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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems



  • Just wanted to thank you for the info, I was about wits end with this truck especially going through the trouble with the Passlock......Thanks
  • Regretfully an owner of a 2004 Colorado Z71 4x4 w/ 130K. Been a Chevy fan most of my life, but more based on the days before computers got involved. I'm currently dealing with the ABS and the power window control system problems. Unbelivable how many posts on both these issues and the countless numbers that aren't even aware of this web site. Christina, Sarah, "Peggy": with the large number of folks you have sent to the dealers and still no feedback on what these problems .....please ??? Evidently the problem is too big and too expensive for GM to recall. Too bad they won't admit that they have these problems because GM is losing more customers every day despite their great advertisements on that hypnotizing tube (I MUST HAVE A NEW CAMARO).

    I have worked on my cars all my life because I won't trust my vehicle repairs to anyone else. I know it's done right and I avoid new unrelated unexpected problems. I was fortunate to learn from my Dad who was once a GM mechanic. I have also worked many years on the electronic systems on military aircraft, so my insight on the electro-mechanical aspect has served me well. I think I can speak with some knowledge, so I would like to add my 2 cents on these issues.

    This vehicle is plagued with electrical problems. I have taken my door panel off three times to check the connections between the relays and the motor. Power (+12Vdc) is intermittent to the control unit. The switches that drive the relays have clean contacts and test good each time. If anyone has an electical diagram that shows power distribution to the door, it would be much appreciated. Currently, when I start the vehicle, the windows will go down once, up once, down again and then freeze, consistantly. If I didn't know better, I would try to tie this to a computer problem, but it makes no sense to tie them together. So, when I get a diagram, I'll isolate the bad wire/connector and post the location. (Peggy....don't hate me for this!) It worked on my wifes' 2004 Jeep. Someone posted the broken ground wire in the drivers door boot. As for the ABS, what a pain.

    The ABS intermittently lights, the brake pedal pulses, till I get over the 26 mph threshold, then annoying lights up the dash for the remainder of the drive into work. Checked the wire coming off the hubs and getting pulses from both front wheels. So I know that the mag sensors are working, which saves me $260 in replacement (Sorry Peggy.....don't curse me!). So my conclusion, based on some of the other posts, is that I have an intermittent electrical connection somewhere in the engine compartment. I'm thinkin the issues with the electrical block ( that won't be recalled) will be my starting point. When I get the electrical diagram, I'll find that sucker, and I'll post my findings and hopefully bring relief to all the people that can't / won't give their money to the GM Service Department.

    If anyone has a pdf of the electical system, I could certainly use it.

    A Note to Peggy: It amazes me that with all these posts that GM has not dedicated an engineer / tech to troubleshoot these problems and broadcasted the word out. My analysis: either 1) they don't care cuz they're makin big bucks off of many; 2) they're incompetent and can't figure out what the problem is; or 3) they have determined what the problem is and the cost to admit they need to recall exceeds what they're willing to spend. Either way're looking really bad here ! My Love for GM is gone (not that they care)!
  • "'re looking really bad here ! My Love for GM is gone (not that they care)! "

    Of course they don't care. The only person they need to impress now is Obama since he's the one keeping them in business, satisfied custoners are no longer important.

    I've followed this thread since 2007. The story is always the same, somebody finds this thread because of some weird electrical problem, (usually the door lock/fob/battery thing). If they go to the dealer, they replace X, Y or Z at random (BCM etc) with a variety of explanations, (can't run two windows at the same time, can't leave the keys in the ignition etc). And usually the thread poster returns with some other weird electrical problem sooner or later, (unless they sold their truck).

    I know the Colorado/Canyon were never really big sellers so you are probably right, it just isn't cost effective to GM to have a recall. Just piss off a "small number" of unsatisfied customers while making good profit off of their misfortune for buying your defective product in the first place.

