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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems



  • al6pndral6pndr Posts: 45
    Well what does G.M. have to worry about? when this vehicle has upset enough folks to the point that they won't do business with them any more, OBAMA and the boys will "BAIL" them out with our $ any way!!
  • bitsmasherbitsmasher Posts: 15
    Snaproll, on mine the problem was the cheap-a$$ electrical connector going into the blower underneith the glovebox. I pulled it apart and one of the four contacts was burnt. I carefully cleaned it and straightened it out and put some conductive paste on it (anti-seeze), plugged it back together and it has been working fine.
  • I have a 2010 Colorado Crew Cab which I purchased used 1 month ago. I has 15,000 miles on it. The a/c compressor short cycles, and does it more frequently as the weather gets hotter. I went back to the dealer, but the weather was cooler and raining that day, and the compressor was not cycling so much. The dealer said that operating pressures were good, and could not duplicate the problem. It almost seems to be going off on high head pressure. Does the system have a high pressure cut out, as well as the low pressure? When the compressor is running it cools very well. Thanks for the help.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    I would recommend taking the vehicle in on a day that is warmer so the dealer can observe what it is your are referring to. Please keep me updated on your situation.
    GM Customer Service
  • snaproll1snaproll1 Posts: 88
    Yeah, that was pretty much the take of it. The connector was fried though on the blower motor, melted. Let's see, this is the second time the blower motor is burned, the resistor went once already. That checked out good this time. This was another three hundred and some dollar fix for something that I've never heard of frying on a vehicle once, let alone twice in 6 years. I mean the connector was literally BURNED. MELTED. This is not NORMAL for a vehicle.

    I really wish I knew what the culprit was for all these electrical problems. I wonder if it is one thing like a shoddy, cheap voltage regulator or if it really is a combination of poorly designed components, bad grounds, faulty programming and bad wiring.

    GM= :lemon:
  • ahewkahewk Posts: 1
    when ever i touch the pedal the wheels spin way to much could it be the corvette engine that was installed? or am i just that damn lucky!
  • Well, I finally gave up on the Colorado and traded the POS in on a Toyota.

    In concept the Colorado is not a bad little truck, but design implementation and complete lack of GM/Chevy knowledge and lack of support have been a never-ending nightmare.

    I never in a million years thought I would by anything but American, until my experience with the Colorado and GM. For any of you folks that haven't junked your Colorado/Canyon yet, get whatever is wrong with it fixed and while it is still working, trade it in quickly before the next thousand dollar mishap. I still can't believe they allowed this piece of junk out of the factory, never had a recall on all the electrical problems, and then had the gall to take taxpayer money to stay in business when the company earned a trip to the bancruptcy courts.

    Colorado= :lemon:
  • al6pndral6pndr Posts: 45
    Snaproll1. Congratulations!!!You are yet one more of a growing number of EX-G.M. customers!! Me I couldn't bring myself to buy a [non-permissible content removed] product. Call it patriotism,or the fact we still have some Vetrans of WWII around.

    24 years ago Ford "ticked "me off and I went to Chevrolet. Now G.overnment M.otors with thier who cares attitude has lost a23yr. customer,but Chrysler/Jeep have gained one and even though my vehicle is used I've been very happy so far.

    It's funny I've been driving for 32 yrs. and have had 7 vehicles. 2new Fords, 4 Chevys only one of them brand new and this was the one that I had the most trouble with, and the WORST customer service from the dealer who sold it to me along with G.M. cust. serv.

    Oh well we will have to see how this goes if and when I get a new vehicle again. Seems I surprisingly have had my best luck with used vehicles. Al6pndr
  • It's interesting, I had a string of Ford Explorers, no problem, just got too expensive. I thought I would give GM a try. What a mistake. The issue wasn't so much the dealer. I mean they were pretty clueless with the electrical problems, just kind of randomly replacing expensive components saying it would fix the problem and when it didn't, claiming they were "bad anyway".

    Eventually they agreed that all the problems had to be tied to the fried fuse block the truck had and offered to pick up 1/3rd of the cost if I would pick up a third and Chevy would pick up a third. The Chevy rep said no. The dealer was as dumbfounded as I was. I contacted the "customer quality care group" or whatever they call it. They offered me the equivelent of a "jelly of the month club" prize, something like "4 oil changes and a tire rotation, package valued at $450 dollars!" according to them. Right. What garbage. Over the years the weird failures continued to grow or reoccur.

