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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • tthomsontthomson Posts: 3
    Had a similar problem with mine after installing a new rt front hub/bearing. Had to do this 3 times. The first caused a knocking sound when turning. Replaced that with a second..the knocking went away but when applying the brakes over 40 mph the ABS would activate and pull it dead left (big time problem almost wrecked it). Hooked it up to a code reader and drove it. All wheels read fine till it got over 40 mph then the rt front would drop to like 20 mph. This made it think it was in a skid anytime the brakes were applied. Turns out that hub was bad too (theres like 200+ pins in it that the abs reads and some were damaged). Went with a new hub manufacturer and all has been well since. Hope that helps!
  • tthomsontthomson Posts: 3
    Have a 96 Jimmy with a strange grinding/whirring sound from the passenger side that comes and goes (sounds like a piece of plastic rubbing on a tire). The sound will come from out of nowhere and follows the speed of the truck in intensity. Usually if I pull off on the side of the road it stops and doesnt come back. Shifting to neutral does nothing but shifting to 4wd silences it but then I get a steady banging sound in the same spot in the front (sounds like driving on a road with expansion joints). It may happen once a week or once every two to three months not for any particular reason. The hub/bearing up there is new and the problem has happened before and after its replacement. It doesnt seem to come from the transfer case so I was thinking the differential or cv axles. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    See if the CV boots on the out/wheel end are intact and if grease has been flying out. Diff check the 80w-90 gear oil level thru the upper plug. Is the 4wd acuator vac line OK and the axle coupler not partly engaging. Then if its random pull the brakes and look at the caliper slide bolts and grease them, check the stainless metal plates that insert/sit in the bracket that the pads slide on and make sure they are clipped in cause if they are partly out you get a noise as they contact the top of the rotor (on the vented rusty area). Try touching the brakes when the noise happens and see if if then lessens. See if the pads have the anti squeal shims on the backs (piston side) and if not apply the permetex blue stuff. Dry climates cause noise problems sometimes as well as sand/dirt in the brakes.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    That should have turned the ABS light on - if you remove the 2 sensor bolts and the sensor on the hub you can look in and see the square cut cogs that the sensor looks at and turn the wheel to look at all of them. I'll remember this one.
  • bivenserbivenser Posts: 2
    No luck with the MAF. If you could dig out the relearn I would appreciate it.
  • pspiesmanpspiesman Posts: 6
    Recently I noticed a relatively quiet noise when I apply my brakes. It sort of sounds like this... "fffffitt fffitt fffitt fffitt." I hear it when I apply pressure to the brakes and even a little after I have let up. It does not always do it, probably 70% of the time though. I checked my pads and they are good (its a not really a squeal anyways). Anyone have any ideas what to check next? Maybe its always done it and I just noticed it but I don't think so....

    Thanks in advance.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Reread yours and the relearn is driving cycles which if yours does not run you can't do - only a scan too can help. But lets start again. Fuel pressure was good at 60psi key on engine off - correct - thats the start psi then if it runs 54psi lower. The crank sensor and cam sensor (in dist) send signals to computer to time it all and GMs have had pin problems so tighten the crank sensor connector pin connectors in the plastic connector (gently bend together) and try to start again. Did you disconnect the battery for 10 mins plus to reset the computer yet also. Check the wiring on both and trace for stripped or breaks (cam connects to back of the dist). Try those.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Grease all the caliper slide pins front and rear - rears are always missed and they get stuck often and wear a rotor on one side - usually the inside that many don't look at. Start there and then the calipers should release fully and float/slide/adjust as required as the pads wear and brakes are applied. The pads are held close to the rotors by the caliper seals retraction and as you see the pistons are only on one side of the calipers so movement is required or noise happens - also make sure those stainless inserts in the bracket are clipped in (pads slide on them) and make sure the pads can move on the inserts and brackets - rust can hinder that under the inserts - had this on one that was from a northern salt use area.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    I have a 01 Blazer LT (85,500) and love it. I have a few problems I read about in here and I am debating on fixing them. The issue with the blinking 4WD lights. It works so no problem right now. Not sure if I want to have the encoder replaced just yet. The gas gauge thing; so far it does not bother me that much. My daughter has the S-10 P/U and the same thing. However . . .

    In the morning sometimes when I try to start my truck, sometime I get nothing. Nada, zip. No lights, no radio, nothing. It is almost like the battery doesn't exist. I check my cables for tightness and low and behold the little engine compartment light comes on and and tada! everything is fine. Then there are the times it starts but it will not run. It is almost like it is flooding itself out. Drop it into Drive and it stalls. So I shut it off, give it a few seconds and insert the key and start it and hold it over a brief second and it runs great.

    I have also noticed that my instrument lights flicker at night when my lights come on. I turn the lights off and they stop. Bad rheostat switch? That is an easy fix. . .

