Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

18182848687119

Comments

  • mays_jlmays_jl Posts: 3
    mine did the same thing I spun my wheels and did everything. My hub bearings was bad but u couldn't tell till u got them off and spun them.real easy to change need a 36 mm socket and a pipe(lol) and a large 3 jaw puller to pull the hub off of the shaft. you can them on ebay for $100 with shipping do both sides if one is worn the other isn't far behind.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    Sorry about that. 01 Chevy Blazer 4WD. As of this morning 86644. It started after I put on some new Bendix brake pads. It is a no brainer to install as to do the job, just remove the old ones after recessing the pistons, install the anti-rattle clips, pop the new ones in notches in the brake assembly, put some grease on the slide pin bolts, and reinstall the caliper assembly. I recess the pistons slowly using a C-clamp on the center of the old pad and push them back, nice and slow to make sure they go back even. The back brakes are the same way and I have had no problems with them. Easiest brakes I have ever changed (hate drum by the way). I am not real sure what changed except the pads. I am planning to replace the shocks as I noticed they look like they have never been replaced. I did buy this vehicle used. To me 5 years without changing the shocks seems to be a stretch, at least it is for me. Could this also be part of it?
  • I got a Blazer S10 -98, with a non working 4WD. The transfer case works, the vacuum works and pulls the wire, the dash swithes works, the box and relays all work, everything seems to work except that the front wheels won´t drive. What could be wrong in the front axle? Is there some kind of "fork" that should activate the drive shaft or something taht could be broke or not in place??
    Please help, Magnus, Sweden.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Those Bilstins last along time and I have 4 Blazers all original shocks - over 150k. If the corners don't bounce they are probably OK - some have gone to reflex or sensatrac and that softens it up some but bet thats not the vibration cause.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes there is and the cable pulls it in and then that 2 wire electrical connector is to a sensor that tells the 4wd computer or TCCM that its engaged. You should hear the coupler engage and disengage as vacuum is applied and removed.
  • Lost all power and engine shut down,then i noticed there was no oil pressure,checked oil level and was full .Could the oil pump make you loose power and shutdown if it goes out?And can it go out all of a sudden?Or can it jumping time cause this?
  • vw27278vw27278 Posts: 29
    Just wondering if anyone knew the location of the pcv valve on a '98 Blazer? I have 118k miles on it and have never had it replaced, so I guess it's about time.
  • vw27278vw27278 Posts: 29
    Has anyone had the experience of their fuel guage not reading correctly on a '98 Blazer? Mine goes up and down (slowly) and only registers correctly when the tank is full. In fact, it mostly seems to give incorrect readings when the tank is about half full and less.

    Any advice is much appreciated.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, many have problems - the sender and pump are 1 piece so only way to fix is drop the tank and replace - Delco unit is $400 plus install - sorry. Many use the odometer to be sure. The new pump is an improved design - i.e. they finally made one that works right! No recalls.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Look at engine and its to the drivers side of middle - see the hose and it sits in a rubber grommet in the valve cover.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Could be fuel pump so check the pressure - many posts on that. Could be fuel pump relay also. There is an oil pressure switch and if the relay fails and the oil pressure switch also fails it will shut off but thats not common to have both go together. Any code (SES light)?
  • I got it started today and for some reason it has a little knock and sounds like fan belt sqeaking but its not the fan belt.Any Ideas ??? Idleing real rough... Called a local parts store (Advanced Auto ) and they said cant do diagnostics without the service engine light being on.
  • mattn10mattn10 Posts: 3
    I just bought a jimmy and to get the 4wd to disengage i have to disconnect a vacum line. To get it engaged I have to reconnect it. Any Help will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks matt
  • mbgld1mbgld1 Posts: 1
    I repaired the secondary air injection pump. I freed up the pump, replaced the relay, inserted a maxi fuse and checked the valve with a vacuum pump and lengthened the intake hose by three feet. I still get a code P0410 after a couple of days. Any ideas?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Not alot of info for a majpr problem but I'll give you a few things to look at.
    1. Is the coolant dropping - has the lower intake gasket been changed - most go by 80-100k and water gets in the valley area.
    2. Last tuneup - cap,rotor, plugs, wires, feul and air filter by 100k.
    3. EGR valve clogged or stuck - black 2"x3" cylimder mounted on front of engine - remove 2 bolts clean port.
    4. Injection clogged up - run some good cleaner.
    5. Sensors - MAF in intake dirty spray clean, or othres but a code usually shows.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Look under the battery tray - yea, have to pull battery and tray out and the 4wd front axle coupler is there - vac operated and it pulls a cable to the front axle. Believe you also have a vac fitting on top of the transfer case on 93 that might also be looked at if not the actuator.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Lucky you - I fixed my 99 and 01 this year too.
    Once the pump runs then you have to make sure it shuts off - after a minute feel/listen to the end of the intake hose and it should be shut off - another solenoid above the pump to open/close that - then did you open (pops apart) the plastic valve in the line by the pump in the large hose - has a diaphram that can clog/burn and that has to be good. Then are the check valves on the exhaust manifolds new and the L shaped little hoses (dealer for hoses but check valves at all auto stores) - most rust out before now and cause the code due to air leaks or staying open - easist way to change those is remove the 2 small bolts on the metal pipe to exhaust and take out of Blazer - the check valve is threaded and rusts to pipe so a vise is usually required. Pass side can be reached but easy way is remove air box on drivers side. Good luck.
  • Just had the lower intake gasket changed about 12 days ago..
  • mattn10mattn10 Posts: 3
    Thanks Repairdog. I will give it a shot when I get back to the states.