    In the meantime my wife traded her XJ6L Jag in for a Venza. She loves it. Everybody I talk to love Toyota, they all say the same thing, "no problems/good service/good resale".

    I'm eyeing her Venza while my truck has the door lock/fob/window/dead battery deal for the second time, failed blow motor for the second time. I'm thinking about all the posts here on the fun stuff I haven't experienced yet like the dead instrument cluster, malfunctioning lights, wiper motor problems, cruise control problems. When do I get hit with that stuff? The mileage on the truck is up there enough for 'regular' stuff to start to go like the alternator, starter etc. I've already sunk more than a couple thousand into weird reoccuring problems that Chevy never heard of. Like I say, the Colorado is the gift that just keeps on giving to their parts and service reps.

    It was just a nobrainer to get a Toyota this time. The quality is there, the design is there, the functionality is there. We haven't had to worry about support because so far, after two years with the Venza, nothing is wrong.

    All I can say is I am so glad to be rid of the Colorado. It has to be the darkest chapter in Chevy's failures since the Vega.
  • I am having the same issue with my 2009 Canyon and did the same things that Dave tried with no luck. Radio stays on when I open the driver's side door but shuts off when I open the passager side door. Any solutions

  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    I would definitely recommend speaking with a dealer about your concerns. Please keep me updated on your situation.
    GM Customer Service
  • labboylabboy Posts: 2
    I did the same to an Isuzu I-280 blower resistor connector and it corroded again after about 6 months. I plan to remove the connector and solder the wires directly. The resistor connector pins are high current junctions that operate at high temp. That is why the blower resistor is placed in the airduct, to cool it. I think the connector pins are too small to survive the heat and current load.

    By the way the I-280 is a Colorado with a different front grill.

    I have a few other strange electrical problems that I'll post shortly.
  • al6pndral6pndr Posts: 45
    WELCOME to "The Electrical Club of Discontent!!!" More "strange electrical problems" to come!!
  • radoon24sradoon24s Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    if someone runs across this message recently, the problem with a missfire, or what they call a "random missfire," is that the coil pack (sometimes called coil on boot plugs coming equiped with the boot that attaches to the spark plug) has to be changed every 5 or 6 years depending on mileage. dont let the guys at autozone or some wer tell u different. my 2005 colorado ran very badly after quite some time, until i changed the coil packs. that was about $64 each (a total of 4 of them).They act as individual distributors for the spark plug. the enginge might still have a tremble due to ethanol building in the injectors, but u can buy seafoam (fuel injectr cleanr) to regulate it somewhat.
  • The misfire could also be from a lack of compression if you have the original head on the engine and did not get it replaced in the recall.
  • I'm overwhelmed reading some of these posts. I have a 2004 Chevy Colorado with 90,000 miles. She looks great, but has begun having electrical issues. Recently I have had the blower resistor and wiring harness changed. The harness showed a burned pole like another post mentioned. That's kind of scary to me to think that there could be a potential fire under the dash. Blower works, but will occasionally stop for a few seconds then come back on. Doesn't seem right to me. Also, the lights on the dash flicker when I start the truck. They ultimately come on full, but sometimes this takes a few seconds as well. I am doing some "testing" on this and think it's related to the blower. The lights flicker when the blower is left on, but don't seem to if the blower is off when I start the truck. The truck has blown 2 fuses in 3 weeks to the master switch for the power windows. I keep a spare in the glove box now just in case. The CD player isn't usable. The dealer where I purchased the truck put a new radio in, but when I play a CD, it overheats and skips. I have had some issues with it not wanting to eject the disc as well. So, I just don't use it anymore. Also, over the past 2 winters I have had 3 occasions where the security system won't disable and the truck won't start. I usually sit there locking and unlocking the truck with the key fob until it disables so the truck will start. This has taken up to 15 minutes in a cold truck during an Ohio winter...not fun! As another post mentioned, I have changed many bulbs over the past year as well. Headlights, fog lamps, turn signals and license plate lights. I have had one mechanic suggest many of these issues may be related to the Body Control Module. I have had the truck in many times over the past few months and spent a lot of money and have no concrete solutions. Any advice? Getting rid of it isn't really an option.
  • How old is your battery? I had flickering problems when my battery was about 4 years old. Most of them stopped after I replaced the battery. If it is marginal, replace it.