    As far as "Peggy" goes, they claim to not be on commision. They claim to only moitor threads like this to "help customers and take back information to GM" or something, yet they can't get any kind of real GM tech to address this thread. All they do is "appologize for your frustration, give me your info so I can send you to a GM dealer!" If you want to take them up on the offer, good luck. If you aren't happy with all the money you spend, perhaps they will offer you a "jelly of the month club" prize like four oil changes and a tire rotation, "worth $450 dollars!". My suggestion, find a competent mechanic, work on it yourself, or cut your losses and sell the truck and buy something from a company where they work for the customer and not a presidential benefactor.
  • al6pndral6pndr Posts: 45
    I love this site! Snaproll1 if you ever come to michigan I wanna shake your hand! It's GRREAT to wake up on a snowy sat. morn. and open up this site w/such positive praise for" Peggy, NObama, and Govt.Motors! No truer words have been said!! GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!

    Randy Wise Chevrolet Milan Mi. THE WORST DEALER ON THE PLANET!!!
  • we have a 2005 canyon that has had numerous electrical problems. in reading the hundreds of other posts i now realize that we are not alone in these issues. we've had problems with the power door loks, the power windows, the dome light, the console lights and multiple trips to the dealership for recall repairs on the brake lights. now, our trun signals are clicking twice as fast as normal and the turn indicator lights on the front of the truck have stopped working. we dont want to get rid of the truck since it only has 70k miles and its in great shape mechanically, but these ongoing electrial problems have gotten ridiculous. any advice or help in these matters?
  • If you decide to work with a dealership, which I completely understand isn't an option or consideration, please let us know as we would like to be available to assist as best we can. Have you already had some of these concerns addressed by your dealership or independent shop before?

    GM Customer Service
  • colo04canyoncolo04canyon Posts: 8
    edited January 2012
    In reply to: "our turn signals are clicking twice as fast as normal and the turn indicator lights on the front of the truck have stopped working."

    Very simple, easy fix! :) ... You have burned out bulbs on the front turn signals ... just buy new ones at you local auto parts store and you should be GTG. I believe you need a 3157 bulb, but check that application chart/book at your parts store.

    You should check all your bulbs at least every few months. If you haven't replaced any other bulbs since 2005, you should check them all (brakes, headlights hi/lo, corner marker, reverse, license plate).
  • thanks for the help, but we've taken to the dealership repeatedly. as i said in the opriginal post, we've had the brake lights fizxed 3 times, as recently as a month ago, and the newly repaired brake lights just went out again. this truck has had electrical issues since we've owned, which is a real shame, because we love the truck in spite of all the trouble.
  • thanks for the advice, we'll try that
  • I understand. We're here if you should ever need anything!
    GM Customer Service
  • "I understand. We're here if you should ever need anything! GM Customer Service".

    Yeah, how about some real attention to the problems the Colorados and Canyons have, LIKE A FRICKING RECALL for the poor owners that trusted GM and haven't junked their trucks yet.

    But that isn't going to happen, is it? Doesn't fit with GM's motto, "Once you have their money, never give it back".

    For the post with the turn signal problem, yes, sounds like you have a burned out bulb and that should be a simple fix.

    On the brake lights, check the sockets. If I remember correctly, they have a ring of prongs around the light bulb, and eventually they take a set and contact get spotty. The way I noticed was taking the truck in for an oil change. They check the lights, and after the second time replacing the same tail light I took a closer look and discovered it was a contact issue.

    The way GM has washed their hands on the problems these trucks have is disgusting. They have earned the right to go bankrupt.
  • Does anyone here have a manual section or video how-to for replacing the 2004 Canyon cabin blower fan? And maybe a good source to purchase one, say online? The last two times have been done by a mechanic. This doesn't seem difficult, and I want to save money, so any help or resources appreciated. I see a number of discussions about this over at, but no how-to discussion. (note this is not for the resistor, I need part and info for the whole climate-control blower/fan)
  • My understanding is it is pretty easy to replace the blower motor. I'm just going by what someone told me in passing conversation, never checked it out.... but it should be on the firewall in the engine compartment roughly near the center of the firewall. It's something like four bolts and a couple of electrical connectors, pretty easy. I only had mine replaced twice, both times by the dealership, once under warranty and the other time when I still had faith that they actually knew what they were doing. They charged something like $175 but were done in like 10 minutes, that's why I asked about how 'hard' it was to do.