    Would absolutely love to know if you have any ideas on this. Thanks. . . . .
  • nebulisnebulis Posts: 2
    Every once and a while the blazer will turn on the abs light and the parking break light. When this happens i have no power to the overhead console, power windows, vents, stereo or wipers (front or rear). What could the issue be?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    4wd lights are probably a bad sensor on the front axle that signals status or the transfer case that tells TCCM (computer in the pass side kick panel) that the low gear for 4Hi is engaged. The encoder is the motor (stupid name) on the transfer that is only for 4Lo gear engagement. Also check all vac lines up front from the intake.
    As for the gauge the sender is part of the pump and has been redesigned so more robust (GM hopes it actually works for awhile that means) and is $300 Delco online and have to drop the tank - what fun.
    As for the electrical they are always fun to locate but I would look at the battery cables and terminal and down on the starter too. Under the battey tray there is a positive junction block that can get corroded and the pos cable is an octopus looking thing so follow it - I had a 99 with a bad cable. Also check the negitive and make sure the ground to the motor block is good. Starter solenoid mounted on starter can fail intermittently so look there also - when it does not do anything (start) do all other electrical items work? Always possible its the ignition key/tumbler if looks of heavy things on the key ring. Has the battery and alternator been tested too - as one starts to fail and voltage wanders Blazers get confused and electrical items such as gauges start to swing around in value.
    You are probably correct on the light switch and usually its the dome light dimmer section that fails and thats why GM put that override button on it. If fact, if thats staying on at night randomly that cause cause some of your problems so override it at night and see if problems stop.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Sounds like an electrical connector or relay so check that all connectors under dash and engine compartment are clipped together. Only common point is the ignition switch after that for the other circuits - does it still run when all this happens?
  • maasy13maasy13 Posts: 6
    i need to find out where it is and what is wrong with it for it to turn on my service engine light. :lemon:
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    One of the fun items on 99-01 Blazers with the 4.3L motor and 00-03 2.2L motors is the Secondary Air Injection system. So here's what it is:
    This is located under the radiator (pump, electric solenoid, and vacuum shutoff valve) and tees off up to the exhaust manifolds thru 2 check valves on 4.3L. For 4wd remove the front skid plate to access. The secondary air injection pump is used to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up for about 1 minute. The PCM supplies a ground to the pump relay, which energizes the pump and the electric solenoid valve. Engine vacuum is applied to the shut-off valve when the solenoid is energized. The engine vacuum opens the shut-off valve that allows air to flow to the exhaust manifolds. Often the pump gets water/moisture in it and freezes up blowing the fuse and the check valves rust or freeze open internally and then burn thru the rubber hose. The fuse for the pump is behind the battery in the fender by the horn (remove battery to access and its under a plstic cover).
    You have to fix the system or the SES light will always be on - the computer tests for this system running on startup via the oxygen sensors readings. After you replace the bad parts you need to extend the intake hose from the pump (it ends on pass side of radiator now halfway up) by adding a 3' piece of heater hose and end it in that fender hole by the battery and fuse so water does not get sucked in - done 2 of mine so far and OK now. GM has a bulletin on this and dealers are used to replacing these parts - but that pump is $200 list.
  • microjoemicrojoe Posts: 1
    Does anybody know what size the lock nut is for the hub assembly for a 2000 GMC Jimmy? Please let me know. Thanks!!!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    36mm for the CV axle shaft large nut on 4wd - the 3 bolts holding the hub on to the steering knuckle are 18mm. That 36 is sold at most auto stores as a hardened axle nut socket. Loosen it with the wheel on the ground and then jack it up - you will probably half to use a block of wood and a hammer to free it from the hub and if reusing the CV do not wreak the threads on the shaft (thats why the wood).
  • wgochwgoch Posts: 4
    Have an interesting problem with my 97 Blazer LS (4.3L V6). It has about 92,000 original miles on it. Unlike apparently a lot of folks, mine has been essentially trouble-free until now. Last Saturday took it on a trip of about 200 miles each way. Everything was fine until about 40 miles from my destination. I was on the interstate doing about 65 mph when the engine suddenly appeared to lose all electrical power momentarily then recovered and everything returned to normal. Did that 4 or 5 times over about 5 miles. When it happened, dash voltmeter dropped to near 0, gas gauge went squirrely and speedometer surged. ABS and Airbag lights came on and remained on. Exited the freeway and pulled into a Chevy dealer near the exit. Service and parts were closed. Checked under the hood and everything appeared normal. Started up the engine and everything appeared normal. My thought was to try and make it to a town where I could have the alternator tested. However, everything continued to be normal so I continued on to my destination. On the return trip a few hours later, everything remained normal until I was about 40 miles from home when the same thing again occurred twice. The engine recovered and I made it home with no further problems. The following day I replaced the alternator and the engine ran normally. The vehicle sat idle for 3 days. Yesterday, I drove it on some local errands that required shutting down and starting it again several times. Again, no problems. After returning home and a few hours later, I tried to start it and it wouldn't. Starter turns the engine but there doesn't appear to be any power to the instrument panel. None of the lights or gauges turn on with the key in either on or start. I would certainly appreciate any guidance or suggestions from anyone who may have had the same or similar problems.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Easy one - known problem part is the "97 ignition switch", under $100 at most stores. This is the wiring and connectors in the column, not the actual tumbler/key. Some bad internal connections and most power runs thru it so that's why it dies and restarts. Do a search on this and you'll find lots of info on the web.
  • wgochwgoch Posts: 4
    Thanks very much. I'll give it a shot.
  • 2 questions. I have a 97 blazer and it seems to be making a squeaking noise repeatedly in warm/hot conditions. With the windows down it sounds like it is coming from the rear right hand side of the vehicle. my guess would be something to do with brakes seeing as how when i hit the brake even just slightly, the squeaking stops. Not sure how else to describe the problem, because its only audible when traveling 25-???mph.