    Regarding the fan connector - avoid using #3 speed as it pushes the most current accross the connector with the resistor. No fires yet ;)

    Check my earlier posts regarding the windows - my problem was in the fuse box not making a food connection with the fuse! I was leary about disassembing the whole box so I just bulked up the leg of the fuse. I think the Lord of Darkness designed the electrical system on this!

    Good luck!
  • "Any advice? Getting rid of it isn't really an option."

    Sorry to hear that. Unfortunately I think it is your best option. This truck model is an electrical money pit. Well there is another option, sooner or later the "GM Team" will read your post, apologize for your frustration and then invite you to spend more money at your local Chevy dealer to experiment with trying to fix your problems. When that doesn't work, they'll offer you four oil changes and a free tire rotation "worth $450 dollars".

    This thread had been going on for at least 4 years without any concrete leads. There have been a lot of good leads and thoughts, bad grounds, bad connectors, weak alternator, crimped wiring, burned fuse blocks, bad BCMs. It could be any of this stuff or a combination of anything.

    In short it is simply bad engineering and a bankrupt company that refused to recall a defective product. After they raped their customers, they raped the taxpayers to stay in business. The sooner these things are in the junkyard GM will breath easier.

    Also make sure your Colorado has had the head replaced under warranty otherwise it is big $$$ to do it on your own. Also don't forget the recall on the tail lights that may stay on, or not come on at all. Oh yes, it's not a recall until you have a problem with them, like getting rear ended. But that's what Chevy expects to happen to their customers... Buy a Toyota and get your money's worth.
  • The many problems with the drivers window and locks can be traced to a fuse in the fuse box. It doesn't make good enough contact on the component side. When the problem is experienced, if you take a DVM (digital voltmeter), and probe the fuse (while someone is activating the drivers window), you will find a voltage drop at the contact for the fuse. It will read system voltage on the one contact to the fuse and low voltage on the other contact. I am testing the contacts to the fuse, not the fuse itself. Cleaning and greasing the connection with silicone grease seemed to correct it for me. Others may have to bypass the fuse somehow with solder and a fuse holder and wire.
    The other problem with the blower speed resistor I fixed by removing the resistor and directly soldering the wires to the resistor. The problem with that one is oxidation on the spade terminals. There is quite an amount of blower motor current that goes through these connections. They tend to heat up and make what is called "oxidation". The more oxidation there is, the more heat is made, therefore the "vicious circle" causes the connections to go bad. The reason it works only on high is the high speed connection goes through a fan relay instead of the fan motor itself. On the high speed connection, there is very little amperage through it so it doesn't make corrosion on the terminal (oxidation).
    Hope this helps somewhat with explanation of some very common problems.
    It can be fixed. Humans put it together and humans can fix it if they are smart at troubleshooting. The best thing I learned troubleshooting electrical issues is that you have to create a load on a circuit under test to troubleshoot bad voltage connections, or you will not see the problem. In other words, if your headlights don't come on, leave the switch on and start back-probing with a DVM or test light. Unless you leave draw on the circuit, your test light or DVM will indicate system voltage under a "no load" condition. I cannot stress this enough in troubleshooting electrical issues. You have to have an assistant operate the door locks and or window while you are troubleshooting to find the voltage drop.

    Sincerely, Master certified Tech, Light and Heavy duty vehicles and trucks.
  • That is a great post, one of the best and most informative on the problem. It makes sense and it sounds like logical troubleshooting. I wish you had posted it back in 2007 before I took the Colorado in for service to the local Chevy dealer. Of course the Chevy dealer said, "Don't believe ANYTHING you read on internet, we're the experts..." Uh-huh, yeah, right.

    If you still own a Colorado and take it to one of their dealers for this "nonexistant problem", just remember, the Colorado is "the gift that keeps on giving year after year"... to their service department.

    GM= :lemon:
  • Yep CHEVROLET the gift that KEEPS on giving!!... To the dealership, Oh yeah I almost forgot Randy Wise Chevrolet Milan Mi.The WORST dealer on the planet!!!
  • Keep in mind that in addition to the fuse problem, the drivers switch module can also be the other problem with the window/lock defect. Some people have replaced it and problem solved (about $175). I replaced a friend of mine module and silicone greased the connections to the module and it was fixed. Not everyone will have the fuse problem before mentioned. It is just two areas that are highly suspect when this occurs. Another Colorado I fixed just by siliconing the connections to the module and used it over again. I will guarantee that disconnecting the battery cables and etc. don't fix it, you just got lucky if it started working after that. A lot of people report the problem when the weather is cold, which backs up the connection problem as being a big issue.