    The other thing to check is the blower resistor. This is located under the dash about mid way between the two seats. There have been some posts about the connector burning and taking the blower with it. Possibly you may want to check on that thing too, solder it in place of the connector I thing was the suggestion.

    As far as parts, I would think the blower would be available at something like a NAPA or Bumper to Bumper parts place. With as often as this stuff fries, I'll bet they can't keep them in stock...

    Remember, the Colorado and Canyon... the gift that keeps on giving... to GM service departments.
  • I took my blower out to clean a piece of leaf that was making a noise in it about 2 years ago. I also fiund out why none of the slower speeds worked. The fan/motor unit is under the dash behind the glovebox but you can take it out without removing the glovebox. Get some good lighting and a 1/4 inch drive flex extension on a nut driver and put something comfy on the passengerside floor. if memory serves me right, there are 4 5/16 screws holding it up. one is a real pain to get at but not impossible, so bring some patience with you :) I'm pretty sure I removed it without removing the glovebox but I did pull up the lower door jamb panel and removed the side kick panel to squeeze it out. Right next to the fan is a 4 wire connector this powers the speeds by sending current through the resistor. On mine the number 3 wire was corroded and slightly burnt from using the fan on #3 speed a lot (draws the most current). I cleaned up and reshaped the contact and put some Never-Seez on the contacts (for better conductivity) and snapped the connector back together and the fan has been working fine since (knock on wood). Took me about 2 hours on a nice day. If it fails again I will replace the connector. Good luck!
  • den052den052 Posts: 27
    edited January 2012
    Ya, Bitsmasher has it down pat! It is directly under the glovebox by the passenger feet area. Most of the problems with the blower motor is that it only works on HIGH or is intermittent with the other speeds. It is simple to remove and bench test if neccessary. On the bench, just hook up a 12 volt battery + to the plug and ground to the motor. It should run on high. The blower resistor problem is the 4 terminal contacts develop "oxidation". This is similar to corrosion but a little different. Oxidation develops > heat in the connection and heat > develops more oxidation. Eventually the connection burns and opens up as a break. My fix was to remove the resistor. Take note of the colors of wires and what terminal they go on. Cut all plastic away from the terminals using a hot knife warmed by a stove or torch, as they are recessed. Clean the terminals bright and shiny with sandpaper. Solder new wire to the terminals, leaving about 4 inches to splice. Cut the plug off the wire harness. Strip the wires and reconnect to the appropriate wire soldered to the corresponding terminals.
    The repair pretty much is permanent and costs less than 10 dollars if you know how to solder. The other repair is to replaced the resistor assembly and the mating plug using wire butt splices (not scotch squeeze connectors). I am guessing this repair would run about $50. Use DI-electric grease (usually silicone grease), so the connections don't oxide again. :)
  • Thanks for the kind words, Den. I am attaching a youtube video of a guy replacing the cable and resistor on an '07 Colorado that someone may find useful:

    He did neglect to grease the contacts with silicone before assembling though, so he may get more practice in a year or two :)
  • den052den052 Posts: 27
    Good video. I posted the same comments on silicone and possible solder cure on the comments for the video in case some people don't see it here.
    Thanks again, Dennis
  • My first post was on dec 4th.Just over a month ago.I had the drivers side window,pdl,remote problem.Fixed it by just disconnecting the battery,blah blah blah.You can read my posts starting on Dec 4th.Since then, everything has been great!!!!.....................Until yesterday

    Wait til you here this story,I think its a new one.

