinks. Typically it takes from 1 minute to 5 minutes for the a/c to turn back and only when I am driving. Once it turns back ON, it works fine until I stop again. For the first time, last week, it turned off while I was stopped at a stop light about two blocks from my house.

    When I got to my house, I quickly installed my A/C gages before the problem cleared. The high and low side pressure was only 70 to 80 psig. Suspecting a bad pressure switch, I jumpered the low pressure switch, nothing. I jumpered the high pressure switch, nothing. The only way I was able to get the a/c back on was to turn off the engine and disconnect and reconnect the battery cable. After that, I cranked the engine and the a/c started immediately.

    The compressor is a fairly new rebuilt compressor. Since I am unsure of the computer inputs from the system, I wanted to make sure a problem with the compressor clutch resistance would not cause this problem. I disconnected the compressor clutch power cable and the clutch disengaged as it should and the A/C light stayed ON.

    From this information, I would assume the gas pressures and the compressor clutch is not causing this problem. I now suspect a problem with the Computer Climate Control module or its temperature sensor since disconnecting the battery and reconnecting cleared the problem and the system worked fine. I just do not understand why it works when I first crank up in the morning and doesn't work when it has sat idle for less than an hour and more than 5 - 10 minutes.

    Hotter ambient temperatures do seem to have some affect. This has happened only one time, but the A/C would not turn on immediately after leaving work about a week ago. It was very hot outside, about 95 deg, and hot inside as well. But as always, worked fine after driving about a couple of minutes and worked until I arrived home 45 minutes later.

    You are the first one that appears to be having the same problem. Have you found the answer yet?
  • franklimfranklim Posts: 11
    Timing chain is loose, real loose. I was not able to get the oil pan to let go of the block and transmission after pulling all bolts out (including the two small ones around the starter) and pulling the oil cooler block under the oil filter. I was able to pry the front of the pan down enough to get the timing chain cover off. The plan will be to re-use the existing oil pan gasket and use RTV to fill in the gaps on the front where the block deck and timing chain cover lower lip meet. It does not look like there is enough clearance to remove the oil pan while the engine is still installed in the truck. Might be possible if the transmission was out of the way. Not too sure how good of a job I could do removing the existing gasket, cleaning oil and debris out of the way and installing a new gasket without being able to completely remove the oil pan from the vehicle.

    God Bless,
    Michael
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Found your answer:
    Sensor is up front of radiator in behind the grill 98up # 9152245 for approx $22. Its a thermistor and as the temp increases the resistance decreases. Light green wire w/strip from the display to sensor other side to ground. Temp won't update until 18mph and good reading after 36 mph for 2 minutes.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Is the check engine light (or SES) on, if so read the codes out. If not then probably the CPI and hoses (nut kit) leaking under the intake manifold or fuel pump pressure so have them checked. Prices at shop vary but pump around $500. Shop will give an estimate before any work done but have to pay to analyze/determine.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, Haynes for 94up. That 2.8 was a gm car motor TBI.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Think your questions were gauge and knock so the sender is part of the fuel pump assembly in the tank and GM has a robust one now that online sells for $300 and then have to drop the tank to install so $600 plus at shop. The noise could be many things so specfic location sound needed but the heater core is behind the dash glove box and guggles when clogging. Flasher and blinker relays also back there but those click. Could be brake noise too, or drive shaft, 4wd, etc.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    AC or airbag light?
    AC auto climate has an electric blend motor and the control head (switchs on dash) plus a pressure switch that is bad the core freezes and melts so temp swings. Go to a shop that has seen these systems or GM or the analyzes will cost a bunch for new guys to determine and they will have to go to the online manual for this system (been there done that). GM compressors always blow the seals around 80k too.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Beleive the ground is thru the door hinge pins (metal to metal) so just run a new wire door to a body frame and see if that works.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Think you have a vac modulator on the trans that would effect that. Look that up online and check or at the auto store. Be my first try. Check the vac lines too.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Have the dealer check it out, its free. Could be sticking clipers or another quality GM assemly job that someone forgot to torque a bolt or something on the brake parts, hubs, or suspension - been a few things like that in the recent past (shock I know).
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Pressure switches are a common gm problem especially the newer snaller type so check the connectors there. Mine did the same thing and it was those. Also had a new blend motor one time but thats a hot cold cycling problem as the door swings back and forth. Search autoac online to help with just AC but can't list specfic other sites here. As for the control heat never tested that yet.
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