    Gee, Randy Wise in Milan is only about 60 miles from me.
  • I have had to have the BCM replaced because the truck was stalling in the middle of the Freeway, In houston this is not a good thing. My Blower only works on High but on occasion will work on other speeds, tends to have a mind of its own. Also, the Drivers side Electric window also has a mind of its own. Now that the warranty is up, of course. The Dealer wants to charge me 98.00 just to look at it. When I told him of the previous BCM issue (under warranty) and now that the truck has 100,000 miles on it and clearly out of warranty, he told me that if it were the same issue, they would have to contact Chevy Corporate to get a decision rendered on if they would pay for it or not, or partially. I have heard alot of horror stories about this vehicle with related problems. It is sad that me being a chevy owner for over 35 yrs and me splurging for a non-base model for once, that I would get burned like this. I suppose my father may had some great wisdom by only buying and swearing by FORD. I suppose I should have listened. Does anyone have any ideas on what may be causing these two issues? BTW I just went to the dealer to have the brake lights fixed, a recall.. but it cost me 33.00. Intersting
  • Sorry to hear about your problems Mark. I don't know how much time you'd had to go through the 450+ posts here, but your truck has all the lemon symptoms, the driver's window, blower, BCM, tail lights. If you haven't experienced it yet, there are also huge problems with a fuse block, the engine head, instrument panel, door locks, blower resistor, dead battery, CD player that doesn't work.

    I've been following this thread since 2007 when I started having trouble with the fob/driver's window. There have been several good theories and it could be any one or a combination of issues. Bad grounds, bad fuse blocks, bad connectors, too small an alternator. The list goes on but none of the possible solutions are easy to implement or confirm.

    Your best bet is to get the truck running and sell the think as quickly as possible before the next $1000 dollar problem appears or is uncovered. I'm serious. I think the truck is a great concept, bought mine new, loved the thing up until the nightmares with the electrical system started. The Chevy dealer was less than useless, randomly replacing parts saying, "This time's the charm", while the dollars flew from my pocket into theirs. I got Chevy involved and they tried dodge the bullet by offering four oil changes and a tire rotation. Since they have become Obama Motors there's a couple of "Customer Care Representitives" lurking the forum that will try to get you to spend more dollars at a dealership, but other than that, Chevy probably just hopes the Colorados and Canyons end up in the junkyards as quickly as possible. Customer satisfaction, loyalty and quality obviously don't mean much when the worst that happens is you get an infusion of Obamadollars to keep on trucki'n.

    I finally gave up on my Colorado this summer. I traded it for a Toyota. I never, in a million years thought I would buy anything but American but Chevy deserves bankruptcy.

    Seriously, cut your losses and get out of the Colorado. Unless you have a really good mechanic that can troubleshoot these weird problems, or the time to tinker with inspecting every electrical connector and ground on the truck, the desire to replace the alternator with one that can handle the load, get a new battery about every 3 years, don't mind burning BCMs out, window modules etc... get out from under it while you can.

    GM= :lemon:
  • I have a 2008 Canyon crewcab, have 90,000 kms on it, have had a problem with the tail light which I fixed with some wd-40, other than that I must say I have had no problems with the truck, sorry guys! guess I got the good one! Love the truck! Hope I haven't jinxed myself...!
  • den052den052 Posts: 27
    edited September 2011
    sorry Mark 1962, but I would have never paid the $33 for the brake light problem as it is under recall. Regarding the Blower and drivers window, first the blower problem.

    1. Look under the dash on the passenger side by the blower motor you will see a connector with I believe 5 fairly heavy wires. If you unplug that, you will find some terminals that are dark and starting to burn. This is the blower issue problem. I removed the resistor assembly (2 screws), trimmed the plastic material from around the terminals and soldered wires to the terminals. I cut the plug on the vehicle side and spliced the wires together with good electrical butt connector splices. Problem was fixed permanently.