    Drove to work yesterday,parked my truck,got out,remotely locked it and went in to work. 8 hours later,time to go home..........or not....... Got in my truck and turned the key.Nothing. Dash lights all came on but wouldnt crank over. Thought "[non-permissible content removed], my battery is dead". Quickly waved at co-worker to give me a jump.Its raining pretty good out too. He pulls his truck over,i get out and open the hood. As im waving him closer so we can jump it, I hear a "click,click" from somewhere in the motor compartment. I think"WTF was that?". (keep in mind the keys are in my hand).Buddy gets out, pops his hood and hooks up the jumper cables to his battery.(i know you should hook up the dead battery first,but it was raining and i didnt give a [non-permissible content removed]).He has the 2 cable clamps in his hands and proceeds to move towards my battery.I started to walk around my truck to get ready to get in and start it once he put the cables on. Before i got around the other side of the truck i hear"RRRRRRRRRR","RRRRRR".RRRRR. You know what that noise was? The fkn truck was cranking over!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I didnt even have the fkn key in the fkn ignition!!!!!!!!!!! I thought "WTF IS GOING ON"!!!!!????? (Can you tell I'm pissed?)As soon as he touched the jumper cables to the battery terminals, the fkn truck started cranking over!!!! We were both dumbfounded!!! I jumped in the truck with it still trying to start by itself and put the key in and turned the key to the on position and the cranking stopped! Turned the key more to try and start it and nothing!! Turned the key back to off and it starts cranking again. On, the cranking stops. Off the cranking starts. Disconnected the cables, disconnected the battery and sat there.I sent buddy home and told him i was gonna call my wife.The reason the battery was almost dead was because there was a short somewhere and the fkn truck was trying to start all day by itself with no one around it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Ironically I was working at the GM distribution warehouse in Woodstock Ontario.Went inside and found a forklift mechanic who knows a hell of alot about electrical systems in trucks and cars.He figured one of my relays in my fuse box was shorting out.We removed the fuse block cover and took an air compressor and blew air all around the fuses and relays thinking there was probably moisture in there.Tried jumping again.Same [non-permissible content removed]. Grabbed a heat gun and tried drying out the fuse block. Still nothing.Wife showed up.Removed battery, took it home and charged it overnight hoping the fuse block would dry out and maybe the computer would reset...whatever. Today, hooked up battery. Same [non-permissible content removed]!! "RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!" Great!!!! Time to call for a tow to the dealer.

    Dealer calls me later,says that the wiring and terminals under the fuse block are all corroded. They can only get 30% of the diagnostics to come up with the fuse block all corroded to [non-permissible content removed]. So they are going to have to put a new fuse block in for $500 plus labour i think, before they can begin to see what is wrong.Great!!!!A new fuse block on a 4year old vehicle? I also told them to check my evap cannister valve thingy that is stuck closed and takes me almost 20 minutes to fill up with gas.....Probably $400 for that.I dunno. I figure this is gonna be one huge bill.At least between $1500 and $2000 (or more) for a truck I bought used 1 and a half years ago for $13000, plus tax, over $15000. The most ive ever spent on a vehicle.

    Buddy at GM told me to call customer complaints at the 1-800 # and raise hell there. He said they might do something for me.He said it doesnt hurt to try. I doubt that this would be covered if it was still under warranty,but of course the warranty ran out in September. If they dont help me out with this extra large bill, the truck will be going up for sale immediately, and i will never buy another GM product ever again!!!

    Will keep everyone posted!!! What do you think of this story Snaproll? Fkn awesome eh?
  • Oh my. You have definitely won the award for the weirdest Colorado story. My heart goes out to you. Been there, done tha,t got the tee-shirt, (that says, "You're over the GM barrel, bend over and remove your wallet").

    "Buddy at GM told me to call customer complaints at the 1-800 # and raise hell there. He said they might do something for me.He said it doesnt hurt to try."

    It sure doesn't hurt to try. You may end up with 'the customer care package' which amounts to four oil changes and a tire rotation "worth $450 dollars!". It's more like $50 bucks worth of oil to them to balance the thousands you're going to spend the longer you own this truck.

    Of course the vultures that prowl this forum trying to get the happless to the nearest dealer will probably show up sooner or later and "apologize for your frustration". They'll probably be bummed that you went to the dealer on your own rather than allowing them to 'help you'.