    Also, I am selling this blazer, and would like to find a good price for it, 97 4x4 brown, cloth interior(brown) premium wheels - clean flawless in nearly every way except the following small problems -
    ^the problem listed above^
    driver side door has a very slight ding in it, hardly noticeable.
    driver side door lock doesn't lock with power locks, must be locked manually.
    tread @ approximately 50%

    some positive things about the car include
    kept well & clean by mature & loving owner :)
    Roof holder thing :P
    tinted windows
    1 month old alternator
    and etc

    from what I have seen the approximate price would be 4500 - 6,000$ am I wrong? edmunds says 4g private party, KBB says 5.5g private party, whats up with this
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    What is the "Kelley Blue Book" Price?

    Check out the Sell Your Car link on the main page if you're in the US.

    Steve, Host
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    97 has rear drums so check the pads and make sure you place a dab of grease behind the pad point where it contacts the mounting/backing plate so it will move without hanging up. Also make sure the front discs are not worn and contacting the squealer/low indictor tab.

    As for price that regional and what the local market is doing vs how fast you want to sell it - all online books are averages so good luck. Mileage is also important as well as what items you have maintained.
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    My 2000 Blazer is equipped with the brake replacement alarm which is designed to make squeaking/hissing noise when the brake pad is worn out. When the brake pedal is applied, this noise disappears. Mine started to make this noise at 45,000 miles and I replaced brake pads for a few hundred dollars at a dealer. 2000 Blazers have rear disc brakes. This repair seemed to be a normal wear and tear maintenance. I hope this helps.
  • cmcnearcmcnear Posts: 1
    I know it is a small problem but it really bugs me...the digital temp gauge is out of wack. It shows 135 todat (i know it is a hot PA day bu this is just silly) Anyone know where the sensor is? Or if something else may be wrong?
  • bgalardebgalarde Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 chevy blazer with auto climate control which stopped working altogether. The ac compressor runs all the time (cycles) no fan, the controls to change the vents (floor,defrost,dash)don't work, rear defog doesn't work,
    and temp doesn't change. All the fuses are good also. Is there any help for this?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Sensor is in front of the radiator and can be changed separately. See post #2299 on this.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Blazers have a known crappy compressor that often blows the seals and if they sniff it they will tell you. Also could be a bad pressure sensor, bad contacts on a connector, the control head, or a simple vac line - so enjoy life and take it to a good AC shop or you will be searching for some time. In fact with climate control, the dealer has more knowledge than most small local shops - been there and they took 2 hours to even analyze it so a dealer would have been cheaper - they have seen all the wonderful problems many times.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Rear discs started on 98 models and all disc pads have the metal tabs to warn of low pad material.
  • bkgray38bkgray38 Posts: 1
    I bought a 1995 chevy blazer, 4.3 liter, V6 vortec in July 2004. It had 105,000 miles on it when I bought it. Now it has close to 150,000. In October 2004 I had to replace the fuel injectors and both front shocks. In October 2005 I had an oil change, new plugs and wires installed. About 2 months ago the blazer started missing, stuttering or hestitating so I took it my mechanic. He said the only problem he could find was that the transmission needed cleaned. He said the trany was in good shape. Ran good for awhile. Last week I took it to Grease Monkey for an oil change. They came out and said they could not touch it because the oil cooler assembly was not attached to the engine block and it was ready to fall off plus someone had put on the wrong oil filter and oil was leaking everywhere so I took the car back to my mechanic he said he would fix the oil cooler assembly, do a complete oil change, but he also needed to change the distributor cap,rotator button,new plugs and wires. He called me and said when he took it for a test drive the fuel pump went on so he repaired that as well plus I needed a new muffler and tailpipe. This came to a total $441.00 The blazer runs like brand new now! My question is since I just had new plugs and wires less than a year ago, did he pull one over on me? I know nothing about cars so I have no clue what really needed to be done besides the muffler and tail pipe. It isn't missing anymore and no more smell of gas fumes.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I got alittle lost in there on the "fuel pump went on" because thats in the tank so maybe the fuel filter was replaced under the frame rail. If oil sprayed all over the engine also then it could have coated the dist and wires etc so arching and replacement may have been the best solution. Price was good for all that work. When the remote oil cooler lines go (crimps on hoses) you are lucky that all oil did not blow out and destroy the engine.
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