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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • I told you wrong about the O2 sensors, apparently I fixed those in the past by re seating them. The SES was on because of these codes:

    P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

    P1870 TCC Stuck Off 2 each
    Transmission Component Slipping

    PO128 Coolant temp below thermostat regulating temp, 2 each
    ECT Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature(GM)
    Coolant Thermostat Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature

    Well, I got lucky because changing the fluid and filter made the transmission operate better than before. The thermostat change is next. I do have some type of vacuum line with holes in it. The line runs from a switch on the firewall to something under the battery support frame. I do know what the components are at this time. The hose either melted or chaffed on the rear, right side of the intake manifold. The hose runs under the manifold to underneath the battery frame. Once again, thanks, and I will keep you posted.
  • Thats the 4wd front vac line that runs from the solenoid down to the actuator under the battery tray that when vac applied pulls a cable to the pass side of the front axle to engage it. Needed for all 4wd modes. You should be able to replace the burned part with 5/32 or 7/32 line and an inline plastic connector - the end on the under battery actuator is special type.
  • ckk4ckk4 Posts: 13
    Thanks. A assume this is for the single spindle nut. Do you know what the four attachment bolt torque is?
  • Well, I hate it when you are right and still get screwed. I finally brought the S10 into another mechanic and found that the new fuel pump which is less than 6 months old failed and now I have a new one. My ole truck is back and running great. Thanks for your input.
  • All 4wd and 2wd 95up are lower 79 ft-lbs and upper 61 ft-lbs
  • Lots of problems with non-Delco pumps.
  • borrowed my jimmy to someone and she overheated..replaced the water pump..she was bad..borrowed it again overheated again...(women)..anyway she has a knock like a lifter..with the engine running backed off all the change...undid all the plug wires as she was runnin change..I know what ford lifters sound like but this does not compute..she has 60k on rebuilt new cam pistons and crank..runs fine but that knock is knockin my socks off..p.s. she is sittin im garage till next june....good oil pres. ..also statically adjusted valves today still runs fine but that knock..or lets call it a tinkkkk ideas? j :confuse:
  • the overheating was the fan clutch pretty much done everything cept pull the motor...she runs on all 6 even with all the hoses plugged while i am trying to this something i can live with?..water is clean..oil is clean..1 thing when she was rebuilt the guy put in a slightly bigger cam..that equated to less power as we never changed the nozzles (throttle body 220).. but like i said ...ah I dont know if he changed the lifters....?anyway :)
  • ckk4ckk4 Posts: 13
    Thanks. I'm sorry, but I'm still confused. On the ball joint assembly, there's one spindle nut (the male, or ball joint), and four attachment bolts (on the female, or where the ball joint is pressed into). Do you know (a) what the spindle torque is, and (b) what the torque is for the four bolts. I assuming also that the spindle bolt torque is what you have previously lised?

    Thanks in advance.
  • Hi, My 4.3 liter 4wd automatic transmission has slipped its linkage. I re-adjusted it so it would lock in park. Afterwards it would not shift into drive and would start in reverse. I did it again and now the lever range is all drive and I cannot put it in park to remove the keys. No neutral or reverse. Have to start in drive.
    When I checked the linkage the dedent click are not there except in the D1 D2 and the part lock seems to engage.
    Can this be fixed externally? Do I have to pull the pan and site the dedents and realign there?
    I can run this for a few days but starting in drive is hard on the started and battery, not to mention only pulling in to a space with nose out. Thanks a lot, Gene.
  • Yes, the 1 big nut is balljoint to knuckle nut and what I listed. The 4 nuts are what the replacement kit instructions list as their torque based on bolt size/type and are between 8-15 ft lbs, model dependent.
  • Book says with parking brake on, loosen swivel nut on linkage, put shifter in N, go down to trans and find N for sure in the trans by pushing shift lever forward then back to second detent, tighten swivel nut, check to see if all OK. Hope that fixes.
  • I have a 1992 S-10 Blazer with the electronic dash. It has 84K on it, and was bought new. For the past few months, I have had problems with the speedodometer working, going out, and coming back on. I have only had problems with the speed reading and signal lights. All of the other gauges worked constantly as they should. I thought maybe it could be a short or something. Does anyone have experience with this type of thing, so that I will know how to proceed? Thanks.
  • I have a 91 GMC Jimmy S-15 SUV and the steering colum is loose at the tilt. It wiggles and moves no matter what position it is in. No one seems to know how to repair this problem or know where to find instructions on this repair. Please help.
  • I have a 99 Blazer 4wd/4dr. It all happen when I went to the Carolina's for the July 4. Driving back home I had my lap top plugged into the adapter and cd player plugged into another adapter and AC blowing. The jeep shut off, then when I tried to start, it would stall. Then I it felt like the gas was'nt givin any power to the engine. While at a stop light or stopping in traffic it would shut off and if it was over heating. So most important I notice that when I play my radio it get's hot and my window controll buttons get warm, then the car would shut off again. Finally had it check, and I was told it was the fuel pump, but just went to auto zone and was told that it can me my harness wiring. Any ideas what I can do before I pay $300 and labor for a new fuel pump. I believe it is a electrical short somewhere. :cry:
  • I am trying to replace the third brake light on my '02 Jimmy. Of course you can't just replace a bulb on these ones, you have to buy a whole new light. I have the new one and I have made sure that it is the correct replacement.