    As far as the fuse block... Mine needed to be replaced. It was shorted and burned. Obviously if it was burned and had scorchmarks after only 2 years, there is obviouly a serious problem with them. I can't imagine ANY manufacturer actually charging for something that they had a service bulletin on to replace. Don't let these guys scam you.

    "If they dont help me out with this extra large bill, the truck will be going up for sale immediately, and i will never buy another GM product ever again!!!"

    After 6 years of these endless problems with the Colorado, they obviously don't give a #&$^. Why should they? They don't have to satisfy customers, all they have to do is make contributions to Obama's campaign fund.

    GM's attitude towards customers is absolutely inexcusable and disgusting.

    I really feel bad for ya. Dump the truck ASAP and buy something from a car company that cares about customer satisfaction and support. That ain' GM.

    GM= :lemon:
  • al6pndral6pndr Posts: 45
    edited January 2012
    shyster66. Listen to snaproll1 GET RID of the P.O.S.!!! G.M. knows there is a problem w/this truck they just DON'T care!! I was the proud owner of an 07 also, purchased new mine was a stripped down model no eletric anything in it. But anythig that took eletricity acted up (gremlins?)

    I was a 28yr. chevy cust. I called cust. serv. and was told "Theres nothing we can do." This after I was at my dealer 3 times for the same problem, 3 times I got one of those G.M. questioniares about "how are we doing?" and I gave them what I thought was an honest opinion. then on the 4th time I called I was told "Sir we don't care about your problem,we just got our 3rd neg. feedback from G.M. because of YOU. Take you truck some wheres else."

    Soooo you know how I feel about G.M. and there cust.serv./dealers..

    Randy Wise Chevrolet Milan Mi. THE WORST DEALER on THE PLANET!!!
  • gabe15gabe15 Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    Mike, I had the same exact problem. Try disconnecting the Positive battery cable + ONLY..wait 15 minutes then put key in ingnition and turn it on all the way "like you're starting the vehicle" turn it off and remove key. Re-attach the battery cable. Hope it works for you!
  • Ummmm.....You are replying to a post that was made in 2007?
  • den052den052 Posts: 27
    Hey mikeof48, that is the same basic problem that is on this thread of 600+ pages. I fixed mine by disconnecting the drivers window/lock module and applying dielectric grease to the connections like someone who replied to your thread did. It fixed mine. I noticed in the reply that the mechanic said the clips holding the plug don't hold it secure to the module with slamming the door and etc. This makes sense as in cold weather, the clips become hard and not flexible which would aggravate the problem I think. As far as GM helping to fix the problem, you might as well forget it as the 600+ pages testifies to.
    If you can't deal with it, sell the truck. So far mine has been fine since.

    Dennis Tomlinson (master mechanic light and heavy duty with emphasis on electrical troubleshooting).
  • Ummmm.....You are replying to a post that was made in 2007?
  • snaproll1snaproll1 Posts: 88
    edited January 2012
    "I fixed mine by disconnecting the drivers window/lock module..."

    Yes, it fixed the issue for me, for a while...

    Back then this thread had about 50 posts on it and one of them suggested disconnecting the module. I did it and it worked... for a few days at a time. The problem would reoccur, dead battery, driver's window and fob not working.

    Eventually I took it to a dealer and that's when the nightmares began. First they told me, "NEVER, EVER believe ANYTHING you read on the internet".

    Uh-huh. Then why did disconnecting the module actually work?

    "The door module has absolutely NOTHING to do with the problem. The problem is your $400 dollar BCM that needs to be replaced".

    ... And if I replace it, this will take care of the problem with the window and fob?

    "Absolutely! You can count on us, we're the experts!"

    Two days later when the SAME battery/fob/window thing happened AGAIN...

    "Er-ah, yeah, well see, aahhh, the BCM was bad anyway! See, it just happened to be bad, and even though it didn't cause the window problem -"

    Put the old one back in.

    "Oh no, we can't do that. Ummm, seee, aaaah, the BCM controls everything like the airbags, so since it was bad, you are just so lucky we caught that, cuz if we didn't you would probably have died, so we just can't put it back in..."