    2. The drivers window/door lock problem is a little more intense. Remove the drivers window/lock module and remove the plug in connections and use silicone grease (dielectric grease), available at a parts store on the connections. Reinstall and see if that fixes the problem. If problem does not re-occur it is fixed. If it does, using a wiring diagram, trace the circuit back to the door lock and window fuses. Check for voltage at the orange wire where it enters the drivers module for 12 volts while someone is operating the window or door locks. If no voltage, there is a problem between that and the connection that supplies power to the fuses. As a last resort, if no other problems are found, replace the drivers window/lock module (about $135-150). Give me a message with your email address, I can PDF the wiring diagrams to you.
    BTW, the engine stalling issue you mentioned was probably not with the BCM (or Body Control Module), it was with the ECM (or engine control module). They may have told you the wrong unit. The BCM does nothing but control body functions, (lighting, windows, radio, etc). The ECM has total control over the engine. Based upon my 35+ years as a mechanic, problems rarely are traced actually to the computers. It is usually a sensor or connection problem. Experts agree with the above statement, as many computers are replaced and sent back to the rebuild center that are found with nothing wrong with them. I recently repaired a transmission speed sensor problem by removing the computer plug and silicone greasing the connection. Had I replaced the computer, it probably would have cured the problem in the connection also, but silicone grease is $1.50 where a rebuilt computer is $200+, and they would have gotten a computer core that there was nothing wrong with it back at the rebuild center.
  • You ARE lucky you did get the good one. Had an 07 bought brand new nothing but an electronic NIGHTMARE!! Dealer was upset because I sent neg. feedback on G.M.workmanship questionaire. After 3 trips to fix same problem= 3 neg feedback,dealer told me "take your truck somewhere else we don't care about your problem/don't want your business." Told G.M... thier response was "what ya want us to do about it?"

    ANYONE with one of these trucks should "fix it & sell it." A.S.A.P.!!!

    Randy Wise Chevrolet Milan Mi. The worst dealer on the planet!!!
  • I recently had problems with my 2005 Colorado. I had a dead battery, malfunctioning driver window (other 3 work), door lock malfunction. I did a little research and came across this site. I thought I had an isolated electrical gremlin. Guess it turns out I'm just one of many with the same gremlin (or should I say monster). I managed to "fix" the problem by disconnecting the driver control module connections.

    This is just one of my many problems with my truck. Cyliner heads (fixed @ 8000 miles and the truck has not been the same since), parking and headlamps malfunctioning (bad connectors), misfire during rt. hand turns (Chevy couldn't figure that one out either. It still misses and is a hazard & liability), windows don't go down (then mysteriously work 2 minutes later), cruise control (didn't work for 1 day and then mysteriously started working), heavy carboning of the throttle body, and now my most recent problem. What's next???

    I still think its poor wiring and bad grounds (I get real bad static shock during the winter when I shut the doors. Don't know if that has any bearing on bad grounds.

    As long as I can remember, all of my immediate family members have driven GM vehicles. I am extremely displeased with my Colorado. It has been nothing but a headache. Don't get me wrong, I like my truck for a lot of reasons, not to mention it's a great looking truck. However, with all the enduring headaches, repeated trips to the dealer(with no results of course), and cash thrown into it, I may have no other choice but to dump it, along with my loyalty to GM products. I really don't want to do it, but after reading the previous 49 pages of gripes with nothing more than getting referred back to the dealer where they can blindly throw parts at it, it's a great possibility. I will continue to monitor this website. GM needs to solve this issue by the time I'm ready to sell and get someone on here other than a rep referring me to another dealer and inviting me to throw away more hard earned money or GM will lose more than just myself as an "unvalued" customer. I will make sure to spread the word that GM cannot be trusted as a reliable auto maker. Especially when my profession puts me in front of 125 to 150 youths a day, each year. That's a lot of potential GM buyers.

    Ok. I'm done ranting. If anyone has any info related to any of these problems, please reply (for the sake of all our sanity).
  • Other than the "recent" posts, there is nothing more to say. This thread addresses the "drivers window/lock and blower issues". I believe the last 2 pages outline what can be done. Other than that, the only thing I can help on is the wiring diagrams that are in PDF. I believe they are also located on this forum or in this thread. If not, contact me private message and I will send you the PDF's to your email address.
    You can also contact the representative from the factory that is mentioned throughout this thread and request an Incident number to get this resolved at a local dealership.
  • my colorado is having the window and lock problems now we cant figure them out. Now it is having the blower problems. what else can I expect?
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