    matt
  • My Blazer is stuck in 4hi and will not shift into 2hi. What should I do?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Pull off the vac line that goes down to the actuator from the intake and see if the front axle coupler disengages. If so push the 2Hi button and see if it goes in. If that doesn't do it disconnect the battery for 30 min and that will reset the TCCM (4wd computer) - hope that does it. There is a sensor on the axle too that tells the TCCM the axle position.
  • I can't figure out where the knocks comeing from, it sounds down low almost under the vehichle.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Hopefully not your engines rod or crank bearing - if water was getting in there for some time those can fail. If the intake was done by a shop ask them to pinpoint the noise. Sometimes when the lower intake is down the intake bolts (8 of them) are over torqued and there is a bulletin on that - distorts the block and the crank bearing fail. 96up with newer injection and intake design bolt torque is 12lbs while older style was 35lbs (95earlier).
  • mattn10mattn10 Posts: 3
    when i first start the truck when it is cold there is a knocking from the engine. any idea's would help

    Thanks MATT
  • Would you have coolent in your oil-pan if this happens???
  • i have a 98 Jimmy AC/HEAT Blower does not work. Fuses look good. When you turn on AC it has no effect on engine, no compressor. :( NEED HELP

    Thanks
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Actually when the lower intake leaks and it is internal it sprays into the valley area over the lifters (often a lifter tap on start is first sign) and on cam and counter rotating shaft and then evaps due to heat - never see in the oil. When you pull the intake off the valley area is orange from the Dex Cool.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Does the blower work on vent? If not the motor is probably shot. If it does work then its the AC compressor rear seal probably leaked and R134 low so will not turn on, or a bad connector somewhere, or a low press switch - AC shop can tell in 5-15 min and let you know. The compressors usually fail at 80-100k but not always so if it did get a NEW one not a rebuilt - only a few dollars more and the rebuilts do not last.
  • I got the upper ball joints replaced with no problems but I cannot for the life of me get the dam lower ones out. I have it unbolted from the lower control arm and have it seperated from the lower arm as well but I cant get enought room to get it out/ put a new one in. I have turned the steering wheel every way to gain clearence, I also took the upper one back off to get some room but I just cant get it off. :( Any help would be great.

    Add: Also I have 4wd, the lower joint is just sitting there ready to be pulled out, just dont have enough room to get it out. It seems that I would have to remove the half shafts to get it out but nowhere have I read anywhere or in the manual that you have to remove them. It simply says to move the lower control arm over :mad:
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If the lower is similar to 98up design (all I've done) after disconnecting the upper ball joint, with the CV shaft disconnected from the hub and hub/bearings,dust shield, brakes and brackets all off, I removed the steering knuckle and lower from the vehicle then pound the lower out of the knuckle. Then bolt the new upper and lower in the control arms, install the lower into the knuckle, then jack up the lower control arm to bolt the upper onto it. Install hub/bearing, brakes etc. Hope that helps. Even the later years say don't have to remove the hubs but never done works for me that way. They are a pain.
Sign In or Register to comment.