    Ahhh, yah. So fix the fricking problem I brought it in for, the window/fob thing...

    "Um-yeah, well... get your wallet out. Instead, let's replace the battery... then the fuse block... then test it until we blow the resistor and you pay for that too..."

    I'm not real happy with this $800 dollar bill. Is there anyone I can call?

    "Ah-lo dis Peggy, I apologize for your frustration. No-no money back. Instead we give coupons.... wheech can be converted to tokens... to be used as credits... You get four oil changes and a tire rotation worth $450 dollars!"

    I much would have prefered enrollment in a "jelly of the month club" plan instead of seeing the inside of another GM dealership.

    Two years later when the same window/fob/battery problem occured, I took it to a competent (non-dealer) shop. They actually did some troubleshooting and testing rather than only reading codes and replacing expensive parts at a whim, and you know what??? That window module that the dealership said had absolutely no connection with the window not working right in the first place seemed to have a power-out issue. Imagine that. So after shelling out another $300 for a part on the truck that would never fail on any other vehicle I never had the issue again. Well, since that was one of the last straws with the Colorado and I sold it shortly afterwards I didn't give it enough time to fry for a third time.

    Perhaps now there may be window modules available in junk yards, but I'd be really scared replacing something on a Colorado or Canyon with used electrical parts. The electrical systems on these vehicles have so many problems, no telling if what you are replacing is fried as well.

    GM= :lemon:
  • Den doesnt believe that disconnecting the battery will work. It definitely worked for me. I didnt get lucky.Well I might have,but thats all I did.The truck didnt move at all while i was trying to figure it out. I didnt jiggle any wires. i didnt slam the door.I disconnected the battery for 6 hrs, then put the key in and turned it on then connected the battery again and poof! It worked. And as above, why are people replying to a march 07 post? Are they fking retarded?
  • den052den052 Posts: 27
    Disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it may work as I believe you just get lucky. I don't think it is a repair or a fix. Sometimes just ignoring the door lock/ window problem repairs itself temporarily by itself. Mine just started working one time by just waiting a month or so. So far, the silicone grease has done the job and it hasen't happened again and this is going on 2 years so I am holding my fingers crossed. I do believe it is an electrical connection or supply problem and NOT the BODY COMPUTER. Any good GM tech mechanic could hook up a TECH2 troubleshooter and know that just by examining the body computer and the diagnostics with the TECH2 program.
  • den052den052 Posts: 27
    BTW, I just got emailed about the recent post, so it seemed to me to be NEW? If it is an old post, why did I get an email about a new one?
    Guess there are so many pages now that the Edmunds computer must be screwing up and sending email notifications out on old messages, I don't know????
  • Did you find a resolution for this problem? For me the alarm locks quit working, driver lock and window. Sometimes I have to touch other metal objects to discharge before touching my truck at all. It's been 2 weeks and it won't reset, longest it's ever been without resetting, whats the solution? Thanks.
  • I've been reading all these posts about the electrical problems with the Colorado and I find them extremely troubling! I'm just wondering if anyone's had the same problem as me, and if they've managed to fix it. . . . I have a 2005 Colorado and for the last couple of months the truck's been telling me the doors are open. . .when in fact they are not! But before the door light comes up on the dash. . .the truck makes a very annoying warning beep. . . and the power locks will lock and unlock. . . it has become constant and it is very frustrating. I brought the truck to the dealership and asked them to reset the BCM. . . they did not! They said they had to run the diagnostic test - which came back with no codes. . .I was told there was a seatbelt in the door which could possibly have created a big enough space to cause the door to be open!!! If only it were that simple. . .and me that stupid!!! After checking the invoice later, I saw that they had not reset the BCM, but they had put the power lock fuse back in to add to the noise with the beeping from the doors that were still "apparently" open. When I called back inquiring as to why they had not reset the BCM, I was told that in order for them to 're-program' the BCM with these codes stating there was nothing wrong with the truck, they would need at least one hour and it would cost about 160 dollars. There has got to be an easier way to stop the beeping?!!?!!
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