    Does anyone have any instructions on how to replace this light? Most importantly, how to get to where the wires "plug in"?

    Thank you
  • Check the VSS connector and wiring on the transmission tail (2wd) or trnasfer (4wd) that feeds the dash. A general online search for 92 Blazer electric dash will yield rebuilts and info on their problems.
  • Never done one but have to think pull the headliner down (hopefully only the rear section partially) to bolt thru roof and get to connector.
  • Radios all get hot due to the amp built in it. Check your battery and alternator for correct voltage first then a fuel pressure test to determine if really the pump. GM has had some problems with dirty/loose connectors on the top of the pump causing a voltage drop also so they can be cleahed with electronic spray cleaner and reinstalled. Also could be the fuel pump relay so swap it with a similar one under hood box.
  • Ask your parts store about "91 blazer steering columns" or do a general search and companies and info pop right up.
  • Can I do this myself, or do I need to take it to a shop. If I can do this myself, how do I get to the connectors. Please explain step by step process so I can follow. I really appreciated your help. Thank you, I will swap the fuel pump relay today and will let you know. How will I know if it working right. Oh by the way I did check my battery and alternator and they are fine. Can do the fuel pressure test myself or do I need to go to a shop
  • How complicated is checking the VSS connector and trnaster?
    I can order a rebuilt motherboard on ebay with a limetime warranty for about $50 shipped. Either way, I will have to get a mechanic to do the work. Thanks.
  • You need a fuel pressure tester thats about $35 and all stores have them, usually an Actron. Test at the fuel rail (metal) under hood by the distributor. Min 60psi key on engine off and then 53psi running. Just don't dump alot of fuel back there - if in doubt use a shop to do.
  • Usually the board. If the VSS fails puts you in first gear as the norm.
  • Tried that already...nothing for the third brake light there.
  • guestguest Posts: 770
    sounds crazy but kick back bumper usally a loose ground wire.
  • well we got out 2001 LT blazer a little over a year ago. I love the truck its awesome, but recently we have had some problems. we were driving up to rockford hours from home, and our transmission made some nasty clunking sounds, and then wouldn't shift into reverse. so we took it to a local dealership, who were very nice and the warranty covered basically rebuilding the transmission,we didn't have the truck for a week. well just the other day before a big, ice/sleet/snow storm for the 1st time since we got it back I hit the auto 4wd button and nothing happened, I also got stuck in the snow. it won't shift into any of the 4wd gears at all, the panel just blinks and it goes back to 2hi. yesterday I took it back to the dealership I bought it from , and an hour later they told me the decoder motor went bad. they would have to order a new one. well we bought an extended warranty and that doesn't even cover it. they are saying $830 to fix it. I won't have it fixed, I can't afford that. I tried the disconnect the battery trick, and it just does the same thing. I still think them doing something with the transmission and this are connected because it worked when I gave it to them. any one have any solutions here ?
  • They had to take the transfer case out to fix the transmission so its possible they did not connect one of the connectors completely, so do a search and you will see the many posts on the possible causes and fixes. If it is the encoder motor they are about $200 new online. Got to get 4Hi to work first so that front actuator has to work.
  • today while doing some expiramenting I think I got the truck to shift to 4LO. then I think it also was able to go to 4hi, I think, but no auto 4wd. the weird part about all this is the lights on the dash for the corresponding gears, still blink, but you can definitely tell the difference.
  • Hi, My name is Chet. My Son has a 91 Blaser and it had the same problem. the problem is inside the steering where the tilt wheel knucle is. if you remove the steering wheel and the turn signal assembly. look (deep) inside the column, (use a flashlight) you will see torx (could be hex head) screws/bolts that hold the knucle (like a u-joint) together. you will very likely find at least two of them loose. I had to do this fix twice and so you should know that just tightening them up is not good enough. if you want it to last, you have to remove the bolts, clean them well and re-install them with some thread-locker on the threads. I did this about a year ago and it has been fine since then. by the way, be careful to get the high/low dimmer switch rod back in it's proper location before final assembly. AND, if you let it go too long without fixing it, one or more of these bolts may fall out and lock-up the steering.... be careful. Hope this helps...
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